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always_an_eagle

What to look for when buying a used SxS shotgun?

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If you feel the need to polish the chambers either of the methods mentioned will work. I would suggest T Bills. Nothing against W2MC. Drills and Dremel tools have ruined more guns than have been worn out by shooting.

 

A very good point.  The only time I've ever done this was to polish the chamber and, more importantly, the feed ramp on a relatively new 870 that had tool chatter marks that were deep and sharp enough to cause it to lock-up when extracting low brass shells.  (Interestingly, it only affected low brass, High brass guided the shell out of the chamber further and allowed the shell rim to step-over the chatter marks and onto the smooth portion of the ramp.)

 

And yes, a LOT of firearms have been destroyed by folks who didnt know what they were doing (or thought they did...)

 

And also yes, no amount of polishing will turn a 311A into an ejector shotgun....extractors only

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Extraction never was a problem on old guns that were well made and cared for. (And REAL brass bases on shotshells helped as well.)

 

Poor quality control these days and steel bases on shotshells can make for chambers that stick on poorly made guns. 

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Extraction never was a problem on old guns that were well made and cared for. (And REAL brass bases on shotshells helped as well.)

 

Poor quality control these days and steel bases on shotshells can make for chambers that stick on poorly made guns.

 

Paper shotgun shells came out in the late 1870s. If you have a shotgun that "needs" brass shells it has to be pretty old. I know a guy who loads brass 12 ga with black powder for his old shotguns.

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Paper shotgun shells came out in the late 1870s. If you have a shotgun that "needs" brass shells it has to be pretty old. I know a guy who loads brass 12 ga with black powder for his old shotguns.

 

 

I'm talking about the shotgun hulls that used brass bases (both high and low) before the advent of cheaper steel bases with a brass or nickel wash. Some are referred to as "promotional loads." (These should be considered non-reloadable to hardcore shotshell reloaders out there.)  

 

Brass would never stick in a chamber unless the gun's chamber was ill-taken care of. WWAA compression-formed, Remington Premier and then STS hulls, Federal Gold Medal plastic & paper hulls still use brass to my knowledge. They are premium loads, and perform as such. They are also reloadable many times over. Too often I see brass-washed steel rust when exposed to moisture over a long period. This doesn't help with extraction either. 

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I'm talking about the shotgun hulls that used brass bases (both high and low) before the advent of cheaper steel bases with a brass or nickel wash. Some are referred to as "promotional loads." (These should be considered non-reloadable to hardcore shotshell reloaders out there.)  

 

Brass would never stick in a chamber unless the gun's chamber was ill-taken care of. WWAA compression-formed, Remington Premier and then STS hulls, Federal Gold Medal plastic & paper hulls still use brass to my knowledge. They are premium loads, and perform as such. They are also reloadable many times over. Too often I see brass-washed steel rust when exposed to moisture over a load period. This doesn't help with extraction either.

 

Okay see what you're referring to now. I guess I'm revealing my age as I've seen all brass shotgun shells.

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My pops 311 has rolled many deer with 2 3/4" 1buck.

If you do want to shoot a tighter patterning buckshot in it use the flight control rounds from federal. Stuff is designed to be shot with an open choke. I've shot the 1buck version and the stuff is deadly.

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