MartyZ

Need help from Chevy or GM mechanic

42 posts in this topic

Just to start let me say that I worked my way thru high school and college as a mechanic and have been working on my own cars ever since, so this information is very perplexing for me and I need help.

So, i'm getting ready to change out the brake pads and rotors on my car, 2015 Camaro ls, ordered the pads, rotors, and fixed my leaking jack. While doing some more research I come across many online posts that state that the caliper bracket bolts, which secure the caliper bracket to the upright need to be replaced because they are TTY and are one time use only, according to GM. Ok, i'm fine with that, in the hundreds of brake jobs that I have done I have never replaced those bolts, but ok, not a problem. So I call one Chevy dealer, not in stock, another dealer, not in stock, 10 Chevy dealers and not a single one of them have these bolts in stock. It's not a problem ordering them but it makes me wonder, if GM recommends changing out these bolts, and they are a replacement part for any standard brake job, weather the rotor is being replaced or turned, then why don't any dealers have them in stock? Seams kind of counter intuitive.

So let me ask the professionals here who are much wiser then me in these matters. Do these bolts really need to be swapped out? And are dealers swapping them out when performing brake jobs, if they don't have them in stock?

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You asking for the part number or the part by VIN or year/model? GM likes discontinuing certain part numbers for some cars... and leave the old ones for others. Eventually, they standardize them... but a 2015 is likely not to that point.

Just figured I'd point it out, in case you find out it is a different part number. And always double check eBay... $60 parts are usually on there in the $20 area.

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Just now, Screwball said:

You asking for the part number or the part by VIN or year/model? GM likes discontinuing certain part numbers for some cars... and leave the old ones for others. Eventually, they standardize them... but a 2015 is likely not to that point.

Just figured I'd point it out, in case you find out it is a different part number. And always double check eBay... $60 parts are usually on there in the $20 area.

Yeah, I check. Got part numbers from 4 of the dealers and all match, but not a single NJ dealer has them in stock and they average $10 each, and I need 8. They are more expensive on ebay. Found them in stock at some mid-west dealers for about $6 each. But that still doesn't explain why they wouldn't have them in stock if they are a required replacement parts for brake jobs. Even the guide rod bolts are required replacement parts and the dealers don't have them in stock either, at $12 each. But those I found aftermarket for $5 for the wheel set, guide rods and bolts.

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37 minutes ago, MartyZ said:

Yeah, I check. Got part numbers from 4 of the dealers and all match, but not a single NJ dealer has them in stock and they average $10 each, and I need 8. They are more expensive on ebay. Found them in stock at some mid-west dealers for about $6 each. But that still doesn't explain why they wouldn't have them in stock if they are a required replacement parts for brake jobs. Even the guide rod bolts are required replacement parts and the dealers don't have them in stock either, at $12 each. But those I found aftermarket for $5 for the wheel set, guide rods and bolts.

DID YOU check mall chevy in cherry hill? harvey  there is pretty dam good at finding things for people

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I think his question is less about the availability of the parts ..... but more as to why the local Chevy dealers do NOT have the parts in stock since they are needed to properly perform a brake job.....

So either they are NOT TTY or these dealers are tempting fate and reusing the bolts.....

This is why I said to ask either a Service Manager or maybe the Parts Manager to clarify the need to replace these parts during a routine Brake Job/Rotor Replacement. 

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My 1st thought is Supply & Demand. $$$$  $10 a piece. Dealers dream makes sense why none have in stock.. 

Other thoughts Alibaba. Amazon

Although at $5 a set... I'd be laughing all the way to my mail box.  lol 

Hope all works out for ya.   

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Yeah, everything I've read says TTY and GM recommends chamging them. That's why I was surprised and confused when I heard dealers don't stock them. That is why I am asking hear, trying to dig a little further. Finding and buying them is not the issue. The issue is, due I really need to replace them. Logically I do, but reading many people using loctite and dealers not stocking them makes me think that GM is just trying to make a profit by requiring an additional $160 worth of bolts for what should be a $300 brake job.

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4 hours ago, 67gtonut said:

I think his question is less about the availability of the parts ..... but more as to why the local Chevy dealers do NOT have the parts in stock since they are needed to properly perform a brake job.....

So either they are NOT TTY or these dealers are tempting fate and reusing the bolts.....

This is why I said to ask either a Service Manager or maybe the Parts Manager to clarify the need to replace these parts during a routine Brake Job/Rotor Replacement. 

in that instance....they're either doing a TON of brake jobs on camaros, or they're begging for trouble and not replacing those bolts.

 

 that said i haven't worked on one of these yet. just looked up the procedure.....caliper bracker torque=30#ft +90 degrees.

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3 minutes ago, 1LtCAP said:

in that instance....they're either doing a TON of brake jobs on camaros, or they're begging for trouble and not replacing those bolts.

 

 that said i haven't worked on one of these yet. just looked up the procedure.....caliper bracker torque=30#ft +90 degrees.

Yep...... sure sign it is a TTY bolt.... Replace them!!!!

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1 minute ago, fishnut said:

I wonder if they are saying the bolts are not in stock in hopes that you will pay them to do the job.

There is a reason they are referred to stealerships

I'm thinking the same thing. Also the fact that they are charging twice as much as some mid-west dealers only supports that fact.

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The dealer might not be removing those bracket and bolts when doing break jobs.

They remove one of the slider pins holding the caliper, slide out the pads, slide new ones in.

As for turning the rotors, they have something that bolts directly to the rotor/lugs while rotors are still on the car and true's them up without removing them, so no need to remove the brackets at that point.

 

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I have another question. What are your thoughts of just torquing these bolts (new bolts) and not putting the angle on them. They have thread locker pre-applied so they shouldn't loosen. But will that somehow weaken it? Just thinking of future re-use.

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1 hour ago, MartyZ said:

I have another question. What are your thoughts of just torquing these bolts (new bolts) and not putting the angle on them. They have thread locker pre-applied so they shouldn't loosen. But will that somehow weaken it? Just thinking of future re-use.

Tty is one use only. Brakes are more important than the motor imho

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I'm not saying reusing old bolts that have already been torqued to yield. I am saying, brand new bolts, do they have to be torqued to yield? Is the reason for torquing to yield to prevent loosening or for added strength?

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3 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Both

and they stretch( yield) 

what torque would you use? 

As per GM manual, fronts are tongued at 44 and rears at 30. Both require 90 degrees. These are the bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the upright, not the slide pin bolts.

 

The funny thing is that these new bolts have no indication on them that they are TTY, Factory GM bolts. Only stamp on them is "10.9"

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1 minute ago, MartyZ said:

As per GM manual, fronts are tongued at 44 and rears at 30. Both require 90 degrees. These are the bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the upright, not the slide pin bolts.

I'd jus do it right.

to each his own

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1 hour ago, MartyZ said:

I'm not saying reusing old bolts that have already been torqued to yield. I am saying, brand new bolts, do they have to be torqued to yield? Is the reason for torquing to yield to prevent loosening or for added strength?

NO. do it right. if you don't do the extra degrees they will not have the correct clamping force.

i'm not trying to be a dick....but.....do it right or don't do it. brakes aren't something to experiment with.

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I changed my brakes today, couldn't get the bolts to 90 degrees, only got them to 60 degrees and wouldn't go any further. Using an 18 inch breaker bar and the bolts just wouldn't go any further. I did however have the car up on ramps and couldn't use a longer bar for better leverage. I did drive around for about 20 miles after bedding the brakes and everything looks good. I will need to get it to my local shop, get it up on a lift, and use a longer bar to take the bolts down another 30 degrees. But honestly, this is the dumbest design i have ever seen. TTY for head bolts and other engine parts I understand, but caliper brackets makes absolutely no sense.

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