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The Generator Thread

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23 minutes ago, siderman said:

What's the dif between the Snorkel and a regular kit? 

With the snorkel it only moves the carb filter out about 3/16". The regular kit has a spacer about an inch thick so some gensets need to have the frame modified to fit the filter housing. Both seem to work the same but the snorkel is more user friendly. 

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1 hour ago, SmittyMHS said:

With the snorkel it only moves the carb filter out about 3/16". The regular kit has a spacer about an inch thick so some gensets need to have the frame modified to fit the filter housing. Both seem to work the same but the snorkel is more user friendly. 

Ok thanx. I put on the kit back before the Snorkel came out was just curious.

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On 9/15/2020 at 10:35 AM, SmittyMHS said:

Just wondering what drew you to the Hutch Mountain kit rather then the U.S. Carb. I ordered their kit and had it in less then a week.

Firstly,  I found the US Carburetor website confusing but from what I could discern, the USG kit involves removing and modifying the gen's carburetor.  In contrast the Hutch kit seems to be a much cleaner install that requires very minimal changes to the genny.  If you watch their video I linked above, you will see that it is very easy to switch back and forth between propane and gasoline.  Lastly, and a big consideration for me, is that on the gen itself, the Hutch kit provides a quick disconnect port and the propane regulator attaches to the propane tank.  I.e. I don't have to mount the propane regulator to the outside housing of my genny.   It would get knocked into all the time in my garage (likely by my knees, lol).   My understanding (if correct) is that the USG kit would require the regulator assembly to be mounted to the generator housing.  So overall struct me as a much cleaner design that would also enable me to switch seemlessly between propane and gasoline as the situation might call for. 

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I have yet to actually use my US carb kit, but I'd did install it. No modifications per say l just had to remove the air filter, since the snorkel fits between it and the carb. Mounted/zip tied the regulator where it was actually contained within the chasis right under the air box.

 

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3 hours ago, JackDaWack said:

I have yet to actually use my US carb kit, but I'd did install it. No modifications per say l just had to remove the air filter, since the snorkel fits between it and the carb. Mounted/zip tied the regulator where it was actually contained within the chasis right under the air box.

 

You should test it before you need it. You have to tweak it a bit to get it to start and run at the proper RPM.

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1 hour ago, SmittyMHS said:

You should test it before you need it. You have to tweak it a bit to get it to start and run at the proper RPM.

I bought it when I had a house with NG... im out in the sticks now. I wanna get a few big propane tanks 

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On 6/4/2020 at 1:37 PM, SmittyMHS said:

One other thing...Consider converting to NG if you have it available. Even LP is good. You can get 100lb tanks and store them near forever unlike gasoline.  Very simple to do. https://www.motorsnorkel.com/

My friend owns a propane company.  His generator that he just finished putting in- the following week we got that Isaias storm, and his generator ran for over 60 hours.  He said switching it from propane to NG is just the flip of a switch.  I'll probably get one soon, as I'm on NG, but having the ability to have him bring a propane tank and switch over in case of NG shutdown(I'm very close to the coast) is a huge plus.  

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Yesterday I installed the Hutch Mountain propane kit on my Honda EU3000is.   Was a relatively straight forward install.   Took me a few hours, mainly because I did not have a 11/16" drill bit on hand for the hole through which the quick disconnect fitting goes.  Ended up drilling a 1/2" hole and enlarging it with my Dremel tool.   Also tightening the QD fitting onto the fitting sticking out the hole took quite a few hard turns of the wrench to fully tighten it.  Was afraid I would break the brass fitting or threads.  However was able to fully tighten it without a problem.  The "business end" plate goes between the air filter housing and carburator.  That part was easy. Also installed a new spark plug gapped to 0.022" per the instructions(still seems to run ok on gas with the smaller gap as compared to the usual 0.028-0.032 gap.)

Once installed, I was able to seemlessly switch between gasoline and propane.  Ran the generator for about an hour on propane.  Ran fine in both normal and Eco mode.    Note that per the instructions, you must have the gen housing closed. (Ie close the access panel that you had open to do the installation.)   Otherwise, it runs like crap especially in Eco mode. 

Bottomline, I am thrilled to now be able to use propane as my primary fuel for the genny; while retaining the option of using gasoline when required.   Easier and safer to store and handle the propane.  Purchased three 30lb propane tanks at Tractor Supply.  So will have at least 90 lbs of propane on hand for any power emergencies.

 

 

 

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No down side to LP/NG imo. First time I didn't have to go outside in the pouring rain to add gas to the gen. was all worth it to me. LP of course is a bit different but the tank swap is pretty quick compared to opening up the generators tank and trying to add gas in the dead of night. Note here...Top off your tank before the sun goes down. Even if it means getting soaked. Most people (at least us) did turn off the gen before we went to bed. You can top it off in the morning. Also don't ever let it run out of fuel. The power surges will reek havoc on both your genset and everything it's trying to keep running. 

Speaking of rain...I bought one of these to keep mine relatively dry in the rain. Pretty nice cover if you don't have someplace to put your genset while it's raining. If anyone decides to get one hit me up for some assembly tips.

https://smile.amazon.com/IGAN-Generator-All-Weather-3500w-12000w-generators/dp/B0817GWV8C/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1OQCXMT3ZVMDJ&dchild=1&keywords=generator+cover&qid=1601236357&sprefix=generator%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-5

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16 hours ago, SmittyMHS said:

No down side to LP/NG imo. First time I didn't have to go outside in the pouring rain to add gas to the gen. was all worth it to me. LP of course is a bit different but the tank swap is pretty quick compared to opening up the generators tank and trying to add gas in the dead of night. Note here...Top off your tank before the sun goes down. Even if it means getting soaked. Most people (at least us) did turn off the gen before we went to bed. You can top it off in the morning. Also don't ever let it run out of fuel. The power surges will reek havoc on both your genset and everything it's trying to keep running. 

Speaking of rain...I bought one of these to keep mine relatively dry in the rain. Pretty nice cover if you don't have someplace to put your genset while it's raining. If anyone decides to get one hit me up for some assembly tips.

https://smile.amazon.com/IGAN-Generator-All-Weather-3500w-12000w-generators/dp/B0817GWV8C/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1OQCXMT3ZVMDJ&dchild=1&keywords=generator+cover&qid=1601236357&sprefix=generator%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-5

Good point about not letting it run dry.  I read a post on a generator thread several years ago in which someone stated that letting a generator run dry while there is a load on it risks damaging the engine(cracked cylinder head). So best to plan when you are going to shut it down for refueling and not allow it to run dry on it’s own.

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10 minutes ago, oldguysrule649 said:

Good point about not letting it run dry.  I read a post on a generator thread several years ago in which someone stated that letting a generator run dry while there is a load on it risks damaging the engine(cracked cylinder head). So best to plan when you are going to shut it down for refueling and not allow it to run dry on it’s own.

I hadn't heard that; perhaps it's another reason not to let the generator run dry under load.   It's certainly hard on the load when the generator starts surging just before it runs out of gas--the voltage fluctuations can be significant.

The cover linked above looks convenient.  When mine is out of the garage and in use, I have a half-sheet of exterior plywood that I put on top and bungee down to keep the rain off.  With all sides open, it dissipates heat well.  I have two notched 2x4's on the bottom of the plywood that fit onto the generator top rails to keep it from sliding around, and the notches on one side are shallower, so the plywood sits at a slight angle, to allow rain to run off.

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21 minutes ago, ChrisJM981 said:

My wife stated she wants a nat gas standby generator. Does anyone know of an honest review site to compare different models? 

Match.com? 

Oh, perhaps you meant to compare different models of generators.  Consumer reports has their reviews behind a paywall, and I don't recall them rating natural gas generators anyway.  Popular mechanics published this, but I think it is also limited to gas or gas/propane.  generator reviews

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I have a Kohler standby on my current house and my old house (I installed both of them myself).  I did lots of research after Sandy (2012) and although Kohler is a bit more expensive, it is much better than the Generac's.  Kohler is US made (motor, parts, board, etc  -- buy American!).  The Generac sources parts by the lowest bidder (probably mostly Chinese).  So if it ever breaks, you may have a hard time finding the correct parts for it.  The one I put on my new house, this year, I got from Nationwide Generators in IL.  They do not charge state t.a.x, so saved a bunch of $$$ there.  The one at the old house is still going strong after 8 years!  The only thing I've had to replace in the old one was the starter battery (as lead acid batteries only last about 5 or so years).

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7 hours ago, ChrisJM981 said:

My wife stated she wants a nat gas standby generator. Does anyone know of an honest review site to compare different models? 

I've had a Generac for 8 years now and had no issues.

The Electrician we use at work is a Kohler Sales shop and installer and that's all he uses now that they went exclusive.  He's said this to me "I've worked on both, I've installed both, we've had better luck with the Kohlers as far as warranty repairs, getting parts, etc. but I've probably installed 10 times as many Generacs and most of them we don't have any trouble with."  

I don't know what the current crop of Kohler's use, but when I was looking in 2012, I found out that the Kohler has to be further from structures due to the plastic enclosure(plastic burns).  You can place a Generac within 18 inches of something because the enclosure is steel whereas the Kohler has to be at least 5 feet away.  That may have changed or maybe they have a steel option.

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I opted for Kohler's new aluminum enclosure, as it makes it much easier for maintenance (oil changes, etc) with a removable panel.  I think it was about $200 more than the ABS version.  It allows you to do 18 inches if it is parallel to the house and 30 inches if the exhaust faces away.  I always opt to face it away from the house to keep it as quiet as possible inside the house.

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1 hour ago, AdamM said:

I opted for Kohler's new aluminum enclosure, as it makes it much easier for maintenance (oil changes, etc) with a removable panel.  I think it was about $200 more than the ABS version.  It allows you to do 18 inches if it is parallel to the house and 30 inches if the exhaust faces away.  I always opt to face it away from the house to keep it as quiet as possible inside the house.

Cool, glad they have that option.

I will also chime in about wattage.   I have a 14kw Generac.  It is rated at 13kw when on Nat Gas.

Either way, it's enough to run the entire house.  I would recommend not going much bigger than that for pretty much any house of a reasonable size(say 3k square feet or less).  Fuel usage starts going up, then pipes have to be upsized, regulators need to be bigger and for what?  You're probably never even getting close to maxing it out.   I think 13-17kw is the sweet spot for most houses. You can probably run all or almost everything you need.   80% load should be your maximum target.  Figure out what you use, add 25% and that's your KW requirement.

 

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2 hours ago, AdamM said:

I opted for Kohler's new aluminum enclosure, as it makes it much easier for maintenance (oil changes, etc) with a removable panel.  I think it was about $200 more than the ABS version.  It allows you to do 18 inches if it is parallel to the house and 30 inches if the exhaust faces away.  I always opt to face it away from the house to keep it as quiet as possible inside the house.

Attached is what Consumer Reports had recommended. 

The Kohler aluminum is also sound insulated. I'm probably making a bigger deal about the noise than it should be. Some of my neighbors have generators that sound like they're ready for take off. 

Screenshot_20201123-100603_Chrome.jpg

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Unless you have electric heat, electric range/oven or a huge AC unit, a 12Kw genset is more then enough for most any house. Think about how many TVs, 'puters, lights, refrigerators/freezers need to by running to add up to 50 amps. Do an inventory of what you really need to run during a power outage. 

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AC unit (2.5 - 3 ton?) plus blower

1 refrigerator (8.3 amps)

1 freezer (in garage)

dehumidifier for garage

2 tvs/cable/internet

2 laptops

a bunch of lights 

4 ceiling fans

microwave/coffermaker (not at same time)

dishwasher

garage door opener

clothes washer

My house is wired with a 100 amp panel and a 50 amp subpanel. From what I can tell I should be good with a 14k - 16k unit. I can get away with less, but we're probably going to add an addition and upgrade to a 5 ton AC. 

 

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1 hour ago, SW9racer said:

Synthetic Mobile One oil change question. 
Last changed it out 2 years ago, only ran it about an hour each year to prep it. Just checked and it’s still full and clear. What is the storage life of synthetic while it’s inside the genny? 

Just make sure you run it long enough to get good and hot to boil out any moisture that will accumulate in the crankcase. 

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