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Sandy

Estimating value of firearms

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80% of what you think it's worth is a good place to start.  I know that sounds facetious, but it's the reality of the thing.   It also depends on how old, how shot up, how beat up, how popular, when it was purchased, etc.

 

The only guns that I have that are worth more than they were bought for, were all purchased at least 20 years ago.

 

I.E. "This should be worth $500, I paid $550 for it in 2009"...it's really worth about $400.

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First, I see how cheap it can be had for new by checking budsgunshop and Kentucky gun company (+ shipping + transfer). Then I check how much it costs new locally (+tax). Then I look for local used classifieds. Ill determine a fair asking priced based on these three sources.

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^^^^He wouldn't know Sandy, as he never sells anything, lol!

 

Seriously, I would consult the Blue Book of Gun Values, the Shooter's Bible and other such products used to establish price.  In addition, I'd look into niche web sites & Facebook groups that deal with a particular brand/type/action of a firearm as these can be very helpful.  Bidding wars on Gun Broker can elevate some used prices to near-new, so I wouldn't be too quick to base a sale upon Gun Broker.  Sometimes it's nice to be able to just go into a brick and mortar Mom and Pop shop you've developed a rapport with as a customer and simply ask them to look it up for you...  And then chat about how much was the last one that they handled, take a peek in their Blue Book, etc.  Someone over at Anthony's might have one (the Blue Book or Shooter's Bible) laying in an office some place, or in the Lounge?

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First, I see how cheap it can be had for new by checking budsgunshop and Kentucky gun company (+ shipping + transfer). Then I check how much it costs locally. Then I look for local used classifieds. Ill determine a fair asking priced based on these three sources.

If its something thats still currently sold then this is def the way to go.

 

If its not in current production see my above post.

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There is a blue book on firearms.  In the older stuff it's a good guide.

 

On newer popular stuff you need to do an analysis.

 

Example:  I have a Glock 34 w/ approx 15k rounds through it.  New cost $625  But it looks like new and has all the original stuff.

                Springs have been changed,tungsten guide rod.  I think $550 it would go in a heart beat.  add $50 for a KKM barrel.

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First, I see how cheap it can be had for new by checking budsgunshop and Kentucky gun company (+ shipping + transfer). Then I check how much it costs new locally (+tax). Then I look for local used classifieds. Ill determine a fair asking priced based on these three sources.

Thanks , that helps.

 

There is a blue book thats a good reference for what the current retail value should be. It accounts for condition as well.

 

Its not always spot on but Ive found it to be a good reference.

I'll see if they have one at GFH , thanks :)

 

I don't think he ever "sold" a gun.

 

(Nevermind, I misunderstood that reference.)

I know , but I fully expect him to PM me to see what I am selling lol

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There is a blue book thats a good reference for what the current retail value should be. It accounts for condition as well. Its not always spot on but Ive found it to be a good reference.

+1

I have the current book if you need info.

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When you are thinking of selling a gun , where do you look to determine approximate private sale value? Gunbrokers is all over the place.

 

I fully expect a PM from Bluelinefish is T minus...... :haha:

If you're selling to a private individual use current pricing and negotiate down to what you paid.

 

If you're selling to a dealer multiply what you paid for the guy by 1/3 and hope he doesn't laugh at you.

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I look at gunbroker for completed auctions that actually sold rather than the ones that had no bids or didn't meet the reserve price. If you're desperate to sell go with the lower 3rd of what you find. If you're willing to wait for the right buyer go for the midpoint. If you're advertising them to appease a nagging spouse, triple the highest number you can think of :D

 

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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I look at gunbroker for completed auctions that actually sold rather than the ones that had no bids or didn't meet the reserve price. If you're desperate to sell go with the lower 3rd of what you find. If you're willing to wait for the right buyer go for the midpoint.

 

I also use the "Mr Stu" method to gauge auction prices on something I may be jonesing for as well as what I imagine something might be worth as I generally don't sell stuff.

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The used value of most durable goods is usually 50-75% of retail price. For example, a Snap-On ratchet I bought new for $100 years ago? Worth about $50 used. Firearms are one of the kings of durable goods, if kept in good condition. Condition, age, rarity, and desireability all play a part in the value of course, as well as manufacturer.

 

I have a 2003 and 2004 edition of a firearms value guide, good at giving a rough estimate, even though it is outdated.

 

Gunbroker is good at getting a rough idea as well for more common stuff. I use that to gauge the price of anything I'm looking to purchase, to make sure I'm buying at about the going market rate or below.

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The used value of most durable goods is usually 50-75% of retail price. For example, a Snap-On ratchet I bought new for $100 years ago? Worth about $50 used. Firearms are one of the kings of durable goods, if kept in good condition. Condition, age, rarity, and desireability all play a part in the value of course, as well as manufacturer.

 

I have a 2003 and 2004 edition of a firearms value guide, good at giving a rough estimate, even though it is outdated.

 

Gunbroker is good at getting a rough idea as well for more common stuff. I use that to gauge the price of anything I'm looking to purchase, to make sure I'm buying at about the going market rate or below.

Great post ^^^^^^^ horrible avatar! :rolleyes:

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