Screwball

Streamlight TLR-7... Awesome, then Crappy, and back to Awesome

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This might sound choppy, but I’m combining a few posts from other forums to make this thread. I feel it is definitely part review, part PSA, and part recommendation.

 

So, I got my TLR-7 in the other day...

 

hKI3W3N.jpg

 

If you buy one, check and see if the E-ring is installed. Don’t know if Streamlight doesn’t put it in so you can swap the key, but never had to install one on any of my other lights. Two come with it, as well as the tool to install/remove them, and the keys. Figured I’d mention it, as I unscrewed it all the way when I was looking it over.

 

The screw isn’t finger tightenable anymore. I do like it is flush, but a nickel is probably your best tool for the light. Definitely have to thank Medtronic for instilling four years of carrying a nickel for the battery compartment of my insulin pump, then switching to a design on the belt clip. Guess I’ll just keep a nickel around for my TLR-7, especially if I carry it.

 

Output is pretty good. My old light on the 30S was a TLR-3, so it is a big jump in Lumens. I also like the front battery loading, which likely would be beneficial for those going with the TLR-8. The lockout is nice, but it is just something I doubt I’ll ever use. Waterproof... it is nice, but never had an issue with the older designs that weren’t.

 

The switch... I’m definitely up in the air on. It isn’t the traditional Streamlight switch that I love. But I was looking at the XC1, due to size. Hoping this switch will do me well, but I do see some potential issues. I unlocked the strobe feature, and wasn’t sure how to in the instructions. I thought you had to turn the light on/off ten times, whereas you just hit the button quick as s***, and hold on the 10th time. When I was trying to turn it on/off, I did notice myself outrunning the switch (didn’t turn on/off when it should have due to press). Something I need to train on the light and see if it is an issue (doubt it, as the switch to strobe didn’t cause any issue), so just something to consider. My other concern will be holster interaction on the switches. Remember, you can push the switch forward or in to turn the light on. Pulling out of an holster can at least do the forward, and would likely be quick enough to turn the light on constant instead of momentary.

 

With that being said, here are some comparison pictures. My old light to the new... both I put the end of the frame at 3”, for reference. If you have a TLR-3, might be able to get some comparison before buying.

 

sLHNWhI.jpg

 

cS53Zfe.jpg

 

And some to show profile on my 30S...

 

vD2t8MV.jpg

 

7K2aaeJ.jpg

 

One thing I hated about the TLR-3 was how it was positioned. You have three keys, and the one for the Glock had a lot of room between the light and the trigger guard. The TLR-7 is pretty damn close to touching the guard. Plus, you have six keys to figure out what will work with your gun. The one installed from the factory fits Glocks (UNIV-1).

 

Fast forward a few days (actually yesterday when I found out about it), and I’m now unhappy with the light... but it likely will be taken care of.

 

 

Flickers on dropping the slide, as well as when dry-firing.

 

On AR15.com, a member contacted Streamlight. Said it is “anti-bounce software,” which powers the light off when a bounce is detected (for 4 milliseconds). Done to prevent the light from changing modes/shutting down.

 

Contacted Streamlight earlier today, and played dumb. Wanted to see what they are telling people when questioned. Left a voicemail with the service manager, but was promised by the rep that transferred me to him that he will get back to me. Not going to keep a light that does that. Don’t get me wrong, it isn’t likely something that is going to be noticed when firing, but I don’t want it occurring. I spend $115 for the light, and $100+ on holsters for my Glock/TLR-7... I want the thing to stay on.

 

Received a call back from Mark a little bit ago, confirmed what was posted on AR15.com. Told me that they are going to try to ship an upgraded part that the user can swap in themselves. Said might be completed by the end of this week, but possibly next week. Will contact those who report the issue, and let them know when they can expect to move forward with repair/upgrade.

 

Also confirmed that the lights are good to go for shooting, just the flicker will be present until upgraded. Will add that they are actually one of my top companies that I’ve ever dealt with in regards to customer service. Will be a Streamlight customer for life if that is what I can expect from them.

 

If people are interested in this thread, I will post what comes from this upgrade. If not, click the video above... I am going to keep the description in that up to date with everything that occurs until my light stays on through dry-fire practice.

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I have two of the Streamlight TLR-1-HLs. I love these lights and never had a flicker! One is on my Sig P226 Stainless .40 cal. and another on my Beretta Px4 Storm Compact. It was on my 92FS Inox untill @Ray Raymade me take off the rail it was mounted on:mad:! But that's okay since it kinda ruined the look of the pistol anywayl! I must admit, Pietro would not have been pleased!:)

Streamlight all the way!:D

 

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As a streamlight fanboy, I appreciate your thread.  Thanks for the read.


Weaponlights, we are on the same page. Handhelds, I still prefer my Surefires.

Now we just got to fix your shotgun brand, and you’d be good.

Flickering when shooting or anything like that means there's a poor connection in there somewhere.  Didn't they test this?!


It’s actually a feature, and even though I thought the same, I’m thinking it really is a feature the more I look into it.

Ever have a multi-mode light on a long gun, like a Surefire 6PX Pro? Recoil can cause the spring against the battery to jolt the battery so the light acts like you pushed the button (toggling the modes; the battery disconnects from the light momentarily). Most designs alleviate that by adding a second spring on the other side of the battery... which you are correct about it being a connection issue.

They put in a software component to stop that movement from shutting the light off completely or switching into strobe (if activated). I didn’t check the inside of the battery compartment, but I do know there is a spring on the lens end. Whether it is too sensitive and goes off while dry-firing/slide release, or a major design issue (actual battery jump), I’ll have to see what the fix is.

Mark from Streamlight told me it was 4 milliseconds power down, where as your eye recovering from the muzzle flash is about 7 milliseconds. While shooting, likely will not notice the turning off... but he understood that people want it resolved. I didn’t go into how many Streamlights I own (4 TRL-1s, 1 TLR-3, 1 TLR-6, and 1 TLR-7), but he treated me like I was his only customer, which I actually appreciate. Had a crappy experience with Surefire C/S, so it means a lot to me.

Fix will keep the light on, but still retain that software. Not an electrical engineer, so no idea how it was done. If the fix is user serviceable, I’m guessing there is a part swapped. Is it a second spring on the switch side? Maybe, but if it fixes the flicker, I’m down for it.

Supposedly, people on AR15.com fixed it with a rubber band. Since there are people interested, will post up what the fix is, and compare the parts to see what they did. While I felt the same way about their testing, definitely respect them for fixing it.

I think compact lights just are not lucky. Look at the XC1 and all of its original issues. Keeping confident that this is the fix, especially since I ordered/paid for holsters to fit my 30S with this light. I really don’t want to go back to the TLR-3... being 500 Lumens, in a smaller package, is better than 125 Lumens.

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It was on my 92FS Inox untill [mention=1265]Ray Ray[/mention]made me take off the rail it was mounted on:mad:!


One of these?

daPyBqH.jpg

Think he said the same about mine, as well. Gives me a rail on a gun that I don’t want to install a permanent rail on... screw looks.
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31 minutes ago, JohnnyB said:

I have two of the Streamlight TLR-1-HLs. I love these lights and never had a flicker! It was on my 92FS Inox untill @Ray Raymade me take off the rail it was mounted on:mad:! But that's okay since it kinda ruined the look of the pistol anyway! 

It was the right decision

2 minutes ago, Screwball said:

 


Weaponlights, we are on the same page. Handhelds, I still prefer my Surefires.

Now we just got to fix your shotgun brand, and you'd be good.

 

Handhelds, although my work EDC is a Maglight my after hours lights are made by O-Light.

My shotgun brand is fine, why switch to sub standard companies?

2 minutes ago, Screwball said:

 


One of these?

daPyBqH.jpg

Think he said the same about mine, as well. Gives me a rail on a gun that I don’t want to install a permanent rail on... screw looks. emoji41.png

 

How to ruin a 1911, by @Screwball

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22 minutes ago, Screwball said:

 


One of these?

daPyBqH.jpg

Think he said the same about mine, as well. Gives me a rail on a gun that I don’t want to install a permanent rail on... screw looks. emoji41.png

Yes! Exactly that! I didn't like the way it destroyed the beautiful look of my Beretta 92FS Inox, but it did facilitate my putting a rail on it without any permanent mods! But @Ray RayWould not stop until I removed it! Glad I did and now my Sig 226 Stainless steel .40 cal is my go to pistol! But that damn Sig is one heavy M'fer now! In a few years I may have to break my rule and actually buy a polymer framed pistol.....YUCH!!!:unsure:

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2 hours ago, Screwball said:

I really don’t want to go back to the TLR-3... being 500 Lumens, in a smaller package, is better than 125 Lumens.

 

I have a TLR-1s on my Walther PPQ. It might be time for a light upgrade. 

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Those that have older model Surefire products or Maglites can use the LED drop-in/conversion devices by Malkoff as an alternative. These Malkoff devices compared to the newer LED flashlights put out by other companies may not be worth it due to the price point and lumen intensity. However, if you like your Surefire lights like I do. It is a good upgrade.

Surefire lights I have upgraded . . .

Model: M961XM07 < Original output was 125 lumens >

Model: 6P < Original output was 65 lumens >

Regards,

TokenEntry

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Didn’t get a call, but did a little more investigation...

Inside the light, there is a spring on the bulb side, but nothing on the inner terminal (positive). I can’t see the slide or dry-fire causing the battery to jump... but I guess anything is possible. Looking at it, I figured the switch was a self-contained unit, and had all the components other than the bulb and battery.

The way they did the switch design is very interesting. In my pictures, you see the rubber switch assembly. All it is... a rubber boot. Think the rubber button plate for a remote control or a car remote. There are two disc pressure points on each side of the control board, which is like a cube coming out the back of the housing, and the rubber boot allows for it to be activated by push in or forward. The thing that struck me was how lacking the switch boot is... and held on with three screws. It sort of looks like those boots will be swappable, making remote switches easier to install. I’m actually hoping for a toggle setup, like the older TLRs, but I think Glock pressure switches will likely come out first. Depending how it fits in my holsters, I might consider something like that. Have one for my M&P to use with my TLR-1s, which I like... but rarely use.

In regards to the upgrade, no idea on how it is a user install. Shy of the boot, everything else looks soldered in. Unless they are going to give a disk with a spring to shove in front of the battery... I’m stumped.

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Got a call from Mark... new switch housing/module is being shipped. Had me send him an email with my info to get it out to me.

Didn’t question him on it, but I’m actually excited to get it in hand to see what is being sent... as well as what I’m swapping out. Should get it by the weekend, considering Streamlight is out of PA (think a few minutes from Oaks).

Will be posting pictures and hopefully confirmation that the flicker is fixed. If it comes this weekend/early next week, might be pushed back a little bit. Driving a truck down to Florida for a client of my fiancé, then driving back with her/dogs/whatever crap that didn’t go on the trailer with the horses. No holster for the TLR-7 (plus, I want to practice with it more before using it), so that won’t be my carry gun for the trip.

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So, got back today with some results...

First, I had family checking the mail at my house while away, so knew when it arrived. Yesterday, I received a call from Mark at Streamlight, confirming that I received the part. Told him the situation, and said that it should take care of the problem... but if not, to contact him. Definitely can’t say enough good about Streamlight with how they handle their customer service.

I guess the switch assembly he was talking about was the lockout feature, as he sent an entire lens assembly. One with the sticker is the new one... if it really matters.

Cl9T1sh.jpg

Put it on, and dry-fired my 30S... stayed on with no flicker. Locked the slide back and sent it home... flicker.

The parts look identical, with the same numbers printed. So, they definitely tweaked the software so that the light stays on with dry-fire, but I’m guessing the slide slamming home and recoil will still cause it to occur (it is a feature to prevent it from shutting down, considering the design of the light).

I compared the old setup to the new, with the slide being released, it looks like the flicker is shorter on the new one... but hard to tell. With the old one, the flicker was more apparent with the slide going forward over the dry-firing. So, I’m guessing the shutdown duration is related to the amount of force put on the light. They probably raised the lower limit to stop dry-fire flicker, but probably can’t do anything with the slide release due to the movement (haven’t tried it with a loaded firearm, so take it for what it is worth; slide was sent home on an empty gun with a magazine in).

Now, I would definitely have preferred a second spring to stop the issue... but considering how small the light is, I think I can deal with that.

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You sure it is flickering and not just moving so quickly that it looks like it is.


Yep. It is similar to how it was in the first video... did it in a dark room, so was definitely shutting down.

Side note, just ordered a new shell for my AIWB holster from White Hat. They just got the TLR-7 in. Shell should be done around the same time as my Ares Tactical holster (they make them for both the TLR-7 and TLR-8).
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