carl_g 568 Posted September 10, 2015 Yeah I bought their mounting system and will probably get the low primer warning piece and also the lighting system unless some can recommend a flashlight that will fit in the center hole? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krdshrk 3,872 Posted September 10, 2015 I have their roller lever but haven't managed to put it on yet, as I can't get the nut to budge on the existing The dual bullet tray is great though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 10, 2015 Does anyone have the diameter of the middle hole? I'd like to see if I can pick up a small flashlight and make it fit. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 10, 2015 Does anyone have the diameter of the middle hole? I'd like to see if I can pick up a small flashlight and make it fit. Thanks. I'll measure it when I get home for u. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heavyopp 167 Posted September 10, 2015 Does anyone have the diameter of the middle hole? I'd like to see if I can pick up a small flashlight and make it fit. Thanks. .810 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 10, 2015 .810Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PeteF 1,044 Posted September 10, 2015 I just ordered a lock n load AP. Got a bunch of shellplates, die bushings, some rcbs powder expanders for 9mm and 45acp. I also got the inline fabrication tall strong mount.. can't wait! When you get it, take your time setting it up. Watch the step by step video. Make sure to clean ALL of the rust inhibitor off of all surfaces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 11, 2015 When you get it, take your time setting it up. Watch the step by step video. Make sure to clean ALL of the rust inhibitor off of all surfaces. afterwards I spray everything down with hornady one shot cleaner dry lube. The only part that doesn't get treated is the powder drop.I had a lot of surface rust forming prior. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 11, 2015 I ordered the light kit from inline fabrication today..it was only $38. It looks like a solid solution vs trying to come up with something on my own. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyS. 12 Posted September 12, 2015 I picked up an "Eagle Eye" 12V LED off Ebay for $15 shipped (actually it was for 2) and used a wallwart I had laying around. It's a perfect fit. A big washer and a bit of hot melt glue to hold it in the center hole of the LnL toolhead and it's been working perfectly ever since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 20, 2015 I am all set up and ready to roll with this press but I have noticed one thing and want to ask if this is normal or not.. The press is now configured for 380 Auto. I am using the tall pistol bushing inside the powder drop. After adjusting the powder drop to move in its full range of motion( up and down) I am noticing that with no shell, the powder drop is making contact with the shell plate and causing the powder drop to raise very slightly.. Is this normal for shorter pistol cases? It doesnt appear to be enough to drop any powder but I wasn't expecting to see any movement with no brass in the shell plate. I realize that while running this that the scenario is not likely to happen as there will be brass in there the whole time except for initially starting and finishing of a run. Please let me know if this is normal or not and if it needs to be adjusted , how should I go about that? Thanks, Carl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heavyopp 167 Posted September 20, 2015 Ignore it Carl -- That little movement is insignificant -- It has to go at least 3/4 of the way to drop any powder Mines set up for .223 right now so there's absolutely no contact with the shell plate I'm fairly certain that when I set up for pistol I get a little contact and movement in the powder measure too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 20, 2015 Ignore it Carl -- That little movement is insignificant -- It has to go at least 3/4 of the way to drop any powder Mines set up for .223 right now so there's absolutely no contact with the shell plate I'm fairly certain that when I set up for pistol I get a little contact and movement in the powder measure too. Cool thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heavyopp 167 Posted September 21, 2015 I should have said this last night but keep in mind that every time you "bump" that powder measure you pack powder down into the measuring cavity Not an issue but be sure to dump that load of powder that keeps getting packed down before you actually charge a case -- Just dump it back in the measure once you're ready to load ammo I do this whenever I start reloading for the night -- Dump the 1st 3 loads from the measure then load as normal -- I'll weigh the 4th drop and a few after that but they usually comply with what I want by then Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 25, 2015 So my first session I would call a success although it was a little more complicated at first than I anticipated to be honest.. After a while I started to figure it out.. I would say the last 40-50 rounds went fairly smooth. Overall I am pretty impressed except for one small issue that I was having.. At first the press would not fully index like either the shell plate was too tight or something because the rotation would come up just short randomly and I would find when I went to prime the case it wasn't completely indexed. I had to give it a little help for the ball to set into the detent. I went back and greased the two ball bearings on the bottom of the shell plate and that seemed to help a little bit but it is still not perfect..maybe since I was going slow, I caused it? Any ideas on how this might be cured? Maybe it just needs to break in a little? EDIT: I found this video on YouTube. And it is the exact thing that I was experiencing.. According to most of the comments, I need to adjust the left prawl a little.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyS. 12 Posted September 25, 2015 That's what I would suggest, Carl. Adjust the left pawl and also ensure you have everything lubed up good. I use Super Lube grease in all the fittings and Hornady One Shot dry lube for the shell plate and anywhere else that calls for lube. I also recommend you watch Bill Morgan's Youtube vids on Hornady setup and maintenance. Good stuff! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 25, 2015 That's what I would suggest, Carl. Adjust the left pawl and also ensure you have everything lubed up good. I use Super Lube grease in all the fittings and Hornady One Shot dry lube for the shell plate and anywhere else that calls for lube. I also recommend you watch Youtube vids on Hornady setup and maintenance. Good stuff!Yes thanks! I did watch all of his videos and learned a bunch from them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 26, 2015 Adjusted the left prawl maybe 1/8th of a turn and ran another 100 rounds.. It seems to have fixed it, Not one hiccup!! So I am happy If it works as well with 9mm & 45 ACP, I will be psyched! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heavyopp 167 Posted September 26, 2015 You'll find 9mm will stick a little the dies -- It's a tapered case I will lube them very slightly to get them to run smooth -- Spray a quick shot of one shot lube in a plastic bag -- add a couple handfuls of cases and shake around Load as normal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 26, 2015 You'll find 9mm will stick a little the dies -- It's a tapered case I will lube them very slightly to get them to run smooth -- Spray a quick shot of one shot lube in a plastic bag -- add a couple handfuls of cases and shake around Load as normal I lube the case for the first 500 rounds of any caliber. It breaks in the dies very well. After that the stait wall cases go very smoothly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 27, 2015 I am going to try and use my Lee carbide dies and see how they work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted September 27, 2015 Just a note on using the Hornady Dry Lube spray as a spray down for the press and parts... I used to do the same thing but I learned that it doesn't really protect the metal well , as in formation of surface rust. I'm in the unfortunate position of having the press in the garage, so its exposed to exterior temps and humidity. Not optimal, but I have to do what I have to do. I've switched to using Eezox as a cleaner/lube for the press and parts. It works great on the internal die parts. It doesn't leave behind any sticky residue and offers great protection against rust and corrosion. The carrier is a solvent, trichloroethylene, it's potent one at that so watch the fumes and glove up. It's a probable carcinogen and it will give you a case of dry skin in no time flat. All the bad has some good...the solvent makes it great as a cleaner in the wet-phase. Once it evaporates, it leaves behind the active components. It's not a great lube, but leaves a great foundation to add a wet lube or grease to in areas that need it. If I'm using the press a lot, and just a general wipe down/clean up, I'll use Ballistol in between Eezox treatments. Its decent at corrosion protection just by itself. It works great as a general wipe/wet lube for light duty areas of the press. The added bonus is that is good for the skin and non toxic. Big pluses when you have your hands all over the equipment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 27, 2015 It certainly doesnt offer protection like an oil based product would or any "wet" lube. But its worked very well in my basement, its roughly 70% humidity at worst. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 29, 2015 I set up for 9mm and ran 100 rounds. All seemed to go OK except I am seeing +or- .004 with the OAL. Is this an acceptable variance range? I am using range pick up brass with mixed head stamps and xtreme plated 124 gr FPs. I can't remember how much variance I was getting using my Lee classic turret. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 29, 2015 I set up for 9mm and ran 100 rounds. All seemed to go OK except I am seeing +or- .004 with the OAL. Is this an acceptable variance range? I am using range pick up brass with mixed head stamps and xtreme plated 124 gr FPs. I can't remember how much variance I was getting using my Lee classic turret. that's fine. Mine are always at 1.133-1.137 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 29, 2015 Cool! Thanks. I have also read that while setting OAL you need to have a case in every shell plate location. Is this standard operating procedure on a progressive press? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,894 Posted September 30, 2015 Im not sure on all of them, but on the LNL if you run one case through there is about a .004 change in COAL. You will seat deeper with a full shell plate compared to a single run. Im going to assume the crimp will probably be slightly tighter with a full plate as well in comparison. I dont crimp much and in a second stage so mileage may vary on that one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites