N2BRK 0 Posted July 17, 2013 Hi all - I found a place selling new neutered WASR 10's (I'll have to call and see if they are WASR10 or 10-63) for $599 and the Saiga 7.62 for $550 at another place. As a wildcard at the same price is a 10-63 used that I'd need to make compliant first. I've been reading and asking friends about which way to go, but I get a 50/50 split with bias towards whichever they own, lol. I figured I'll poll you guys for some feedback Thanks in advance! Wally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blake 50 Posted July 17, 2013 IMO depends on if the Saiga is converted or not. If it's unconverted I would say go WASR, if converted I would say go Saiga. If you go the WASR route just make sure you check it out first to make sure the front sight isn't canted. A lot of them had that issue. I believe unconverted Saiga's were around $400 pre Newtown. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 17, 2013 sorry, yes unconverted on the saiga. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iCARRY 0 Posted July 17, 2013 Get the WASR and have fun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueLineFish 615 Posted July 17, 2013 Why choose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 17, 2013 ^like the way the man thinks, lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blake 50 Posted July 17, 2013 ^like the way the man thinks, lol I would love to think like BLF, but if I did I would be broke forever. I believe he is of the "own at least one of every firearm ever made" philosophy lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vini 0 Posted July 17, 2013 I would go Saiga and do rear conversion only. It's new Russian gun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vladtepes 1,060 Posted July 17, 2013 I would go Saiga and do rear conversion only. It's new Russian gun. I agree.. I have never had an issue with my Saigas.. all great guns.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueLineFish 615 Posted July 17, 2013 I would love to think like BLF, but if I did I would be broke forever. I believe he is of the "own at least one of every firearm ever made" philosophy lol. If I could I would. I also agree with the saiga. Buy it and make it into whatever you want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jds560 0 Posted July 18, 2013 The problem is finding a Saiga. They're outrageously priced at the moment or out of stock. I went SAR-2 which is supposed to be one of the best. and had it shipped to GS Hunters. They're saying it's substantially identical and it'll need modifications! Hope to clear it all up tomorrow because it's certainly NJ compliant in it's current state (except the mags!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 18, 2013 that sucks I'm still waiting to see about making a deal with a member here, but Cheyenne Outfitters said they have the Saiga for $550. I ASSume that's compliant and good to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vladtepes 1,060 Posted July 18, 2013 factory out of box configuration for saiga is awful at best.. but once converted they are good to go.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 18, 2013 I'm waiting to talk to tuktuk today. I'm pretty sure we are going to make a deal on his wasr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted July 18, 2013 I am picking up a new saiga tomorrow for 475. I'll let you know tomorrow if they have any left if intrested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vini 0 Posted July 19, 2013 I am picking up a new saiga tomorrow for 475. I'll let you know tomorrow if they have any left if intrested. Any 5.45 in stock by any chance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted July 19, 2013 Any 5.45 in stock by any chance?No 5.45 x39 and the 7.62x39's are gone. I got the last one. Sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 19, 2013 My buddy came up from Buena and we left Cherry Hill... we got to exit 7 on the TPK and then got a call Miscommunication, can't meet in Woodbridge today :jaw drops. So, next week on the WASR! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 25, 2013 I got the WASR 10/63 yesterday; thanks, Mo. I spent two hours cleaning her and then reassembled her with the original furniture. After some crimping, I got the gas tube to stop wobbling like hell, lol. The trigger is just better than any AK variant that I've shot; I am very impressed. Once I make some decisions from the extra furniture that came with it, I'll have some parts to sell off. The first to go for sure though is that Russian hammer/sickle buttstock flag... sorry Mo but my old man would smack me if I didn't take it off, lol. I am trying to get a few things done this morning so I can go shoot her this afternoon :excited! Thanks for all of the input, and I'm glad to have met Mo and take his baby, lol. Wally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 26, 2013 she shot well. The action is a bit rough, so I spent some time this morning with a stone and some 1000grit paper. Ahh, much better now... cycle with a pinky finger. A hair stiff when it pushes down the hammer, but feels normal and worlds better. We'll see how she is when hot - that's when it was particularly rough yesterday. Speaking of hot... the forend is hot (as expected). My buddy suggested the true Russian wood up there, citing it's thicker. I'd like to keep the wood theme going, so I'm thinking I'll go for it - any thoughts or suggestions on that? Thanks in advance, Wally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fatty 241 Posted July 26, 2013 What areas did you hit to smooth out the action? Ive noticed on my wasr that the first 3" or so are smooth but then gets rough as the bolt gets closer to the hammer. I wanted to smooth this out but didn't know what spots to get to. Most of the contact points are pretty rough but still very reliable it seems after firing a couple hundred rounds. Did you smooth out the hammer to prevent unintentional bolt hold-open? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 26, 2013 A lot! I like to clean the gun and then look for the "shiny spots" showing where parts are touching, and I also examine and feel things that slide like the rails and the grooves in the bolt. The rails in the receiver were awful; tooling marks were like a cheese grater. I stoned them and then slicked them with some 1000grit paper. I slicked the top of the hammer (yes an awful spot to cross when cycling the bolt with your hand). I also found a couple areas where there was a little dent that rolled a tiny piece of metal creating a lip. Those areas were certainly reducing sliding clearance and making it hang up, so I broke them off with a stone and then slicked em up with the paper too. The bolt and carrier itself had several spots that were rough, as well as a couple more "smooshed" spots making those lips that I described before. The front of the carrier up just back from where the piston attaches was terribly pitted and had grooves and nicks in it. The carrier and bolt got treated to a slick up of the grooves where the receiver rails slide - I take and double up 1000grit around a zip tie for the shape and something to hold, and then run it through until shiny/slick. The bottom of the bolt where it rides over the hammer was grainy and tool marked badly, and the "ramps" on it were also friction points that needed a lot of sanding. You can feel the difference if you do this incrementally and feel the bolt sliding over as you work on it - as you get one side of the ramp slicked it really screams how badly the other ramp is, and you can feel where a hold-open would happen if it did. So you smooth that side out too and then she's good in both directions. The backbone of the hammer that has the bolt slide over and push it down to reset it was very rough. The metal is pocked and it was a huge source of friction. It got slicked up and was a huge help. The last spot that I found a problem was in the dust cover. It had a flat spot with a lip and seemed to be touching the bolt as it went past. I got that squared away too. I haven't shot it to see if I'm done, but just hand cycling makes you all giddy when you compare how it was before you started. I hope this helps some Wally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tuktuk 16 Posted July 27, 2013 hey hey !!! as per soviet infantry manual this rifle was cleaner than when it came out of the factory !!' yea I kinda figured u gonna sell the metal one; it's not practical, heavy and the only reason I had it on ... was to piss ppl off damn I didn't even realize there were all those spots u described. the day I bought it , took it to the Russian gunsmith told him to fix wtvr was wrong with it but not to spent a lot of my money and to think I was actually getting decent groups at 100 yards. I guess I got used to firing AKs I know u know but just in case>> if u gonna be replacing with Russian red make sure it's USA made for that whole 922a crap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 27, 2013 I just planned on trying my hand at sanding and staining the wood furniture you provided, but thanks for the heads-up I have one other question I'll PM you - thanks! Wally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 27, 2013 oh and for accuracy, it seemed a to shoot a bit low at 50yds but once I found the point of impact I was banging away and happy as a clam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pew Pew Plates 358 Posted July 29, 2013 Just lower the front sight post Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N2BRK 0 Posted July 29, 2013 Will do; thanks. I also snatched up a C-More sight from craigslist. I'm going to throw that on and see how I like it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites