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Transfer switch installation in north jersey?

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I'm thinking if buying a 7500W portable generator and would like to have it power the house through a transfer switch. How much would it cost to have it installed with the price of the switch?

 

I know nothing about wiring.

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It depends on the Transfer Switch, you could get them in 6, 8 or 10 circuits. I’ve seen the 10 circuit for $350. With a 7500 watt should have no problem getting a 10 circuit. The other option is Interlock device which would be cheaper but you don’t get the gauges unless you add them separate.  What that is you add another Main breaker in your panel next to existing Main. The new breaker back feeds your panel and the interlock device is a mechanical system that locks the Mains so only one could be on at a time.  The Interlock system makes it impossible to have the Gen Main and Utility main on at the same time. Here’s a YouTube vid I posted and others have before on the Interlock.  I installed an 8- circuit Transfer Switch for my 5500 watt gen so I don’t know how much an Electrician would charge. Anyhow I opted for the Transfer Switch over the Interlock because I wanted the gauges and IMO it was much easier to load balance. 

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

Careful here - While installing an exterior outlet is cheap and easy, using it this way is dangerous.  Forget to flip the main breaker while using the generator and it will backfeed out to the street.  It's no different than plugging the generator into your electric dryer outlet.  More convenient but still unsafe.

 

Would I do it in an emergency?  probably.  But if you're going through the trouble of having a circuit installed why not do it right?

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

 

 

Square D QO switch gear box is <$90 and fail safe.  Price is less single pole breakers but includes mains.

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

 

This is probably not the easiest way to do things but I installed a 30A exterior inlet and ran cable to four new GFCI outlets.  I guess you could call it a parallel system.  Why did I do it this way?  Because I had everything but the inlet in my shed and it addressed all of the safety issues.  There is also a 20A outlet (separate tap) on my genny and I'm contemplating using it for the furnace.  I recall someone saying they put a 20A plug on their furnace and an outlet so the furnace is basically plugged in instead of hard wired.

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

It’s not an Outlet, it is an Inlet box and you need that regardless if it being an Interlock or Transfer switch. Anyone who hardwires directly into the panel without a UL listed device to prevent back feed  is a fool.

 

There is another option which is the GenerLink here’s another Youtube on it, I don’t know anyone that has one but seen them pop up in other forums  

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I went with back-feeding my main panel via a 30amp breaker with an interlock kit. It won't allow the back-feed breaker to be turned on without first shutting off the main feed breaker. http://www.interlockkit.com/.

 

You have to have room for a double breaker in the proper place for your panel. It is much less expensive then going with a xfer switch, and you have the convenience of running your own house and managing your own load by which breakers in the panel you turn on.

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Another way to do it is a power outlet mounted outside the house which is wired to your panel on a 30 amp breaker . which when you lose power you(((( MUST)))) TURN OFF YOUR MAIN BREAKER and all of your breakers turn on your generator  turn on the 30amp breaker in your panel  the generator is now back feeding your panel  now you can turn on some breakers to give you some common lighting furnace refrigerator . , this type of set up allows you to manage your load should you need to run a/c  you need to turn off other stuff . the only draw back is is that you must remember to never to have the main breaker and 30 amp gen breaker on at the same time . we install a lot of this type when people cant afford a whole house generator and is the cheapest way also. 

 

This is what I did for out 8500 watt portable genny when we had the service upgraded to 200amps a few years ago. The 30 amp wire goes directly to the fuse box, and is wired to a circuit breaker just under and to the right of the main breaker. In order not to fry the poor bastard working on a pole a mile down the road, we installed an interlock kit. This makes it so the genny absolutely cannot be connected to the panel with the main breaker on, either one or the other is working.

 

LOVE this setup. Basically I can power the whole house, and not have to worry about flipping breakers for certain living areas at certain times of the day or night when the power goes out. When the power comes back on, I just shut off the genny, unplug the 30 amp plug, flip the genny breaker off and the main back on. Easy and simple.

 

I also believe, and any electricians can correct me, that this is code (to have an interlock switch). The inspector told me that he would not have signed off on the panel if the interlock wasn't installed. The interlock parts cost about $150.00 plus another $75 for home wire (10g orange), plug and reepticle on the side of the house. Took about 30-60 min to wire it all up and install everything. I don't have any gauges or load balancers yet, but I do have one I may install this spring in a box, right under my to do list LOL.

 

Good luck!

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It’s not an Outlet, it is an Inlet box and you need that regardless if it being an Interlock or Transfer switch. Anyone who hardwires directly into the panel without a UL listed device to prevent back feed  is a fool.

 

There is another option which is the GenerLink here’s another Youtube on it, I don’t know anyone that has one but seen them pop up in other forums  

absolutly this!  not only is it illegal but forget to turn off the main and you can kill the utility worker down the street working on the wires. I installed the Interlock because it was simple, except for the 30 amp inlet line no other wiring outside the panel is needed. Just needed to move a few breakers to make room for the dedicated genny breaker. 30 amps wont run the whole house of course but its for emergency use, my boiler for heat and hot water, the fridge and a few odd lights/outlets is all I'll need.

ETA: of course with a portable genny (vs standby) someone needs to be home to get the system up and going. If your in FL or vacation  ......But I did my entire system myself for $2000 including gen, gas/electric lines and acc's for hooking into the gen. And the permit cost too.

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It’s not an Outlet, it is an Inlet box and you need that regardless if it being an Interlock or Transfer switch. Anyone who hardwires directly into the panel without a UL listed device to prevent back feed  is a fool.

 

There is another option which is the GenerLink here’s another Youtube on it, I don’t know anyone that has one but seen them pop up in other forums  

 

Fool is pretty strong but may apply if there is ever an issue with liability.

 

Ghetto I can totally agree with.  If you can't afford a $90 QO switch box sell a gun.

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Fool is pretty strong but may apply if there is ever an issue with liability.

 

Ghetto I can totally agree with.  If you can't afford a $90 QO switch box sell a gun.

There’s no way to justify doing a non-code planned install and I highly doubt the OP is looking for that type of advice

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Are you guys pulling permits and getting approvals for the interlock plate kits?

Inspectors are ok with the kits from interlockkit.com?

Or the square d main panels only since that is factory equipped?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I had an electrician install a interlock switch with 2 inlets (one on the back of my house about 30ft from the panel and one in my garage next to my panel), 2 amp meters which show the draw on each leg..  got several estimates and it ended up costing me 2K.... very happy with the results.  PM me if you want the electricians contact info.  By the way, the reason I ended up using an electrician rather than doing it myself is that I was told by an ex-insurance investigator that doing it yourself could negate your coverage if there's a fire in the future.

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Be aware of this. Suppose you do in fact shut off your main breaker, then connect your generator to your house panel and run it. You're 'good' so far. ('m assuming you used a 240 VAC connection to your panel.)

 

Now, when power is restored, you have 240 VAC on the utility side, with 240 AC on your generator side. Depending on the phase difference, that can put 480 VAC across your main breaker that you turned off. Not all breakers are rated to withstand 480 VAC across their poles, and might short. Compromising your generator, or worse.

 

This represents an additional risk you take. Just consider it.

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http://www.interlockkit.com

 

I have one, and several people I know have them installed on their panel. Makes backfeeding the panel legal.

If you take a look at the Warranty and inspector Info on that page it says NJ has a problem (Of Coarse) with the testing. I was told by my town inspector they would only pass Interlocks manufactured by the same company that builds the main panel and are UL listed.  also your generator has to have a floating neutral if you already have a neutral to ground bond in the main panel. The Honda EU, EM, and EG's all come from the factory with floating neutrals and are good for home backup. Only the Honda construction series the EB has a bonded neutral. 

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