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DirtyDigz

This semi-old house

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wouldnt hurt to pour some salt down the pipe if its a waiting game. if its a vertical plug nearby could eat it away. But like Tbill said most likelily the horizontal run is froze maybe even outside the house.

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What’s a curb box?

 

How you turn the water on and off to the house at the street. Look for blue line on the street. Curb box should have cover and inside of cover a threaded cap. See if there is anything noticeable there. It should be in line with blue line 3-5 feet in from the street.

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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I waited at my place until ~11 last night, then exfil'd to the GF's place so I could Sh & Sh.

I came back the house this morning and found a service tag from the water company,  It says that they replaced the water meter.

Turned on the supply valve, heard the glorious rush of water running up the pipes, and then a couple seconds later got a nice pissing stream of water on my head - there's another "pushed apart" elbow coupling.  Gotta go to work now, but I should be able to re-flow that joint tonight.

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2 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

I waited at my place until ~11 last night, then exfil'd to the GF's place so I could Sh & Sh.

I came back the house this morning and found a service tag from the water company,  It says that they replaced the water meter.

Turned on the supply valve, heard the glorious rush of water running up the pipes, and then a couple seconds later got a nice pissing stream of water on my head - there's another "pushed apart" elbow coupling.  Gotta go to work now, but I should be able to re-flow that joint tonight.

Yay for water.  Quick Fix should get you back in shape now?

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10 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

That’s my fervent hope.

What thin material can I slip between the copper pipe and the wall so I can torch the pipe without scorching the wallboard?

Heat shield:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/9-in-x-12-in-Hands-Free-Heat-Shield-314002/100345508

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2 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

That’s my fervent hope.

What thin material can I slip between the copper pipe and the wall so I can torch the pipe without scorching the wallboard?

i use scraps of aluminum siding, flashing. or you can layer up some alum foil, a cookie sheet, alum pie plate.....

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Now onto electrical questions:

So I bought a couple of new outlets that have built-in USB ports with fast charging.

I cut the power to outlet in my bedroom and pulled out an old outlet - it has 2 pairs of hot (black) and neutral (white) wires connected to it.  The 2 hot wires screw down to two separate screws, but the screws are on a bus.  Same for the neutrals.

The new outlet only has one screw for hot and one screw for neutral.

How do I hook this up?  Combine the 2 hots/ 2 neutrals with a wire nut, and then run a “jumper” from the wire nut to the outlet screw?  Or try and mash down two wires under the one outlet screw?

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5 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Now onto electrical questions:

So I bought a couple of new outlets that have built-in USB ports with fast charging.

I cut the power to outlet in my bedroom and pulled out an old outlet - it has 2 pairs of hot (black) and neutral (white) wires connected to it.  The 2 hot wires screw down to two separate screws, but the screws are on a bus.  Same for the neutrals.

The new outlet only has one screw for hot and one screw for neutral.

How do I hook this up?  Combine the 2 hots/ 2 neutrals with a wire nut, and then run a “jumper” from the wire nut to the outlet screw?  Or try and mash down two wires under the one outlet screw?

Or look at the back the outlet 4 holes?

 

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10 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:



How do I hook this up?  Combine the 2 hots/ 2 neutrals with a wire nut, and then run a “jumper” from the wire nut to the outlet screw?  Or try and mash down two wires under the one outlet screw?

Yes, it's called a pigtail.   Wire nut 3 hots, 3 neutrals, 3 grounds, run the extra to the outlet.

As also mentioned, that USB outlet probably has a push in spot in the back. That said, I don't like to use those as they aren't as secure(I.e. loosen over time and create a fire hazard) as the "wrap around the nut" type connection.

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Malusa has got it covered. Avoid push in connectors and doubling up wires under screw terminals.  Wrap recepticle with 3 wraps electrical tape to stop possible shorts against terminals, wrap a piece of tape over wire nuts to keep in place as well.  No need to tape exposed ground wire.  On the old outlet make sure the copper "tab" is in place between the two screw heads (current can pass between them).  Image result for electrical outlet tab

 

This means circuit is passing through both outlets, if missing the top and bottom is wired from different power sources usually a switch.  Brass is the hot lead black, silver the ground white on the screws.

Image result for electrical pig tails

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Just to expand a little more, I like to have the connection stuffed way in the back of the box and just the pigtails sticking out.   Sometimes you find a box where there's too much wire and it feels like you're pulling out a rat's nest.

Also, you can use ground wire nuts that allow you to push the ground wire through the cap so you don't need to pigtail it.   You cut one ground shorter than the other, slide the wire nut over the long wire leaving a 3 inches or so sticking out of the top of the wire nut, stick the short wire in the nut and twist tight.

DO tighten the hell out of your wire nuts.  If you nicked the bare wire it'll often break.  This will teach you to strip properly :).

DO tape the wire nuts

DO run tape around the outside of the switch as Tbill suggested since the ground wire can move and touch a terminal when you stuff it in the box.

Don't exceed the box fill if you end up doing any new electric.  We just rebuilt our kitchen and some of the boxes had 3 12ga wires in them that nearly maxes out the box.  It's a real pain in the ass to wire and stuff in.   If you can swing the space for it, always get the biggest box that will fit.   It makes your life so much easier.

 

 

 

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Follow up on the pig tails - I ended up using 3 port connectors instead of wire nuts, saved on outlet box space and aggravation:

mRDcxLK_Sd8L0I-De9PLFtw.jpg

 

Next project - framing, insulating and drywall on bare concrete block garage walls.

So my bedroom ended up being the coldest room in the house this winter and I think it's because it's over the biggest unheated/uninsulated space - the "main" 2 car garage which has unfinished concrete block walls.

I've been gradually turning half of the garage into a home gym with and I want to minimize the space I lose to finishing out the walls, otherwise I may not be able to actually park a car in it.

I also want to be able to mount some heavy stuff to the walls (pull up bar/shelving), so I think I need to go with 2x4's instead of furring strips.

Any issue with framing out a wall with 2x4's flat against the wall, instead of on edge?  If I do that, should I go with rigid foam insulation sheets instead of fiberglass rolls?

 

 

 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Any issue with framing out a wall with 2x4's flat against the wall, instead of on edge?  If I do that, should I go with rigid foam insulation sheets instead of fiberglass rolls?

 

Doing that will do nothing to help make your bedroom warmer, if there isn't a heat source in the garage. Unheated with concrete walls or unheated with framed and insulated walls is the same thing. Cold.

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29 minutes ago, Sniper22 said:

Doing that will do nothing to help make your bedroom warmer, if there isn't a heat source in the garage. Unheated with concrete walls or unheated with framed and insulated walls is the same thing. Cold.

Assuming the ceiling/ bdrm floor is insulated.

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59 minutes ago, Sniper22 said:

Doing that will do nothing to help make your bedroom warmer, if there isn't a heat source in the garage. Unheated with concrete walls or unheated with framed and insulated walls is the same thing. Cold.

I may extend a natural gas line into the garage in the future and put in a hot dawg type gas heater there - It’s been *cold* working out there some mornings.

So, back on target - Drylock, pressure treated 2x4’s flat against walls - What Insulation do you recommend?

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25 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

I may extend a natural gas line into the garage in the future and put in a hot dawg type gas heater there - It’s been *cold* working out there some mornings.

So, back on target - Drylock, pressure treated 2x4’s flat against walls - What Insulation do you recommend?

In that 1-1/2 inch space - foam board, not many other choices, or spray foam, but that wouldn't be worth the cost and effort.

58 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Assuming the ceiling/ bdrm floor is insulated.

Still wouldn't matter if there is no heat source in the garage. 32 degrees uninsulated is still 32 degrees with sheetrock and insulation and no heat.

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13 minutes ago, Sniper22 said:

In that 1-1/2 inch space - foam board, not many other choices, or spray foam, but that wouldn't be worth the cost and effort.

Still wouldn't matter if there is no heat source in the garage. 32 degrees uninsulated is still 32 degrees with sheetrock and insulation and no heat.

But he’s concerned bout his bedtime. 

41 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

I may extend a natural gas line into the garage in the future and put in a hot dawg type gas heater there - It’s been *cold* working out there some mornings.

So, back on target - Drylock, pressure treated 2x4’s flat against walls - What Insulation do you recommend?

Is the ceiling insulated?

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1 hour ago, Zeke said:

Is the ceiling insulated?

Not sure - there is a double layer of sheetrock on the garage ceiling, but don't know if there is insulation between that and the 2nd floor bedroom.  There is an access panel in the garage ceiling for the bathroom drain pipe, will stick my head up in there later to see.

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10 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Not sure - there is a double layer of sheetrock on the garage ceiling, but don't know if there is insulation between that and the 2nd floor bedroom.  There is an access panel in the garage ceiling for the bathroom drain pipe, will stick my head up in there later to see.

I’d start there first.

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Plumbing question on GF's house - she had a basement bar with faucets/sinks.  Bar and sink have been removed for more open basement space.  I cut the copper water supply pipes off back behind the basement wall and capped them off, but the sink drain pipe remains.

Drain pipe from the sink is PVC and joins the main house drain via the following fitting (attached image), sink drain is on the right side..

What do I need to to to remove that drain pipe and plug the opening at the main drain fitting?  Not familiar with PVC drain plumbing, does it all unscrew or is it cemented together?

 

 

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