Target AR15 build

[devils4ever 0]

I've been shooting my Rem 700 rifle in 223 for decades, but I finally got the urge to build a target AR-15 rifle. I've resisted the urge for decades, but I've finally succumbed. I want to buy or build a target rifle. My choices are either a S&W version or build one. I've read many websites and everyone seems to recommend a build versus a buy. No problem. I can take my time and do the build over time to minimize $$$ and get exactly want I want.

 

So, I've only done some research and I think I want the following:

 

1. 223/5.56 heavy  Wylde barrel. Twist rate?

2. 20" min stainless bull barrel. No flash hider, no muzzle brake needed.

3. Flat-top for both iron sights and scope.

4. Floating barrel.

5. M4 ramps. Any reason not to?

6. Fixed stock.

 

Does this make sense?

 

Can anyone recommend specific components?

 

Where to buy the lower receiver? I'm not far from Jim Flynn for this or Hackettstown Guns and Ammo or Ramsey Outdoors.

 

Do I need a book to do this or is watching Brownells videos enough? Or, more youtube videos?

 

Of course, I want to keep this NJ legal and US legal. Is this considered being a gun manufacturer?

 

Sorry for so many questions.

 

Thanks.

[Jon 264]

If you're interested, I've been toying with selling my precision side-charging upper which meets every one of your requirements except barrel length. Mine is 18" but it shoots ~1/2" with good 75gr handloads.

[T Bill 649]

1.  SS 223 Wylde 1:8 twist  11 degree recessed crown  YES
2,  20-26in depending on your definition of target rifle. See White Oak Armament
3. Just about all are today
4.  But of course, only way to fly.
5.  No reason not to most are anyway.
6.  Your choice A2, Magpul, Luth-AR all fine
See Jim Flynn you can get a RRA lower no problem.
Other items to consider are Fire Control Group and charging handle.  There are several good suppliers to help with the build.  Not that hard, lower is easy, upper takes a little understanding, and a barrel nut wrench.
 
Choice is all yours.  Again, what type of target shooting.  National Match, Benchrest, Bi-pod?  This will make a difference in make up.  My National Match is different from my 24" bull barrel on a bi-pod for varmint and target shooting.
Let us know what your preferred type of shooting will be and I am sure we can help!
 
Here's my target/varmint.



Wilson Arms 24" SS Bull Barrel 1:8 Wylde 11 degree recessed crown, Houge FF tube and grip, RRA lower w/ 2 stage 3.5 lb trigger, Nibx BCG, RRA Operator A2 Stock, Sightmark 8.5-25 X 50 MilDot, Magpul BAD lever, Harris Bi-Pod.

[MidwestPX 172]

I've been shooting my Rem 700 rifle in 223 for decades, but I finally got the urge to build a target AR-15 rifle. I've resisted the urge for decades, but I've finally succumbed. I want to buy or build a target rifle. My choices are either a S&W version or build one. I've read many websites and everyone seems to recommend a build versus a buy. No problem. I can take my time and do the build over time to minimize $$$ and get exactly want I want.

 

So, I've only done some research and I think I want the following:

 

1. 223/5.56 heavy  Wylde barrel. Twist rate?

2. 20" min stainless bull barrel. No flash hider, no muzzle brake needed.

3. Flat-top for both iron sights and scope.

4. Floating barrel.

5. M4 ramps. Any reason not to?

6. Fixed stock.

 

Does this make sense?

 

Can anyone recommend specific components?

 

Where to buy the lower receiver? I'm not far from Jim Flynn for this or Hackettstown Guns and Ammo or Ramsey Outdoors.

 

Do I need a book to do this or is watching Brownells videos enough? Or, more youtube videos?

 

Of course, I want to keep this NJ legal and US legal. Is this considered being a gun manufacturer?

 

Sorry for so many questions.

 

Thanks.

1. Seven twist or Eight twist. I'm a fan of eight twist in the AR15 because you can shoot the light varmint bullets without overstabilitizing them while still being able to stabilize the heaviest bullets that can be loaded to mag length.

2. White Oak Armament makes great barrels.

3. You can use any forged or billet A3/A4 receiver. I would go with an A4 if your barrel extension has M4 feedramps.

4. Tons of handguard choices. Quad rail vs. tubular, 1913 vs. Key Mod vs. M-Lok. Once you figure out what you want feature-wise, you can narrow down the list. Personally, I'm a fan of the Centurion CMR due to simple design, modularity, and being pretty lightweight. I'm biased because I have one on my favorite rifle and I happen to sell them.

5. M4 feedramps were Colt's suggestion to increasing feeding reliability in select-fire rifles. For a precision build, they aren't necessary.

6. A1/A2, Magpul MOE, Magpul PRS, and the Luth-AR are all good choices for this role. If you want an adjustable length of pull and cheekweld, I suggest the Luth-AR. It's lighter and cheaper than the PRS but maintains adjustability like the PRS. If you don'd need adjustability, I personally would opt for an A2.

 

As for where you can get a lower, you can get those locally or you can buy online and have one transferred. Lowers are as cheap as I've seen them in five years so now's a good time to buy.

 

Building the rifle is really pretty easy. Lowers don't require special tools. Uppers can be a little trickier due to barrel nut wrenches and vise block options.

 

You are not considered to be a manufacturer if you build a rifle from parts for yourself. If you make a habit of doing it and selling them, well, the ATF and/or NJSP may not take too kindly to that.

[devils4ever 0]

Does anyone know what Jim Flynn gets, out the door, for a RRA lower receiver?

[Old School 611]

We have enough members here that I think you can shoot various rifles to see what you like.

 

PM me and you can shoot my 24" Bull barrel. 

[T Bill 649]

Does anyone know what Jim Flynn gets, out the door, for a RRA lower receiver?

It was close to a buck and a half before the big hoopla. Might be about the same now. Give him a call.  Stripped that is.

[devils4ever 0]

Just to keep everyone informed, I picked up an Anderson stripped lower receiver from Jim Flynn for $80 plus $15 NICS. He was out of RRA lowers and said that Anderson is his #1 best seller.

 

I also got a Shilen 20" Match SS HBAR barrel in 223 Wylde chanber with matching bolt. 

[Old School 611]

Just to keep everyone informed, I picked up an Anderson stripped lower receiver from Jim Flynn for $80 plus $15 NICS. He was out of RRA lowers and said that Anderson is his #1 best seller.

 

I also got a Shilen 20" Match SS HBAR barrel in 223 Wylde chanber with matching bolt.

You won't be disappointed with that barrel/bolt combo. I've only heard good things!

[T Bill 649]

Ditto ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[BlueLineFish 615]

Building one too. Just got in my RRA 24" upper

[louu 399]

Youze guys should assemble/get service rifles, and shoot across the course matches.

Thats what real men do, just sayin...

[devils4ever 0]

Youze guys should assemble/get service rifles, and shoot across the course matches.

Thats what real men do, just sayin...

 

Okay, that'll be my next build! 

[devils4ever 0]

I'm looking at getting the bolt carrier next. I'm a little confused on the legalities of the M16 version versus the AR15 version. I understand that Federal law seems okay with the M16 bolt carrier. However, what about the NJ legalities?

 

I would prefer the M16 version since there are a LOT more choices for bolt carrier.

 

Also, what brands are recommended? Finishes? Chrome, Nickel boron?

[blksheep 466]

NJ makes no difference. Get a quality BCM, Colt, Daniel Defense. Stay with a regular finish.

[jrfly3006 42]

I would add Rainier Arms to the list...quality stuff from a standup company

[echo five foxtrot 1]

I just got an email from AIM surplus, I do not have any experience with this BCG, but here it is;

 

NICKEL BORON BOLT CARRIER GROUPS
ONLY $79.95 DELIVERED!*
*Special one time offer. While supplies last! ARES ARMOR marked Nickel Boron 5.56/.223/.300 BLACKOUT Bolt Carrier Groups. Machined to Military Specifications. This great BCG features a properly staked Gas Key, 8620 M16 Carrier and 9310 Bolt. All properly heat treated for superior strength. Bolt and Extractor are shot peened

[T Bill 649]

NiBx finish subject to debate. Some believe it is flash in the pan.  Others believe the expense is worth it.  I have both and cannot see any difference in performance.  9310 is not the milspec TDP material, carpenter 158 is.  There is some debate as to the durability of 9310.  I do not know if this is a concern or not given the amount of use it will be asked to endure. For the price sounds like it could be worth it.   

[MidwestPX 172]

NiBx finish subject to debate. Some believe it is flash in the pan.  Others believe the expense is worth it.  I have both and cannot see any difference in performance.  9310 is not the milspec TDP material, carpenter 158 is.  There is some debate as to the durability of 9310.  I do not know if this is a concern or not given the amount of use it will be asked to endure. For the price sounds like it could be worth it.

Nickel boron is a good coating but can be expensive. NiB-X is WMD Guns specific while UCT does a different process with a higher boron content. Personally, I used to run phosphated BCGs exclusively. I have one NiB-X in service in my SPR and I have two nitrided BCGs in test guns. I'm modifying one to fire from an open bolt with a fixed firing pin to really abuse/test it. Nitriding is relatively inexpensive compared to nickel boron and imparts similar lubricity, corrosion resistance, and surface hardness and I think is a better value relative to nickel boron.

 

As for 9310, it is a valid alternate material to C158 according to the current military drawing. The tricky thing about 9310 is the heat treat. The window to get it right is much smaller than C158 which is part of what makes them more expensive. The reason why we see so many 9310 bolts on the market is because some of the smaller shops making them cannot afford to buy an entire mill run of C158. But it's a good metal for the application.