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True. But they’re still just the physical layer (electrical/cable). 
My original point is that most media extenders don’t use the same logical protocols, even if they support the same cables. 
That's what I meant by I understood what you were saying. I think we are on the same page.

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As far as TV's go spend the extra money once. In the past when it came to LCD/LED I always went with the Sony XBR model. Then Sony started releasing half a dozen XBR models a year and none of them were great. Samsung 9000 Series became the go to TV. Then they started cutting corners to try and be the thinnest TV. 2 years ago the best TV was released 2 years prior (or 4 years ago). Last year LG was the clear leader IMO, but they are OLED. However they are the first TV's comparable to Pioneeer Elite and Panasonic Plasma's for Blacks. All non locally lit LEDs experience some degree of halo effect IMO.

 

If you want to get the best deal check Slickdeals.net or install the app.

 

Again this year it looks like LG is hands down the winner. Sony's $4k XBR-AE1 uses the same OLED panel made by LG in their flagship TV. As a matter of fact all the LG OLED TVs use the same panel. So there really is no reason to go above the LG B7 series. This is actually the first time I can remember saying I would even buy the Sam's Club or Costco LG B7 which has the same stand as the LG B7A but the ATMOS audio decoding of the C7A.

 

I would get whichever is cheaper between the B7 and B7A since you should have external speakers and a receiver handling the audio. The TV should only be for displaying the picture. For a receiver I have always been partial to Denon. Ever since most of the reasonably priced good sounding American Speaker companies went out of business I have used Paradigms.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, voyager9 said:

Be aware that some of these media extenders do not use pure network protocols so you can’t plug them into an existing home network/wiring (not that you’d want to).  Usually they’re a variant of HDBaseT which uses Ethernet but not the rest of the standard protocol stack. You’re best running dedicated Cat5e. 

“Be aware”?   Like it might not work or watch out you’ll fry something?   My home really not a “network”. It’s just that each room has a CAT5 wire running behind the walls all down to a central “manifold” gizmo.  My router and cable boxes are in that location.  I will use a wireless remote to work the cable box.  So do I have a “network” or do I have a delicates line?   My guess is the later. 

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7 minutes ago, Barms said:

“Be aware”?   Like it might not work or watch out you’ll fry something?   My home really not a “network”. It’s just that each room has a CAT5 wire running behind the walls all down to a central “manifold” gizmo.  My router and cable boxes are in that location.  I will use a wireless remote to work the cable box.  So do I have a “network” or do I have a delicates line?   My guess is the later. 

I didn’t look at the specific model liked above but usually these media converters have two “boxes”. One connects to the TV, one connects to your cable box over HDMI. A copper Ethernet cable connects the two boxes. The cable should go between the two boxes and not connect to your router. If you have a patch panel (“manifold gizmo”) you can still use that, just make sure the boxes are connected. 

Edit: realized my last sentence is garbage. You can connect both converter boxes to your patch panel, but from there they should be connected to each other, not to your router.  If I read your post right you’d have:

Cable box-(HDMI)-converterA-(wall Ethernet)-patch panel-(short Ethernet)-patch panel-(short Ethernet)-converterB-(HDMI)-Cable box. 

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Yes that’s exactly how it will run.   But just in case: I do have the house router connect to the patch panel too.  That’s for running internet to my office where I have the desktop hard wired and I have a Ubiquiti commercial grade WiFi extender. 

Sooooo. The panel does “connect” to a router but the router will not be part of this  “tv circuit”.    The router is just because I like the desk top to be hard wired and it was easier for me to have the wifi network dish upstairs. So I hope all is okay.  

 

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1 minute ago, Barms said:

Yes that’s exactly how it will run.   But just in case: I do have the house router connect to the patch panel too.  That’s for running internet to my office where I have the desktop hard wired and I have a Ubiquiti commercial grade WiFi extender. 

Sooooo. The panel does “connect” to a router but the router will not be part of this  “tv circuit”.    The router is just because I like the desk top to be hard wired and it was easier for me to have the wifi network dish upstairs. So I hope all is okay.  

 

Yes - just keep it separate from the regular computer network and you're fine.  Through the patch panel is fine as well as long as it's not patched to the Router.

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1 hour ago, Barms said:

Yes that’s exactly how it will run.   But just in case: I do have the house router connect to the patch panel too.  That’s for running internet to my office where I have the desktop hard wired and I have a Ubiquiti commercial grade WiFi extender. 

Sooooo. The panel does “connect” to a router but the router will not be part of this  “tv circuit”.    The router is just because I like the desk top to be hard wired and it was easier for me to have the wifi network dish upstairs. So I hope all is okay.  

 

Before I answer, want to make sure I’m correct.. you called it a “manifold gizmo” which I assumed was a patch panel... basically a single panel that all your house Ethernet wiring ends at... and you connect those ports to whatever you want.. your router (usually), each other, etc. it just makes Cable management easier. 

I would imagine every port on your router thst is used for a hard wired connection somewhere in the house (PC, WAP, etc) runs to the patch panel first. 

Youre right the HDMI extender(s) would be cabled to the patch panel, but independent of the router connections.  

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5 hours ago, capt14k said:

As far as TV's go spend the extra money once. In the past when it came to LCD/LED I always went with the Sony XBR model. Then Sony started releasing half a dozen XBR models a year and none of them were great. Samsung 9000 Series became the go to TV. Then they started cutting corners to try and be the thinnest TV. 2 years ago the best TV was released 2 years prior (or 4 years ago). Last year LG was the clear leader IMO, but they are OLED. However they are the first TV's comparable to Pioneeer Elite and Panasonic Plasma's for Blacks. All non locally lit LEDs experience some degree of halo effect IMO.

 

If you want to get the best deal check Slickdeals.net or install the app.

 

Again this year it looks like LG is hands down the winner. Sony's $4k XBR-AE1 uses the same OLED panel made by LG in their flagship TV. As a matter of fact all the LG OLED TVs use the same panel. So there really is no reason to go above the LG B7 series. This is actually the first time I can remember saying I would even buy the Sam's Club or Costco LG B7 which has the same stand as the LG B7A but the ATMOS audio decoding of the C7A.

 

I would get whichever is cheaper between the B7 and B7A since you should have external speakers and a receiver handling the audio. The TV should only be for displaying the picture. For a receiver I have always been partial to Denon. Ever since most of the reasonably priced good sounding American Speaker companies went out of business I have used Paradigms.

Agree with much of this (that I have knowledge of). Nothing ruins watching a movie or tv like having the worthless, tinny TV speakers putting out the audio. Don't skimp on speakers. The home theater in a box systems usually have tiny speakers not much better than the TV speakers (5 or 7 crappy speakers isn't really any better than 2 crappy speakers...)

I am partial to Definitive Technology speakers (i've got 10 so far.) I dunno your budget, but they hit way above their weight class, and many reviews say they rival speakers 2 to 4 times their price.  BP6B and studiomonitor series should be relatively affordable. Definitive also has a theater in a box system which I imagine would be quite decent. Best Buy Magnolia may have some to try out - you would be amazed the sound these fairly small speakers can put out. I have run Yamaha and Pioneer amps and been very happy with them, though now that I have a 4k tv, i am considering an upgrade since what i have only supports full hd.

I would rather (and do) run a great speaker setup with a so-so TV than an excellent TV with crappy audio.

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13 hours ago, capt14k said:

As far as TV's go spend the extra money once. In the past when it came to LCD/LED I always went with the Sony XBR model. Then Sony started releasing half a dozen XBR models a year and none of them were great. Samsung 9000 Series became the go to TV. Then they started cutting corners to try and be the thinnest TV. 2 years ago the best TV was released 2 years prior (or 4 years ago). Last year LG was the clear leader IMO, but they are OLED. However they are the first TV's comparable to Pioneeer Elite and Panasonic Plasma's for Blacks. All non locally lit LEDs experience some degree of halo effect IMO.

 

If you want to get the best deal check Slickdeals.net or install the app.

 

Again this year it looks like LG is hands down the winner. Sony's $4k XBR-AE1 uses the same OLED panel made by LG in their flagship TV. As a matter of fact all the LG OLED TVs use the same panel. So there really is no reason to go above the LG B7 series. This is actually the first time I can remember saying I would even buy the Sam's Club or Costco LG B7 which has the same stand as the LG B7A but the ATMOS audio decoding of the C7A.

 

I would get whichever is cheaper between the B7 and B7A since you should have external speakers and a receiver handling the audio. The TV should only be for displaying the picture. For a receiver I have always been partial to Denon. Ever since most of the reasonably priced good sounding American Speaker companies went out of business I have used Paradigms.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

funny you mention denon. i used to have an onkyo. it shit a brick. just bought a denon with onkyo speakers and subwoofer

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funny you mention denon. i used to have an onkyo. it shit a brick. just bought a denon with onkyo speakers and subwoofer
Denon and Marantz are the same company and IMO better than Onkyo and Integra.

Speakers I prefer Paradigm which they also make a good Receiver under the Anthem brand.

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Wow I didn’t know anybody else knew about Paradigms! Love mine
I used to be a Snell guy but they are no more. I have used the 3 way Paradigms for side surround going on 20 years. Now I use them for everything. No one can touch their subs.

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2 hours ago, Shocker said:

Wow I didn’t know anybody else knew about Paradigms! Love mine

I had a set for years.. Studio 5’s if I remember right. They continuously failed the WAF because they took up so much room.  Ended up giving them away and got a “5:1” sound bar that was easier to hide. 

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dam man, we've got a ton of knowledge about these in here.

 

 looking on costco's website right now at 60"+. what's QLED, OLED, ULED, XLED etc mean? also........is there REALLY any good reason/advantage to buy a curved one?

 

 this will end up being a wall mount. there's a window between the room it's going in and the front porch. a window that must've been put there by those drunken monkeys snorting crack n smokin' weed while tripping on lsd. it serves no purpose other than to make one wonder why it's there. accordingly, it's going away, and the tv's gonna be mounted there.

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dam man, we've got a ton of knowledge about these in here.
 
 looking on costco's website right now at 60"+. what's QLED, OLED, ULED, XLED etc mean? also........is there REALLY any good reason/advantage to buy a curved one?
 
 this will end up being a wall mount. there's a window between the room it's going in and the front porch. a window that must've been put there by those drunken monkeys snorting crack n smokin' weed while tripping on lsd. it serves no purpose other than to make one wonder why it's there. accordingly, it's going away, and the tv's gonna be mounted there.
The only one worth getting is OLED if you are willing to spend $1,500-2,500. The others are gimmicks. All OLED panels on the sets you will find in best buy, sams, Costco, etc are the same panel made by LG.

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so my update on using the HDMI booster to send HDMI over Ethernet..  I bought the JTEC in the link for $50.   it didn't work upon my first hookup. I then spent the next 60 minutes troubleshooting why "signal not found" was on my TV.   I looked online. tried various configuarations of powering on/off and resetting the transmitters.   No dice.   I then resorted to pulling the TV off the wall and carrying it all the way over to the cable box in other room to see if I had a bad wire behind the wall causing the problems..  I was able to get it to work.  So now the elimination was bad wires behind wall or bad cat5 or HDMI wires connecting the transmitters?..   again.. many minutes invested I figured it out that one of the Cat5e wires I was using was just not up to muster.  I ordered at Cat6 similar to the other Cat6 that I was using in the chain that made the short signal work directly next to the box...   it came yesterday and now the hookup works flawless as I wanted behind the walls.

Who knew that there are differences in the quality of Cat5e or Cat6 lines.   I've never heard of differnces in quality of coaxial cables.

 

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6 minutes ago, Barms said:

Who knew that there are differences in the quality of Cat5e or Cat6 lines.   I've never heard of differnces in quality of coaxial cables.

I’ve see plenty of bad coax cables... seeing bad signal strength at the Cable box, swap out the 20-year old cable and boom.  Note thst in your case the difference wasn’t cat5e vs cat6. Sounds like you just had a old/bad patch Cable or maybe an old cross-over Cable. There should be a link light on the two devices where the Ethernet cable connects thst tells you if they have a good connection. 

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so my update on using the HDMI booster to send HDMI over Ethernet..  I bought the JTEC in the link for $50.   it didn't work upon my first hookup. I then spent the next 60 minutes troubleshooting why "signal not found" was on my TV.   I looked online. tried various configuarations of powering on/off and resetting the transmitters.   No dice.   I then resorted to pulling the TV off the wall and carrying it all the way over to the cable box in other room to see if I had a bad wire behind the wall causing the problems..  I was able to get it to work.  So now the elimination was bad wires behind wall or bad cat5 or HDMI wires connecting the transmitters?..   again.. many minutes invested I figured it out that one of the Cat5e wires I was using was just not up to muster.  I ordered at Cat6 similar to the other Cat6 that I was using in the chain that made the short signal work directly next to the box...   it came yesterday and now the hookup works flawless as I wanted behind the walls. Who knew that there are differences in the quality of Cat5e or Cat6 lines.   I've never heard of differnces in quality of coaxial cables.   

 

 

  There is definitely differences in Coax cables. RG-59 definitely will not work with HDTV for Directv you have to use RG-6 and then there are different quality RG-6 cables. You need minimum RG-6 quad shield to work with Genie. Longer runs RG-7 or even RG-11 or the newer QR cables.

 

 

 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable

 

 

 

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