chainsaws

[tuktuk 16]

i know nothing about chainsaws but probably gotta get one >>> 20' or 24' .

What brand , specs I should be looking at ?

Thank you !

 

PS it's for cutting large trees into smaller pieces

[DeerSlayer 241]

Stihl or Husqvarna! There are no other brands that matter.

BTW 24" bar is pretty big for a homeowner saw, what the heck you cutting?

 

[checko 180]

How large is large?

 

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[leadunderpressure 52]

You want something that can power a 24 inch bar.

You may want a smaller bar as well for the branches and bucking work.

 

Example would be a Stihl 360 series.

 

Buy more than one chain so you don't do dumb things like try and cut with a dull chain. Swap it out and continue with the sharp chain.

 

Have a couple and rotate. You can then have a couple at the sharpening shop while you still have a working one.

 

 

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[Golf battery 1,223]

If you can afford it. Husky 372. Best saw in my fleet. Not Home depot husky crap but husquarvana. About 700$ or something. I got a few. Dont buy shit quality !!!!!! Youll buy it twice.

[tuktuk 16]

Holy Mosses >>> $700 ?!!! how about in $400 range ? anything good ?

[checko 180]

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-50-2cc-2-Cycle-20-in-Gas-Chainsaw/3725410?http://m.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-50-2cc-2-Cycle-20-in-Gas-Chainsaw/3725410=

 

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[DeerSlayer 241]

Holy Mosses >>> $700 ?!!! how about in $400 range ? anything good ?

You can probably find a used saw in that price range. Buy once cry once.

[ogfarmer 138]

I may be selling a Husqvarna saw, I believe its farmer/Rancher model or something similar. I will check it out tomorrow when I am out at barn.

[Malsua 1,422]

I cut anywhere from 4 to 8 cords a year.   Most trees are 30 inches or less.

 

I have had a number of saws.  Do not buy any saw that isn't a Husqvarna or Stihl.

 

In your price range, I'd buy the Husqvarna 450 with an 18 inch bar.   It is the best home owner saw I've used.  It has the best power to weight ratio in that class of saw.  The 460 is a lot heavier with only a slight bump in power and the 445 is the same weight but less powerful.  The 450 will cost around $380 out the door.

 

You really don't need a bar bigger than that unless you're doing super big trees.  You can get a 20" bar with the 450.    A great dealer is Bassani power equipment on 23 in Hamburg.  He has every saw from Stihl and Husqvarna to handle and the guys are great to work with and treat you like a customer, not a problem.  There may be something closer to you but Bassani is only probably 20 minutes past Canistear on 23.

 

I recently sold my Stihl MS290 which is slightly more powerful than my Husky 450, but it weighed about a pound and a half more than the 450.  Stihs also have a slightly slower chain.   You don't realize the difference until you cut one then with the other.  It doesn't sound like much but if you cut for hours at a time, slinging that extra pound+ around makes a difference.

 

Do not buy the saw at Lowes.   Buy it from a dealer who will tune it before it leaves his shop.

[T Bill 649]

Weekend warrior with a large bar and powerful motor is a recipe for disaster.  I have acres of woods and five saws that each have their own purpose.Tired arms and legs and an oversized saw is dangerous, ask me, I know. Get a set of chaps, good gloves, helmet/face shield, and use hearing protection. Without it is like riding a motorcycle down Route 80 in a tee shirt and shorts with flip flops. BAD JUJU HAPPENS FASTER THAN YOU THINK. I AM NOT TRYING TO SCARE YOU: JUST WANT YOU TO BE SAFE.
 
Now that said, how often will you use this saw?  I like Stihls, Huskys are OK too, nothing else is worth your money. If this is for under 50 days a year then the Stihl ranch models will do fine. Under 25 days then homeowner. Pro series are by far the best, and price reflects this. Last saw I got was a Stihl MS460 with 25 and 32 inch bars at just over $1100.00.
 
Bucking can be a tricky deal. You'll need extra chains, wedges at a minimum. Get that saw stuck in the log and your done. Happens all the time. Just touch the ground, you'll need to put a new chain on. Bigger saws mean bigger problems.
 
For chains, bars, parts that wear and need replacing and such, www.cutterschoice.com. Laser chain works great. How will you sharpen that chain? Lots to think about. Why did I choose Sthil? Mostly because dealers are plentiful. Need that special part yesterday? Plenty of dealers around to shop from.
 
Now down to the bottom line. If you fit into the ranch series I would get a MS291 20" ($510.00), to stay more in line with your budget a MS271. I have an older MS290 with a 20" bar and chisel chain that works very well.
If you want PM me will talk.

http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Comparison-Chart.pdf

[Worn_Holster 2]

I have a Stihl 066 with a 36" bar, and a Stihl MS260 Pro with an 18" bar. Both have ported mufflers which allows me to run at higher rpm's with a 40:1 mix. I use a rat tail file to put a few licks on each chain link daily when I am done or if they start to dull. Always use gloves when sharpening. I also always use chaps and a Stihl combo hard hat/face shield/ear muffs. A chain saw will rip through soft tissue faster than you can possibly imagine, and is likely the most dangerous power tool that you can use. Always keep yourself out of line with the spinning chain! Always 2 hands on the saw and never hold the saw over your head.
I bought both of my saws used and they will last me a lifetime.

[Malsua 1,422]

I agree with what Tbill posted.  

 

I will say a few things, experience will tell you when you're about to pinch your saw but if you're new or relatively new, it's going to get stuck so you'll need a plan.  Even with experience it can still happen.  When I've got an unavoidable pinch spot, I'll cut mostly through and then cut a wedge in to make a big slot.  That log ends up ugly but you won't spend the next 20 minutes getting your saw unstuck. 

 

As for sharpening, it is very helpful if you have someone show you how to do it.  I used to work for a logging company and the Amish guys would cut the trees and I'd do much of the limbing and bucking.   They would touch up their blades by hand after each tree and I learned to do it that way.   That said, I bought a little device from Husqvarna that lays on the chain, it helps you hold the proper angle and file the proper amount off the rakers.

 

I'll also add, that after years and years of cutting firewood, I think 18" is just right for me.  You want the shortest bar that will do the job.

[tuktuk 16]

thank you Gens!! you provided me with great info.

basically i want to buy chainsaw as a gift to my cousin . He got 10acres in PA and there are some trees that we want to clear. We actually took some trees down using axes but now to cut them to smaller pieces is such a pain

I asked him what chainsaw would do the job and he said 20-24 but I think he is overcompensating

it's defiantly not gonna get used that much since he works in NYC and goes there only on weekends. so I would guess 25 days and under ...

[T Bill 649]

Recommendation from me would be Stihl MS291, 20"bar, Stihl's green safety chain. 

[tuktuk 16]

Recommendation from me would be Stihl MS291, 20"bar, Stihl's green safety chain.

 

found dealer for both brands in Garfield . Will stop by there tomorrow .

Thank you for recommendation !

[son of sam 9]

I would be concerned about you felling anything that requires a 24" blade if this is your first chainsaw. I have dropped more than a few trees and they usually go where (approx) I want, but once in a while they surprise you. With a 4" tree not such a big deal. With a 20"+ tree thats major.

BTW- I have a Husquvarna Rancher 450 with a 18" blade. So far its been a great saw and I expect it to last a long time for home use and cutting firewood. Dont know if that model would hold up well for a pro, think its more geared and priced to homeowner level.

[Malsua 1,422]

I would be concerned about you felling anything that requires a 24" blade if this is your first chainsaw. I have dropped more than a few trees and they usually go where (approx) I want, but once in a while they surprise you. With a 4" tree not such a big deal. With a 20"+ tree thats major.

BTW- I have a Husquvarna Rancher 450 with a 18" blade. So far its been a great saw and I expect it to last a long time for home use and cutting firewood. Dont know if that model would hold up well for a pro, think its more geared and priced to homeowner level.

 

I've had my Husky 450 for 3 years now and I've not had the least bit of trouble with it.    It still starts just like it did when it was new and I've cut a bunch of wood with it.  

[tuktuk 16]

Recommendation from me would be Stihl MS291, 20"bar, Stihl's green safety chain.

the guy also said to get Stihl but recommended MS271.

$420 that's in my budget range too. What do u think ?

[tuktuk 16]

I would be concerned about you felling anything that requires a 24" blade if this is your first chainsaw. I have dropped more than a few trees and they usually go where (approx) I want, but once in a while they surprise you. With a 4" tree not such a big deal. With a 20"+ tree thats major.

BTW- I have a Husquvarna Rancher 450 with a 18" blade. So far its been a great saw and I expect it to last a long time for home use and cutting firewood. Dont know if that model would hold up well for a pro, think its more geared and priced to homeowner level.

copy that. When I actually saw 24" blade I am happy with 20"

Going with Stihl since the parts are readily available and dealers are plenty.

[Malsua 1,422]

the guy also said to get Stihl but recommended MS271.

$420 that's in my budget range too. What do u think ?

 

The 271 will run a 20" chain but it's sweet spot is more of an 18" chain.   Unless you were used to a 291 you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

[ogfarmer 138]

Back in late 90's I was doing horse logging in North East Kingdom of Vermont while in school and little afterwards. Drove a team of Belgium Draft horses into some hairy terrain. Felled some big trees, some old growth. Chainsaws are not toys and the forces at play can be devastating. I knew quite a few professional loggers who were seriously hurt or killed on the job. Kickbacks are no joke and stopping them is impossible when they happen. My instructor had caught a kickback in the groan while working limbing some trees and almost bled out in the woods and lost a testicle. Another guy i know lost a arm when he was cutting a limb above his head and tip of blade hit something and saw kick backed and came down onto of his shoulder.  I was trained by Soren Eriksson in the Game of Logging. I loved timber sports at the time and competed in timber sports in college. Myself and another classmate beat out other competitors from other schools to go to Collegiate Finals and represent our school and Vermont.  We got sponsored by Husqvarna for the Collegiate Nationals in Ohio, and I placed 15th out of 60 finalists in Nation, I think it was 1998 or 1999.

 

I always wore all my safety gear, Helmet, face shield, Kevlar boots, chainsaw resistant shirt, and my pants that had built in Kevlar chaps. But one afternoon while doing a job for a friend after a northeaster came thru I was trying to release a tree that had been struck by lightning and was a twisted mess. As I was slowly releasing tension the tree decided to move unexpectedly and I jumped back to move to evacuate thru my planned exit route. Instead of dropping my saw as I was taught I instead panicked and swung back as it was decelerating and it hit my thigh 1/8th of inch above where my Kevlar ended and cut thru and into my leg. I now had a 2-3" long cut 1/4" wide and 1/4-1/2" deep filled with oil, sawdust, and crap. Nearest hospital was in St. Johnsbury, hour away and off we went. Nastiest cut I ever seen and painful. cleaning out was the worst. they used some gel that turned to a foam and it filled the wound cavity. Taught me to respect the saw more after that.

Proper training and understanding of the saw and how to fell trees is important. I always cringe when I see people doing home jobs or buying saws in Homedepot or Lowes. And pray they dont get hurt.

[T Bill 649]

OG, I too could confer with the pain and stupidity of chainsaw accidents.  I have nicked both my legs just above the knee in the soft tissue.  One should have been stitched by I used butterfly closures and somehow avoided an infection.  Today, I am a lot more careful and anal retentive when we (me and my boys) start sawing operations. 
 
TUKTUK Get the MS271 with 18 bar and semi chisel chain.  Buy a six pack of silver oil mix too, promotion may still be on that doubles warranty.  Check with dealer.
You will be using an 18" 74 drive link, .325 pitch .063 gauge chain on that saw. $13 apiece at Cutters choice (13X74 model number). Watch your bar and chain lube Stihl does not like the heavy types.  I used Stihl and Walmart with great success, now using AMSOIL cause I have an in. Hates Husky chain lube.

http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/STIHL-Saw-Chain-Selection-Identification.pdf

[Golf battery 1,223]

Get a chain with anti kickback It cuts faster through bone or wood. Hey. If your stupid. Youre gonna get knicked. Even if youre not stupid you might get knicked. No biggie. Just dont be stupid.

[tuktuk 16]

wow Gens. Of course as with firearms safety protocols must be followed.

Some ppl were talking about some promotion till the end of June . Something like if u buy ms271 u get free chain ...

anybody knows anything about it ? Can u pls post a link to the ad

[T Bill 649]

The promo is Stihl dealer days and it usually ends in May. Noting to get excited about as what is offered is different by region. North east usually offers squat. Almost all dealers sell at or near MSRP around here. Not much competition. I use Mayberrys in Port Murray, and Montague Tool in Branchville, both have large selections of equipment.

[captblue1 9]

I started burning wood last year.  I cut and split about 6 cords.  I used to use a Poulan Pro 20inch.  I picked up a Jonsered 2255 last fall.  It is the same as the Husqvarna 455.  Much better. 

[tuktuk 16]

Thank you Gens for all of ur help !!!

We will make u proud

 

[T Bill 649]

Good Luck and be SAFE!  If the unit seems underpowered take it back to the dealer for carb adjustment.  Sometimes they need a little fine tuning after a couple of tank fulls.  Should be a no charge adjustment.  Don't wait for the oiler to do it's job on newly mounted dry chains. Give it a little help, oil the bar and chain before starting the saw, helps save bar wear.