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gleninjersey

Good Entry Level "Off The Shelf" Buy

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Like what I have been reading about the ALG ACT trigger but haven't tried one yet. Seriously thinking about getting it, preferably with some sort of kit to try to save a little.

 

 

 

I have an ALG ACT trigger coming in sometime this week from midwestpx.  From the reviews I've read it sounds pretty good for only $65 and being tuned/made by geissele as a slightly 'crisper' combat trigger. 

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Getting a little ahead of myself here, but I was reading one of the stickies (I've linked below) about twist ratios.  From my limited reading and the purpose of my build (SHTF, very reliable, etc) it sounds like the 1:9 twist is the way to go.  It readily eats the most common weighted (55 grain) and I don't anticipate ever using this rifle as a sniper rifle where I'm shooting out several hundred yards.

 

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2012/08/foghorn/ask-foghorn-barrel-twist-and-which-is-right-for-your-ar-15/

 

Another article with some good info (and additional articles for newbies including a "Build vs Buy" article) is:

 

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/10/robert-farago/ar-15-rifle-choices/

 

 

I have to think about it more.....if there isn't much of a price difference between a 1:7 twist and a 1:9 twist barrel it may be more logical to go with the 1:7 as it gives you more options such as shooting heavier bullets if that is all that is available.......

 

 

P.S. - I'm linking things as much for my own reference to be able to find the information again as to share with other newbies who may have similar questions.  Hope it helps some others (and makes it easier for me to remember where I read something!).

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I prefer 1/7 twist. Will eat everything you throw at it, even the long, 77grain OTM's for when you really need to reach out and touch someone.

Although I do have quite a bit of success at 5-600 yards with M855 ball through my ACOG equipped Colt 6940.

I find that round is fairly accurate at that range, much better than I expected it to be.

 

In any case, I believe 1.7 twist is the way to go. Simply gives you more ammunition options.

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Just some friendly advice, I bought my first ar and its a quality weapon. But I am about to sell it to fund a build of an ar 100% to my comfort/preferences.

To answer your question most local shops will stock stag, smiths, and windham dominatly with a few premium ar 15s ie dd, bcm, noveske, lwrc. But those ones sell fast.

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I just finished building my first AR lower and it was ridiculously easy.  Start to finish in under 45 minutes using minimal tools and it gave me a full understanding of how everything functions.

 

If you're still considering the ALG ACT trigger, to me it feels much more crisp than the standard M&P15 trigger I was used to.  The look of the nickel boron coating is a big plus for me as well.

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Just bustin em....Seems like the wife holds your ammo too....put Valentine's Day to work for you...12 Roses for her...16" Upper for you. ...I went the poly complete lower and slapped a light weight upper on it...Easy and I was shooting fast. ..now as I learn the rifle more and more I can changing to better parts...Raptor CH next then trigger swap. Good Luck

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Where's a good place to start gathering information? i have a few handguns, little knowledge on them.. none on ARs

 

 

there are people on here that can be really helpful.... the parts you select are just dictated by the ultimate goal of the build.. 

example: a "run and gun" AR will be set up differently than a bench gun.. 

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there are people on here that can be really helpful.... the parts you select are just dictated by the ultimate goal of the build.. 

example: a "run and gun" AR will be set up differently than a bench gun.. 

I guess i'm looking for the same thing as glen, something for the range that's fun to shoot but will do me justice in a SHTF situation. i'm not the best shot with a handgun but i can survive at 15-20 yds so im looking to go 50 yds or so with this. i've never shot an AR either so im not 100% on what im looking for. that's why i was looking at the m&p15 sport, just to get familiar with them

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I run a short 14in to 16in gun out to 300 yards on man sized targets with a red dot and a magnifier... not perfect %100 hits or anything.. but the gun is capable... the gun is still light and nimble inside 100 yards for moving and shooting...

 

if you are not looking to put holes in holes.. I would suggest a 14-16 inch barrel by a reputable company like spikes for example.. with a good brake.. 

trigger is where I spent a large chunk of cash and I find to be one of the most important pieces..

 

what is your budget..

what is the max range would would like to shoot the gun with accuracy...

are you going to mount a light on this thing?

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I run a short 14in to 16in gun out to 300 yards on man sized targets with a red dot and a magnifier... not perfect %100 hits or anything.. but the gun is capable... the gun is still light and nimble inside 100 yards for moving and shooting...

 

if you are not looking to put holes in holes.. I would suggest a 14-16 inch barrel by a reputable company like spikes for example.. with a good brake.. 

trigger is where I spent a large chunk of cash and I find to be one of the most important pieces..

 

what is your budget..

what is the max range would would like to shoot the gun with accuracy...

are you going to mount a light on this thing?

i have 2 things going on now. an AR and a Kimber. since im waiting on a permit and an address change (gotta love jersey) i still have time so put some money away. i would at most, i'm looking at 700 on the AR for right now. more focus on the important parts. stock, grip, optics can all be upgraded in the future

max range i would 125 yards is more than enough. i want it to be accurate but its no sniper rifle

i may mount a light at some point but not right away

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i have 2 things going on now. an AR and a Kimber. since im waiting on a permit and an address change (gotta love jersey) i still have time so put some money away. i would at most, i'm looking at 700 on the AR for right now. more focus on the important parts. stock, grip, optics can all be upgraded in the future

max range i would 125 yards is more than enough. i want it to be accurate but its no sniper rifle

i may mount a light at some point but not right away

 

 

at 100 yards AR15 all day.. most good quality builds should be pretty solid in that range.. 

 

I like mid length gas system coupled with a good brake.. making recoil virtually non existent.. 

700 will be tight.... skimp on the parts that don't matter.. 

 

pistol grip... stock.. handguard... non of that stuff will really impact the weapon...

go with the bare bones trigger that comes with the lower parts kit (upgrade later)

 

get the lower by itself ASAP.. that is the serialized part of the gun that has to go through an FFL.. everything else can be ordered.. 

a spikes lower should be around 100 bucks.. and you can come up from there.. 

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Some good advice from Vlad above. I differ with him on one point, and it's minor. I prefer a carbine length gas system over middy. Why? It's what I know, what I have experience with over a few decades of working with AR's.

 

I also prefer 1/7 twist barrels. They handle a greater selection of bullet weights.

 

Like Vlad says, get a good comp/brake. You can get a good one without spending a fortune.

I use the Gen II comp from Evolution Gun Works.

It's not a BattleComp by any stretch, but it doesn't cost $150 either.

Should you like to try the EGW comp, and you live in the South Jersey area, yo can try one of mine.

 

Spend some money and get a good bolt carrier group (BCG). Palmetto State Armory has their house brand premium bcg for about $130 these days. It is made from the proper mil-spec steel (Carpenter 158), is high pressure/magnetic particle tested.

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Some good advice from Vlad above. I differ with him on one point, and it's minor. I prefer a carbine length gas system over middy. Why? It's what I know, what I have experience with over a few decades of working with AR's.

 

I also prefer 1/7 twist barrels. They handle a greater selection of bullet weights.

 

Like Vlad says, get a good comp/brake. You can get a good one without spending a fortune.

I use the Gen II comp from Evolution Gun Works.

It's not a BattleComp by any stretch, but it doesn't cost $150 either.

Should you like to try the EGW comp, and you live in the South Jersey area, yo can try one of mine.

 

Spend some money and get a good bolt carrier group (BCG). Palmetto State Armory has their house brand premium bcg for about $130 these days. It is made from the proper mil-spec steel (Carpenter 158), is high pressure/magnetic particle tested.

What's the difference between the regular bcg vs the nickel plated one?

I've checked out the other things your mentioned. Who makes a 1/7 barrel that is good. I'm anxious to start this build buy have to wait for my town to re-do the background check for my fid address change.

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http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=BCM-BRL-s-MID-14+BFH

 

 

 

What's the difference between the regular bcg vs the nickel plated one?

I've checked out the other things your mentioned. Who makes a 1/7 barrel that is good. I'm anxious to start this build buy have to wait for my town to re-do the background check for my fid address change.

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My $0.02, to first-time builders, if you're going to build/assemble, spend $20 and buy an armorer's manual or some other hard copy book - something written by a gunsmith that contains torque values, diagrams, tools, compounds, etc.

 

Unless, of course, you prefer to get your gunsmith advice from a service whose primary purpose is to disseminate cat videos .

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What's the difference between the regular bcg vs the nickel plated one?

I've checked out the other things your mentioned. Who makes a 1/7 barrel that is good. I'm anxious to start this build buy have to wait for my town to re-do the background check for my fid address change.

 

I don't believe the fancy coatings make a whole hell of a lot of difference in BCG's. In my opinion, they are not much more than a gimmick.

A standard, mil-spec phosphate finished BCG will serve you quite nicely. I cleaned one of my rifles last night that had about 3000 rounds of accumulated crud built up on it and it wiped clean with little to no effort.

 

I am in the camp that believes that unless you are after something very specific in an upper receiver, that it's cheaper/easier to buy one outright than to build it.

Palmetto State Armory has a nice selection of uppers. I will only buy the 'premium' uppers from them, the ones with the cold hammer forged barrels (CHF). They are made by FN, and regarded as excellent barrels.

Bravo Company also sells some uppers of excellent quality. Both of these companies sell out stock quickly, so check in often and be ready to strike when your part is in stock.

While I have the tools to build an upper (and if you don't, you'll need to add this into the cost of you building an upper), I find that the time consumed by scrounging around different vendors for parts negates any cost savings.

 

The advice above is excellent....buy an armorer's manual.

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My $0.02, to first-time builders, if you're going to build/assemble, spend $20 and buy an armorer's manual or some other hard copy book - something written by a gunsmith that contains torque values, diagrams, tools, compounds, etc.
 
Unless, of course, you prefer to get your gunsmith advice from a service whose primary purpose is to disseminate cat videos .

 

 

the values needed are only relevant if he is actually building the upper... which he certainly can do... I looked into it and for me with the standard barrel setup I was interested in.. it didn't pay me to build the upper... so there is really no value in a hard copy book.. AR15 is like legos.. do it once and you get it... its not like a car that has 8 million different specs and procedures involved.. 

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Some good advice from Vlad above. I differ with him on one point, and it's minor. I prefer a carbine length gas system over middy. Why? It's what I know, what I have experience with over a few decades of working with AR's.

 

 

have you ever shot a mid length gas gun?

there is nothing wrong with carbine... but mid length nets you a softer shooting gun which makes follow up shots faster.. with no ill consequence.. when talking about 556 I would not do anything but mid length... 

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have you ever shot a mid length gas gun?

there is nothing wrong with carbine... but mid length nets you a softer shooting gun which makes follow up shots faster.. with no ill consequence.. when talking about 556 I would not do anything but mid length...

I have shot mid length, even owned a middy upper for awhile.

I didn't find a huge difference in follow up shots between it and a carbine for me.

Decided I preferred the reliability of the carbine length gas system. Just my personal preference.

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the values needed are only relevant if he is actually building the upper... which he certainly can do... I looked into it and for me with the standard barrel setup I was interested in.. it didn't pay me to build the upper... so there is really no value in a hard copy book.. AR15 is like legos.. do it once and you get it... its not like a car that has 8 million different specs and procedures involved.. 

 

Having gone down the "build and customize" road, I get it. When I built my first, one "mil-spec" part wasn't "mil-spec" enough; this was before YouTube, and a book helped me troubleshoot.

 

I agree - building one is a worthwhile project and a great way to learn the platform. Still, just a consideration, if you're new or want extra piece of mind, spend $20 on a manual - to have it and not need it.

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