EWC88 24 Posted April 28, 2017 I'll get pics tomorrow, and I'll explain better with pics lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Golf battery 1,222 Posted April 28, 2017 Im in Pennington. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer 241 Posted April 28, 2017 According to the code your softner brine discharge or nutralizer back wash is supposed to drain into a standpipe, or trapped fixture into your private sewage disposal system or city sewer. You're not supposed to discharge it outside (it's a dangerous backflow possibly) . Unless you run it into a sump pit first with an air gap, then the sump pump discharges outside to a splash block or a storm drainage system. Best way to clean out your storm drain conductors is to call in someone with a water jetter. They'll blast them clean in a few minutes with a jetter. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted April 28, 2017 Wow never knew that, you would think the township and inspector would have said something since it was discharging right by my basement doors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted April 28, 2017 Prolly no permit 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted April 28, 2017 According to the code your softner brine discharge or nutralizer back wash is supposed to drain into a standpipe, or trapped fixture into your private sewage disposal system or city sewer. You're not supposed to discharge it outside (it's a dangerous backflow possibly) . Unless you run it into a sump pit first with an air gap, then the sump pump discharges outside to a splash block or a storm drainage system. Best way to clean out your storm drain conductors is to call in someone with a water jetter. They'll blast them clean in a few minutes with a jetter. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk In your professional opinion do see any negative effect it would have on the septic system? And I did not know about a water jetting machine. I have my pvc going into terra and if I'm lax on root x it's snake time. Although, I think that could make a shitty job, much shittier. Lol. One day I'll dig it up and replace at the main. One day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted April 28, 2017 Wow never knew that, you would think the township and inspector would have said something since it was discharging right by my basement doors.If you can rent a water jetting machine I'd do that. The extra beer you can give to me... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer 241 Posted April 28, 2017 In your professional opinion do see any negative effect it would have on the septic system? And I did not know about a water jetting machine. I have my pvc going into terra and if I'm lax on root x it's snake time. Although, I think that could make a shitty job, much shittier. Lol. One day I'll dig it up and replace at the main. One day. If your septic system works like it's supposed to, it shouldn't hurt anything. A water jetting machine isn't something to play with if you don't have proper training. You can do damage to your drains, or seriously hurt someone. It's usually mounted to a trailer with a big engine, hose reels, and tank. Not sure if anyone rents them. But they blow snakes away. Works so much better. Yeah clay pipe can be jetted, but digging it up and switching to pvc is probably a better idea. The other option would be pipe bursting with a re sleeve. That's trenchless. The machine goes through the pipe bursting it, and drags in a sleeve behind it, that gets a resin/harder injected into it in place of where the old pipe used to be. Then air is blow in to make the sleeve inflate. Once it hardens it's basically a pvc pipe in place of where the old main was. No shovels, no trench bracing, no backhoe destroying the yard. It's pretty cool actually. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted April 28, 2017 Thank you. I'm city. I've gotten conflicting opinions from subs. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer 241 Posted April 28, 2017 If it's an easy dig (not too deep or too long) I would probably just dig it up. We usually recommend the other method if it's below a slab, driveway, roadway, expensive patio, a tree above the line that the customer wants to save, or the property has some really treacherous terrain that makes a machine dig dangerous. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted April 28, 2017 Think I determined that pipe, it's the pvc going to septic lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 3, 2017 Tried snaking the drain, got same results as the hose, does 4' then dead stop. Which makes me think either collapsed pipe or the landscapers just had to pipe go out to the grass and then capped it. Looks like I will be having a fun filled event of digging a new trench and laying proper pipe (jokes aside lol) down. How deep should the pipe be in ground? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 3, 2017 Frost is tres zapatos. But. What's your low point? You want to come to day light. Idealistic your 3' down with a min 1/8per foot slope/ pitch/drop. 1/4 is better. id use 40 pvc. Cry once, sore once, dig once. But that's me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T Bill 649 Posted May 4, 2017 Schedule 20 is plenty if not driving on it. How deep? Depends on pitch, length and ground conditions. I have some that are only 6-12 inches deep, others 1-2 feet. Mine are buried in sand except for the top six inches. Makes digging them up easier next time if I have to, also makes it easy to find them. Newer ones have layer of fabric on top of sand, keeps dirt out. So far so good after 30 years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 4, 2017 What are your guys thoughts on having the pipe drain into one of those water leaching tub in the ground? I've been going back and forth on that, or just dumping it out in my woods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 5, 2017 Better into woods. Better yet into 1000 gal tank.... soon here, with overflow into " da woods". Drought whatch this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakridgefirearms 224 Posted May 5, 2017 2 hours ago, EWC88 said: What are your guys thoughts on having the pipe drain into one of those water leaching tub in the ground? I've been going back and forth on that, or just dumping it out in my woods. Dry wells should only be used if you can't drain the pipe out to daylight somewhere. Dry wells will work better if your soil perks well, if you have a lot of clay they will fill up with water and and not drain out causing them to back up into the pipe. If you have the option of running the pipe to let out at a lower point, go that route. Make sure you have consistent pitch the entire length, if you have a low spot crap will collect there and cause a clog in the future. As others have said, replace the ADS pipe (black corrugated) with PVC pipe. S&D (aka: sch 20) pipe should be thick enough unless you plan on driving over it. Otherwise use sch 35 pipe since it is thick enough but cheaper than sch 40 and usually has belled ends, so you won't need couplers. Sch 35 also has the OD as S&D pipe, so you can connect them together without adapters if you want to use both. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 5, 2017 Ok I will skip the dry well idea because I do have clay. Trying to debate how far I want to run the pipe, I was thinking about just going 15-20' from house maybe and dumping it behind my shed. I'll dig a lot of the dirt out behind shed and fill a good area with rocks and have it drain onto that. Does that sound smart/good? Also dumb question, when you say you want output to see light I am assuming you mean the pipe output should be out from under ground at the drain spot? I'm drawing a brain fart but will check when I get home but for some reason I feel the output wouldn't be out unless I dig a good size hole behind shed, BUT I could be wrong on that thought. I'll clarify when I get home today. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 5, 2017 21 minutes ago, EWC88 said: Ok I will skip the dry well idea because I do have clay. Trying to debate how far I want to run the pipe, I was thinking about just going 15-20' from house maybe and dumping it behind my shed. I'll dig a lot of the dirt out behind shed and fill a good area with rocks and have it drain onto that. Does that sound smart/good? Also dumb question, when you say you want output to see light I am assuming you mean the pipe output should be out from under ground at the drain spot? I'm drawing a brain fart but will check when I get home but for some reason I feel the output wouldn't be out unless I dig a good size hole behind shed, BUT I could be wrong on that thought. I'll clarify when I get home today. Layman. Exposed at end( behind your shed) Daylight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer 241 Posted May 5, 2017 Frost is tres zapatos. But. What's your low point? You want to come to day light. Idealistic your 3' down with a min 1/8per foot slope/ pitch/drop. 1/4 is better. id use 40 pvc. Cry once, sore once, dig once. But that's me2" pipe or smaller is 1/4" per foot, 3" or larger 1/8" per foot. Those values are to convey solid waste, for storm drain conductors it shouldn't matter if you go beyond 1/8" on 3" or larger, because there shouldn't be any solids. Maybe the occasional leaf that makes it down there is about it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 5, 2017 3 minutes ago, DeerSlayer said: 2" pipe or smaller is 1/4" per foot, 3" or larger 1/8" per foot. Those values are to convey solid waste, for storm drain conductors it shouldn't matter if you go beyond 1/8" on 3" or larger, because there shouldn't be any solids. Maybe the occasional leaf that makes it down there is about it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk To be honest. If you have any pitch it should work. But, good pitch it will work better. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 9, 2017 I think I'll go with 3" pipe to be the safest. Going have to figure where my septic lines goes because it is diagonal where I will have to run a line, will that be a issue if I have a pipe under another? Plan is: do width of my shed and about 5-6' out full of rock. How deep do you think I should go of rock? I will obviously put landscape fabric down first then fill with rock. Hoping to have enough rock to have that drain area be dry after water is dumped. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 10, 2017 There are calcs for rip rap. but, jus go with your intuition Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakridgefirearms 224 Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/9/2017 at 2:35 PM, EWC88 said: I think I'll go with 3" pipe to be the safest. Going have to figure where my septic lines goes because it is diagonal where I will have to run a line, will that be a issue if I have a pipe under another? Plan is: do width of my shed and about 5-6' out full of rock. How deep do you think I should go of rock? I will obviously put landscape fabric down first then fill with rock. Hoping to have enough rock to have that drain area be dry after water is dumped. Use 4" pipe, it's cheaper, more common and less likely to clog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer 241 Posted May 11, 2017 Use 4" pipe, it's cheaper, more common and less likely to clog.I agree. If it was waste pipe for effluent I would recommend staying with 3" because new toilets flush less water these days, and 3 works better. For storm drainage the bigger the better. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeke 5,504 Posted May 20, 2017 You fix your leakedge, um, drainedge problems yet? Update is paramount Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Golf battery 1,222 Posted May 20, 2017 Go with 4". Bigger the better at nearly same cost. Yeah daylight it if you can. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 20, 2017 I'll be honest I haven't yet, got busy with work and then freezer just died on us. Question, went to homedepot to price everything out. They had PVC: 4"x10' pvc40-dwv-pe for $24.28. Is this the kind I want to use? Because when looking at T connections and everything they had the kind as in that pipe, then they had the sewer grade which was thinner and cheaper in cost. The sewer grade connections were D3034 PVC. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Golf battery 1,222 Posted May 20, 2017 Sewer grade is just fine unless you're going to be running heavy equipment or vehicles over it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EWC88 24 Posted May 20, 2017 Heaviest thing that will be on top of it would be me and a lawn mower. No cars or anything will go there. Now to find the sewer grade pipe cause that Home Depot only had sewer grade fittings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites