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What is the proper way to install a castle nut

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Opps, thought you said Pork or Steak...

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If your like many folks.. Your going to likely change socks like you change underwear.... So why locate or stake... Once torqued?

That being said the proper way is to torque and stake...

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If your like many folks.. Your going to likely change socks like you change underwear.... So why locate or stake... Once torqued?

 

That being said the proper way is to torque and stake...

 

I agree. Do not use Locktite or stake it. I've hand torqued the castle nut on all of my AR's and they have not come loose yet. And even if they do, I carry a small wrench in my bag anyway so I can always re-tighten it.

 

http://www.kdeguns.com/ar-manual/M4%2016%2023Pchange8.pdf

 

If you absolutely HAVE to torque it, it's between 35 to 39 ft-lb. Look in page 0025-7.

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one of the links said inch pounds.I just ordered a multi tool.My first  stock wench had no torque slot. I also orderd vised blocks for the upper and lower now i have get a vise. This is my first time building a lower.I am pretty much done just got to lock the caste nut down ptu stock on and wait for my stag arms complete upper to arrive.I am not ready to tackle the upper build yet

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Question:  How do you determine torque with a typical castle nut wrench?   Is it possible to add a torque wrench?

If you stake, how do you unstake?  My concern would be if I want to replace something down the road.

 

Also, The in-lbs vs ft-lbs debate seems to be all over the internet and there isn't a clear consensus what the right answer is.

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What's the worst that happens if it gets loose? We do not shoot full auto. If it gets loose you would feel you lower slosh around a little right? Its not like the spring could immediately fall out right? It would need a couple of turns

 

I'm just asking for the "importance" of the torque

 

Yes, I get it, it's a deadly weapon need to be careful. Just asking

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You should stake the receiver extension nut in 2 places after being appropriately torqued. It is easy to do and just as easy to undo, but provides security that the rifle will continue to run, even after mortaring or banging the stock on something, not to mention the constant vibration from firing can work it loose enough to be a headache. This is especially important if attaching a sling - either a simgle point or 2 point sling - to your rifle by using the receiver end plate is: Magpul ASAP or a bolt on over the receiver extension nut like the Tangodown PR4.

 

In addition to the takedown pin spring - which will fly out with less than an 1/8" of movement of the receiver end plate - the buffer retaining pin is also only held in by 1/4 turn, or less, of the receiver extension. If the receiver extension nut gets loose and the receiver extension backs out 1/4-1/8 turn, not only will you launch the takedown pin spring, but you could release the buffer retaining pin into the guts of your carbine. If that happens your rifle is going down hard.

 

You can easily stake a receiver extension nut with a spring loaded centerpunch in a pinch. You can also break open a staked receiver extension nut with nothing but the right wrench and a sturdy friend. I did work on 3 Colt factory staked receiver extensions - installing Magpul ASAP plates - last week with nothing but a Multitasker Multitool with a receiver extension nut wrench and a co-worker. Easy day.

 

You just shouldn't use the receiver end plate a second time if it has been staked.

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The receiver end plate holds a spring, the spring puts pressure on a detent that captuers the rear takedown pin in place and holds it closed so it doesn't "un-pin" itself without a deliberate push.

 

If you lose that detent or spring, it can be an inconvenience, but not a showstopper.

 

Of greater importance, is the buffer retaining pin that is located at the 6 o'clock position where the receiver extension threads into the lower receiver. This pin is held in place by the receiver extension itself and is captured in its location by the very end of the receiver extension on it's last 1/4-1/8 turn as you install it. If the receiver extension nut gets loose enough that the receiver extension itself can turn 1/8 to 1/4 revolution counterclockwise, it will release the buffer retaining pin. If that pin gets loose and into the guts of your rifle it will need Armorer level service to get it back up and running.

 

I know that's a lot of "if's" - but they are "ifs" that are avoided by the easily reversible and simple procedure of properly staking the receiver end plate to the receiver extension nut.

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Step One: 

First, you should slide the bolt through the installation material and screw the castle nut onto the other side. Use a pencil to mark the area where you need the hole to be. After that, remove the nut and bolt and place the bolt into a vice.

Step Two:

Screw the nut back onto the bolt and align it with the mark you made earlier. This will be your drilling point Make sure you drill upright to the hole so that it comes out in between the peaks on the other side as well.

Step Three:

After you have drilled your hole, remove from the vice and place it back into your installed material. Take a pair of pliers and bend the cotter pin away from the center on each side. This will create a locking mechanism and the pin will not be able to fall out.

  • Disagree 2

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I had to use loctite on a castle nut where their was no base plate for the extension tube. It was the qcb pistol brace from sbtactical. When they changed how to measure an "other" i had to take it off. I boogered it up pretty bad since the castle nut part is aluminum, I had to buy a castle nut specific tool, my armors wrench was useless, and even still needed to extend the wrench with a pipe for leverage. 

So loctite is in fact an alternative in my mind now. For reference I never over tighten anything. Especially aluminum 

But i do stake when the opportunity is there 

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