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3" and under revolver next, opinions?

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So this is kind of a continuation of my previous revolver thread a few months back where I was unsure of what 4"+ revolver to get. Went all out with a S&W Performance Center model 627 with a 5" barrel.

Anyway, now looking at a shorter barreled option. I'm saying 3" barrel and under. Uses? I'd say mainly the desire for a smaller revolver, then after that something to infrequently carry easier than a large frame. Don't want something super tiny like an LCR or little snubnose. I want to enjoy shooting it at the range, not put 10 rounds through it and put it away beause it's uncomfortable to shoot.

I've been looking at a few and so far i like the s&w model 60 and model 66 combat magnum with 3" barrels, but also the 686 2.5" performance and model 640 hammerless which is a 2" I believe. I like the 640 because while it is close in size to the LCR for example (which I don't want), it still has enough room for all your fingers on the grip which I think is a preference of mine.

Thoughts? P.s. - I've only shot a small framed snubnose once ( @Ray Ray 's). I think it had a 2" barrel or less, it was really short and even though if I recall he had hot loads in it, it wasn't comfortable to shoot.

 

2018-10-30-11-16-20.jpg

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Anyway, now looking at a shorter barreled option. I'm saying 3" barrel and under. Uses? I'd say mainly the desire for a smaller revolver, then after that something to infrequently carry easier than a large frame. Don't want something super tiny like an LCR or little snubnose. I want to enjoy shooting it at the range, not put 10 rounds through it and put it away beause it's uncomfortable to shoot...

I like the 640 because while it is close in size to the LCR for example (which I don't want), it still has enough room for all your fingers on the grip which I think is a preference of mine.


Little bit confusing, at least my in eyes...

For S&Ws, they are grouped in frame sizes. The 640 is a J-frame, which most of their smaller frame revolvers are based off. The 642, which I own (642-1, no lock), is the aluminum version (Airweight). The 640 is steel. The 340 is a scandium frame/titanium cylinder (Airlite). The grip is actually identical for them all... and most people can only get two fingers on it.

However, a different grip (removable part) can be installed to give you the extra finger placement. I used to have the Hogue Monogrip on my 642-1. Grip was similar to my 629-1. For the way I carry the revolver, the Crimson Trace LG-405s are a lot better... and similar to the grip you don’t like. It is now currently converted to 9mm... and I don’t notice any issue shooting it with that grip.

The other part of the frame designation is cylinder size. The N-frame is normally larger caliber cartridges... such as .44 Magnum in the situation with my 629-1. Holds six rounds of .44 or .45. However, you also get the 627, which is an eight shot .357/.38. Opposite end of the spectrum... the 686 is a six shot .357/.38 on the L-frame (they do have the seven shot 686+, but not what I’m talking about). They have the 69, which is a five shot .44 Magnum... also on the L-frame.

There is a lot that goes into these frames/grip sizes, and even if you don’t like certain models out the gate, you also should consider grips turning something you aren’t interested in into something you’d love.

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I was in the market for a 3 inch revolver last year.  It was going to be a Model 60 like you suggested, but then I fondled the 3 inch LCRx in 38 special.  I went with the Ruger and it is solid.  The Model 60, even though it is all steel and has some weight to it, will be rough shooting 357 loads.   Yeah, you can do it but after a few cylinders you will be looking for a box of 38s.

So, ummmmm.  Get a revolver.

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31 minutes ago, SW9racer said:

What frame size is the S&W Governor?  That is a snubby 45acp

It is a Z-frame, unique to the Governor. Essentially an N-frame with an elongated cylinder window and a K/L round butt grip.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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5 hours ago, Screwball said:

 


Little bit confusing, at least my in eyes...

For S&Ws, they are grouped in frame sizes. The 640 is a J-frame, which most of their smaller frame revolvers are based off. The 642, which I own (642-1, no lock), is the aluminum version (Airweight). The 640 is steel. The 340 is a scandium frame/titanium cylinder (Airlite). The grip is actually identical for them all... and most people can only get two fingers on it.

However, a different grip (removable part) can be installed to give you the extra finger placement. I used to have the Hogue Monogrip on my 642-1. Grip was similar to my 629-1. For the way I carry the revolver, the Crimson Trace LG-405s are a lot better... and similar to the grip you don’t like. It is now currently converted to 9mm... and I don’t notice any issue shooting it with that grip.

The other part of the frame designation is cylinder size. The N-frame is normally larger caliber cartridges... such as .44 Magnum in the situation with my 629-1. Holds six rounds of .44 or .45. However, you also get the 627, which is an eight shot .357/.38. Opposite end of the spectrum... the 686 is a six shot .357/.38 on the L-frame (they do have the seven shot 686+, but not what I’m talking about). They have the 69, which is a five shot .44 Magnum... also on the L-frame.

There is a lot that goes into these frames/grip sizes, and even if you don’t like certain models out the gate, you also should consider grips turning something you aren’t interested in into something you’d love

 

My post was probably confusing for you because I'm not really a revolver guy and the few that I've been looking at are, as you put it, all over the map. I'm basing my choice off of aesthetics, grip/comfortability, and barrel length so if one is this frame and one is that frame, that's why. 

The main issue is the fact that I've only shot one small frame snub years ago, so I don't really have anything to base my decision off of. I don't know if I would like a short grip with my pinky hanging off, or instead of .357 which I was set on previously may change to 9mm or .45. I have researched some of those revolvers and they are pricey...usually start around $900. Not out of my price range but will take a little bit more time to attain.

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I'm basing my choice off of aesthetics, grip/comfortability, and barrel length so if one is this frame and one is that frame, that's why... 

I don't know if I would like a short grip with my pinky hanging off, or instead of .357 which I was set on previously may change to 9mm or .45.

 

Roger that, and understood.

 

Let’s look at the LCR... is it strictly the fact that the stock grip only allows for two-finger grip is what turns you off? If so...

 

https://www.hogueinc.com/ruger-lcr-no-finger-groove-rubber-tamer-cushion-grip-black

 

It has been awhile since I shot an LCR, but when I was comparing my father’s to my 642-1, it wasn’t a terrible shooter. Stock grip is a Tamer, which means you have rubber gel in the back (that linked one also has it, but extended a little bit).

 

One of the bigger issues I had with moving to the LCR was the trigger pull. I had quite a few rounds behind my 642-1... and the DAO trigger of the S&W is polar opposites from the LCR. Add in new holsters, costs to switch were not worth it when I found a 9mm cylinder to convert my 642-1 (same gun, so no gear changes other than moonclips and a method to carry reloads). Only thing that might have tipped the scales towards the Ruger would have been if they released the LCRx in 9mm. I likely would have jumped on it... but it was just released when I was looking, and just in .38.

 

A J-frame is a smaller revolver (compared to a 5” 627)... and the stock grips are usually along this profile.

 

https://www.hogueinc.com/s-w-j-frame-round-butt-rubber-bantam-style-grip-black

 

There are a few SKUs that have longer grips, but predominantly, that is the size grips that will be on most J-frames that people carry. But if you want more comfort, and can give up some compactness...

 

https://www.hogueinc.com/s-w-j-frame-round-butt-rubber-monogrip-black

 

I think the Hogue J-frame pictures are the same gun.

 

Personally, if I’m considering to carry a revolver... I’d opt for an Airweight. And I do carry one.

 

rjRKQWQ.jpg

 

May look like a 640... but it is the NP3 Plus. Converted to 9mm... it is noticeably lighter than a similar LCR (the 9mm uses the stainless steel frame of the .357; the .38 might be a little lighter). I can’t stress this enough, but it is like carrying nothing at all. If you really want to go light... the scandium/titanium guns weigh the same, loaded, as my Airweight does unloaded.

 

But also need to consider that some people are recoil shy. I know some that hate shooting standard pressure .38s out of an Airweight. Small revolvers/guns require more training to shoot proficiently. It stinks to say, but a few rounds out of Ray Ray’s revolver isn’t telling you that much. If it’s unbearable, might want to look elsewhere. If you weren’t accurate or was nervous, those are aspects that practice should make you overcome. That being said, I know people that are very good shooters, and put a 629 (.44 Magnum) in their hands... they are lucky if rounds hit the paper.

 

There are a few ranges that rent guns in this category... not to mention I’m sure most of the guns in this category are likely owned by members here. Maybe you can meetup with some to see what fits... or at least is a good base for what you want.

 

The weight of a steel J-frame might be beneficial, as it will soak up some of the recoil. What you need to decide is how heavy before you dump it and go with something else?

 

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S&W 686+ 3" 3/5/7.

My favorite handgun and the last one I would ever sell if it came to me selling stuff.  I have loaded some very hot loads for it and it handled them flawlessly.  

I have a 2" 9mm Ruger SP101 which I like as well.  A 3" Ruger GP100 would rate high on my list as well if I was buying handguns anymore.  

 

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The 686 is a really nice revolver.  If you are not a snob and want to save money, I just happened to handle an EAA Windicator last night in .357. It was heavy and seemed well made. The guy who had it said he picked it up for under $200. He was shooting .357 out of it and didn't seem to get hurt.

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On 10/30/2018 at 11:40 PM, Screwball said:

 

rjRKQWQ.jpg

The AK guys have a meme saying "keep that off my rifle" or whatever.

Revolver guys should have the same thing. 

Ruined a perfectly good pocket gun.

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Ruined a perfectly good pocket gun.


Nope, not for me... hands are too big. Same with my P938, even with the six rounder and no TLR-6.

It is an ankle or IWB gun. Closest would be a cargo pocket. Have holsters for that setup in almost all three (ankle holster being will be done once I ship the donor holster to my guy).

I prefer a light on my carry guns. Only exception is my LCP, and that is size minded (and as you said, a pocket gun for me).

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