notmetoo 41 Posted June 19, 2017 Couple of questions for you all. I have a S&W 15-6 in need of re-bluing (holster and handling wear primarily). Can anyone give me a ball park figure on what this would cost? Also, I'd appreciate recommendations of places that would do this, preferably within an hour of the Trenton area. Thanks for your help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 19, 2017 Why not send it back to S&W? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,634 Posted June 19, 2017 Following this closely. I have a 15-3 that could use a once over. Good idea Ray, but - Quality of work beibg equal - given the choice between mailing it to Springfield Mass and driving to wherever in NJ, I'd prefer to take the ride. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leadunderpressure 52 Posted June 19, 2017 Paterson Metals does this kind of work if it's not receiver related. Not sure if they'll do a whole gun.Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
notmetoo 41 Posted June 19, 2017 2 hours ago, Ray Ray said: Why not send it back to S&W? Not sure, but just trying to avoid shipping if there's a place close by. I'll give them a call. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 20, 2017 I gotta be honest with you brother, model 15s are easy to find. Is this gun a safe queen or do you plan on using it for self defense? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeletePLS 178 Posted June 20, 2017 pretty sure theres no one in NJ that does good bluing, even smith themselves doesn't doing bluing as good as they used to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 20, 2017 These are the guys I use: http://www.eastcoastbluing.com/ Nice work, they don't grind them up. Deep bluing and no spots. Equal to factory S&W blue. I have no affiliation and they are just outside of Goshen,NY Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
notmetoo 41 Posted June 20, 2017 14 hours ago, Ray Ray said: I gotta be honest with you brother, model 15s are easy to find. Is this gun a safe queen or do you plan on using it for self defense? Not for SD, that's what my 870 is for. Safe queen and plinking. Also, it's close to what I originally qualified on in the USAF, so "sentimental" value if you will. 5 hours ago, Old School said: These are the guys I use: http://www.eastcoastbluing.com/ Nice work, they don't grind them up. Deep bluing and no spots. Equal to factory S&W blue. I have no affiliation and they are just outside of Goshen,NY Thanks for the suggestion - I'll give them a call as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 20, 2017 Can we see how bad (or good) the finish is now? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 20, 2017 Here's a BIG!!! hint. When you ship a firearm for bluing, if you can strip it to bare components and just send the parts you want blued and you can save money. On your Smith this means removing the cylinder and crane and strip it. Strip the frame of all hammer / trigger components and springs reinstall the side plate and screws. Just sending the parts you want blued. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 21, 2017 @SpaceMX, it looks fine to me. Shoot her, clean her and call it a day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
notmetoo 41 Posted June 23, 2017 My compromise... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 24, 2017 Don't drink it @SpaceMX Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 24, 2017 15 hours ago, SpaceMX said: My compromise... Use OXPHO-Blue liquid or paste: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 24, 2017 degrease with alcohol and apply with Q-tip until it matches Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
notmetoo 41 Posted June 24, 2017 6 minutes ago, Old School said: Use OXPHO-Blue liquid or paste: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx? Thanks for the help! The Birchwood Casey stuff isn't as good I guess? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 24, 2017 Oxpho is what the pro's use for touch. up. Just do the spots you need done. Watch a youtube video Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Screwball 483 Posted June 24, 2017 I've heard good things about S&W redoing it...Personally, I hate blued finish. It looks good, but it really is just rust that looks good. I like Melonite (it's just black oxide on the surface), and have had good luck with it, but for guns I want to stay looking good, I go with a nickel based plating; CCR's cera-plate or Robar's NP3+. Never did a revolver in cera-plate, but here is my 642-1 in NP3+.Nickel isn't for everyone, but I feel matte versions look pretty good in most circumstances. Polished... too much upkeep required. Also, wear looks a lot better on nickel than bluing. CCR supposedly did a black plating, but I believe as it wears, the black goes away and the nickel shows through. Robar does a spray on finish over NP3 that is similar. If it is a gun you are going to shoot, it will wear. Even rebluing or touching up spots will eventually wear again... quicker the more you use it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites