Lalo 13 Posted January 5, 2015 Gun is a full size M&P9. Since the stock trigger/action on the M&P leaves a lot to be desired, I'm looking to upgrade some of the components for a better feeling action. I'm choosing to go the Apex route instead of custom or DIY trigger jobs because I would like to be able to reverse the process if I ever choose to sell it or swap parts out in the future. I need some help choosing which components from Apex I should get. Here are some of the options I've found so far, help me think this through. APEX M&P Polymer Action Enhancement Trigger (100-025) - $40 https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191817 - PROS: Solid body trigger face. 20% reduction in in pre/over travel. Relatively cheap upgrade. - CONS: Changing trigger component will put me in a different class when running competitions. Does nothing to change the trigger pull. APEX M&P Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit (100-073) - $93 https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191851 - PROS: Everyone talks about getting this kit "DCAEK" because it's the bees knees. Shortens overtravel. Smoothes trigger pull. Won't have to change divisions in competitions right since it's all internal mods? - CONS: Keeps the trigger pull at about 5 to 5.5lbs. (still better than stock) APEX M&P Competition Action Enhancement Kit (100-072) - $98 https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191850 - PROS: Shortens overtravel, smoothes trigger pull, lightens trigger pull by approximately 4 lbs, won't have to change divisions in competitions right since it's all internal mods? - CONS: Too light a trigger pull for self defense but good for competition. APEX M&P Polymer Forward Set Sear and Trigger Kit (100-024) - $130 https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191816 - PROS: Reduced trigger pre-travel and over travel. Smooth trigger pull. Improved safety values through the use of a center mounted pivoting safety. 4lbs or 5.5lbs trigger pull weight, depending on which trigger return spring is installed with the kit. - CONS: Too light a trigger pull for self defense but good for competition. Changing trigger component will put me in a different class when running competitions. I shoot steel matches and competitions from time to time and I understand that changing internal parts might keep me in one division versus modifying an external component like the trigger might bump me up to the next division but need some clarification on that as well. So what are the other differences with these kits I'm not seeing? I was thinking of going with the APEX M&P Polymer Forward Set Sear and Trigger Kit (100-024) for $130 but then I thought about changing divisions in competitions might have me running against other more heavily modified race guns which would suck for me. I guess the other question I have is if the new trigger is really necessary? If not I was thinking of going with the APEX M&P Competition Action Enhancement Kit (100-072) for $98 but I'd really love to improve the creep and travel of the stock trigger. Thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krdshrk 3,877 Posted January 5, 2015 I say go with the DCAEK or CAEK - those will keep you in the Production division... Or if you're feeling like DIY, Try the Burwell Trigger Job Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks Nick. Read through that DIY trigger job many times and while it looks simple, I've never done anything like that on a firearm so I'd be afraid to make a change that would screw things up. Right now I'm torn between the CAEK and the FSS kit with trigger... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twong11219 0 Posted January 5, 2015 I tried the Burwell trig job. Only thing I didn't do was reshape the sear as that's a one way deal to the trash bin if overdone. I did polish all the contact surfaces though. Overall the smoothness of the trigger pull was greatly improved from stock parts and I was able to shed off ~0.75-1lb. The largest gain in smoothing out the pull and getting rid of that gritty feeling is polishing that firing pin block. I too wanted to revert back to stock if I wanted to. Eventually I got a Forward Set Sear and Trigger as a present. No more spongy flex of the S&W pivoting poly trigger but trigger reset feeling completely disappeared. Followed up with installing the Apex RAM. I like it a lot now. Creep is there but reduced and overtravel is negligible. My biggest sacrifice was that it's not Prod happy anymore. Any external modification to the firing mechanism, mainly the trigger for the M&P will dump you out of Prod in USPSA so stick with all the internal changes if you want to stay in Production. Also keep in mind where and how much you want to stipple if you go that route. Over-stippling certain areas will dump you out of Prod as well. As my M&P wasn't purely for USPSA Prod and more towards HD (got a tac rail for mounting a light), 3G (no safety to flip on/off) and maybe open div (got the Core model), not being able to do Prod was a small sacrifice for me. I've even used it in knockdown steel with a 9mm conversion barrel and a red dot mounted on the slide. By far the most versatile HG I own. Don't feel under equipped shooting other divisions. Your major disadvantage is that you'll be scoring as minor. Go for the AAs and you'll be right up with the rest of the bunch. Just need to be more critical with your shots and consider it a challenge. Just look at the Single Stack minors out there. The additional 2rds can make the difference in saving a reload. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted January 5, 2015 100-072 is what I run my M&P that use for USPSA production and 3gun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks twong11219, real helpful info there. I was also considering the RAM but I don't think my M&P9 will take it. Mine has a square plug at the back of the frame. The video below talks about the "45's" with the black square plug but didnt say anything about a 9. I think I'm going to wrip it open tonight and snap a picture to see if I can compare it with others I find online. If I am able to get the RAM, I will totally get it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted January 5, 2015 The Ram should work in pretty much anything without a lock. The hole in the frame doesn't matter, the whole thing sits inside the sear block where the lock would fit if it existed. The outside hole is not relevant to its installation. edited to fix stupid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twong11219 0 Posted January 5, 2015 That should be correct on what Vlad said. From the Apex vids on YouTube, if no safety and it's not an older generation model, you're GTG. If you do have an older gen model, S&W and Apex sell the rear block to allow for RAM installations. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RS1200XL 4 Posted January 6, 2015 I put the DCAEK and RAM in my M&P9...however I did not install the new trigger spring with the DCAEK. The result is a 4.5 lbs trigger that is really crisp. The trigger spring that comes with the kit raises the trigger pull by about 1lbs for carry purposes. Since my 9mm is now strictly a USPSA production gun, I really don't care. When I do my 40c which I carry I'll install the added spring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted January 6, 2015 i put kit 100-072 in two days ago along with some polishing of certain contact points....buttery smooth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted January 6, 2015 I have the APEX DCAEK Kit with the APEX AEK Polymer Trigger on my M&P 45c. It's a great set up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 6, 2015 So it looks like my SHB is one of the newer ones and won't take the RAM... sucks... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted January 6, 2015 So it looks like my SHB is one of the newer ones and won't take the RAM... sucks... image.jpg right you are....no giant ass hole going through the middle of the housing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SW9racer 262 Posted January 6, 2015 The first question to ask is why do you go to the competitions. Is it to become a pro, or to have fun. If it's to have fun, then the division does not matter. You compare your score against yourself to see how you are progressing. For my M&P 9 Pro I went Apex FSS and Ram. I sent my slide out for lighting cuts and a red dot RMR carved in deep. I went full open minor with the comp, thumb rest, and mag well. I use it in open minor, for steel, and idpa scoreless. I will never be in any type of pro class so I shoot for fun and to look good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted January 6, 2015 Huh. I never realized they made such a sear cage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shocker 150 Posted January 6, 2015 From what I've read the newer M&Ps have the improved Shield triggers that don't need a RAM. If you can hear and feel your reset then I would be happy and just move along. If you have a new sear housing that seems like evidence you have the new trigger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 6, 2015 The first question to ask is why do you go to the competitions. Is it to become a pro, or to have fun. If it's to have fun, then the division does not matter. You compare your score against yourself to see how you are progressing. It's funny you mention that because I did ask myself that question about why I go to competitions and the answer is simply TO HAVE FUN! I am, however, a competitive person so I know that if I continuously see my name at the bottom of the list it's going to bother me. It's all a mind game for me so maybe I just won't look at the scores after a match! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 9, 2015 Just as an FYI for anyone looking at this in the future. It looks like this is the old style SHB but comes with the internal lock which can be removed in order to accept the RAM. Now I just have to find an ejector to fit that SHB. http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/sear-parts/sear-assemblies/sear-housing-block-assembly-standard-sku940000958-23189-49654.aspx ETA - Actually, cancel that. This one also has the mag disconnect which would also have to be removed. Plus I read a thread on the M&P Pistol forums where a guy tried to do this and it didn't end up working well. Oh well, I guess the RAM was not meant to be. Leaving this here for future reference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lalo 13 Posted January 23, 2015 UPDATE So I ended up getting the FSS & trigger kit for the 'ol M&P9. Picked it up last week for $120 shipped from Amazon and got to me in 2 days (Prime). Installation was surprisingly easy and took about 30 minutes. The results really are incredible! The different trigger, lighter trigger spring, striker block and other components that were replaced really make for a lot nicer, more refined trigger pull. The long pre travel and over travel are greatly reduced. The smoothness of the trigger pull is so much better than the rough, gritty stock trigger. I was afraid that I was going to lose the little reset feel that the stock trigger had like I've read in many other forums but that wasn't the case. The reset is the same if not a little better than stock. Overall I'm extremely happy with the way the gun shoots now. I took it out to EFGA past Saturday and wow, what a difference! It was a little hard to shoot in general since it was so cold out and had to wear gloves towards the end but despite that, I could totally see my groups were smaller than usual. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the end result, I think the kit was worth it and can't wait to keep putting rounds down range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites