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Paint primer question

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Need help from those of you who know paint, cause I don't.

 

Just bought a house, well 31st it'll be MY house, and old owners loved pink. Home inspector told me what type of paint style or whatever they did because it's not your normal look. Was informed a good primer will take care of the style it is.

 

When going into lowes they have a huge assortment of primers. No clue the differences of them all so I am lost.

 

Basically I need advice on a good primer, comes in the big ass jug since I will be doing whole house.

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I would just use a standard primer. I think it is called PVA primer sold in 5 gallon buckets. Cheap and it should be all you need. 1 coat my not completely cover the pink but that is ok it will lighten the color dramatically and then 1 coat of color, signature or better will do.

 

 

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A coat or two of primer and then a paint and primer in one on top should cover it nicely. Covering crazy colors sucks....
Killz makes a good primer..
You get what you pay for..
If its a high end house and you can afford to drop a bit more $$, look into benjamin moore paint rather than home depot stuff (behr, etc)

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A coat or two of primer and then a paint and primer in one on top should cover it nicely. Covering crazy colors sucks....

Killz makes a good primer..

You get what you pay for..

If its a high end house and you can afford to drop a bit more $$, look into benjamin moore paint rather than home depot stuff (behr, etc)

Second benny moore.

Some of the Aura line may be a one stop shop for you. Paint once.

Ask the guy at the counter. Product may be more expensive but one coat vs 2-3 ( 1 being primer) is worth more in your time.

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paint and primer in one is marketing bs, aside from the aura line, wich runst about 70 a gallon, but it is phenomenal at covering crappy colors. Prime and paint is the way to go even if the can says paint and primer in one. We still recomend that you be brepared for more than one coat because there are multiple factors that go into how well paint covers, one of wich being how long ago the house was last painted, and things like humidity in the home etc. paint dries out ofver time and after about 5+ years it really starts acting like a sponge to that first or primer coat

 

if you use killz or similar make sure you use the latex stuff for large areas. i just primed a bathroom with BIN and the fumes really suck

 

if it were me id hit it with either benjamin moore 02300 "fresh start" primer or zinzer 123 and then go over it with paint of choice.

 

i have beef with valspar both as a product and a company working in a benjamin moore dealer that caries clark+kensington and valspar because were an ace store. they carry different lines, and even ace and lowes colors are different and it makes it a nightmare for us as a retailer, so i do admit strong prejudice.

 

that being said never use the low end paint from big box stores, atleast get the good stuff, unless your selling or its a rental

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With the caveat that I'm not a professional, I've had to paint over many a dark colored wall and had no need for primer as long as you're using good paint. I use Sherwin Williams, mainly because a contractor account gives me about 40% off the retail price. I've had great results with both Superpaint (a 2 in 1 primer/paint) and also promar 200/400.

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A basic primer is fine. You just want to cover the pink with white so it doesnt bleed/change the color of the paint of your choice.

Im not a fan of the HD or Lowes paint, but use Ben Moore or Shermin Williams works fine.  

 I paint (&  do construction) on weekend to supplement my gun habit)  

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I hire 25 kids in the summer to paint.  We apply hundreds of gallons of paint each year.

 

1) If it has a sheen, lightly sand to knock the shine down.  Many books say to use TSP.  It works too but it's a mess.  One or two strokes with sand paper is all it takes.  You just want the shine gone.

2) Us a good primer.  I prefer Kilz original but it stinks.  There is a water based Kilz 2.  Works well too but not as good as the original.  Zinseer also makes a good primer.

3) Use a good paint.  The big box stores will have 3 price ranges.  Cheap, middle, expensive. Get the expensive.  It will have more solids.  More solids means a thicker coat when it dries, which means less coats needed.   Don't bother with the "fancy" grade.  Eddie Bauer or Tommy Hilfiger or some other designer will have paint that is no better than the store brand - if you get the best of the store brands.

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I'll just chime in that I'm a fan of Kilz and have also used Kilz 2.    I've never had anything peel that was primer'd with Kilz.  When I painted my house in 99, I use used Benjamin Moore's primer.   In about 6 years I started to get peeling.

 

Around the same time in 99, I painted my shed with Kilz and used the leftover house paint.  It still hasn't peeled, 17 years later.

 

I repainted my house in 2009 and shot Kilz first.  We're almost 8 years in, no peeling.

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Been trying think what the inspector said was paint style and I believe it was faux, sounds right. Don't know if that also helps add advise.

 

If sanding is needed what grit should I go with?

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If you're just knocking down the shiny surface, 120 grit.  If you have rough spots you want to remove, start with something course like 80 grit and then hit it with 120. The flatter the paint, the harder it is to see imperfections.  If you are putting something shiny on the wall, you might need to sand with 200 grit to make the surface smooth.

 

Commercially, we usually go with an eggshell finish. It's flat enough to hide imperfections but smooth enough that you can clean dirt and spills.

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What color are you painting the walls? If they're going to be white, you might need to prime and add a coat or two. They were supposed to prime my walls then add 2 coats. I think it wound up being 1 coat and having another painter sent by the contractor after the first set was told not to come back.

 

Oh, and we used the Valspar Reserve paint. It looks okay. It serves it's purpose for being washable though. After a few incidents of having to scrub crayon off the wall, we switched to washable crayons, and now it wipes off the latex paint with a paper towel and water.

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just buy a gal of the paint and give a small area two coats, see what it looks like. Gonna do two coats anyway might as well be the finished color. Sometimes when painting over white/primer two color coats are needed anyway so this way you may save time/matl on two color coats vs 3 total. Besides a good paint job is more about proper wall prep anyway, patching, sanding etc...

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Here's a tip.  Buy your paint from a paint supplier instead of the big box store.  Ask them if they can tint your primer to be a close match to your paint.  Depending on the color you choose, they can sometimes do this.  A primer coat close to your paint color makes it much more likely that one coat of paint will cover.  We do this if we're painting a dark or bright color over something else dark or bright.

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I will second the Ben Moore Fresh Start, it has the advantage of being pretty thick compared to many of the paints and primers from Lowes, etc.... IF you have a faux finish or anything with any sort of surface too it, it will help a lot with creating a smooth base to put a top coat on. No regular paint will do that even if it promised to be a primer. I have always regretted not using Fresh Start type primer on walls where I am making any significant color change or patching any significant damage or dirt coverage..

 

I also have almost always regretted not buy Ben Moore for my top coat too. It is very expensive, but it really does go on easier and it is usually less messy..... I am still trying to get spatter up from a project years ago with some cheap Olympic Paint from Home Depot.

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