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Is This the Last Revolver I'll ever Need? 627PC

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So one of the guns I want to get with some permits coming in is a revolver.  

I have been eyeing the 627 for a while. Originally the 4" version, but wondering

if I should go all out and get the PC version.  

 

Intended uses are steel, maybe some USPSA now that they allow 8 shots.  

Overall just to have a sweet wheel gun.  

 

The way I look at it is this will have the trigger work, grips, etc etc all ready to

go and I won't have to change a thing.

 

Worth the extra cost?  Good revolver to start with?  Be all end all wheel gun?  

 

What are your thoughts?

 

170210_01_md.jpg

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I just got the 627 pro. Its an accessory to my trr8. Now just waiting on permits

 

I was considering this one as well.  I'm kind between the Pro and stepping it up to the PC.  

 

I felt a PC trigger and it was amazing.

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I've got the 627 PC and it is awesome , but you'll never have the last revolver you'll ever need...

I've been looking at the Trr8 since they came out and I still can't tell myself  don't need one!!

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You owe it to yourself to try a Ruger GP100. Smooth as butter, six shots in .357 mag or .38 sp. You'll not be disappointed, and you'll save $200.

Paid for a gp100 today, permits are about a week out. Is the stock trigger smooth? Or did you have some type of work done on it?

The person helping me today didn't want me to dry fire it.

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So one of the guns I want to get with some permits coming in is a revolver.

I have been eyeing the 627 for a while. Originally the 4" version, but wondering

if I should go all out and get the PC version.

 

Intended uses are steel, maybe some USPSA now that they allow 8 shots.

Overall just to have a sweet wheel gun.

 

The way I look at it is this will have the trigger work, grips, etc etc all ready to

go and I won't have to change a thing.

 

Worth the extra cost? Good revolver to start with? Be all end all wheel gun?

 

What are your thoughts?

 

170210_01_md.jpg

I saw it at ottomanelli's and it looked like a very nice wheel gun.

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You owe it to yourself to try a Ruger GP100. Smooth as butter, six shots in .357 mag or .38 sp. You'll not be disappointed, and you'll save $200.

 

I put a cylinders worth of very hot 357 mag handloads down range.  Felt like shooting a 9mm.  

 

I just lean toward the S&W, but yes the Rugers are really nice.  I actually like the SP101 a lot.

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I have the 627 Pro. Very comfortable to shoot in either .38 or .357. Very smooth trigger, and I like the 8 rounds too.

 

As long as you're willing to accept the weight, very nice.

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Paid for a gp100 today, permits are about a week out. Is the stock trigger smooth? Or did you have some type of work done on it?

 

Some are smoother than others. My 3" was a heavier than my 4" out of the box. After a few hundred rounds it smoothed out considerably and keeps getting better. It's still not a smooth as a Smith, but getting closer.

 

The person helping me today didn't want me to dry fire it.

 

Seriously? Either a jerk or doesn't know what the hell he's doing. You can dry fire a GP all day, everyday and with no problem.

 

 

 

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Most dealers do not want you to dryfire.  Maybe cause it might show wear on the hammer which makes it look not as new.

 

But it does suck cause that's the only way you can test the trigger of the gun.  

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The S&W 627 is an excellent platform for both USPSA, Steel, home defense, etc.

 

Dont waste your money going for the PC version because you think it has a better trigger, it may be better slighty. Take the extra cash you saved and have somebody slick up the action and do a trigger job for you, it'll be worlds better then anything that comes out of the performence center.

 

The only reason i'd go with the PC version is for the longer barrel, the PC comes with a 5" , the Pro Series comes with a 4". Personally, I like the longer barrells, but it's all shooter preference.

 

There is no comparison to the S&W 627 and the Ruger GP100, you'll be happier with the 627

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The way I look at it is this will have the trigger work, grips, etc etc all ready to

go and I won't have to change a thing.

 

Worth the extra cost?  Good revolver to start with?  Be all end all wheel gun?  

 

What are your thoughts?

 

 

 

Also to add to " not having to change a thing "

 

Front sight, Rear sight blade, Grips - are all subjective.

 

Personally, I hate the hogue grips that have finger grooves in them, every one I have ever picked up forces me to hold my hand too low.  Black on Black sights, or Black on gold - IMO - no good. Something like a Green or Red fiber up front and a full face .140 wide notch blade on the back works for me.

 

Even though the PC versions advertise that the trigger work is done, it'll still be between 12 and 14 pounds double action, you can easily cut that in half with a little bit of money and work , how light you go depends on what primers/ammo you use.

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Paid for a gp100 today, permits are about a week out. Is the stock trigger smooth? Or did you have some type of work done on it?

The person helping me today didn't want me to dry fire it.

I didn't do any trigger work whatsoever. You'll love this gun. 

 

I wonder why the counter guy didn't let you dry fire it. These guys are not always very knowledgeable. I dry-fire practice with my GP and SP101 all the time but not with my S&W 617, which is a rimfire.

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I didn't do any trigger work whatsoever. You'll love this gun. 

 

I wonder why the counter guy didn't let you dry fire it. These guys are not always very knowledgeable. I dry-fire practice with my GP and SP101 all the time but not with my S&W 617, which is a rimfire.

 

You can dry fire your S&W 617, unless you installed an aftermarket extended firing pin, which will make contact with the cylinder. You'll start to see some peening along the inner rim of the chamber mouth. 

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You can dry fire your S&W 617, unless you installed an aftermarket extended firing pin, which will make contact with the cylinder. You'll start to see some peening along the inner rim of the chamber mouth. 

Alec, do you have any reference for this? 

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Alec, do you have any reference for this? 

 

No reference, beside personal experience, I dry fire my 617 hundreds of times a week for over a year now with zero issues. I understand how it works, and why some will say dont do it. 

 

If you arent sure of the firing pin length, and want to continue on the side of caution, by all means use snap caps.

 

But, it's pretty easy to tell on the 617 if you shouldn't be dry firing, firing pin will make contact with the recessed part of the chamber mouth, causing damage to it, and the firing pin. 

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No reference, beside personal experience, I dry fire my 617 hundreds of times a week for over a year now with zero issues. I understand how it works, and why some will say dont do it. 

 

If you arent sure of the firing pin length, and want to continue on the side of caution, by all means use snap caps.

 

But, it's pretty easy to tell on the 617 if you shouldn't be dry firing, firing pin will make contact with the recessed part of the chamber mouth, causing damage to it, and the firing pin. 

It's kindof late to notice after you've damaged a $700 gun! But I'll take this into consideration. I'll use spent .22s instead of snap caps. Much cheaper :)

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