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The Generator Thread

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It could, but depends on heat source, water source (well pump), how many fridges and freezers, etc.

 

 

Yep.

 

My house can actually run on 1-2kw most times. I have an EU6500iS. I have propane hot water, boiler, clothes dryer, stove. I also have a wood stove for heat. The only thing it doesn't run is central a/c but it will run a window unit just fine. We even run the dishwasher and do laundry when power is out. We just need to make sure we're not running the microwave, toaster oven and doing laundry at the same time. 

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I'm finding a lot of clients asking for generators in their facilities. These are mostly commercial buildings and we seem to be doing a lot of 150kW natural gas units.

 

It seems to be the trend and I am seeing a lot of smaller Generac units pop up next to houses all the time.

 

I've done a couple of residential ones, and a lot of commercial but the surge since Sandy has been noticeable.

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don't forget the maintenance.

those whole house generators exercise on a regular basis. that counts towards the runtime hours. You don't keep up on it and the damn thing will put a rod through the block the first time you REALLY need it.

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also I could use one or more people who know what they're doing when it comes to gas lines. one in freehold and one in westfield. would prefer someone who won't ask too many questions. simple plumb a gas line drop and walk away type jobs.

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also I could use one or more people who know what they're doing when it comes to gas lines. one in freehold and one in westfield. would prefer someone who won't ask too many questions. simple plumb a gas line drop and walk away type jobs.

 

 

When I did my gen, it was so hard even getting a plumber to even come out to look at the job, I just did it myself. And from the numerous "after" pictures I have since seen on the net, I'm glad I did the job myself.

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When I did my gen, it was so hard even getting a plumber to even come out to look at the job, I just did it myself. And from the numerous "after" pictures I have since seen on the net, I'm glad I did the job myself.

 

I did most of it myself as well.   The only thing I didn't do was wiring the automatic transfer switch.   I dug my own trench, lined it with sand, got it inspected and then the gas company attached their line and regulator to my stub out on the generator.   I also poured my own pad and got the generator up on to it.   I paid the electrician 400 bucks to  wire the genset to  the transfer switch.  I provided the wire myself and mounted the switch.   All he had to do was attach it the main, pull it through the conduit and wire it in.  It took 2 hours for him and he dealt with the electric company.

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don't forget the maintenance.

those whole house generators exercise on a regular basis. that counts towards the runtime hours. You don't keep up on it and the damn thing will put a rod through the block the first time you REALLY need it.

 

More likely the battery will die and the unit won't start when you need it.   Many stories like that out there.

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More likely the battery will die and the unit won't start when you need it.   Many stories like that out there.

Mine is not a full standby unit, but I keep a small battery tender attached to it so the battery is always ready to roll in the event she is needed.

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don't forget the maintenance.

those whole house generators exercise on a regular basis. that counts towards the runtime hours. You don't keep up on it and the damn thing will put a rod through the block the first time you REALLY need it.

 

Exercise runtime hours - 20 minutes a week is less then 18 hours a year.

Since the exercise cycle only tests the start and run functions, I don't have mine set for the weekly test. Once a month I cut the main breaker off and let the whole system do a test. That at least lets me know that everything works.

 

I'm curious as to where you got the info on the failures. Or are you referring to earlier standby generic units that were failing with only a couple of hours because of the quality of the installed engines?

 

 

More likely the battery will die and the unit won't start when you need it.   Many stories like that out there.

 

Standby genny should have a built in battery charger - maintainer. And many offer a cold weather kit, which in the case with mine, has a battery warming pad and oil/block heater that comes on in temps below 30.

 

No reason not expect a decent battery, kept at the proper charge level, will last 3-4 years, or more.

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Just did a transfer switch installation myself, manual not automatic and covers interior lights and exterior lights plus some appliances (fridge and microwave, everything else is gas/propane).

 

Here is the newest generator, not from them but can be found online and on craigslist much cheaper: https://colemans.com/shop/military-generators/4-3-3-0kw-generator-gas-powered/

 

Of course if you have the room go for one of these: https://colemans.com/shop/military-generators/generator-10kw-diesel/

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How does one determine the right size portable generator to get? What is the smallest (or biggest) to get to run a few appliances like a freezer, refrigerator, etc.?

 

I see some come with a battery. Why would I want that? What happens if the battery is or goes dead?

 

Thanks.

S.

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How does one determine the right size portable generator to get? What is the smallest (or biggest) to get to run a few appliances like a freezer, refrigerator, etc.?

 

I see some come with a battery. Why would I want that? What happens if the battery is or goes dead?

 

Thanks.

S.

 

Add up the total wattage of the appliances, electronics and lights you want to operate off the generator then add another 30%.  Let's say the fridge, furnace and a few lights will eat up 1500 watts.  You will want a generator that puts out 2000 running watts and 2400 peak/surge watts.  This is a very general example but you should get the idea.  I recommend visiting Generac's website for additional info.

 

Some generators have starter motors, like you car.  Some have remote control starting too.  If the battery is dead, they usually have a pull start.

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your average 4000 to 7000 watt generators will do you well. about the only thing you won't be able to run is central A/C (just too much current draw, especially on kickoff)... you just won't be able to run all the things all the time.

 

something anyone who is planning on doing a DIY generator setup should get is http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

go around and measure as many things as you can and you'll start to get a picture of what you're using. most people run between the 1000 and 2000 watt range for average power draw. the other thing you can do is look at your power bill. if you used for exaample 1500kWh for a month, that works out to just a little over 2kW of average load. (1500 kWh/30 days/24 hours)

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your average 4000 to 7000 watt generators will do you well. about the only thing you won't be able to run is central A/C (just too much current draw, especially on kickoff)... you just won't be able to run all the things all the time.

 

something anyone who is planning on doing a DIY generator setup should get is http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

go around and measure as many things as you can and you'll start to get a picture of what you're using. most people run between the 1000 and 2000 watt range for average power draw. the other thing you can do is look at your power bill. if you used for exaample 1500kWh for a month, that works out to just a little over 2kW of average load. (1500 kWh/30 days/24 hours)

 

 

The Kill A Watt is a great little device but I use it more on the gen side to test the quality of power output.  Every appliance and electronic device has a label on it indicating the maximum power draw.  Some have the info in Watts, others in Amps.  To convert Amps to Watts just multiply Amps * Voltage.  i.e. 10Amp appliance X 120 Volts = 1200 Watts.  fyi, a gas dryer wont use 1200 Watts continuously.  That's what it needs to start the motor.  Same for other motor driven appliances.

 

Lets say you have a fridge that runs on 500W but needs 1000W to start the compressor motor, and you have a dryer that runs on 300W but draws a MAX of 6 Amps to start.  (6A*120V=720W) that's 1720Watts max you will need your generator to put out.  If you are only running the two appliances off of a 1800W max/surge output genny, you'd be okay but try and use a microwave while the other two are operating and you will have problems.  You may think, hmm fridge and dryer run on 800W and my small microwave runs on 750W, boy I have about 200W to spare.  Not really.  remember, anything with a motor uses lots and lots of electrons to get a motor spinning.  You can get away with running the microwave and dryer at the same time if the fridge compressor is off but when the fridge kicks on the breakers will trip.

 

I ran a fridge, furnace, a few CFL lights, LCD TV and DVD player off an 1800W/ 2200W generator no problem. When I needed to do the dishes or a load of laundry I just unplugged the fridge and plugged in the other appliance for the time being.  The other thing I would do is turn the heat down to prevent two high draw initial start appliances from kicking in at the same time. 

 

You can get by with a tiny generator but I recommend a 30Amp (3500 Running/4000 Surge) genny as bare the minimum for living comfortably.  When my 1800/2200 died, I replaced it with a 3500/4000 gen.  With a 30A or lager gen you can realistically think about installing a power inlet and a transfer switch to power the most essential circuits in your home.  No extension cords.

 

Another thing to consider is the availability of fuel.  My neighbors 10HP 7500W genny gulped down nearly 15 gallons of gas a day while my 5.5 HP 1800W genny sipped just under 5 gallons per day.  A more powerful gen is great but is useless if you cant feed it.

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I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels.

 

In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator.

 

You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller).

 

Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue.

 

As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day.

 

The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

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I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels.

 

In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator.

 

You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller).

 

Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue.

 

As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day.

 

The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

Would you be willing to come over and wire me up?  I pay well.

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I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels.

 

In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator.

 

You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller).

 

Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue.

 

As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day.

 

The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

Took your advice and got the Troy Bilt, I was looking for a much larger unit, but if you say thats good enough for a typical home, its good enough for me.  I am all for running the minimum needed. Fridge, freezer, heater and TV, thats really it, I can live without AC or even lights, but dont want my meat to spoil.

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I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels.

 

In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator.

 

You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller).

 

Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue.

 

As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day.

 

The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

excactly what I did. Also ran NG to the back of the house near the 30A inlet, got a 10' 3/4 NG hose w QD fittings(not cheap)) to run the converted genny that can run in my detached garage out of the weather- bring it on! we do practice start-ups twice a yr so others can set it up.Did all the work myself and including the permit am all in at 2K.Great peace of mind. I got a Ridgid 5700/7125 because I liked the Yamaha engine.

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Took your advice and got the Troy Bilt, I was looking for a much larger unit, but if you say thats good enough for a typical home, its good enough for me. I am all for running the minimum needed. Fridge, freezer, heater and TV, thats really it, I can live without AC or even lights, but dont want my meat to spoil.

It will be more than enough for what you listed. I have a family of four and we were running two freezer/fridges , sump pump, boiler, 2 or 3 tv, video game systems, lights in multiple rooms, and my wife ran the washer (and the dryer if we shut all the other breakers off). Never had any issues. Most appliances that you need to keep powered cycle on and off ( fridge, furnace, sump pump, etc), so in reality you only have 1 or 2 items drawing at any given time. That's why there's no point in worrying about Full Load Amperage since you don't need to have everything running at the same time.

 

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excactly what I did. Also ran NG to the back of the house near the 30A inlet, got a 10' 3/4 NG hose w QD fittings(not cheap)) to run the converted genny that can run in my detached garage out of the weather- bring it on! we do practice start-ups twice a yr so others can set it up.Did all the work myself and including the permit am all in at 2K.Great peace of mind. I got a Ridgid 5700/7125 because I liked the Yamaha engine.

Nice! Peace of mind is priceless isn't it.

 

Before we got a generator we lost power for a few days and I lost everything in two freezers. Probably about $500 worth of food. I figure even if I only use the gen twice it will have paid for itself.

 

The only problem now is that when ever the lights even blink my kids want me to start the generator.

 

 

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I used to lose power at least 6 times a year. I also lost a freezer full of meat so I bought a generator and eight 5 gallon gas cans. Five years later and I have never lost my power since! Go figure!!!

It seems just having the generator in my shed keeps the "Blackout Bitch" away!

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excactly what I did. Also ran NG to the back of the house near the 30A inlet, got a 10' 3/4 NG hose w QD fittings(not cheap)) to run the converted genny that can run in my detached garage out of the weather- bring it on! we do practice start-ups twice a yr so others can set it up.Did all the work myself and including the permit am all in at 2K.Great peace of mind. I got a Ridgid 5700/7125 because I liked the Yamaha engine.

running in the garage....what're you doing about the exhaust?

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I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels.

 

In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator.

 

You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller).

 

Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue.

 

As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day.

 

The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

How did you handle bonded neutral? I think generators with dual voltage need to be neutral bonded to meet regs.

 

Neutral switching transfer switch?

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