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Mrs. Peel

Tire Rack: good source? or bad?

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I've been using TR for over 25 years, but I guess it helps that I mount and balance my own tires. [emoji57] I raced cars for around 25 years (autocross and road race) and got bored of it so now I do competitive shooting. [emoji4]

A few things I will mention and you can take it with a grain of salt if you wish. To me tires are the most important safety issue on any vehicle. You are probably driving 3000 pound plus vehicle and all that is holding it on the road is four patches of rubber about 5 inches wide and 2 inches long. So it is critical that you have the best tire that you can afford. I always buy the best performance tire no matter what the cost and how short they may last. One of the great features of Tire Rack is that you can compare the statistics on all the tires that fit your car. For any normal “daily driver” I would suggest making sure that you get the tire that is good in both the rain and snow as well as normal dry traction. People tend to ignore the wet traction stats on tires.

Just as a little story. Back in the mid 90s a friend showed up at an autocross with the Ford Taurus rental car. This car had those 80,000 mile Michelin tires that are hard as rocks. I took it out for a run on the autocross course and at a speed that was at least 15 miles an hour slower then I would go through the turn in my racecar the tires would not grip. The car went straight in the turn and had to slow down about 10 mph before the tires would group again and allow the car to turn. Normally you would only have to slow down about 2 to 4 mph before the tire should grip again. To me that was totally unacceptable. I would always recommend staying away from high mileage tires. It’s not worth the savings if it causes you harm in an accident.

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Tire rack has great prices, problem is by the time
You pay for shipping mounting and balancing the prices suck. Check your local car dealer, yes I am serious. When I bought my last car I bought my winter tires from the dealer. The price was $10 more per tire than tire rack but they offered free mounting and balancing twice a year for life. Over a few years that paid for the price of the tires by itself.

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2 hours ago, 10X said:

Well, she did agree to the 'Adult Play Date' that Sota offered.   She didn't even flinch when Krdshrk suggested making it a three-way play date.

You know, 10X, as soon as I read Sota's invitation, I thought to myself: Now which one of these pervert freaks will be the first to take that comment and run with it?...and how long will it take? Congratulations, sort of... you were indeed the first, but it took a full six hours. Honestly, I expect far better response time from you people. The peanut gallery is off of it's game today! 

@Scorpio64@Krdshrk@WP22 - for the record, there will be no cigars, scratching, burping, threeways, chewing tobacco, spitting, etc. - I graciously leave all of that behavior to you barbarians.

Although... I'm certainly down for the Scotch. :D

 

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From my experience with tire rack, it's not worth it $$$ wise.  I've seen places match or beat their prices and those who don't will be relatively close but that's just the price of the tires.  It seems like the shops around me charge you extra per tire to mount it on the rim and balance it if you did not buy it from them.  So even if Tire Rack sells a tire a little cheaper than they do, in the end you'll pay more to get it on the vehicle if you did not buy it from them.  Ymmv. 

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10 hours ago, Mrs. Peel said:

I need new tires for my older Audi A4. I seem to burn through tires like a house on fire. (Apparently, I am a bit... hellbent... at the wheel).

Honestly, I usually just go to a discount tire place like Mavis and get whatever's on sale. But, my uncle recently mocked that process, rolled his eyes and enjoyed a good laugh over my cheap "no name" tires... he said I should get a good quality, brand name tire purchased through Tire Rack on the internet. Apparently, they have a network of places that will put them on and balance them for you. He claims the whole thing comes out to the same cost (or even less) than Mavis but you get better tire that last longer.

I always like multiple referrals before I change a process. Does anyone else recommend Tire Rack? What I know about tires could fit in a thimble with room to spare. (I know nothing about tires).

 

tire rack is great. if anything, they give you too much information(there really is no such thing). ferget mavis. fucking chain....they're thieves just like most every other chain out there. 

 you don't need to go to one of the "network" installers if you buy from tirerack. you can have them ship to your regular mechanic. let him know first of course. and he can mount/balance them for ya. 

 

 why the HELL are you sticking with an a4? you're not burning oil as fast as gas yet? I try like a bastard to talk those I know out of actually owning an owdi(see what I did there?) as more often than not, an owdi spends more time in the shop than in the owners driveway. 

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1 minute ago, 1LtCAP said:

why the HELL are you sticking with an a4? you're not burning oil as fast as gas yet? I try like a bastard to talk those I know out of actually owning an owdi(see what I did there?) as more often than not, an owdi spends more time in the shop than in the owners driveway. 

But, but... I love my A4! It's old but I'm only the 2nd owner and the 1st owner was  compulsive about upkeep and put very few miles on it. I also have a fantastic mechanic - he previously worked for Audi and is now on his own - and he's a wonderful diagnostician and gets me great deals on used parts, etc. He's not out to gouge me (or anyone) on price.

Honestly, the car has been an absolute PEACH! Mileage is around 125K now and I intend to buy another used Audi once I've run it up to around 200K. But, I will take my time and look for another used one (newer, less mileage) through my mechanic... that way, I'll know it's maintenance history and can be confident it's been well cared for. Don't be an Audi-hater!

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I've been getting mine at Costco for years, prices are good, tire selection not bad, free rotation for free for the life of the tire. Warranty is good, only had to use it once in many years. Usually get them rotated while I shop and get a hotdog or yogurt. 

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@Mrs. Peel:

I just saw this thread and if it is not too late, for what it is worth, here is my experience and process as a bonafide “car guy” when purchasing tires for my vehicles.  I will echo the other posters who say that for the most part, Tire Rack usually has the lowest prices for the widest range of tire makes and sizes.  If I were you, I would research to determine what your car’s manufacturer (Audi), has recommended as the OEM tires size and make for your specific car model.  The OEM tires were selected since they are the most appropriate for your car's weight, chassis and general type of vehicle, (compact, full-size, SUV, truck, etc....).  Then, with that information, using the very easy Tire Rack web site, price out a set of four of those specific tires, including shipping costs to you or your installer.  Then, what I have done, is take that information to either my BMW or Mercedes-Benz Dealer(s).  I first ask the BMW/M-B dealer(s) to give me an itemized price for the same tires, along with the mounting, balancing, removing of old tires, NJ State Tire Fee and of course, NJ Sales Tax.  Usually, but not always, the total cost of the new tires offered by the BMW/M-B Dealerships is a more expensive than that from Tire Rack, but not significantly.  (Note:  As a member of the BMW Car Club of America and the Mercedes-Benz Club of America, I receive discounts on all OEM parts that I purchase from these Dealers).  What I end up doing is showing the Dealers what Tire Rack charges for the same tires and the Dealers ALWAYS have met their lower price.  That saves me the hassle of having to order the four tires from Tire Rack and having to determine who will mount/balance the tires, etc.  Also, the BMW/M-B Dealers provide a one-year road hazard warranty for each of the tires that I purchase from them, that they install, at no additional cost.  This process will allow you to purchase the tires that are specifically specified for your model of car by its manufacturer, at close to the lowest price you can realistically obtain without spending much time shopping around.

Also, there are several other factors to consider when purchasing tires for your car, as I have explained in posts in other threads, which you may or may not remember, so here they are again:

Summer / Winter Tires - I am firmly in the camp that believes that in order to get the best performance, enjoyment and safety from your automobiles, whether they are daily drivers or used on occasion, (i.e. long road trips, utility, etc.), one should switch between summer performance tires and winter (snow) tires.  This is especially true for cars that are rear-wheel drive.

While it may seem easier and less expensive to go with All-Season tires, if you do you are compromising your vehicle’s performance, something that most of us enthusiasts do not want to do.  Therefore, I switch out my summer performance wheels/tires to my winter wheels/tires usually around Dec. 1st and keep them on the vehicles for approximately. five (5) months and switch back around May 1st.

It is a misconception that winter tires are really only needed for driving on snow covered roads.  Studies have shown that at about 44 deg. F, and below, the softer rubber compounds in high-performance summer tires AND all-season tires change by becoming much harder.  This results in reduced contact with the road.  Winter tires are designed with special rubber compounds that will stay soft at the lower temperatures and with tread groove geometry design that increase surface contact and therefore your traction in cold winter conditions.  Therefore, winter tires should seriously be considered for all locations where the air temperature will be below approx.. 40 deg. F. for days/weeks/months on end, (i.e. the northeast U.S.)

As far as my experience, I tend to go with the summer and winter tries that are either OEM or recommended by the manufacturer, in my case Mercedes-Benz and BMW.  I have the wheels/tires swapped out at my respective BMW/M-B Dealers. During this transition, they take my summer wheels/tires and shrink-wrap them, put them on a pallet and store them in a central warehouse facility during the winter months, all for a nominal fee. For those of us who do not have extravagant garage storage space for these wheels/tires, this option makes quite a bit of sense.  Ultimately and despite the large width of these tires, they have proven their dependable performance during the cold winter months and have been more than adequate to get me through snow covered roads.  Also, I have been pleased with the performance and longevity of these summer and winter tires, considering my greater than average spirited driving habits

Tire Age Factor - FYI, an often overlooked but very important factor in purchasing new tires for your car, SUV or truck is the actual age of the tires.  Specifically, the date that each tire was manufactured and its relation to the date you purchase them and have them installed on your vehicle.

Tire manufacturers recommend that tires should be replaced once they exceed six (6) years in age.  This is regardless of the wear level of the tread and is due to the realization that the rubber polymers dry out over time and that dry rot can and does occur not only on the tread surface that is in contact with the road, but also on the sidewalls, creating a potential weak spot that could lead to a blowout.

Every tire sold in the U.S. must have a U.S. Dept. of Transportation (DOT) label that indicates the date that tire was manufactured.  You can (and should), locate the DOT code on the tire’s sidewall.  The key numbers are the last four digits that indicate the date of production.  Of those last four digits, the first two indicate which of 52 weeks and the second two digits refer to the year.  So for example, if the last four digits of the DOT code are 2615, that indicates that tire was produced in the 26th week of 2015.

As an example, back in the fall of 2017, I needed to buy new tires for my old roadster.  I discovered that only two companies still make tires in the size I need and that Tire Rack did not carry them.  The local tire chain store near me told me they have four in stock and could get them the same day.  Once I arrived at the store, I checked the DOT code and discovered that each tire was four (4) years old.  I refused to buy them and asked the manager to please do some research with their distributers to see if he could locate and obtain four tires that are no more than 12 months old.  Ultimately, he was able to do so within a week and those are the tires I purchased.

Most consumers just naively assume that the “new” tires they are purchasing were manufactured at some point in the past 12 months, but that may not necessarily be the case.  Your tires may have been sitting on a rack in a warehouse for several years before they were selected for your car.  This is especially true for tires that may be an odd size that is not all that common.  Many tire retailers, whether they are locals, chains or online sources, do not bother to check the age of the tires since their priority is to sell tires.  Therefore, the burden for this issue is on the consumer to ask, check and verify for yourself what the age of each tire is that you are buying. 

I hope this helps you and others here.  Good luck….

AVB-AMG

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2 hours ago, Howard said:

Tire rack has great prices, problem is by the time
You pay for shipping mounting and balancing the prices suck.

That's been my experience with them too.

1 hour ago, Regular Guy said:

I've seen places match or beat their prices and those who don't will be relatively close but that's just the price of the tires.  It seems like the shops around me charge you extra per tire to mount it on the rim and balance it if you did not buy it from them.  So even if Tire Rack sells a tire a little cheaper than they do, in the end you'll pay more to get it on the vehicle if you did not buy it from them. 

Yep, when you figure out the total "Out the door price", I've always found a better price from a local tire guy.

Plus, if you buy a TR tire and have a local shop mount it up, who do you go back to if there's an issue? When you buy the tire and the mounting from the local guy, they're more willing to fix any issues with stems, balancing, etc..

 

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3 hours ago, Zeke said:

@Mrs. Peel

@AVB-AMGhad an interesting note about tires a few years back. In reference to how old your new tires might be.

@Zeke:

Thanks for the heads-up on this thread.  I did a "cut & paste" above, of two of my older posts on issues concerning tires that should be considered when purchasing them.

AVB-AMG

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1 hour ago, Mrs. Peel said:

You know, 10X, as soon as I read Sota's invitation, I thought to myself: Now which one of these pervert freaks will be the first to take that comment and run with it?...and how long will it take? Congratulations, sort of... you were indeed the first, but it took a full six hours.

Thank you!   But to be fair, I had the joke as soon as Sota made his post, and Krdshrk's post only improved it.   But then I had to wait 5 agonizing hours for the right post that I could follow.   Fortunately, Scorpio came through with the perfect set-up.

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9 hours ago, Mrs. Peel said:

OK, that's enough "thumbs up" for Tire Rack for me to give it a whirl. I'd never even HEARD of it before! Sheesh. Ignorant me!

To be blunt, I have ZERO interest in price checking at a slew of places.... seriously, who has time for that? :mad: I don't have a Costco membership, but I do have Amazon Prime, so I'll probably check Tire Rack and Amazon. And I'll keep all those sundry costs in mind. Thanks, guys!!!

@sota - we don't need an excuse for a range date - sheesh, let's just do it! PM me when you're ready. ;) 

Adult play date sounds like a lot more fun than a range date. Just sayin...

Do a bit of shopping around. I got mine on eBay a month or 2 ago, they had a rebate and stuff on there and it ended up being cheaper. That said the prices are fairly consistent nowadays IMO. Everyone has smart phones and can google stuff..

Id get tire rack pricing at your local shop and call it a day. Save the headache of shipping and what not.. and support brick and mortar!

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1 hour ago, Mrs. Peel said:

But, but... I love my A4! It's old but I'm only the 2nd owner and the 1st owner was  compulsive about upkeep and put very few miles on it. I also have a fantastic mechanic - he previously worked for Audi and is now on his own - and he's a wonderful diagnostician and gets me great deals on used parts, etc. He's not out to gouge me (or anyone) on price.

Honestly, the car has been an absolute PEACH! Mileage is around 125K now and I intend to buy another used Audi once I've run it up to around 200K. But, I will take my time and look for another used one (newer, less mileage) through my mechanic... that way, I'll know it's maintenance history and can be confident it's been well cared for. Don't be an Audi-hater!

I can't help it. when someone designs a car which requires removal of the front fascia just to do a timing belit I hav e issues with it. or when you have to remove the entire front end to replace the a/c compressor water pump or other engine driven accessories. and.......the a4's tend to lose oil. either leaking through the rocker cover, or burning it. I've gotten to the point where I won't do anything other than oil changes brakes or shocks on an audi any more. 

 going through your mechanic Is a smart idea. but.....LISTEN to him, no matter how many cars he tells you to pass on. I did that for a guy looking for a foxbody mustang a few years back. he kept bringing me bent/twisted pos cars, and I kept telling him to run away. on the 7th one, he didn't listen. dumped a boatload into the engine.....then wanted me to weld on frame connectors.....which I couldn't do....'cause the car was twisted. 

 

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2 hours ago, Regular Guy said:

From my experience with tire rack, it's not worth it $$$ wise.  I've seen places match or beat their prices and those who don't will be relatively close but that's just the price of the tires.  It seems like the shops around me charge you extra per tire to mount it on the rim and balance it if you did not buy it from them.  So even if Tire Rack sells a tire a little cheaper than they do, in the end you'll pay more to get it on the vehicle if you did not buy it from them.  Ymmv. 

most of my customers that have them shipped to me from there get free shipping. 

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I've purchasesed Cooper tires from local tire company.  Cooper has been my go to tire for years and years.  I have been very happy with them and they seem to last.  Of course I hardly drive as I take mass transit for work so that "MAY" have something to do with them lasting me years and years.  Seriously, it' been like 3-4 years since I last purchased tires for my car.  LOL.

Good luck on your search.  

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Tire Rack definitely has one of the largest selection of tires. I've been using them for the last 16 plus years. Alot of the chain tire shops will only offer certain brands. Find a local tire shop on the TR website confirm the cost to mount and balance then have the tires you ordered shipped to them. As others have stated may end up paying the same after mounting and balancing. Shipping pretty much negates the lower prices but try to catch them with the rebates when you buy set of 4 from TR and you do save on the sales tax to NJ. 

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2 hours ago, sota said:

@Mrs. Peel  wow! what a great play date! I'm EXHAUSTED!!! :D

Pls... for the love of god, stop calling it a "play date" - you make it sound so... tawdry!  People will talk and then my good name will be in tatters.  :facepalm:

I swear, I get NO respect around here! :unsure:

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8 minutes ago, Mrs. Peel said:

Pls... for the love of god, stop calling it a "play date" - you make it sound so... tawdry!  People will talk and then my good name will be in tatters.  :facepalm:

I swear, I get NO respect around here! :unsure:

Welcome to being a Mod..... but at least they like you..... 

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Being someone brought it up I checked Amazon for the tires I have on my Honda.  $104 each and I still have to pay mounting and balancing.  The Honda dealer charges $130 each mounted and balanced.  I get my oil changes at the dealer for $2 more than Jiffy Lube.  In three years and almost 45,000 miles the dealer has "sold" me...nothing.

Many dealers have gotten away from screwing the consumer.  OT but last year I had to get the coils and spark plugs replaced on on Ford van.  Dealert charged me 50% more than if I did the job myself.  If you ever did that kind of job it's worth the money he charged me.

Don't get me wrong.  My heart belongs to independent mechanics the problem is the good ones I know are too far away to use.

 

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36 minutes ago, Mrs. Peel said:

Pls... for the love of god, stop calling it a "play date" - you make it sound so... tawdry!  People will talk and then my good name will be in tatters.  :facepalm:

I swear, I get NO respect around here! :unsure:

Maybe you should contact the piano man and ask him to spread some of that culture around.:yahoo::fan:

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