DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 1, 2020 1 minute ago, Handyman said: So with the water main on and the spigot turned off, it's leaking form the top vent with no dripping from the spout? Maybe. I can't swear that there is no leaking from the spout *IN ADDITION* to a big leak from the vent cap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handyman 5,682 Posted April 1, 2020 You'll have to wait for Capt or another real plumber to ring in. Sounds like prostate cancer to me... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 1, 2020 4 minutes ago, Handyman said: You'll have to wait for Capt or another real plumber to ring in. Sounds like prostate cancer to me... Your diagram helped though - if the stem washer on the faucet was sealing properly then it shouldn't leak at all, either out of the cap or the spout, when the faucet valve is turned off. So now to dig into whether that washer is serviceable/replaceable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handyman 5,682 Posted April 1, 2020 6 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said: So now to dig into whether that washer is serviceable/replaceable. It should be. Sometimes they get screwed up by someone melting them by trying to solder too close to them when they are installed. Shut off the water supply, grab the faucet body and hold it steady with a big adjustable wrench. You should be able to screw off the big nut under the faucet handle and pull the whole stem assembly out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 1, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Handyman said: It should be. Sometimes they get screwed up by someone melting them by trying to solder too close to them when they are installed. Or by someone just learning how to solder copper pipes to fix a break caused by a freeze in the middle of a historic cold snap?: Edited April 1, 2020 by DirtyDigz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handyman 5,682 Posted April 1, 2020 3 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said: Or by someone just learning how to solder copper pipes to fix a break caused by a freeze in the middle of a historic cold snap?: That might be it. Here's a video on how most of them come apart. Next time you solder a spigot, take the guts out so no heat near the rubber/plastic stuff. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shocker 150 Posted April 1, 2020 Those anti freeze faucets with the long-ass stem have always been problematic. If the stem is even slightly off center you need a nice supple gasket to shut off the wAter. When the gasket starts stiffening up it won’t seal any more ive tried disassembling one before to replace the gasket and could never find a replacement (I think mine was tapered). Ended up cutting the whole thing off and replacing it 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brisco 130 Posted April 1, 2020 Both the vacuum breaker (top round knob) and the stem/washer are usually repairable. There are four different styles for the vacuum breaker that I carry on the truck, many of the washers are standard faucet washers (1/4' or 00 size). The video above explains stem removal pretty good. The vacuum breaker is pretty simple too. That being said, I typically replace them. Especially if there is access on the inside. If you decide to go for it and get stuck, give me a call And, if your faucet is 1/4 turn style, don't even bother trying to fix it. Not a fan of those in that application. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 1, 2020 35 minutes ago, Brisco said: ... And, if your faucet is 1/4 turn style, don't even bother trying to fix it. Not a fan of those in that application. I think it is a quarter turn (the outside valve handle only turns a short distance.) So I should just go for a new one? Thanks for the offer of help, if I really get jammed up I’ll reach out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brisco 130 Posted April 1, 2020 If the old one is quarter turn, yes, just replace the whole thing. I've had really good luck with Prier multi-turn anti-freeze hose faucets. Just cut the old one out and measure before you go to the store. They come in 8, 10, 12, and 14" lengths. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scorpio64 5,147 Posted April 1, 2020 1 hour ago, DirtyDigz said: if I really get jammed up I’ll reach out. I have a MAPP gas torch and a damage waiver if you get desperate. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handyman 5,682 Posted April 1, 2020 Cutting takes too long. Just chain it to your bumper and drive away (3rd gear recommended). 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 1, 2020 55 minutes ago, Brisco said: If the old one is quarter turn, yes, just replace the whole thing. I've had really good luck with Prier multi-turn anti-freeze hose faucets. Just cut the old one out and measure before you go to the store. They come in 8, 10, 12, and 14" lengths. Ugh. Gate valves are the devil's ball sweat. 1/4 turn are ball valves. I can't tell you how many effing leaky gate valves I've replaced in my lifetime. I can tell you how many ball valves. 2. Both were in line on a 3 inch air dryer that runs at 120psi. They were roughly 25 years old. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handyman 5,682 Posted April 2, 2020 Conclusion: balls rule! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brisco 130 Posted April 2, 2020 13 hours ago, Malsua said: Ugh. Gate valves are the devil's ball sweat. 1/4 turn are ball valves. I can't tell you how many effing leaky gate valves I've replaced in my lifetime. I can tell you how many ball valves. 2. Both were in line on a 3 inch air dryer that runs at 120psi. They were roughly 25 years old. Use ball valves for everything else, even fixture stops. For hose hydrants, anti-freeze or even regular, use multi-turn. Gate valves are a different animal, they work fine unless you need to get to a different job or it's 4pm on Friday. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmittyMHS 603 Posted April 2, 2020 Working in a chemical plant for 30+ years I've replaced more gate valves then most. From 1/2" to valves that need a crane to lift into place. Almost all on a horizontal run with the stem up. Crap gets trapped in the seat over time and when you try to close it the crap keeps it from closing tight. People then over tighten it and on smaller valves that can damage the seat so it'll never seal again or worse yet, jam it closed. I've seen the stem ripped right out of the gate. Install with the stem at a 90~ or down and it'll last near forever. Around the house I would only use a ball valve as a shut off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted April 2, 2020 This house is looking like a death trap, yikes. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 2, 2020 4 hours ago, Brisco said: Use ball valves for everything else, even fixture stops. For hose hydrants, anti-freeze or even regular, use multi-turn. Gate valves are a different animal, they work fine unless you need to get to a different job or it's 4pm on Friday. If and only if that hose bibb is using a needle valve. I have both types on my house. The multi-turn drips unless I get it closed just right. Too tight or not tight enough and it leaks. I don't know what type of valve is in it, I just haven't bothered to replace it. The 1/4 turn ball valve works perfectly and doesn't leak or freeze. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 13, 2021 Couple of new projects: Driveway gravel replenishment - have a fairly long/wide driveway, let's call it 3,200 sq feet. Gravel is really sparse at the end of the driveway, but still has fair coverage near the house. Used a "gravel calculator" (https://www.inchcalculator.com/gravel-driveway-calculator/) to come up with an estimate of 19.8 yards / 26.7 tons for a depth of 2". Current gravel is 3/4" blue stone (I think). Called up closest gravel company (~6 miles away), their standard truck load is 22 tons, gave me a quote of $29/ton for the gravel, ~$790 including tax for 22 tons delivered. Questions: Decent price including delivery? Think I can get away with 22 tons vs the 27 calculated since I'm replenishing vs. all new? Should I go less than 22 tons? Is a "rolling dump" (there's your opening, Handyman) where the driver dribbles out the load (phrasing!) over the length of the driveway instead of dumping it all in one big pile a standard service for gravel delivery, or do I need to drop a $20 to the driver to get that done? Roofing - Current roof is ~40 years old and sprouting moss. It's past time for a new roof. I'm pretty sure the plywood sheathing is good, checked it at home inspection ~3 years ago and I've been in the attic recently, no moisture that I can see. Top floor bathroom currently does not have a vent. I'd like to add a vent up through the roof. Questions: Any recommendations for a roofing company in the Asbury Park area? What's the current hotness for shingles? Any particular brand/type? Makes sense to get the bathroom vent done at the same time as the new roof, right? I've got an attic fan (vertical through roof) that I like and is working well, but it's noisy. Should I consider replacing it at the same time as the roof work, or does it matter? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 13, 2021 As to gravel, before I paved, I dumped about 10 yards on mine over the years. 20 yards is a LOT of material. You say big driveway, how big in feet? 100 feet long 32 feet wide? 200 feet long, 16 feet wide? That is indeed a big driveway. Most truck drivers will try to spread it out as they pull away, but you tend to end up with one big pile and a few other small piles. Expect to rake a lot. You also need air clearance. No wires or trees up there. The cost is not bad for that amount of gravel, but it seems like a lot to me. As to shingles, just make sure they are good quality architectural and not 3 tab. 3 tabs tend to blow off whenever there is a hurricane that comes through. Timberline(GAF) shingles are really what you should get. Contractors in your area I can't help you with. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMJeepster 2,777 Posted April 13, 2021 17 minutes ago, Malsua said: Timberline(GAF) shingles are really what you should get. This. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 13, 2021 24 minutes ago, Malsua said: ... 20 yards is a LOT of material. You say big driveway, how big in feet? 100 feet long 32 feet wide? 200 feet long, 16 feet wide? That is indeed a big driveway. ... It's a a complex shape, but yeah, ~110 feet long at longest point. Here's how I calculated: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scorpio64 5,147 Posted April 13, 2021 5 hours ago, Malsua said: 20 yards is a LOT of material. 20 does seem like a lot, especially for a top dressing. If they drop 20 yards, and it's too much, you will have a serious problem. It's far easier to put down more than it is to scoop back up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 14, 2021 So whaddya think, get 15 yards to start? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eyeinstine 241 Posted April 14, 2021 Stone never seems to go as far as you think.. formula is 1 ton of stone will do a 100 sq. foot area (think 10'x10') at 2" deep. I would suggest 3/4" blend stone. Also known as DGA. It has 3/4" and smaller in it, and it packs much tighter than 3/4" clean. Firmer driveway, and people not spinning tires and flinging stone all over. 3/4" blend is the typical, commonly used driveway stone. Cost seems a little high. Call around. Or even check with a owner/operator. Any neighbors in the neighborhood that drive their own dump truck? They will usually stop and grab a load right from the quarry at the end of the day. Easy money for them, since they are driving home anyway. My last full load was done that way. $550 for 25 tons delivered. Granted, that was 15 years ago since i last needed a full load. Things have surely gone up since then. getting the driver to spread as he goes will depend on the individual driver.. Nice friendly driver; he can short chain the tailgate so it only opens a foot or so, and slowly drive ahead. Only if the overhead is clear of any obstructions... Miserable old fck of a driver; he'll just grunt at you and dump it in a pile and leave.. Good driver and does a nice spread; def throw him a 20.. As the others have said, GAF Timberline shingles. Pretty much the standard go to now a days.. Barely save anything going with old 3 tab shingles. Def get the vent put up through before the roof is done; or a the same time. If you have attic access, then talk to the roofer. He could drill the hole and attach the roof jack (vent) while he is shingling. You could go in the attic at a later date and make the vent pipe connection at your leasure. HTH 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 14, 2021 32 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said: So whaddya think, get 15 yards to start? I'd start with 10. As was said already, it's way better to add more than to have too much. You're also going to want to drive on it a bit and push it in. If it's too much to begin with you're going to make gravel ruts and such. I hate driving my car on drives with too much stone. You end up spinning wheels and tossing rocks. Personally I'd probably put a layer of QP down then 3/4 blue stone or whatever. The QP packs hard but moves out easy so if you don't like it, it's easy to change by just raking it up. I guess it just depends on how your stone currently is. If it looks like mostly dirt, with grass everywhere, then a QP base will make it nice and level for adding the good stone on top. If it just needs thickened up, then by all means put more of the regular stone down. Yards vs tonnage is getting my math messed up. 10 yards is about 25000lbs, I.e. 12.5 tons. $29/ton for 3/4" blue stone is a decent price. That's going to come out like $55/yard which is cheap. Those big tri-axle dumps hold 14 or so yards, so no matter what, you're not getting it all(22yards) in one unless it's a tractor trailer. You'll probably get it in a 10 yard dump, which is what most places that sell stone use. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scorpio64 5,147 Posted April 14, 2021 1 hour ago, DirtyDigz said: So whaddya think, get 15 yards to start? Hard to tell without seeing the driveway, but even 15 seems like a lot.. You have to poke around to see where it's thin and where you have too much already. You should rake down built up areas before you drop any stone. 8 hours ago, DirtyDigz said: Top floor bathroom currently does not have a vent. I'd like to add a vent up through the roof. Better off going through a wall. Every hole on a roof invites leaks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 14, 2021 Malsua tricked me into starting to quote "yards" instead of "tons". Back to TONS. Using my outstanding paint skills, I edited the photo to indicate areas with decent gravel coverage (green), very sparse gravel coverage (red), and almost bare dirt (hatched red). I gotta call today to get delivery before the weekend, so I'm going to go with 12 tons (a little less than 10 yards). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
siderman 1,137 Posted April 14, 2021 You're gonna hump, shovel and rake all that by hand? Good luck, especially if its qp, best product but a Bitch to shovel. Consider hiring a bobcat for a few hrs then fine tune by your manual labor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtyDigz 1,811 Posted April 16, 2021 10 tons 3/4 crushed gravel delivered, should have gone with more, will get another delivery in near future. Driver was super helpful and did multiple rolling drops to spread it out. Looks like I'm just going to be raking, not shoveling/wheelbarrowing: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites