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I want to build an AR 15/m4 need help

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I've done lots of research but sometimes it's too much info! Basically I'm interested in building an AR 15/m4. 223/556 rifle for long range target shooting. I'm not looking to spend a ton of cash if I can avoid it. From what I've gathered I prob want an aluminum lower and the barrel I need is nitrate? I have read chrome has imperfections and can affect the accuracy? I've found a few spread sheets on Google but honestly it's all foreign to me. Anyone have build suggestions? If it matters I would prefer it to be earth tone

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first lets start with a budget.   and what you consider long range shooting.   forget about aluminum and nitrate and all of that.  just get quality parts that fit your needs.   for long range shooting you are essentially looking for good optics, a good barrel, and a good trigger.   that, plus a free floated barrel will get you close.  

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The question I have for you is how concerned you are with traditional look / aesthetics vs accuracy / functionality.

The most accurate ARs consist of a billet upper and stainless steel barrels.

Neither one which should break the bank.

X-Caliber has hand lapped SS barrels for $235 +-

 

 

 

^^^^^ and what he said

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Im thinkin about buying parts over the course of a few months. Would like to try to say around 600 - 700$ if possiable. Was hoping to consistently shoot around 5 to 600 yards. I would like it to look good. Am I asking too much?

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with that budget PSA (palmetto state armory) is your best friend...  although at the moment 18" and 20" complete uppers are low or out of stock

 

there are tons of threads on this forum answering any question you can think of from lowers, lower parts kits, triggers, stocks, uppers, barrels/twist rates/muzzle devices, etc...  

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Before you buy or ASSEMBLE anything you should figure out what you want to use it for. I know you said you want to shoot 5-600 yards but theres only one place around here that has that kind of range. That's Cumberland Riflemen on 49 in Millville. You can join the range and go punch paper but that mighnt get boring.

 

You mighnt want to look into Service Rifle

They have a really good Service Rifle program on Tuesday nights at Cumberland and will teach you a lot (ask me how I know) about becoming a true rifle shooter. They also have a lot of Service Rifle Matches there and if you go that route you should look into the new changes for 2016 and ASSEMBILE your rifle to those standards. The CMP (Civilian Marksmanship Program) is allowing a 1-4 optic on a carbine or 20" now or you can still use the old school A2 Irons if you go that route.

If you want to look into this you can go to any of the matches there, ask questions and see what its all about. There is also another forum called National Match with lots of great people and info.

Okay, here is the thing about Service Rifle shooting or pretty much any kind of F Class stuff. Its kinda boring and there is a certain kind of umm, well there is no polite way of saying it, its kind of for old farts just looking to get out of the house. Don't get me wrong, there is a lot of good guys too and I probably will do it again someday BUT you will have a lot more fun at a 3 Gun, Steel Challenge or USPSA match. There is a lot more joking around, (well at Service rifle matches the only jokes are political and no one except the guy telling them actually laughs) and the courses of fire are just way more fun. I'm talking real fun, not like golf.

 

If you want to assemble a rifle for 3 gun there is pretty much only two options for the barrel. 

The Nordic Stainless Steel 18" or the Stretch 16 melanite both in 1:8 twist.

Both will hold tight groups at 500.

The barrel and the trigger are pretty much the two most important things.

Don't get me wrong its all pretty important, BCG, FF tube, stock that fits you, scope mount...

The main thing is like anything in life, buy once cry once, a good tattoo aint cheap and a cheap tattoo aint good...

 

If you want to just go to the range and poke holes in paper you can buy pretty much anything and you could for sure hit the target at any distance, its just about how many times you want to do it and how tight you want the groups.

 

Also don't be scared to assemble the upper, it only takes five minuets. If you need the tools I have them and your welcome to them.

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I see 2 pics 1 on top of the other one has a stainless barrel. Thats on top. Reason I said 5 to 600 yards is I have a rifle that shoots 200 yards pretty well. If I'm gonna build something I'm lookin for 2 to 3 x the distance that was just my logic behind the distance. As I stated, I would like to build it over the course of the next few months. I assume you start with a lower. I'm very new to the idea of building a rifle but I also figure instead of me buying one off the rack and spending a ton to upgrade it how I want, why not build it from scratch and not have a ton of leftover unused parts.

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Oh I only clicked one. I like the top one a lot

 

The bottom one is a closer range rifle I assume. What is the range you can get out of the bottom one

I kind of tricked you.  The scoped rifle is not .223.  But I do have a 223 identical to the one shown and the bare rifle, no glass no bipod is well under $1k with a real good trigger.

 

BTW the 223 may go on the market and shoots a ragged hole at 100yds

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So is the scoped one a. 308? It's a sweet piece! I have an AK clone and it's not nearly as accurate as I would prefer at long range, also I'm not putting glass on an AK.... Figured instead of buying a few rifles maybe I could build up an AR 15/m4 type that would reach out farther than the AK clone and possibly toss in a. 22 conversion for plinking and training. Maybe I'm askin too much but I figured I'd ask here to see if my expectations could be reality or just pipe dreams

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Just order this upper and wait till it's built.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17553&cat=259&page=1

Then you can shoot the NM course or varmints your choice.

 

T - That's a nice upper and though not cheap ...Not really a bad price either

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Wow it looks nice and all but it's a little more than I wanted to spend on an upper. Let me put it this way. Will any pre-built upper work with any complete lower? I'm sure any stock will work so really what else is there?

Yes, but you'll want a rifle type lower for long range shooting. WOA builds top drawer NM uppers. I built a 24" SS BBL Crowned 1:8 Wylde upper for varmints that works fine. Used a Wilson Arms barrel.

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Wow it looks nice and all but it's a little more than I wanted to spend on an upper. Let me put it this way. Will any pre-built upper work with any complete lower? I'm sure any stock will work so really what else is there?

For AR-15 calibers yes! If you venture into the AR-10 calibers, you will need an AR-10 lower!!! Other than that, yes, any lower with any upper!

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Wow it looks nice and all but it's a little more than I wanted to spend on an upper. Let me put it this way. Will any pre-built upper work with any complete lower? I'm sure any stock will work so really what else is there?

If they are in spec they should work together.

 

the "what else is there" is quality enough parts to do what you want it to do. Your budget of $700 pretty much gets you to the most basic of ARs. Not that there is anything wrong with that but if you want a bench rifle shooting jagged holes at 100 and good tight groups at 500+ you could spend almost that on a trigger and barrel.

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Ok well this was definitely a reality check on what I expect to get out of the rifle! So with about 700$ invested I can get a good platform to go out and shoot with. But if I wanted to shoot accurately at 600 yd I would prob look at spending 2x as much. So an AR 15 upper in 223/556 is prob the route I am looking. Does it matter what barrel finish? Chrome lined? The. 22 drop in conversions, are they worth it? Does the. 22 shoot down a. 223 barrel? I don't get how the drop in kits work when it looks like just the bolt being replaced. I talked to some guys at my LGS and they told me it doesn't work that way but isn't the. 22 lr projectile the same as the. 223 diameter? Like I said I'm new to ARs

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Stop asking at the LGS (not all are lousy, we know who they are).  Ask us, we know!  OK, for your setup, a stainless steel with a 1:8 twist and Wylde chamber will give you all and more than you ask for.  Next, yes, the 22 conversion kits work, but i would not use it in a barrel I shoot precision long range in.  22LR leaves lead and crap everywhere.  Here's the deal, you replace the BCG with the 22LR BCG and use a magazine set up to feed 22LR. That's it, plink away.  Black Dog Machine makes a great magazine here.  Conversion kits by CMMG and Target Master are two that I have used.  My old USAF kit from the 80's works the best but that is another story.

 

Now for the minus part of the equation.  22LR is best at a 1:16 twist. AR barrels are 1:7 to 1:9 most all the time. Just a little too fast for the old 22LR. So, does it work? Hell, yea it does.  Just don't expect match quality.  Great way to plink away the day cheaper than 223/5.56.  Second, that nasty dirty 22LR crap gets everywhere.  A cleaning is required after use.  Put the original BCG back in the gun and fire 5-10 shots of 223 through it when done with the 22LR, cleans out the barrel and gas system.  Take it home and give it a good cleanup, and your back in business.

 

My precision AR does not get fed anything but the round it was matched up to.  When I want to fart around out comes the truck gun or something similar.  The match gun is just for the purpose intended.

 

If you don't have your lower yet, work on that.  I am seeing spikes in prices now.  Seems Obama is back selling guns full time again with this Executive Order crap I keep hearing about.  Today I just saw Anderson lowers on a distributor's site that were selling in the $40-$50 dollar range a week ago, listed at $90 today

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The .22 conversions work. Check reviews before you buy. As I suggested before, if you want a long range tack driver I would use a separate upper for the .22. .22 is fine in an AR but for a high accuracy build it's just going to make things more laborious and complicated IMO.

 

Maybe try this. Try to get an AR with a decent barrel for a reputation of accuracy. Not an expensive one. You could even get one a little shorter if you wanted, since this won;t be your final build. You will find it is accurate enough to have a lot of fun with. Then save up for a trigger. Now it's getting better. Save up for glass and rings. You'll be surprised what you can do with a realistically priced AR, and you will be learning how to shoot the AR better, and having a lot of fun. Buy the super-upper last to get that last bit of precision. Now you will have one upper for fun and one for target. And you could always sell one and get up to half your money back. I suggest this since you don't have the cash to go all the way up front. Seems better than waiting.

 

The 5.56 chamber and chrome lined are the most durable and low maintenance. The Wylde or .223 chambers (.223 chambers should not normal fire 5.56) are more accurate as are non-chrome lined and stainless steel barrels.

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Great info! Thanks for answering my novice questions! Ok so back to reality instead of dreaming of having an ar15 that does everything for 700$ I think I will Def go the route of 2 uppers. It makes a lot of sense what you guys are saying! So next question. Because I'll start with a lower, I see them sold online for around 50ish bucks but if I buy online I'll have to go thru my ffl anyway right. Cus the lower is considered the firearm correct?

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