Barms

Anybody familiar with 66 punch down block?

15 posts in this topic

House  has 5 rooms of 4 wire phone lines connected to one 66 block in basement.   I want to connect my Optimum modem so I can complete VoIP which I am getting in my triple play.   I have no idea how to take the modem RJ jack and connect it to the 66 block.   Ideally I would love one phone wire to from the modem to plug into one RJ jack in the 66 block and have all 5 rooms working.  I'm guessing that involves a complicated cross chain in the block right?  If that  is complicated I'd suffice with just ONE line in the 66 block, the kitchen run to get connected to the modem. This way I can have my land line base station be in the kitchen and not the basement where the modem is.

yeah yeah; buy a multi satellite cordless phone and then plug direct into back of modem then who cares where the base is right?   But if the house is wired nice why not attempt to keep it nice?  Optimum refuses to connect the modem to the 66 block and it's not like I can call Verizon and ask them to connect a cable phone line. 

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OK is your 66 block a A, B, or M?  Four posts makes it a M.  A or B blocks have six posts.  On M blocks post 1 and 2 are common, 3 and 4 are common. That is why you may see the metal clip on posts 2 and 3, they are carrying the conductor onto post 3 and 4.   On a B block (have not seen an A for centuries) all six posts on a row are common.  So wiring depends on how the tech wired it.  A lot of techs would bury unneeded conductors by wrapping them around the sheath  or cut them off.  Now for the wiring, old wire had four conductors red, green, yellow, black.  Modern CAT wiring has 8 conductors.  Now this is where people get confused. Each pair of conductors are bundled into groups of 25. There are two colors on each conductor,  There are five conductors with the same repeating Primary base color, and five with the same Secondary colors.  See the page below.

http://www.homephonewiring.com/clr-code.html

Now POTS (plain old telephone service) takes two conductors and comes in on the first pair of newer multipair cable.  WHITE/BLUE,  BLUE/WHITE or on old 4 conductor cable, GREEN and RED.  To terminate this to and RJ jack the BLUE/WHITE goes on post 4 and the WHITE/BLUE on post 5.  Yes it's backwards.  See this page below,

http://www.lanshack.com/wire_phone_jack.aspx

Hope that helps decipher you wiring. Just be aware after years installed, if any trouble tickets were related to wring problems the tech would have used whatever wire he had to correct and broken wires, etc,  Best to follow and document each before changing anything.  I have seen cables start as one set of colors on one end and come out a different on the other.  

Hope this helps. LMK if you still have problems. I know it's clear as mud, but take each sections and mull it over and the light will come on, trust me!

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TBill gave good info but possibly made it more confusing for you. 

What you need is some to run a jack from the wall near the modem and wire it to the 66 block. Then you just plug a line cord into the wall from the modem. That simple. 

I have the tools and most equipment. If your close, you can borrow and I may be able to help. 

Funny, I gave the house wired and use cordless everywhere. Just easier. Only reason to hardware something is the alarm. 

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Its 6 pin and the unused wire is is just wrapped around the sheathing.  Yes I need to bridge across the pins somehow. How do I go across the pins and have a RJ jack on the side that will lead to the modem?    I'd like to try to do it myself unless the punch tool is necessary.   I will attach a pic tonight.   It's a 66B

Is there such thing as a RJ plug that snaps onto those pins?

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20 minutes ago, Barms said:

Is there such thing as a RJ plug that snaps onto those pins?

Yes, Google  Hubbell br866jc modular 66 Patch Panel block adapter. It sounds like all you are trying to do is back feed Optimum Voice into your existing house wiring. If that's the case you just need to disconnect the old Telco source and connect your OV modem. I added two images, the first could split off a second line, image #2 is probably all you need unless you have two lines. A little creative wiring and you're done 

1.jpg

2.jpg

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To clarify more.  My end goal is to have a female RJ jack added to that block.  If that wasn't clear.  I want to connect the female modem side to to block with a male to make POT wire.

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FXD I think that will do it !   So my guess is that that plug I have to match up to the pins that go to the kitchen wall line.  I will try to make that first.   Then if I want other rooms I'm going to have to cross jumper them somehow right ?

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Depending on your house wiring that should do it, just put a standard line cord between the OV modem and that br866jc.  Place the top two holes on the 66block phone line you want to activate. The line cord between the modem and adapter provide dial tone to the center pins also known as Pair #1.

On my block I used jumper clips and ran a wire to all the locations I wanted connected. Punch down tools could either punch down & cut,  or punch down and let you continue the line as a jumper. The better punch down tools have the reversible blade for this. Previously I had two lines so I had jumpers all over but just down to one line now

Again you need to lift off the old Telco source such as a Verizon hand off. Also if you have a home alarm system as mentioned above you must take into account for the RJ31-X (alarm jack) if you don’t have Telco monitoring it should be a very easy cross-connect for you.

Edit:

As an alternative if you don’t have alarm monitoring and the Modem is near a phone jack (away from the 66 block) you could get a line 1 splitter and back feed the OV line into any jack and that will provide dial tone to all jacks on that line. So the male side of the Line1/Line1 splitter would go into the Telco jack and one of the two female ports would be for the modem and the other would be for the phone and that would back-feed the other jacks. 

 

 

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This info will help:   It's a new house.  The guy who wired the house ran the POT from the rooms all down to the basement and fed them onto the block and ended it there.  I guess the iseas was to leave it open ended for homeowner to decide optiimum or VZ.   So here I am with a wired block and a modem and I just want to connect the two.  So remember there is no "original" phone connection.   The alarm is all cellular.

do I plug the Hubble adaptor onto the pins horizontal or vertical?  I'm guessing vertical right i want to make contact with at least two of the 4 wire POT right?  I don't need to touch the pins on the "other side" of block because I'm just melding the modem to the POT wire coming from upstairs.  Right ?

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On the 66 block it should start with white/blue, blue, white orange, orange, white green, green, white brown and lastly brown. If you get the Hubble br866jc you just need to straddle the top white blue & blue with the top two slots with the br866jc then I guess make some jumpers for the additional jacks you want to activate.

Typically the Blue is always Line 1, if you don’t use a second line you should be good to go.  Line 2 is usually on green but there are two standards, T568B and T568A which simply reverses pairs 2 & 3. I always use the T568B standard but I could make one work with the other if needed. I only mention this if you have or decide to add a second line.

Looking at the image this is a RJ45 8 pinout. the br866jc can accept the RJ11 four pin or the 8 pin RJ45.   It’s all about the pinout configuration. Pins 4&5 (center) in the image are your Line 1 on the RJ11 male & female


T568 standards.PNG

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For the RJ45 pinout - use the B pinout.  Pretty much everyone that does low voltage uses the B Pinout now.

I had my house wired for CAT5e and I had to punch down everything.  I have some extra RJ45 keystones if you need.  I have a whole CAT5e 12-port patch panel block I'm wiring into my house too.

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KRD you lost me there.  But the CAT5 nuances you mentioned don't matter for this.   The CAT5 wired in the hiuse all goes to a separate block.   My ordeal right now is regular ol POT.   The back of modem is POT I just need a POT female on the block.  I just ordered the Hubble it will arrive in 2 days.  

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20 hours ago, Barms said:

KRD you lost me there.  But the CAT5 nuances you mentioned don't matter for this.   The CAT5 wired in the hiuse all goes to a separate block.   My ordeal right now is regular ol POT.   The back of modem is POT I just need a POT female on the block.  I just ordered the Hubble it will arrive in 2 days.  

I explained to you how to do this in my post above. 

 

Where in nj are you?

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That’s a mini block like the R66CB1-6 and unfortunately Hubble I suggested will only fit the full size 25 pair 66 block as in the picture I posted earlier. I  probably should have showed the full-size but was focusing  on the adapter itself. A this point if are going to stick with the mini block just get a standard RJ11 or RJ45 phone jack and mount near the block and run a jumper from the jack to the block and punch it down on your 66 block which kind of goes which your original plan.  Then just run you line cord from the modem to the jack and run your jumpers.

With all due respect there was really no point in running the CAT5 if they were just going to use Pair #1 (blue) and abandon pairs 2 thru 4 (Orange, Green & Brown)  and just leave them hanging. You could have just used regular of P.O.T.S four conductor RED, Green, Black and Yellow, if you could still buy it

You have 6 lines showing on the block and all appear to be four pair CAT5. If that’s the case and you went with the full size 25 pair block you could have started at the top and punched down ALL 6 cables @ 8 conductor each and used 48 out of the 50 pins and had two pins remaining on the full size 66 block. (actually the S66M1-50 is split block and it is 25 pair on each side but that’s another story depending on how its used).

Not that you’re going to do it but if you wanted to add a second line you at one of the locations served by one of those 6 lines you are already out of space with the mini block if your intent is keeping those  six lines in place. You would have to go back and uncoil the wires and find another  place for or just get the 25 pair block. Regardless if you replace the mini block with a full size block and use the Hubble, or the RJ11 Jack you still with have to weave a jumper thru the either punch down block to active any of those 6 lines.

 

EDIT: Here you go, I did a model for you. Note the blue pair running thru the six lines for the jumper. You will have to do something similar even if you keep the mini block, It connects all Line 1’s together.

I terminated the jumper on last two pins so I could demonstrate how to connect and RJ11 or RJ45 jack in case I didn’t have a Hubble adapter and want to use a standard jack.  I didn’t have an RJ11 so I used a dual port rj45 for the example. If you went with the Hubble on the full size 66 in theory you could place the Hubble anywhere on the block where the jumper is. Personally I would use the full 66 block but it’s your house and you could do it however you like. Either way you’re within striking distance of getting it to work.

 

 

 

hubble_66blk_jumpers.jpg

jumper.JPG

RJ_to_66.jpg

six_lines.jpg

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