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Mowen da lawn

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23 hours ago, gleninjersey said:

Some areas where I patched taking very well.  One large area is doing absolutely nothing.  It's in direct sunlight and I didn't keep moist enough.  I'll be reseeding that area soon.

Put down Vigoro Weed and Feed a little while ago.  There was a quick shower which wet the lawn.  The weeds need to be wet before you apply so the granules stick to them.  Hopefully it's done raining for the day.  Lawn should green up in by end of week and hopefully kill some of the weeds that sprouted up.

I'm a pump sprayer at trouble spots. My research has led me this direction.

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1 hour ago, gleninjersey said:

Time to start thinking about fall seeding.  Looks like a good week to buy some seed and put it down.  Highs only in high 70s to low 80s entire week.  If temps stay in this range it's perfect weather to grow grass.

This is the week to do it. But honestly, we seed right up until October.  Ya gotta put it down now but all the real magic happens in Spring.  Unless you use a slicer or an overseeder, you are basically just feeding birds.

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6 hours ago, gleninjersey said:

Time to start thinking about fall seeding.  Looks like a good week to buy some seed and put it down.  Highs only in high 70s to low 80s entire week.  If temps stay in this range it's perfect weather to grow grass.

Gonna start this weekend when I get back from my business trip.

5 hours ago, Scorpio64 said:

This is the week to do it. But honestly, we seed right up until October.  Ya gotta put it down now but all the real magic happens in Spring.  Unless you use a slicer or an overseeder, you are basically just feeding birds.

Slicer?  Overseeder?  What?

 

I'm going to aerate the lawn then re-seed and fertilize...

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1 hour ago, Krdshrk said:

Gonna start this weekend when I get back from my business trip.

Slicer?  Overseeder?  What?

 

I'm going to aerate the lawn then re-seed and fertilize...

If you mean a spike aerator, they are virtually worthless.  A core aerator is marginally more effective when seeding but keep in mind, aeration of any kind is not intended for the benefit of seeding.  Core aeration is to "loosen" compacted soil.  As the holes cave in on themselves, the surrounding soil becomes less compacted.  You only need to do this on high foot traffic areas, like on a golf course or soccer field.  The only other time we haul out the core aerator is new construction where the soil has been compacted by heavy equipment.

 

A slicer is like a dethatcher, except the blades are fixed and slice grooves into the soil.We use them a lot when seeding.  You go over the area to be seeded twice.  Once at a right angle to either the street or side yard, then again at an oblique angle, usually corner to corner.  Spread the seed with a spreader, and then go over it again with the slicer just for good measure.

 

An overseeder is sorta like a slicer except it weighs about a thousand pounds (over exaggerating) It is the cadillac of seeding methods.  It slices the ground and behind the slicing blades are concave harrows that the seed is dropped into and literally planted into the groves.  Pros who do a lot of seeding use overseeders because you only use about a 1/3rd of the seed, and good seed is like, really expensive dude.

 

If I was you, I'd rent a slicer for the day.  You will get much MUCH better results.  Remember, DO NOT LET THE WEE SEEDLINGS DRY OUT.  Keep the area wet at all times.  If you don't have in-ground irrigation, you can buy a programmable timer or two at HD or lowes and have it go on for 5 or 10 minutes every half hour.

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12 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

 The only other time we haul out the core aerator is new construction where the soil has been compacted by heavy equipment.

That's exactly what my lawn is.  New construction.  It's been compacted by equipment and I need to loosen it and add seed.

I'll look into a slicer rental... I already have bare ground so I'm not sure if that's 100% needed.  

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59 minutes ago, Krdshrk said:

That's exactly what my lawn is.  New construction.  It's been compacted by equipment and I need to loosen it and add seed.

I'll look into a slicer rental... I already have bare ground so I'm not sure if that's 100% needed.  

In that case, you need to core aerate and slice.  If you put the seed on top of the soil, the first heavy rainfall will just wash it away.  You will have fantastically thick grass at the silt barrier though.  If you aerate only, some seed may fall into the holes but you won't get nearly the percentage of germination you would using both machines.

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2 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

In that case, you need to core aerate and slice.  If you put the seed on top of the soil, the first heavy rainfall will just wash it away.  You will have fantastically thick grass at the silt barrier though.  If you aerate only, some seed may fall into the holes but you won't get nearly the percentage of germination you would using both machines.

Dude knows..... I don't even know where to rent a slice er

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1 hour ago, Zeke said:

Ya, the aerator de thatcher I've done.

ok, I'm calling now. But you say wait till spring for seed? K. Will do

No, you silly wabbit.  Aerate if needed, slice, seed and slice some more. Water.  You will get some grass to come up this fall, but in the spring time it will explode.  I always give my customers a money back guarantee.  Not one has taken me up on that. Ever.

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Just now, Scorpio64 said:

Take my advice, don't take my advice.  It's your time, money and sweat.  I've been restoring and establishing new lawns for over 20 years.

Depot has it @Krdshrk

calling it an overseeder

 

@Scorpio64 I'll take your advisement 

Just now, Scorpio64 said:

No, you silly wabbit.  Aerate if needed, slice, seed and slice some more. Water.  You will get some grass to come up this fall, but in the spring time it will explode.  I always give my customers a money back guarantee.  Not one has taken me up on that. Ever.

Did he jus call me a wabbit?

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I have a new construction home (Built three years ago) and had nothing but weeds. Rented a Hydraulic Tiller and turned over the whole front yard. Had the soil tested and ended up adding a bunch of claybreaker (I live on the hill in Atl. Highlands. Soil is super hard clay), nitrogen and other stuff to get the PH right last October, then seeded.

We put more seed down this spring with a regular spreader. We saw a tremendous positive change in the lawn. Verry few weeds. Lots of nice soft grass and clover - I actually like the clover in my lawn.

We had the soil tested again and the PH is right where it needs to be.

We are getting ready to seed again for the Fall and trying to determine if we need a giant overspreader like you posted, a smaller one like I linked to, or maybe just a spreader again. 

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1 hour ago, High Exposure said:

I have a new construction home (Built three years ago) and had nothing but weeds. Rented a Hydraulic Tiller and turned over the whole front yard. Had the soil tested and ended up adding a bunch of claybreaker (live on the hill in Atl. Highlands) nitrogen and other stuff to get the PH right last October, then seeded.

We put more seed down this spring with a regular spreader. We saw a tremendous positive change in the lawn. 

Had the soil tested again and the PH is almost where it needs to be.

Getting ready to seed again for the fall and trying to determine if we need a giant overspreader like you posted, or a smaller one like I linked to, or maybe just a spreader again. 

You don't need the overseeder.  Just a slicer and a spreader will do..  Seeding a lawn with just a spreader, no other mechanized gadgets, can absolutely provide good results under the right conditions.  A slicer will always provide the right conditions. 

 

Since you mentioned pH...  NJ soil is acidic almost everywhere.  Lime is way underutilized here.  I remember as a kid in the 60's and 70's almost everyone Limed their yards.  Hardly anyone does it now.

 

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8 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

Since you mentioned pH...  NJ soil is acidic almost everywhere.  Lime is way underutilized here.  I remember as a kid in the 60's and 70's almost everyone Limed their yards.  Hardly anyone does it now.

 

I would not be so sure about the last part.  Back in the 60's and 70's you would see when people limed their lawns as they all used the white powder line.  Today there is black granular lime that is not nearly as messy and you would not see it even if it were just applied.

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1 hour ago, Howard said:

I would not be so sure about the last part.  Back in the 60's and 70's you would see when people limed their lawns as they all used the white powder line.  Today there is black granular lime that is not nearly as messy and you would not see it even if it were just applied.

Yes, back then all they had was pulverized lime, the same lime used on baseball fields.  You could always tell when someone used a drop spreader and got lazy doing it.  The lawn looked like a green zebra.  Nowadays, pelletized lime is more common, broadcast from a spreader and more uniform in coverage.  The only problem with broadcast spreaders is they throw whatever is in it everywhere.  Not a wise choice for weed killers.

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56 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

I have a new construction home (Built three years ago) and had nothing but weeds. Rented a Hydraulic Tiller and turned over the whole front yard. Had the soil tested and ended up adding a bunch of claybreaker (I live on the hill in Atl. Highlands. Soil is super hard clay), nitrogen and other stuff to get the PH right last October, then seeded.

Did your builder put down topsoil?  I know ours did.

I'm assuming there's "take home soil test kits" as well?

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1 hour ago, Scorpio64 said:

You don't need the overseeder.  Just a slicer and a spreader will do..  Seeding a lawn with just a spreader, no other mechanized gadgets, can absolutely provide good results under the right conditions.  A slicer will always provide the right conditions. 

 

Since you mentioned pH...  NJ soil is acidic almost everywhere.  Lime is way underutilized here.  I remember as a kid in the 60's and 70's almost everyone Limed their yards.  Hardly anyone does it now.

 

I'm with you

nj is mostly alluvial. Ergo- lime

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Rent the slicer, use good seed (NOT CONTRACTOR MIX) and keep it moist for at least 2 weeks.  Not drenched but moist.  If it dries out you are screwed.  Let me know if you need any help.

Scorpio, what type of seed is best for central NJ?  I've heard turf type fescue but it seems different houses in my area all seem to have different types of lawn / grass.  Also, where do you recommend buying good grass seed (other than Lowes or HD).

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1 hour ago, gleninjersey said:

Rent the slicer, use good seed (NOT CONTRACTOR MIX) and keep it moist for at least 2 weeks.  Not drenched but moist.  If it dries out you are screwed.  Let me know if you need any help.

Scorpio, what type of seed is best for central NJ?  I've heard turf type fescue but it seems different houses in my area all seem to have different types of lawn / grass.  Also, where do you recommend buying good grass seed (other than Lowes or HD).

We have been using Jonathan Green (local NJ seed grower) Ultra which is a mix of tall fescues, Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye.  It's an attractive all purpose seed mix for cool season growth, drought resistance and can handle moderate foot traffic.  If you have lots of kids (or parties) in your back yard then JG Original may be a better choice for the back yard. 

If you want to be super lazy, you can order the seed on Amazon.  Many landscape nurseries and local lawn and garden shops carry JG products.  To find a supplier near you, use their store locator.

http://www.jonathangreen.com/jonathan-green-store-locator.html

 

Something I forgot to mention earlier in the thread.  Don't forget to scalp your lawn before you begin the seed preparation process.  If you are seeding the whole lawn, scalp the whole lawn.  If you are spot seeding, just scalp the area to be seeded. Set the mow height the lowest you can without having the blade(s) hit the ground or surface roots.  It's going to be another 4 to 6 weeks before you can cut your grass after seeding.  Plus, the clippings help the soil retain water and add nutrients.

 

 

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