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Zeke

High exposure 870 hd

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Lemme guess

870 Police Magnum, tricked out by Wilson Combat.  7 + 1, threaded barrel, ghost ring sights, Wilson Combat parts, MRD from either Leupold, Aimpoint or Trijicon.

All that, and it is almost as good as a 590A1.

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I’ve posted it before:

F2qt4TN.jpg

Started as a Remington 870 Express Magnum.

I stripped it down to a receiver and mag tube and filled it back up with internal parts from an old Wingmaster: Trigger group and lifter, bolt and slide w/action bars.

Installed Magpul furniture

Mesa railed side saddle

Insight MRDS

Vang Comp barrel

Vang Comp follower

Vang Comp Dome Safety

Scattergun Tech +2 follower (6+1 total)

Insight WMLX light (500 lumens)

and it has a Magpul MS1 sling on it

The action is as slick as snot. 

The Vang Comp barrel patterns my 8 pellet Federal Flight Control or Hornady TAP Low Recoil 00B very well. I can cover all 8 pellets with my fist at 10 yards and with an open hand at 20. Using 00B withoutva flight control was the group opens up a bit, but it’s still amazingly tight.

Tube stays loaded with Winchester Segmenting Slugs and buckshot in the side saddle.

It’s gonna get ghost ring sights soon. Probably Scattergun Tech so I can cowitness through the optic.  

I’m also planning on getting a Berett 1301 ASAFP.

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I’ve posted it before:

F2qt4TN.jpg

Started as a Remington 870 Express Magnum.

I stripped it down to a receiver and mag tube and filled it back up with internal parts from an old Wingmaster: Trigger group and lifter, bolt and slide w/action bars.

Installed Magpul furniture

Mesa railed side saddle

Insight MRDS

Vang Comp barrel

Vang Comp follower

Vang Comp Dome Safety

Scattergun Tech +2 follower (6+1 total)

Insight WMLX light (500 lumens)

and it has a Magpul MS1 sling on it

The action is as slick as snot. 

The Vang Comp barrel patterns my 8 pellet Federal Flight Control or Hornady TAP Low Recoil 00B very well. I can cover all 8 pellets with my fist at 10 yards and with an open hand at 20. Using 00B withoutva flight control was the group opens up a bit, but it’s still amazingly tight.

Tube stays loaded with Winchester Segmenting Slugs and buckshot in the side saddle.

It’s gonna get ghost ring sights soon. Probably Scattergun Tech so I can cowitness through the optic.  

I’m also planning on getting a Berett 1301 ASAFP.

Are you working your light as on/off only? I was just thinking how I will be setting up my light on my 590a1

 

I have the same light and will have the same forearm.

 

Also have a spare EAG surefire I could use too

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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It’s all the switchology.

The lights needs to be in the best place for me to use thebswitch effectively.

On rifles I prefer the light as close to 12:00 as possible. Usually they end up at 10:00-11:00 for lights with clicky tailcaps and 1:00-2:00 for lights with tape switches (I prefer clicky tailcaps, but sometimes a tapenswitch is necessary on rifles with lasers) for two reasons: 

1) I like to use my thumb to activate the lights. I prefer clicks switches with only an on and an off. I hold a rifle with my support hand thumb over the top of the rail at 12:00. Putting the light as near as possible to my thumb makes using the lights easier.

2) Because my light is less likely to be obscured by cover/concealment - The closer to 12:00 the better because then when my sights are clear, my light is likely clear as well.

Now the shotgun is different. I can’t hold ait the same way I do a carbine. I can’t wrap my thumb over the top - Shotgun barrels get HOT! So my thumb sits on the handguard at 9:00. I would prefer the light there, but it’s a no go with the sling - if it was a semi-auto shotgun and I didn’t need to work the action, it would be fine. But working the action, the light and the sling get in each other’s way. So 6:00 is the next best thing. I can activate the light with the knuckle or the pad on my index finger. Not the perfect solution, but it is the best solution I have found other than one of the crazy expensive dedicated Surefire lights.

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It’s all the switchology.
The lights needs to be in the best place for me to use thebswitch effectively.
On rifles I prefer the light as close to 12:00 as possible. Usually they end up at 10:00-11:00 for lights with clicky tailcaps and 1:00-2:00 for lights with tape switches (I prefer clicky tailcaps, but sometimes a tapenswitch is necessary on rifles with lasers) for two reasons: 
1) I like to use my thumb to activate the lights. I prefer clicks switches with only an on and an off. I hold a rifle with my support hand thumb over the top of the rail at 12:00. Putting the light as near as possible to my thumb makes using the lights easier.
2) Because my light is less likely to be obscured by cover/concealment - The closer to 12:00 the better because then when my sights are clear, my light is likely clear as well.
Now the shotgun is different. I can’t hold ait the same way I do a carbine. I can’t wrap my thumb over the top - Shotgun barrels get HOT! So my thumb sits on the handguard at 9:00. I would prefer the light there, but it’s a no go with the sling - if it was a semi-auto shotgun and I didn’t need to work the action, it would be fine. But working the action, the light and the sling get in each other’s way. So 6:00 is the next best thing. I can activate the light with the knuckle or the pad on my index finger. Not the perfect solution, but it is the best solution I have found other than one of the crazy expensive dedicated Surefire lights.
Thanks for the comprehensive answer.

I'm a dummy. PSA, don't drink and post...

My light is mounted at 9 o'clock - so the shadow is to the right. It's actually on a mount on the front sight so it's closer to 10 o'clock and activated by a tape switch on the right side of the hand guard.

I should label my boots to get them on the right feet too. Lol.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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16 hours ago, Ray Ray said:

Lemme guess

870 Police Magnum, tricked out by Wilson Combat.  7 + 1, threaded barrel, ghost ring sights, Wilson Combat parts, MRD from either Leupold, Aimpoint or Trijicon.

All that, and it is almost as good as a 590A1.

Told ya

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