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So the possibility of a 1,200 yard range trip has got me thinking.

What can I get that would (if I do my part) connect reliably and repeatably at 1,000 yards? 

I have always wanted an M1A, but the consensus seems to be that if you want real consistency at distance, you have to spend some $$ to "accurize" the rifle.

I don't like the AR10 or variants of it, and Ruger had failed me 3 out of 4 times, so don't say RPR. What can I get, semi or bolt, that will perform good enough for 1-2 moa out of the box for $1,500 or under?

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If you don't want a RPR, take a look at the Tikka TAC A1. It's just a little over your stated budget but it's a great gun.

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-308-Win-24-.aspx

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-65-Creedmoor-24-.aspx

Pros:

Just and a scope and bipod and you're ready to go

Cons:

Spare magazines are pricey

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1 hour ago, DaddyNick said:

The optics will determine distance.  

A good long range scope will cost at last as much as the rifle itself.  With all the inexpensive precision rifles on the market, I would not be surprised to hear that some folks paid more for the optics than the rifle.

Look at Howa, Tikka or something built off a Remington 700.  If you like the M1A, then your only real good choice is a loaded model in 6.5CM.  That may put some pressure on your budget a lil bit though.

 

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4 hours ago, Vicious said:

So the possibility of a 1,200 yard range trip has got me thinking.

What can I get that would (if I do my part) connect reliably and repeatably at 1,000 yards? 

I have always wanted an M1A, but the consensus seems to be that if you want real consistency at distance, you have to spend some $$ to "accurize" the rifle.

I don't like the AR10 or variants of it, and Ruger had failed me 3 out of 4 times, so don't say RPR. What can I get, semi or bolt, that will perform good enough for 1-2 moa out of the box for $1,500 or under?

What failed u in the RPR?

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I have heard about optics easily hitting the $1.5K mark, so it is something to consider. I really do need to decide what I want to do.

I will look into the Took TAC A1, as I have heard a lot of good about Tikka. 

The M1A in 6.5 doesn't get me excited, so it's out. A bolt gun in 6.5 however would work.

44 minutes ago, NJSigfan said:

What failed u in the RPR?

The RPR never failed me, Ruger did in the form of a SP101, 10/22 and GP100. Well the GP100 belonged to a close friend, but I witnessed the situation firsthand.

46 minutes ago, DaddyNick said:

GrabAGun has a bunch of bolt guns under 600. There is a Remington sps in 300 win mag for less than 550. 

Remington seems to be a little hit and miss, as well as need some work to get where it should be. At least from what I have been reading/ watching.

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47 minutes ago, NJSigfan said:

Understood...well I’m toting along my RPR...hope it’s worthy of this trip. Lol

Lol, I have no doubt that it will be. I can't say that I don't think Ruger makes a good product. I think they do, and are somewhat good at identifying market trends/demands and adapting. I have just personally been turned off.

FWIW, after a back and forth, my friend had his GP100 replaced by Ruger.

46 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Savage?

Any firsthand experience?

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2 hours ago, medved11 said:

If you don't want a RPR, take a look at the Tikka TAC A1. It's just a little over your stated budget but it's a great gun.

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-308-Win-24-.aspx

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-65-Creedmoor-24-.aspx

Pros:

Just and a scope and bipod and you're ready to go

Cons:

Spare magazines are pr

2 hours ago, medved11 said:

If you don't want a RPR, take a look at the Tikka TAC A1. It's just a little over your stated budget but it's a great gun.

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-308-Win-24-.aspx

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-TAC-A1-65-Creedmoor-24-.aspx

Pros:

Just and a scope and bipod and you're ready to go

Cons:

Spare magazines are pricey

 

Ok, watched a little YouTube and I love it. Kinda don't care about the spare mag price because of what it is. Not like I'm going to be doing any "tactical operator" stuff with this guy. Def. going to look at the Tikka a lot more.

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Hey @Zeke
@Vicious take all this with a grain of salt.  I'm just a cranky old f*&k with too many opinions...

First off, 300WM...?!?!  I'd have to ask why the hell you'd want that?  That's a lot of expensive recoil to hit paper.  Given that the 6.5Creed can go a mile and not beat you up (physically or financially) I'd really recommend reconsidering that option.  Great option for soft targets really far away.  For paper there are, IMHO, considerably better options.  

Almost any out of the box rifle will get you there.  Pick one.  

I love Tikka however aftermarket support is hit and miss.  It's there it's just harder to find. 
Savage is awesome, however my big issue is that there are no true 2-stage triggers on the market for Savage.  I'm a 2-stage kinda guy. 
The Ruger RPR is an awesome rifle.  There is a guy shooting extremely well with one in F-Class, all he did was re-barrel it. 
The Bergara is also getting solid reviews everywhere I see it pop up.  I believe (don't hold me to this) that the action works in a 700 footprint stock.  Do your due-diligence on that one.

You can buy an out of the box 700SPS in your caliber choice, slap it in a KRG Bravo and upgrade the trigger(I like Timney for all but the most demanding BR guy) for under 1500 most likely.  Shoot the snot out of it and then, when you're really ready and actually know what you want out of a rifle, get the action worked and have it re-barreled.  My current rig is a 700 with action work and a Timney Calvin Elite in a McMillan stock.  It's pretty accurate.  And consistent.  It's also well above your 1500 mark.  But, I broke it up over time.  And 700 parts are everywhere.  New and used, you can literally do everything to a 700 with the click of a mouse.

Good glass will only add to everything I said.  If you really want to enjoy your time at the range, get solid glass.  The new-ish Leupold VX series are getting rave reviews.  I have a VX5 and cannot recommend it highly enough.  It's 3-15 and will get you on steel at 1000 without issue.  I really like that scope.  For my chosen game, it doesn't have enough juice, but if it did, I would run in on my match gun.  The PST line from Vortex would be as low as I would be willing to recommend.  I know that guys are running Athlon scopes with success, but I've not been behind one.  I currently have a NightForce on my match rifle.  I sold 3 Vortex scopes to buy it.  I feel it's that nice.  My biggest thing is that I can be behind my NF for a complete 20 round string and not feel the need to come off the gun.  My eyes don't get worn out.  But, again, it's not inexpensive.  
Reloading is it's own animal but if you really want consistency, it's what has to be done.

Good luck.  Feel free to reach out if I can help.  

My suggestion:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/803637985   $630
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis/   $350
https://timneytriggers.com/remington-700-w-safety/   $150

=
$1130

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19 minutes ago, DaddyNick said:

@Bully

I brought up the 300wm. He mentioned out of the box and in my limited amateur opinion it seems the popular choice. Chose that over the 6.5 flavors just based on availability of ammo. 

Understood.  

Remember that my opinion is worth exactly what you're paying for it...

IMO, with 300WM the juice isn't worth the squeeze.  "Hunting" in any form, sure.  For paper I think there are better options that leave the shooter less fatigued.  Especially if the gun will be shot in a "tactical" hold kind of way: essentially a hard hold.  The 300 is a lot of powder popping off.  Add a big bullet on top and the shoulder will feel it.  The 6.5 class is much easier.  The 6's even more so.  My buddy has a 6.5x47 that's a relative pussycat.  My other buddy has a straight .243 that is astounding to shoot.  Each will do well to 1000.  The big 7's will get there with a little less  wind deflection, but again, at the cost of significant recoil.  

If someone is going to shoot 1000-1500 on a regular basis, the bigger rounds are worth it.  In NJ, I wouldn't steer too many that way.  

Perfect example: my very good friend had a rifle built up in .408CT.  Awesome rig.  Custom action, Cadex chassis, yadda-yadda.  Really nice gun.  
He sold it.
There is no where around here to stretch it out.  It's a several hour ride each way.  I spoke to a guy in Idaho.  He's 35 minutes from 1500 yards.  This is the wrong part of the country for rifles like that.  I'm not saying someone shouldn't have one.  Not at all.  It just shouldn't be a primary or first.  

If that 1200 yard thing comes together, and I can go, I plan on taking my .223.  My handloads are just capable of it.  Like "ragged edge" capable.   Most likely they'll be tumbling on the steel at 1200.  But they should make it.  And to me, that's part of the fun.  Doing more with less.  More distance with less bullet/powder/recoil.  

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@Bully, you seem like you know a thing or two here. 

.300 win mag would be on the table if I were an established precision marksman. Being that I know I will have to send a lot of lead down range to get there, I would like something a bit cheaper to shoot.

How do you feel about the .308 vs the 6.5 (for a blank slate precision wise). I have shot .308 in a bolt gun and I wouldn't consider it punishing.

Also, how do you feel about Remington quality at the moment? Would I be better off buying a Remington 700 short action (seen 'em on GunBroker) and having it barreled (possibly having my bolt lugs lapped) and bedded to the chassis?

Asking a lot but I appreciate it.

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24 minutes ago, Bully said:

Understood.  

Remember that my opinion is worth exactly what you're paying for it...

IMO, with 300WM the juice isn't worth the squeeze.  "Hunting" in any form, sure.  For paper I think there are better options that leave the shooter less fatigued.  Especially if the gun will be shot in a "tactical" hold kind of way: essentially a hard hold.  The 300 is a lot of powder popping off.  Add a big bullet on top and the shoulder will feel it.  The 6.5 class is much easier.  The 6's even more so.  My buddy has a 6.5x47 that's a relative pussycat.  My other buddy has a straight .243 that is astounding to shoot.  Each will do well to 1000.  The big 7's will get there with a little less  wind deflection, but again, at the cost of significant recoil.  

If someone is going to shoot 1000-1500 on a regular basis, the bigger rounds are worth it.  In NJ, I wouldn't steer too many that way.  

Perfect example: my very good friend had a rifle built up in .408CT.  Awesome rig.  Custom action, Cadex chassis, yadda-yadda.  Really nice gun.  
He sold it.
There is no where around here to stretch it out.  It's a several hour ride each way.  I spoke to a guy in Idaho.  He's 35 minutes from 1500 yards.  This is the wrong part of the country for rifles like that.  I'm not saying someone shouldn't have one.  Not at all.  It just shouldn't be a primary or first.  

If that 1200 yard thing comes together, and I can go, I plan on taking my .223.  My handloads are just capable of it.  Like "ragged edge" capable.   Most likely they'll be tumbling on the steel at 1200.  But they should make it.  And to me, that's part of the fun.  Doing more with less.  More distance with less bullet/powder/recoil.  

Gotcha. Yep. My mind is geared towards the hunting aspect. I'm looking at energy etc. I always forget you don't need energy just enough to punch paper or ping the metal. Good info. 

And yeah all the ranges by me are short range (which is fine for what I need)... Telco, range 14, south Jersey. All less than 300.  All within 30 minutes of my house. I can't justify having a "target" gun in the safe that realistically would only get stretched maybe 2-3 times a year. I do have an AR in 6.5 Grendel but haven't shot beyond 200 yards with it. Lol. 

Work, kids, wife, kids sports keep getting in my way! Lol 

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4 minutes ago, DaddyNick said:

Gotcha. Yep. My mind is geared towards the hunting aspect. I'm looking at energy etc. I always forget you don't need energy just enough to punch paper or ping the metal. Good info. 

And yeah all the ranges by me are short range (which is fine for what I need)... Telco, range 14, south Jersey. All less than 300.  All within 30 minutes of my house. I can't justify having a "target" gun in the safe that realistically would only get stretched maybe 2-3 times a year. I do have an AR in 6.5 Grendel but haven't shot beyond 200 yards with it. Lol. 

Work, kids, wife, kids sports keep getting in my way! Lol 

Work and dog keep me from my hobbies.

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5 hours ago, Vicious said:

How do you feel about the .308 vs the 6.5 (for a blank slate precision wise). I have shot .308 in a bolt gun and I wouldn't consider it punishing.

Also, how do you feel about Remington quality at the moment? Would I be better off buying a Remington 700 short action (seen 'em on GunBroker) and having it barreled (possibly having my bolt lugs lapped) and bedded to the chassis?

Asking a lot but I appreciate it.

6.5 flies better.  You will be a better shot with a 6.5 than a 308, all other things being equal, past 500 without question.  

Example:  I took a class a couple of years ago.  I was one of 4 shooters and the only one running a 6.5 (6.5x47).  The class was out to 750.  I was listening to the instructor call out wind for the other shooters.  As my turn came around, I immediately corrected for wind and let fly.  I missed.  The instructor asked what had happened.  I told him I corrected for wind (this was on a 500 yard target).  He asked me what caliber I was shooting.  I told him.  He told me to disregard wind correction until after 650.  I did so and connected pretty much every time.  
To say my buddy was pissed is an understatement.  

As far as buying an action it's an option.  However there will be a wait and the season is upon us.  I would tell you to buy the rifle, complete, and then barrel it this winter when you are more sure of your needs/goals.  Going custom out of the box sounds great but sometimes it's not.  My one buddy regularly kicks the asses of guys with $6000 rigs with his box stock Savage.  He bedded it and did a touch of trigger work. But that's about it.  He also reloads and developed a load for it that shoots lights out.  

 

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Ok, so I am probably going to go with a box stock rig in 6.5. I guess the Remington quality doesn’t really matter because when I get good enough to notice deficencies, I can upgrade parts thanks to the huge aftermarket. 

Now I just need to like into glass before I take the leap. I’m not too scared to invest a bit, because I can always grow around the glass, or sell it. I don’t abuse my stuff.

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12 hours ago, Bully said:

6.5 flies better.  You will be a better shot with a 6.5 than a 308, all other things being equal, past 500 without question.  

Example:  I took a class a couple of years ago.  I was one of 4 shooters and the only one running a 6.5 (6.5x47).  The class was out to 750.  I was listening to the instructor call out wind for the other shooters.  As my turn came around, I immediately corrected for wind and let fly.  I missed.  The instructor asked what had happened.  I told him I corrected for wind (this was on a 500 yard target).  He asked me what caliber I was shooting.  I told him.  He told me to disregard wind correction until after 650.  I did so and connected pretty much every time.  
To say my buddy was pissed is an understatement.    

 

I’ll 2nd this. I was at a class in TN last fall and I was he only one in the group shooting 6.5. Everyone else was 308. Working our way to 1000 yards, I was dialing in significantly less elevation and wind compared to those guys. I don’t have my log book in front of me but at 1000 yards I was only at like 9mils. You could also hear the speed difference in the metal return sound. When I hit steel at further distances, especially over 700 yards, the sound was returning quicker than the 308 guys. 

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On 3/14/2019 at 10:56 PM, Vicious said:

Ok, so I am probably going to go with a box stock rig in 6.5. I guess the Remington quality doesn’t really matter because when I get good enough to notice deficencies, I can upgrade parts thanks to the huge aftermarket. 

Now I just need to like into glass before I take the leap. I’m not too scared to invest a bit, because I can always grow around the glass, or sell it. I don’t abuse my stuff.

There is a R700 5R in a HS stock with Nikon FX1000 on top for 900 on MeWe.  It's down by Howell, NJ.  I don't know the guy personally.  I can get his info and pass it along if you're interested.

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