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Rob0115

AK47 & AK74 builds

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I'm building two tacticool AK's the 47 is yet to be coverted Saiga that I picked up like new for cheap. The other is a 74 with a Bulgarian parts kit and a nodak spud receiver.

 

The barrel will be cut so that OAL with the lantac dragon brake will be 16", replacing the gas block with a venom tactical front sight gas block, the fire furniture will be ditched for an mlok rail from Midwest and the stock will be converted to AR tube with the rifle dynamics adapter. The triggers will be purple spring ALG AK. I'll be painting them in battle worn. Hopefully see some results soon. I've been sitting on all this stuff for months but broke it all out today.

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How are the builds going? I have a Sam7r sitting at Tier one. Not sure if I'm gonna chop the barrel. Do you think there is any added benefit or are you just doing it for a certain look? Lantac brake is the way I'm going also.

 

There's no benefit, I like the look.

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How are the builds going? I have a Sam7r sitting at Tier one. Not sure if I'm gonna chop the barrel. Do you think there is any added benefit or are you just doing it for a certain look? Lantac brake is the way I'm going also.

 

I have shot a Krebs 103K-S, the chopped barrel is nice, easy to swing the rifle around in a CQB situation. I am considering chopping one too. 

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I have shot a Krebs 103K-S, the chopped barrel is nice, easy to swing the rifle around in a CQB situation. I am considering chopping one too. 

I like the 103 also. I asked mike if i could keep the front sight and just push it back. No go and i really don't like the look of a gas block/sight combo. I may put an adjustable stock on it to shorten it up if i feel its too long. I doubt it though. Im almost 6'5 so everything looks small in my hands lol 

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Here's the 74. Its based on a Nodak Spud and Bulgarian parts kit.  The barrel is chrome lined. Its my modern take on an AK.  The rail is a chaos rail that is really nice and the muzzle brake is a Lantac Dragon.  I bailed on the MI rails because I thought they sucked. The trigger from ALG work people spring is shockingly nice. The barrel was cut and muzzle attached to 16.1 OAL. An AK that won't be too everyone's taste.   I have Saiga conversion in 7.62 using the same parts. 

The paint is fairly ornate but the lighting and my photography skills suck. 

Shoots like a dream

nHMO707.jpg

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Here's the 74. Its based on a Nodak Spud and Bulgarian parts kit.  The barrel is chrome lined. Its my modern take on an AK.  The rail is a chaos rail that is really nice and the muzzle brake is a Lantac Dragon.  I bailed on the MI rails because I thought they sucked. The trigger from ALG work people spring is shockingly nice. The barrel was cut and muzzle attached to 16.1 OAL. An AK that won't be too everyone's taste.   I have Saiga conversion in 7.62 using the same parts. 
The paint is fairly ornate but the lighting and my photography skills suck. 
Shoots like a dream
nHMO707.jpg


Looks great - which AR stock adapter did you use? I want to put a pinned CTR stock on my WASR and I'm trying to decide between the Definitive Arms and the Rifle Dynamics adapters.


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17 hours ago, medved11 said:

 


Looks great - which AR stock adapter did you use? I want to put a pinned CTR stock on my WASR and I'm trying to decide between the Definitive Arms and the Rifle Dynamics adapters.


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Ill second the RD adapter. Ive never had the difinitive arms one in my hand but the RD one has worked out real nice for me

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Thanks - Did the RD adapter require any fitting to get it into the trunnion?

 

The reason that I'm asking is that I used the Definitive Arms adapter on my Saiga and it took a decent amount of grinding on the belt sander to get it to slide in. I originally thought that my receiver was out of square but it was fine when I checked it. It was a breeze getting it in once the sanding was done but it would be great if the RD adapter will go in with a little less sanding and time cold bluing where the finish got taken off

 

 

 

 

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I haven't done the Saiga yet but it was no filing on the Nodak Spud receiver.



Thanks - does the RD adapter seem solidly built in your opinion? It's been awhile, but I recall that a few years there were a lot of people claiming that the screws in the RD model were prone to snapping.



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7 hours ago, medved11 said:

 

 


Thanks - does the RD adapter seem solidly built in your opinion? It's been awhile, but I recall that a few years there were a lot of people claiming that the screws in the RD model were prone to snapping.



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It look extremely well made.  You can order one from brownells and return it if you don’t agree.  They take back everything.   

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I'll give the RD adapter a try.

One other question - did you replace the gas block yourself or did you need a gunsmith to do it?  I kind of want to change out the block on my WASR for cosmetic purposes. It seems like a pretty straight forward process to do in the garage as long as you have access to a press.

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I had a gunsmith do it but it doesn't look like a big deal to be honest.  I really like the front sight gas block. It gives a unique look. 

 

It may need to be pressed out if it can't be tapped out. 

 

 

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On 8/7/2017 at 8:40 AM, medved11 said:

Thanks - Did the RD adapter require any fitting to get it into the trunnion?

 

no fiting of any kind was needed on my saiga, direct bolt in.

On 8/8/2017 at 7:17 AM, medved11 said:

I'll give the RD adapter a try.

One other question - did you replace the gas block yourself or did you need a gunsmith to do it?  I kind of want to change out the block on my WASR for cosmetic purposes. It seems like a pretty straight forward process to do in the garage as long as you have access to a press.

i did the gas block myself on my build, its really not that big of a deal. if it wont tap off and you dont want to save the part you can split it with a dremel, i had to do that on my front sight. the one from venom tactical is a bolt on replacement, so no press needed. alignment can be done on the kitchen counter, or similar flat surface, with 2 squares

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I'm using the venom tactical front sight and I think it's a really functional upgrade.  I originally did it for aesthetics but it's a better sight as welll. 

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22 minutes ago, medved11 said:

You have to file the sight post on the Venom block in order to zero the gun, right?

I did not and haven't heard that. Here is the instructions from venom tactical. 

https://venomtactical.com/collections/venom-tactical-ak-47-74-parts/products/venom-tactical-ak47-ak-74-gas-block

 

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11 minutes ago, Rob0115 said:

I did not and haven't heard that. Here is the instructions from venom tactical. 

https://venomtactical.com/collections/venom-tactical-ak-47-74-parts/products/venom-tactical-ak47-ak-74-gas-block

They don't mention it specifically in the instructions, but there's this little bit just above the instructions on that page:

The front sight is adjustable for windage with a simple screwdriver. For elevation the sight post is left purposely long so that you can zero your rifle and then use the rear sight as normal.

That's the part that grabbed my attention after seeing a bunch of posts about this block on another site. I'm guessing that like all guns, the zero is going to vary so they give you that extra length in case you need it to bring the POI up.

I found this video where Jim Fuller gives instructions on how to file the post:

 

 

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On 8/8/2017 at 7:17 AM, medved11 said:

I'll give the RD adapter a try.

One other question - did you replace the gas block yourself or did you need a gunsmith to do it?  I kind of want to change out the block on my WASR for cosmetic purposes. It seems like a pretty straight forward process to do in the garage as long as you have access to a press.

Getting the gas block off is easy and does not require a press...BUT before you replace it make sure to take measurements of the existing gas block's pins and compare to the new gas block that you are putting on. If they dont line up you are going to have to put new notches in your barrel so you can drive the pins in.

To remove first use a punch to get the pins out then  dremmel a line down the side of the GB and be careful.. once you are almost through you can take a chisel and hammer to break through and it will come right off.

 

One other thing to note: From what I have read, 90 and 45 degree gas blocks are not compatible with out having to drill a new gas port on the barrel which is not recommended.

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4 hours ago, medved11 said:

You have to file the sight post on the Venom block in order to zero the gun, right?

you do. i did cheat this by using a aperture rear sight with a setscrew for elevation adjustment 

3 hours ago, carl_g said:

Getting the gas block off is easy and does not require a press...BUT before you replace it make sure to take measurements of the existing gas block's pins and compare to the new gas block that you are putting on. If they dont line up you are going to have to put new notches in your barrel so you can drive the pins in.

To remove first use a punch to get the pins out then  dremmel a line down the side of the GB and be careful.. once you are almost through you can take a chisel and hammer to break through and it will come right off.

 

One other thing to note: From what I have read, 90 and 45 degree gas blocks are not compatible with out having to drill a new gas port on the barrel which is not recommended.

the venom tactical bolts on, it does not use any of the existing pin notches

10 minutes ago, Rob0115 said:

The venom tactical is compatible with both according to their site. 

the venom tactical is drilled for both 45 and 90 degree

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34 minutes ago, CageFighter said:

who chopped the barrel?   I have an SLR107FR that I may want hacked to 16.1" barrel (kinda a Krebs clone)

 

Gus at DCS.  

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