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stevenschaffer

Ar15 build double check.

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First ar15 build .. Here's what I have so far for the plans..spikes tactical enhance lower . Magpul ctr stock, moe grips, Troy Trx 13" rail, Troy squid grips, Troy battle sights, sling, bcm bolt, bcm charging handle, rock river 14.5" barrel pinned to 16 with precision armament Compensator.. I need a stripped upper brand . What else am I missing?? . My friend has the tools. I do not need red dots or flashlights ..

 

The price so far is about $1440 seems a little high for a build but it's everything I like..

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The price does seem high but premium components will add up fast.  Personally I would not pay that much because precision parts would be wasted on me.   That and I'm a penny pincher.  I think you could do better on the price of many of the components. I've used Anderson lowers, bargain basement mfg and they are working well.

 

As for an upper, I think an Aero or BCM upper would suit your needs.  You can get an assembled upper for about $90.00.  Or, you can take a chance on a blem upper but sometimes it dos not work out.  I bought a Palmetto striped blem upper (non returnable) that looked fine until I mounted the barrel.  The upper is out of spec, too wide in the barrel receiver.

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Yeah I am trying to save money but keeping it a decent rifle. I pick a new lower. Special ops tactical which is $100 less then spikes.. The muzzle brake I cut the price in half .. $90 was a lot for a muzzle break.. The sights and rail I will be looking on eBay and hopefully get them slightly used.. Ebay will be my friend in this build .. Lol

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I have a strange notion about AR builds, and I understand if people disagree with me. For me, in order of importance:

 

1) barrel first. Without it, nothing else matters

2) sighting system, because other wise whats the point?

3) Trigger, because that's the only part you really move when the gun fires.

4) Upper because it connects the barrel to the sights  (hint, buy a JP one, I've learned that after trying a few)

5) Recoil control, which starts at the muzzle break, moves back through the gas block, BCG, and recoil system. There are different approaches here, pick the one you like.

6) Free float handguard, whatever you like as long as it is free floated. I have preferences, but they are mine

7) Everything else, as longs as it is in spec have fun with it.

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I have a strange notion about AR builds, and I understand if people disagree with me. For me, in order of importance:

 

1) barrel first. Without it, nothing else matters

2) sighting system, because other wise whats the point?

3) Trigger, because that's the only part you really move when the gun fires.

4) Upper because it connects the barrel to the sights (hint, buy a JP one, I've learned that after trying a few)

5) Recoil control, which starts at the muzzle break, moves back through the gas block, BCG, and recoil system. There are different approaches here, pick the one you like.

6) Free float handguard, whatever you like as long as it is free floated. I have preferences, but they are mine

7) Everything else, as longs as it is in spec have fun with it.

That's actually a very good way of looking at it I think. Do you think there is a major difference between forged and billet uppers

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Do you think there is a major difference between forged and billet uppers

 

I don't think so. Here is the thing, a forged lower is just as strong as a billet one, but it is much harder to make in small numbers. If you are a small company that wants to make an upper (or lower) that is slightly different then the milspec (or a lot different) you can't afford custom forgings, but you can afford to buy some billet and a have a CNC machine cut it in the shape you want. It is still more expensive then a standard forging, but not as expensive as having your custom shape made into a forging.

 

At the end of the day, both are finished with the same CNC machines so finished dimensions can be awesome or crap regardless. I've seen forged ones made crappy and I've seen billet ones machined out of spec, some expensive ones too.  Eventually I found that the JP forged ones were the best bang for the buck. Yes, they are expensive at around $180 but in my opinion worth it.

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Could you break down the parts and their prices to see where that $1440 is going? What's this AR being used for exactly?

Also have you factored shipping if you are sourcing from all over?

 

I'm just looking all over here's what I have .. The lower is specialopstactical- from website 366 with out shipping

Ctr stock comes with lower

 

Rail from eBay figure 150

Muzzle break figure 40

Troy sights about 100 used off eBay

Troy squid grips are about 22 ebay

Bcm bolt website I think it was 170

Bcm charging handle will get off eBay

The upper I did not find a brand.. Figured around 100-150

14.5 barrel rock river. 250

So when I'm done I'm looking to be around 1,300

More parts might be more with shipping but I will also try to get better deals

This will be around Christmas so I have time to look and possibly sales..

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I'm just looking all over here's what I have .. The lower is specialopstactical- from website 366 with out shipping

Ctr stock comes with lower

 

I've never used that site before but for $366 w/o shipping and no specific name brand for the lower and parts kit other than "mil-spec" I'd say that's a bit pricey. Also I would think you would want to build your lower from scratch to get a better idea how it all works.

Not saying one brand is better than another but if you got it all as separate pieces and using some name brand components I think you could still beat that price of $366. 

 

Palmetto has a bunch of blem ones as well as first quality for less.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lowers.html?p=1

 

Or the ODG version of what you were looking for @ $199.99

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lowers/psa-ar-15-complete-lower-magpul-ctr-edition-odg-no-magazine.html

 

I've used their blem lowers and could not find anything wrong with it. Besides after one day at the range it will all be the same. I've also used their complete uppers and and had no issues with any of them neither. Either way I think if you have the patience to build it you can do better for less $$. 

 

I've sourced from Palmetto State Armory, Brownells, Midway USA, AIM Surplus, Primary Arms. 

Catch them all on Holiday sales and make it your winter 2015/2016 project. You got Thanksgiving, Black Friday, Christmas and New Years plenty of opportunities to grab some good deals. 

 

Just my two cent, but the objective is to save as much $$$ as possible and also getting the parts you want so I understand.

 

 

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All of my builds started with a stripped lower, then waited for a sale on a specific LPK, then the barrel, then whatever parts as they went on sale.  Almost every time I ordered parts, I also ordered ammo if it was on sale or a decent price. I hate paying S&H on ammo alone.

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Just a few things after reading the list. BCM BCG unecessary IMHO. Plenty of deals on m16 bcg's for 80+ dollars. However, I LOVE the BCM chargin handles. Also, you can find a stripped upper for $50-60 and an upper with parts installed for 70-80.

 

I have used some rails from ebay before, they work fine and some of the free floats are a great value, especially the 15" if you arnt looking for s fancy $300 rail.

 

If you are looking to spend extra money on a trigger but want to keep it under $150. There have been some triggers circulating with 3 lb pulls. They are very crisp and I have one on my LR308 and Ar-15 builds. They are sol by velocity tirggers and a number of other companies for $135. if you are looking for a more expensive trigger try Timney, there are others that some of the other members can tell you about.

Indeed be careful with the ebay sights, there are tons of knock offs. You are better served purchasing your iron sights from somewhere like primaryarms.com or BCM, Ranier, ect.

 

edit: slickguns.com is your friend

 

Bear creek stipped upper on sale for $35

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I check head space all the time. Takes two minutes on an uninstalled barrel and less than five minutes on an installed barrel.  Worth it to me. In fact I carry a no go gauge with a extractor cut in my range bag just for a quick check if needed.

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Head space should be checked with the bolt you are using to be sure that it is proper. Never Assume that Milspec is Milspec, 5.56MM is 60,000CUP, imagine that detonated incorrectly a mere few inches from your nose. :)

 

I cannot hurt to check it, you may not have a problem 1 in a 1,000 builds or 10,000......do *you* want to be 10,001? Check it, to be sure and have confidence that it is correct.

 

This is a 50cal going boom:

 

 

AK goes boom:

 

 

 

M1 goes boom:

 

https://youtu.be/fLk5ykGPDsU

 

 

I think you get the point.....don't screw around........

If this was just head space issue wouldn't it happen immediately?

Could there be other variables in play here that was not included?

Just saying......

I will look at these videos tonight more closely.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Only ar15 for a while.. And shooting in my backyard for fun. 50yArds at most . I just want one to have in my collection.

So based on your own statement maybe build a base line AR and then slowly upgrade as needed. Make sure the barrel can take 5.56 so it's backwards compatible w/ .223 and I assume it's going to be DI over piston?

I think you can build a very decent AR for less than $700. Save the other $700. For the second build. You will get a better idea after you build your first one.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I check head space all the time. Takes two minutes on an uninstalled barrel and less than five minutes on an installed barrel.  Worth it to me. In fact I carry a no go gauge with a extractor cut in my range bag just for a quick check if needed.

 

Has it ever failed, assuming not ebay parts?

 

I have yet to hear of anyone having a failed headspace check on an AR platform with even half decent parts. 

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The only time I check headspace is if I am installing a new bolt or bolt carrier group into a used upper.

 

I always check, but I have never gotten a no-go...

 

I don't check on a new build, but I use quality parts that I know have good QC.

 

If I used a BCG I bought from Uncle Cheech's Tactical Warehouse on EBay and were mating it with some kind of "Death Dealer LLC" barrel I picked up at a gunshow, would probably check headspace.

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We are not really debating, I have no problem with people checking headspace, its just that the AR design has its head space pretty much set when the barrel extension is installed. There is pretty much nothing the home gunsmith can do about it. There are huge mega threads on other forums about this issue, and I have yet to hear of a case where this was issue outside $50 specials barrels that no on in their right mind should trust, or combining USED barrel with USED bolts. I don't think I've even heard of a case new/old or old/new failing.

 

By all means, if you feel better doing it, it can't hurt, but I'm not sure it is the right thing to do on modular designs like the AR where the bolt "floats" and the barrel is headspaced to the extension. The AR design is quite different then bolt guns or other semiautomatics when it comes to this.

 

Complete monkeys on arfcom manage to not blow themselves up, and personally I don't think experience is inconsequential, at some point believing in things that have never happened become religion.

 

But again, check away, nothing WRONG with it.

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Has it ever failed, assuming not ebay parts?

 

I have yet to hear of anyone having a failed headspace check on an AR platform with even half decent parts. 

No, no failures to pass muster, but I like my appendages where God put them.  It only takes one time and I'm not that lucky.

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