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revenger

s&w 617 tight chambers

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Anyone who owns a 617 or any revolver with tight chambers should do this or have it done.

Been shooting my 617 10 shot for about year and found it very frustrating as after 1 or 2 cylinders you could not tap the ejector rod and have the empties fall out, gun spent alot of time in the safe due to this.  after doing some research this is a problem a lot of 617 owners encounter .    The recommended fix is to ream the chambers to the correct SAMMI specs.

with a lot of mixed opinions on S&W repair service on the S&W forums i choose to do this myself.

I ordered the correct reamer from Brownells , The Clymer .22lr REVOLVER cylinder finisher and proceeded with the job.( follow the usual metal working techniques,  lots of cutting oil and NEVER go backwards )   the end result is a gun that is now fun to shoot with absolutely no negative effect on accuracy ,  I have purposely not cleaned my gun just to see how many boxes of various ammo I can put through it, well past 400 and still dumps out the empties with a slight push.

With the chamber reaming, forcing cone cut to 11degrees, sights, springs, hammer, polishing internals and grips it is fun gun to shoot and groups very well at 10 yards double action. as any .22lr revolver shooter knows it is hard to get a light double action trigger and still have reliable ignition, I find about 8lbs is the lowest

 

I wish S&W would market a frame only for their various K, L, N frames, something along the theory of a upper/lower where you build your own gun.   A frame with a fitted cylinder and you finish it yourself with aftermarket parts.  I'm not that happy with S&W's current quality as compared to the older handfitted guns .   while on the phone with S&W a few months ago I was asking about this gun as well as a 625 PC that shoots off the paper to the right at 10yds,   When I was explaining a condition to the person he said " never never never never never never" remove the side plate?

Huh,  If I wanted a gun with a 120 grit action I would have ordered it that way, anyway it was a good time to clean the rust and crud off the inside of the frame.   yes stainless does rust.  

 

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Yes on the Herrett's grips,   the Jordan Trooper, .standard grade wood.   I bought another set for my 625 JM once I received these.   send in a trace of your hand and they make them for your grip.    I have a set of the plastic Troopers that Pachmayer sold years ago for my 15-3 and they were way too big but a nice shape.  these fill my hand perfect.  I will be ordering more for K22 and want to talk to them about grips for M41.   I have grown partial to smooth grips that fit just right.   

have not got around to sending 625pc back yet,  great gun, accurate, smooth just shoots to the right with all ammo.   The barrel does not have an obvious cant although when I put my forcing cone plug gauge in it goes in way past the "fail" line,   my concern is that If the frame requires replacement I will have to go through all the permit bullcrap just to get MY gun back .   S&W should just put same S/N on new frame,  doesnt seem like a heavy lift to me to do that, probably only a 5 minute set up.  probably even less since it is laser etched.

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recently aquired a 617 and freaking love it!  I'm lucky, after about 400 rounds 2 weeks ago, no issues with tight chambers as the spent casings drop freely and with mixed ammo.  Love this revolver although I have to send the grips back that altamont sent me due to being wrong color

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