Stihl chainsaw help

[302w 83]

I'm having some issues with a stihl chainsaw I inherited.

 

Runs fine and I'm using stihl bar oil. I have a new chain because the old one did not work for crap. I do not remember what type it is but I had bought it from cramers. Now it seems to burn the wood I'm cutting like crazy and it doesn't seem to cut well. The bar was upside down when I got the chainsaw and I suspect it is worn. Do I need a new bar?

[Malsua 1,422]

I'm having some issues with a stihl chainsaw I inherited.

 

Runs fine and I'm using stihl bar oil. I have a new chain because the old one did not work for crap. I do not remember what type it is but I had bought it from cramers. Now it seems to burn the wood I'm cutting like crazy and it doesn't seem to cut well. The bar was upside down when I got the chainsaw and I suspect it is worn. Do I need a new bar?

 

Are you making saw dust instead of chips when you cut?   Sounds like the chain is dull.   The only time you need a new bar is if it's bent and constantly throwing chains or the nosewheel on the bar is somehow frozen or buggered up.

[Mr.Stu 1,922]

The bar will work either way up. They recommend turning it over periodically to even out any wear. It sounthe chain is on backwards so the backs of the teeth are being used. The teeth are supposed to have the curved profile pointing away from the machine on the top of the bar and pointing towards the machine on the bottom of the bar

[T Bill 649]

If the bar has worn grooves in it, replace it. Bars are to be rotated over with every chain change to promote even wear of the bar.  Biggest mistake is not during this, make gooves in the bar. If the chain is sharp and burns in the wood, 

1. is the oiler working?  When you fill the gas tank, does the oil tank take about as much oil?  Stihls are known for oiler problems, easy to replace oiler pump that is located under the clutch/sprocket housing. 

2. Is the chain adjusted properly?  Proper chain adjustment is a fine art.  Mount the chain on the bar and the bar on the saw.  Tighten adjuster until bottom of chain just contacts the lower part of the bar.  Now pick up on the bar, you should see more chain slack.  While holding the bar up tighten the chain some more only till making contact with the bar.  Tighten the bar on the saw.

3. Is the proper chain on the saw?  Stihl offers several bar chain combos and it is easy to get a bad combo, seen it many times. Make sure proper sprocket is on saw for the chain/bar combo.

Finally, is the chain sharp or better yet sharpen correctly?  Bad mojo happpens with saw chains that are sharpened with wrong pitch or rakers not cut to proper height.

 

I have 4 Stihls (018,025,029,MS461) and have used them for the last 20 years.  Not much I have not seen.  

[Golf battery 1,223]

Sounds like you need to sharpen your chain or get a new one.

[DeerSlayer 241]

Chain is dull. Only takes one split second of the bar hitting the dirt cutting a log on the ground to kill a chain. Or you're running the chain in the wrong direction.

 

[T Bill 649]

Do you know the model number?  I'lll try to help you here, or in person if possible.

[302w 83]

Chain is new. I will get a pic.

 

Stihl model 39

 

[302w 83]

I do add oil every time I add gas. The oil is being consumed somehow.

[T Bill 649]

According to your pics, it looks like a ridge or lip on the bar. I would say the bar needs to be replaced.  It may be a new chain, but as mentioned here before, when the RPMs at full throttle are around 12-13, 000, it takes less than a fraction of a second hitting any hard object (stone, dirt, etc), to take the edge off a chain.  I've done it, pisses me off to. 

 

I would start with a new bar and proper chain for the new bar.  Important to match them up.  The chain has to match to bar, cannot say that enough.  Different pitch and size chains fit that saw as well as bar length.  You can go Stihl or aftermarket on those items.

[Malsua 1,422]

The bar has definitely seen better days but looking at that one tooth that you can see, it clearly looks notched.    If you're cutting into dirty wood, you can wreck a chain in a second or if you bounce it off the ground or a rock or something. 

 

When you said "it's a new chain", did you take it out of the package and put it on or did it come that way and you were told "it's got a new chain", in which case, it's probably a chain someone put on, used it long enough to dull the shit out of it, then put it away.

[mustang69 505]

As others have mentioned, if the wood is burning then it's a chain problem, most likely dull.  The picture shown the chain installed correctly so my bet is it needs sharpening.  Looks like there is enough meat on it to sharpen.

 

Depending on the bar length I may have a couple spares you can try - I usually have 5-6 spares at any time.  You'd be surprised how many people take chains to the dealer for sharpening and never pick them up.  I get them cheap...

[302w 83]

I went to cramers with the saw and purchased the chain there. So it definitely is "new" although I wouldn't be surprised if my dad was cutting roots with it and hit dirt or something. Last time I used it I was cutting 8" oak branches and was not making much progress.

 

Do dremel chain sharpeners work? I have one.

[Bt Doctur 188]

To sharpen the chain you need to do 2 things, use the correct size round file and lower the front tooth a touch. Sharpening lowers the cutting edge so the lip needs shortening too.

Too low on the guide lip and the chains gets very grabby and subject to kickback

[blksheep 466]

I take mine to get sharpened. I only buy Still chains when I need new ones. It's like $6 to get me done.

[T Bill 649]

You really need to maintain a proper pitch to sharpen a chain.  The rakers will need to be trimmed to maximize performance of the chain.  Hand sharpening chain in the long run really does not work.  Take it to somebody to do. I do my own but I have the table top grinder to do it. 

 

Your in for a bar at least, get it another chain, turn that one on the saw in to be sharpened and call it a day.  Remember to take some bar chain oil and lube that bar and chain before starting the saw at every chain change.  Dry chain overheats real fast, and the oiler will not get enough on there fast enough.  Chain gets hot, sags on the bar, then bad things happen.

 

Chainsaws can be the most dangerous tool in a homeowners hands. We just had a emergency here about a week ago, guy cut his leg so bad had to be airlifted out and most likely lost the leg.  Becareful my friend

[oneshot 45]

You really need to maintain a proper pitch to sharpen a chain.  The rakers will need to be trimmed to maximize performance of the chain.  Hand sharpening chain in the long run really does not work.  Take it to somebody to do. I do my own but I have the table top grinder to do it. 

 

Your in for a bar at least, get it another chain, turn that one on the saw in to be sharpened and call it a day.  Remember to take some bar chain oil and lube that bar and chain before starting the saw at every chain change.  Dry chain overheats real fast, and the oiler will not get enough on there fast enough.  Chain gets hot, sags on the bar, then bad things happen.

 

Chainsaws can be the most dangerous tool in a homeowners hands. We just had a emergency here about a week ago, guy cut his leg so bad had to be airlifted out and most likely lost the leg.  Becareful my friend

^^^^^ all of the above . every thing you needed to know he told you.

[blksheep 466]

Chainsaws and logsplitters are terrible.

[DeerSlayer 241]

My best bud from childhood is a professional tree climber. Whenever I have a dull chain I bring it to him, he sharpens them with his eye's closed better than they were new. I try it and I destroy them lol...

[blksheep 466]

My guy begged me not to sharpen them on my own lol

[DeerSlayer 241]

My guy begged me not to sharpen them on my own lol

I don't let him do any plumbing work on his house either! Best to leave the profession to the professionals...

[Golf battery 1,223]

Save your time and effort !!!!!! Buy a new chain. Doesnt work ( which i think it will). Buy a new bar.

[Oakridgefirearms 224]

You really need to maintain a proper pitch to sharpen a chain.  The rakers will need to be trimmed to maximize performance of the chain.  Hand sharpening chain in the long run really does not work.  Take it to somebody to do. I do my own but I have the table top grinder to do it. 

 

Your in for a bar at least, get it another chain, turn that one on the saw in to be sharpened and call it a day.  Remember to take some bar chain oil and lube that bar and chain before starting the saw at every chain change.  Dry chain overheats real fast, and the oiler will not get enough on there fast enough.  Chain gets hot, sags on the bar, then bad things happen.

 

Chainsaws can be the most dangerous tool in a homeowners hands. We just had a emergency here about a week ago, guy cut his leg so bad had to be airlifted out and most likely lost the leg.  Becareful my friend

Can't emphasize that enough, I know several people that have been seriously hurt with chainsaws. Hold the saw like it could kick back at any time or the chain might snap, keeping your legs and face out of harms way.

 

As others have said, your chain is dull. Buy a new one and have them sharpen your old one. Don't ever let the chain touch dirt.

[302w 83]

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it.

[ogfarmer 138]

16 years ago I was a horse logger in VT, also Competed in Collegiate timber sports in college. Chainsaws are definitely not a toy and in the blink of an eye things can be disastrous. I have seen some nasty things and death happen to well trained individuals. My coach and instructor who was a certified safety instructor from http://www.gameoflogging.com/ caught a kick back to the groin and almost bled out and lost a nut in the woods on a job. I cut my thigh when a tree I was working on that had been struck by lightning decided to shift unexpectedly. I made a stupid mistake when using my exit route and didn't hit the chain brake or drop my saw. The saw bumped my leg when decelerating and cut thru my chaps 1/16 of an inch from where my Kevlar ended. I was in the middle of buttf__k nowhere's VT and had 45 min ride to hospital in St. Johnsbury, thankfully my buddy was there to drive me. It was a nasty 1/4 " deep almost 1/4 inch wide wound full of oil, sawdust, etc.. that's a wound that's almost impossible to clean out with out some pain.

[BillC. 26]

In an six hour saturday of firewood cutting you can go through three or four chains even if you dont hit dirt or metal in the wood. If you need to have at least a dozen spare chains or your not gonna cut much. Six will be in the shop getting sharpened, the others on the saw geting dull. I cut 6-8 cords a year with an 028 Stihl

[mpflood 0]

Did you clean oil ports under cover?

Can the chain shoot oil on ground when you rev her?