My question is, why were you clocking them so hard in the first place? I have probably eaten in a couple thousand restaurants in my life and could never tell you anything so detailed about something someone else ordered with the exception of it was carried passed my table and I said "Ummm that looks good". There must have been something that brought your attention to their table?
Fixed trigger group is much better than the previous version. Cleaner break and better let off and hardly any after travel. The upgrade is a definite plus. Find the grip size and color you like and you are set. Different slide and frame same trigger. Nice solution. Get a full and a compact kit and away you go. Of course we are neutered at 10 so there is a consideration. All in all. me like, big time. It does not shoot like a Crock 17,19, 22.
The funny thing is that when you start fishing from the shore, you cast toward the middle of the lake and wish you had a boat to get there. Then you get a boat and spend all your time cast toward the shore.
Based on what you're saying your film was severely underexposed. The negatives were pretty much clear weren't they? If overexposed they would be very dark.
If you were shooting f2.8 @ 1/100 with 200 iso in a darkened room that was underexposed. Most people don't realize the difference in the intensity of light. Bright sunlight is thousands of times brighter than average room light. Exposure for a brightly lit gym with 1600 iso would be f2.8-f4 at 1/250. A well lit office (much brighter than your average home lighting) would be f2.8-4 @ 1/30 with 400 iso.
I did a lot of available light photography. Theater, art, and surveillance photography. I used 1600 for color and 1600, 3200, or 6400 for black and white. Most times with b&w negative film it was push processed. For example 400 iso shot at 1600 by developing it longer. Some color slide films were capable of being push processed but never knew anyone really successfully pushing color negative film.
When you push process b&w film what you do is expand the tonal range in the negative. You can also shoot b&w at the rated iso and extend or shorten developing time to expand or contract the tonal range. That's getting into Ansel Adams and Minor White stuff that Adams popularized as the "Zone System of Exposure". Really way beyond what we're talking here. I did a bit of work with photographic chemistry.
All film has a certain degree of exposure latitude. It varies with different types of film. That's a range of over and under exposure where you good still get a decent print. 2 stops either way is very good. Slide films has much more narrow exposure latitude.
Using 200 speed film in a brightly lit office would call for f2 to F2.8 @ 1/30. Not knowing how much light your "darkened room" had, I would guess your exposure should have been 1/4 or 1/2 second with iso 200. You really should be using a tripod. You can't handhold at that speed without camera shake. If you're shooting anything that doesn't stay still you're going to get subject movement.
Try using faster film if you want to shoot low light. If you want to try black and white try Ilford XP2 film with a iso speed of 400. It is black and white film designed to be processed in C41 chemistry the same as color negative film. It can't be printed on color or black and white paper. It normally comes out sepia toned when printed on color paper but if the printer knows what they're doing they can adjust the filter pack in the enlarger to make true black and white.
Do yourself a favor and when you get color negative film processed pay the few bucks extra and have them cut a cd. Much easier to knock out a few extra small prints that way.