This semi-old house

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

So I bought my first house and as I start on various projects I'm coming up with questions.  Generally everyone here impresses me with their practical knowledge, so figured I'd start asking "how do I" or "what do you recommend" questions here.

First question - Lower level of the house is all concrete block (a 2 car garage with a walkway to a smaller workshop area, and then separated by a concrete block wall from a one car garage.

The workshop had a bunch of shelving affixed to the wall that was all dry-rotted crumbly wood from the 70's with really odd shapes, so I tore it all off the walls.  The wood pulled away from the concrete fasteners, so the wall is still sprinkled with probably a hundred or so concrete fasteners.

The fasteners look like big nails with spiral grooves running down the length of them - like these, only longer and rustier:
 

 

So after getting all the wood down, I started to take a crowbar to the fasteners and found that they don't smoothly pull out of the concrete block wall, they *explode* out in a shower of concrete dust and leave a crater in the wall.  I'm concerned that pulling out a hundred of them out with the resulting craters might actually weaken the wall.

Any suggestion on how I get these out without turning the wall into a moonscape?  My first thought is to get an abrasive cutoff wheel and just cut them all off flush with the wall instead of trying to pull them out.

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

Next question - apparently the larger 2 car garage/workshop was built first, and then the section with the 1 car garage was built second, because in the wall between the 2 garages there is a window:

 

Apparently that used to be an exterior wall...

I'd really like to be able to walk between the garages without having to go out the garage doors, so I'd like to remove the window and turn the window opening into a walkway, perhaps even with a door.

Is that something I can even entertain tackling myself (I don't have any masonry/foundation/structural knowledge, or masonry/concrete cutting tools), or should I be going straight to looking for a contractor?

[Lambo2936 297]

1: Yes, try an angle grinder; that may be a better idea..
2: I Would advise against doing it yourself. You really have to see if that wall is holding weight. If so, it has to be properly braced to support the load as the hole youd be knocking in the wall is probably going to be larger than the window.

[T Bill 649]

Just  cut the nails off.  No way to remove them without making a mess.  Need to mount something to the block wall get Tapcon masonry screws.  Yes you could put in a door but you will need a lintel over the door opening to support the weight.  Most all outside walls are load bearing because it is supporting the roof.  By the picture it looks like a half block lintel may already be in place, can't really tell by the picture.  Your door opening should be sized for a standard door otherwise you will pay dearly for a custom size.

[glockncolts 48]

My thinking is if it was really supporting any weight the window would of easily cracked yrs ago. I would go ahead and remove block below window with a saw.

[diamondd817 826]

You won't need to support anything. There is no weight on the window otherwise it would have collapsed a long time ago. Remove window and cut the block underneath with a mason blade on your circular saw. Cut each side even with opening. Punch out block with hammer. Trim edges with a chisel. Install door and jamb. Done.

[diamondd817 826]

As far as nails go, as said, just grind them off. Patch with mortar if needed. Repaint wall.  Done.

[maintenanceguy 510]

Nails: Cut off wheel on angle grinder. 

Door:  diamondd817 nailed it above (no pun intended)

Looks like the opening from top of window to floor is about 82 inches and window width is about 40.  This is big enough to fit a 3'-0" x 6'-8" door in a wooden frame.

After making sure there is no electric or plumbing in the wall under the window, do as diamond suggested.  Pad out the opening using framing lumber to make the opening the proper size for your new door and frame.  Hang the door and frame on the new framing lumber.  Find trim wide enough to cover the edges of the padding you installed or just rip 1x pine to the proper width.  Paint and done.

If this is a garage, it won't meet code.  You need a fire rated separation between a garage and house.  But, I see framing lumber on top of the wall and you have a window so you're no where close to code now.  A door won't be any worse and if you're fine with it, I'm fine with it.

[BobA 1,235]

Put a carborundum blade in your circular saw and go to town on the cider blocks.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7-in-x-1-8-in-Masonry-Abrasive-Saw-Blade-Bulk-DW3521/202579871 

And I wouldn't put a door, it'll just take up space.

[siderman 1,136]

just keep in mind when cutting the block there will be a LOT of dust so plan ventilation/breathing for that but still expect everything inside to get dusted.....

[BobA 1,235]

Also the blade shrinks as you cut.  You'll probably need about 4.  

[Zeke 5,504]

21 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

So I bought my first house and as I start on various projects I'm coming up with questions.  Generally everyone here impresses me with their practical knowledge, so figured I'd start asking "how do I" or "what do you recommend" questions here.

First question - Lower level of the house is all concrete block (a 2 car garage with a walkway to a smaller workshop area, and then separated by a concrete block wall from a one car garage.

The workshop had a bunch of shelving affixed to the wall that was all dry-rotted crumbly wood from the 70's with really odd shapes, so I tore it all off the walls.  The wood pulled away from the concrete fasteners, so the wall is still sprinkled with probably a hundred or so concrete fasteners.

The fasteners look like big nails with spiral grooves running down the length of them - like these, only longer and rustier:
 

 

So after getting all the wood down, I started to take a crowbar to the fasteners and found that they don't smoothly pull out of the concrete block wall, they *explode* out in a shower of concrete dust and leave a crater in the wall.  I'm concerned that pulling out a hundred of them out with the resulting craters might actually weaken the wall.

Any suggestion on how I get these out without turning the wall into a moonscape?  My first thought is to get an abrasive cutoff wheel and just cut them all off flush with the wall instead of trying to pull them out.

Sometimes you hit them up down left right and loosen or snap. The are case hardened. Grinder works also as a sure bet.

 

[Zeke 5,504]

21 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

Next question - apparently the larger 2 car garage/workshop was built first, and then the section with the 1 car garage was built second, because in the wall between the 2 garages there is a window:

 

Apparently that used to be an exterior wall...

I'd really like to be able to walk between the garages without having to go out the garage doors, so I'd like to remove the window and turn the window opening into a walkway, perhaps even with a door.

Is that something I can even entertain tackling myself (I don't have any masonry/foundation/structural knowledge, or masonry/concrete cutting tools), or should I be going straight to looking for a contractor?

Ktm muscle!!

Your gtg. Your pita is going to be leveling the floors on the egress. I'll almost guarantee the 2 aren't close in elevation

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

Nails - bought an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel tonight, tried it out, works great.  Sparks!

Garage window/door - That "framing lumber" is just some kind of shelf remnant nailed to the concrete - the ceiling is actually finished off and painted.  According to my neighbor the garge ceilings are "double rocked as required for fire protection" as he was present when the previous owner built the upstairs living area.

A little more background - 1st floor of house is concrete block walls on slab.  All garage/workshop space on the first floor.  2nd floor is wood frame and is the living area.  Apparently the 2 car garage/workshop was built first, then the 1 car garage and 2nd floor was added later.

I am concerned about cutting the block myself and then not being to code/passing inspection when it comes time to sell the place 8-10 years down the road.

[Zeke 5,504]

12 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Nails - bought an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel tonight, tried it out, works great.  Sparks!

Garage window/door - That "framing lumber" is just some kind of shelf remnant nailed to the concrete - the ceiling is actually finished off and painted.  According to my neighbor the garge ceilings are "double rocked as required for fire protection" as he was present when the previous owner built the upstairs living area.

A little more background - 1st floor of house is concrete block walls on slab.  All garage/workshop space on the first floor.  2nd floor is wood frame and is the living area.  Apparently the 2 car garage/workshop was built first, then the 1 car garage and 2nd floor was added later.

I am concerned about cutting the block myself and then not being to code/passing inspection when it comes time to sell the place 8-10 years down the road.

Meh, It could use a lintel(s), and parge your cuts... I'd worry bout it in 8-10 years

[siderman 1,136]

codes typically come into effect only if you make the existing opening wider which may cause concern about the header/lintel. Get a fire rated door and that should be only issue. However if your concerned about codes just talk to the construction official, nothing wrong with doing proper research.

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

New question - scored a "shop sink" at a yard sale, exactly the same as this:

 

 

Would like to put it in my utility room where I have existing clothes washer hookup and drain:

Is there a "tap" fitting I can use to get hold and cold water to the shop sink and still hook up washer for water supply also?

How could I hook up the shop sink PVC drain pipe to the existing copper drain and still be able to use it for a washer drain too?

 

 

 

[Zeke 5,504]

34 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

New question - scored a "shop sink" at a yard sale, exactly the same as this:

 

 

Would like to put it in my utility room where I have existing clothes washer hookup and drain:

Is there a "tap" fitting I can use to get hold and cold water to the shop sink and still hook up washer for water supply also?

How could I hook up the shop sink PVC drain pipe to the existing copper drain and still be able to use it for a washer drain too?

 

 

 

Fernco and y the traps.. metal sleeve fernco is wall bury compliant( you don’t need that). 

T hot and cold. ( regular hose t will work)

 

 

 

[Zeke 5,504]

On 9/27/2017 at 6:28 AM, siderman said:

codes typically come into effect only if you make the existing opening wider which may cause concern about the header/lintel. Get a fire rated door and that should be only issue. However if your concerned about codes just talk to the construction official, nothing wrong with doing proper research.

Only needs fire door going to living space 

if this is just egress between 2 garage bays. Pfft.

 

[Brisco 130]

Cut in a couple of 1/2" copper tees, pipe it down and use supply stops for the new sink.

For the waste, use the 1 1/2" copper line  with a new trap, if it is low enough. Drain the washer into the new sink.

The 1 1/2' copper is too small for many of the newer washers anyway. Code has been requiring us to use 2" for washer standpipes for years now. Many times I will install a sink to catch the washer waste if increasing the piping is not feasible.

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

On 9/25/2017 at 10:01 PM, DirtyDigz said:

Next question - apparently the larger 2 car garage/workshop was built first, and then the section with the 1 car garage was built second, because in the wall between the 2 garages there is a window:

 

Apparently that used to be an exterior wall...

I'd really like to be able to walk between the garages without having to go out the garage doors, so I'd like to remove the window and turn the window opening into a walkway, perhaps even with a door.

Is that something I can even entertain tackling myself (I don't have any masonry/foundation/structural knowledge, or masonry/concrete cutting tools), or should I be going straight to looking for a contractor?

Great success in turning the window into a walkway.  Once I ripped the window and frame out I discovered there was a metal lintel above the top of the window.  Score!

GF's friend's BF is a mason, so he came over with a big ass gas-powered concrete drill.  4 cuts (2 on either side) and a whack with a sledge hammer and the lower wall section fell over.  Cleaned up the edges with a power chisel.
 

Turns out the 2 garage floors are nearly level with each other (level set across the gap has the bubble within the lines). Score^2.

Now just waiting for it to warm up a bit to pour in some concrete into the floor gap.

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

New problem discovered when cutting the concrete - garage floor drain is blocked, and probably has been for years (as evidenced by severe corrosion of the drain grate and the visible upper portion of the pipe).  Tried sticking some wire coat hanger down, feels like it hits something solid about one foot down.

Should I go rent an electric snake/auger thing to try and clear it?

[Zeke 5,504]

13 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

New problem discovered when cutting the concrete - garage floor drain is blocked, and probably has been for years (as evidenced by severe corrosion of the drain grate and the visible upper portion of the pipe).  Tried sticking some wire coat hanger down, feels like it hits something solid about one foot down.

Should I go rent an electric snake/auger thing to try and clear it?

Hook up with @EWC88

lol

[T Bill 649]

Drain may have no pipe to snake. Most were just drains set into the concrete to drain under slab.  May have an abundance of floor crap built up in the slab bed.  Careful what you wish for. I have seen drain water erode and settle the stone base leaving a giant air pocket under the slab that collapses with time.

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

House now has natural gas service.  New carrier gas furnace installed in attic just before the cold snap.  Not ideal, I know, but got quotes from 4 different companies and they all recommended attic install.

So, gas line runs up to attic to feed furnace and drops down into kitchen to supply a stove, but I also had them run a gas supply line into ground level utility room.

I have to get a plumber out to hook up a clothes dryer to the gas line in the utility room.  Electric water heater is in the same room.  Should I bite the bullet and get a gas water heater too while I'm at it?  Tankless?  Utility room is tiny, so I'd love to get space back by putting a tankless water heater on the wall.

[Slab Sides 20]

I was going to buy a oil/electric house over the summer.  Called NJNG about converting to gas.  Free service line and appliance install if I bought appliances from them.  

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

52 minutes ago, Slab Sides said:

I was going to buy a oil/electric house over the summer.  Called NJNG about converting to gas.  Free service line and appliance install if I bought appliances from them.  

Yep, already collected all of NJNG’s rebates on the gas line install/conversion from electric to gas heat.

[Handyman 5,682]

Plumbers on here will be able to tell you better, but tankless depends on how much hot water you need to draw at any given time. You can run a hot shower essentially infinitely but you might not be able to shower and run a washing machine or dishwasher at the same time.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

5 minutes ago, Handyman said:

... You can run a hot shower essentially infinitely but you might not be able to shower and run a washing machine or dishwasher at the same time.

I’m ok with this.  Majority of the time it’s just me at the house, so I can space out shower/dishwasher/washer use.

[ted527 21]

Whether you can go tankless depends on size of gas line and having a way to vent the flue.