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DirtyDigz

This semi-old house

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4 minutes ago, Handyman said:

You'll have to wait for Capt or another real plumber to ring in. Sounds like prostate cancer to me...

Your diagram helped though - if the stem washer on the faucet was sealing properly then it shouldn't leak at all, either out of the cap or the spout, when the faucet valve is turned off.

So now to dig into whether that washer is serviceable/replaceable.

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6 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

So now to dig into whether that washer is serviceable/replaceable.

It should be. Sometimes they get screwed up by someone melting them by trying to solder too close to them when they are installed. 

Shut off the water supply, grab the faucet body and hold it steady with a big adjustable wrench. You should be able to screw off the big nut under the faucet handle and pull the whole stem assembly out. 

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Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, Handyman said:

It should be. Sometimes they get screwed up by someone melting them by trying to solder too close to them when they are installed. 

 

Or by someone just learning how to solder copper pipes to fix a break caused by a freeze in the middle of a historic cold snap?:

 

 

Edited by DirtyDigz

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3 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Or by someone just learning how to solder copper pipes to fix a break caused by a freeze in the middle of a historic cold snap?:

That might be it. Here's a video on how most of them come apart. Next time you solder a spigot, take the guts out so no heat near the rubber/plastic stuff.

 

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Those anti freeze faucets with the long-ass stem have always been problematic. If the stem is even slightly off center you need a nice supple gasket to shut off the wAter.  When the gasket starts stiffening up it won’t seal any more

 

ive tried disassembling one before to replace the gasket and could never find a replacement (I think mine was tapered). Ended up cutting the whole thing off and replacing it

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Both the vacuum breaker (top round knob) and the stem/washer are usually repairable.

There are four different styles for the vacuum breaker that I carry on the truck, many of the washers are standard faucet washers (1/4' or 00 size).

The video above explains stem removal pretty good. The vacuum breaker is pretty simple too.

That being said, I typically replace them. Especially if there is access on the inside.

If you decide to go for it and get stuck, give me a call

And, if your faucet is 1/4 turn style, don't even bother trying to fix it. Not a fan of those in that application.

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35 minutes ago, Brisco said:

...

And, if your faucet is 1/4 turn style, don't even bother trying to fix it. Not a fan of those in that application.

I think it is a quarter turn (the outside valve handle only turns a short distance.)  So I should just go for a new one?

Thanks for the offer of help, if I really get jammed up I’ll reach out.

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If the old one is quarter turn, yes, just replace the whole thing.

I've had really good luck with Prier multi-turn anti-freeze hose faucets. Just cut the old one out and measure before you go to the store. They come in 8, 10, 12, and 14" lengths.

Image result for prier valves

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55 minutes ago, Brisco said:

If the old one is quarter turn, yes, just replace the whole thing.

I've had really good luck with Prier multi-turn anti-freeze hose faucets. Just cut the old one out and measure before you go to the store. They come in 8, 10, 12, and 14" lengths.

Image result for prier valves

Ugh.  Gate valves are the devil's ball sweat.   1/4 turn are ball valves.    I can't tell you how many effing leaky gate valves I've replaced in my lifetime.   I can tell you how many ball valves.  2.   Both were in line on a 3 inch air dryer that runs at 120psi.  They were roughly 25 years old. 

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13 hours ago, Malsua said:

Ugh.  Gate valves are the devil's ball sweat.   1/4 turn are ball valves.    I can't tell you how many effing leaky gate valves I've replaced in my lifetime.   I can tell you how many ball valves.  2.   Both were in line on a 3 inch air dryer that runs at 120psi.  They were roughly 25 years old. 

Use ball valves for everything else, even fixture stops. For hose hydrants, anti-freeze or even regular, use multi-turn.

Gate valves are a different animal, they work fine unless you need to get to a different job or it's 4pm on Friday.

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Working in a chemical plant for 30+ years I've replaced more gate valves then most. From 1/2" to valves that need a crane to lift into place. Almost all on a horizontal run with the stem up. Crap gets trapped in the seat over time and when you try to close it the crap keeps it from closing tight. People then over tighten it and on smaller valves that can damage the seat so it'll never seal again or worse yet, jam it closed. I've seen the stem ripped right out of the gate. Install with the stem at a 90~ or down and it'll last near forever. Around the house I would only use a ball valve as a shut off.

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4 hours ago, Brisco said:

Use ball valves for everything else, even fixture stops. For hose hydrants, anti-freeze or even regular, use multi-turn.

Gate valves are a different animal, they work fine unless you need to get to a different job or it's 4pm on Friday.

 

If and only if that hose bibb is using a needle valve.    I have both types on my house.  The multi-turn drips unless I get it closed just right.  Too tight or not tight enough and it leaks.   I don't know what type of valve is in it, I just haven't bothered to replace it.    The 1/4 turn ball valve works perfectly and doesn't leak or freeze.

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