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EngineerJet

Looking to add flooring to attic for storage. Any structural engineers/architects here?

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Take a look how the roof rafters align with the floor joists. Maybe you can just install some vertical 2x4's nailed to the rafters and joists for more support. Essentially combining the strength of both framing members. 

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5 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

Really.....???   From the guy who recommends using 1/4 inch thick plywood as the new attic floor sheathing.....?  :unsure:

Yes, really.  How many attics have you been in?  How many construction jobs have you done?  I speak from experience.   If you use quality plywood, screwed down correctly and on the beams then 1/4 will suffice.  You're not gonna be storing lead weights up there.  It's gonna be Christmas decorations, old clothes and toys.  

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2 hours ago, siderman said:

Take a look how the roof rafters align with the floor joists. Maybe you can just install some vertical 2x4's nailed to the rafters and joists for more support. Essentially combining the strength of both framing members. 

@siderman:

That could also be another option, but would be a second choice.  In order to determine if it is viable, one needs to know the size of the roof rafters, their span length and spacing.  The reason it is a second choice is that the roof rafters are sized for the dead weight of the roofing materials, as well as wind loading and live loads, (i.e. snow and ice).  One concern is that if the live load of the "stuff" stored in the new attic space is too great or concentrated then the roof rafters would deflect (bend) and possibly have their structural integrity compromised.  All of that can be figured out mathematically, once you know the variables noted above.

AVB-AMG

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1 hour ago, Zeke said:

@Ray Ray stop with the luan lunacy. Jeebus 

@Zeke:  I have to admit that you have a wonderful way with words......

1 hour ago, Ray Ray said:

Yes, really.  How many attics have you been in?  How many construction jobs have you done?  I speak from experience.   If you use quality plywood, screwed down correctly and on the beams then 1/4 will suffice.  You're not gonna be storing lead weights up there.  It's gonna be Christmas decorations, old clothes and toys.  

@Ray Ray:

Granted, you certainly know your firearms, but on this topic you are on thin ice (plywood?).....

Just because you have been lucky enough to not have punctured your foot through a 1/4 inch thick plywood floor in an attic, does not mean that is what one should use when designing and constructing a new storage space in one's house.  Who knows, maybe the O.P. collects antique lead toy soldiers that weigh a "ton"....   The point is, once that attic storage space is completed and available, from my experience with my wife, all sorts of things get stashed up in the attic, without much thought as to how much all of that accumulated stuff weighs.

FYI – the American Plywood Association (APA), recommends using their rated sheathing for floors.  Specifically, their APA Rated Sturd-I-Floor product.  It is intended to be used as a single-layer flooring material or as a subfloor/underlayment for padding and carpeting.  The panel surface has extra resistance to punch-through damage.  It is available in the following thicknesses (measured in inches):  19/32, 3/8, 7/16, 15/32, ½, 19/32, and 5/8.  That is the product I have specified on projects where there is a need for it.  The Structural Engineers that I have dealt with when designing wood frame construction, have always specified a minimum of one half inch (1/2”) plywood to be used as a subfloor over floor joists that are set 16” on center, that would receive only a light covering of padding and w2w carpeting.  It would be thicker if wood strip flooring, or a thin-set mortar bed with either ceramic tile, quarry tile or stone flooring would be installed on top of it.  Also, the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends the use of a minimum 19/32” performance category wood structural panels (CDX plywood or OSB) as a subfloor material when the floor joists are spaced at 16 inches on center.

As I said earlier, you are free to use whatever size (thickness) plywood as a subfloor in your home, but when it comes to someone else’s home, it is a very different matter for all the reasons I stated in earlier posts in this thread.  Good luck in your future exploration of attics and take a tape measure with you and see if you can determine what the thickness is of the plywood used for their flooring…..

AVB-AMG

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6 minutes ago, Handyman said:

Oy vay! 

The amount of time it takes you guys to dick around with an attic floor I could have build you a whole new house.

@Handyman:

Ok Mr. Expediter Erector, what is the thickness of your attic flooring and what is the depth of its floor joists....?  :scratchhead:

AVB-AMG

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6 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

But to continue to post your inaccurate and uneducated statements is not helpful to the O.P. 

Talk about uneducated statements. I went looking to see if this 2" offset sistering of joists was some new type of construction. I started building custom residential housing when you were still picking your nose in middle school, and I have NEVER seen a single instance of offsetting joists 2" to sister them. Is this some new common core architecture, just like the new screwed up common core math?

I even went and searched in all types of construction forums and web sites to see if I could find a single example, nope, not a single one. In every case of sistered 2x6's, they were placed directly next to each other at the same height, basically to make a 4x6, not a offset higher joist.

I challenge you to post examples where this was done in residential construction.

While there are different ways to sister existing joists, the majority all use the same size joist and join them on the same plane, not offset 2".

9c737c67987c7e6eb25be34d522f2feb.jpg

e972c6cd90da5edb4e1bd98a89da09fc.jpg

6 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

Maybe your real intention of your continued posts in this thread, with your persistent and tiresome naive assumptions of structural engineering, that are either misunderstood or just plain wrong, are also just to provoke a needless silly debate.  Once again, I suggest that you stick to topics that you are more informed, educated and experienced with and not continue to do your "fly-by" ignorant assertions and incorrect statements.  

@AVB-AMG

In your true fashion, you come on here with your "I'm smarter then everyone here" attitude, and your demeaning, and belittling posts, when you know crap about what a persons actual background and experience is. I went through this bullshit before with you, when you were mocking people here about lack of education, until I had to remind you I had two engineering degrees. It's a consistent pattern, where you think you're FAR superior to everyone here. Guess what, Bud, guess again!

Here's another hint for you, I built custom residential housing, and later on when on to designing and building custom medical and dental offices in all types of structures and buildings. As a matter of fact, I lost count on how many times I had to re-design and field engineer errors on plans that came from some clown with AIA after his name. The majority of you clowns with AIA after your names don't know which end of a hammer to hold, but think you have all the answers. It's a joke.

So, you can try and impress other people here with your BS and short novels talking about nonsense, but leave the practical, reality based construction to the guys who have decades of hands on experience in the field, not a clown sitting behind a CAD program.

Now, I wait for you to provide some verifiable links or details showing that offsetting 2x6 joists 2" is the correct way to sister them.

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I’m not so sure about that. By over weighting the joists it could allow to cause racking in the rafters thereby eliminating any safety measures in place for 8 tiny rain deer.  We should start talking safety nets available at Santa.com. 

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5 hours ago, Sniper said:

Talk about uneducated statements. I went looking to see if this 2" offset sistering of joists was some new type of construction. I started building custom residential housing when you were still picking your nose in middle school, and I have NEVER seen a single instance of offsetting joists 2" to sister them. Is this some new common core architecture, just like the new screwed up common core math?

I even went and searched in all types of construction forums and web sites to see if I could find a single example, nope, not a single one. In every case of sistered 2x6's, they were placed directly next to each other at the same height, basically to make a 4x6, not a offset higher joist.

I challenge you to post examples where this was done in residential construction.

While there are different ways to sister existing joists, the majority all use the same size joist and join them on the same plane, not offset 2".

9c737c67987c7e6eb25be34d522f2feb.jpg

e972c6cd90da5edb4e1bd98a89da09fc.jpg

@AVB-AMG

In your true fashion, you come on here with your "I'm smarter then everyone here" attitude, and your demeaning, and belittling posts, when you know crap about what a persons actual background and experience is. I went through this bullshit before with you, when you were mocking people here about lack of education, until I had to remind you I had two engineering degrees. It's a consistent pattern, where you think you're FAR superior to everyone here. Guess what, Bud, guess again!

Here's another hint for you, I built custom residential housing, and later on when on to designing and building custom medical and dental offices in all types of structures and buildings. As a matter of fact, I lost count on how many times I had to re-design and field engineer errors on plans that came from some clown with AIA after his name. The majority of you clowns with AIA after your names don't know which end of a hammer to hold, but think you have all the answers. It's a joke.

So, you can try and impress other people here with your BS and short novels talking about nonsense, but leave the practical, reality based construction to the guys who have decades of hands on experience in the field, not a clown sitting behind a CAD program.

Now, I wait for you to provide some verifiable links or details showing that offsetting 2x6 joists 2" is the correct way to sister them.

I will agree with Sniper here.  Never saw a sistered joist that was staggered.  Kinda like using "stainless steel" bolts in an attic.  Waste of money and too soft for structural bolts.

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On 4/12/2019 at 1:37 AM, Sniper said:

I even went and searched in all types of construction forums and web sites to see if I could find a single example, nope, not a single one. In every case of sistered 2x6's, they were placed directly next to each other at the same height, basically to make a 4x6, not a offset higher joist.

I challenge you to post examples where this was done in residential construction.

While there are different ways to sister existing joists, the majority all use the same size joist and join them on the same plane, not offset 2".

Now, I wait for you to provide some verifiable links or details showing that offsetting 2x6 joists 2" is the correct way to sister them.

@Sniper:

I admit and agree that the most common form of sistering any floor joist is to use the same sized member and attaching it to the existing joist without an offset.  In addition to providing added stiffness and load supporting capacity, the suggested option of the 2" offset allows for the installation of additional deeper insulation material, something that the O.P. was contemplating.  I never said that the offset sistered joists is the only way to accomplish his goal, but just one idea.  I have seen this method used on one residential renovation project a number of years ago that one of my associates was working on.  Its configuration was calculated and verified by the project's Structural Engineer and used successfully.  Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of that framing before it was enclosed.

As far as your assertion that I believe that I "am smarter and far superior than everyone here", you are welcome to your feelings and opinion.  I will disagree with that, but it does not really matter what I think.  Unlike you, I know what I know and also know what I don’t know and do not pretend to be knowledgeable, let alone an expert on everything, like you come across doing in so many of your posts. You apparently have a bug up your ass regarding professional Architects and Structural Engineers, which is your problem, not mine.  My original criticism of your posts in this thread remain valid.  If your claimed construction experience is true, it unfortunately does not seem to have taught you about how structural loads are transferred to bearing walls in either balloon or platform wood residential construction.  Keep in mind, we do not know what the age is or construction type is of the O.P.'s house.

I agree that multiple actual experiences of taking a project all the way through the programming, design, documentation, bidding and construction phases is the best way to learn the practical realities of materials and how they are joined together.  IMHO, it probably takes 10-15+ years of this sort of experience before one feels truly comfortable with what they have learned, both in a formal academic classroom AND from real life experience, working with experienced tradesmen on site.  I consider that entire process to be a collaborative one with a team, not just of the design professionals, but with the G.C., trade contractors, consultants, suppliers and fabricators.  I have no problem listening to suggestions of alternative approaches and/or beneficial substitutions, if they will result in a better project outcome, preferably saving the Owner time and/or money.  I have offered one approach here for the O.P. to consider and have never said it is the only solution to meet his goal.  More importantly, I have also strongly suggested that he consult with a local registered Architect or Structural Engineer who are actively involved in and experienced with structural wood construction in residential renovations, to come to his home and examine what exactly the existing conditions are and determine what the various feasible options are for him to consider.  IMHO, that is the most responsible approach to take.

AVB-AMG 

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1 hour ago, AVB-AMG said:

Unlike you, I know what I know and also know what I don’t know and do not pretend to be knowledgeable, let alone an expert on everything, like you come across doing in so many of your posts. You apparently have a bug up your ass regarding professional Architects and Structural Engineers, which is your problem, not mine.  My original criticism of your posts in this thread remain valid.  If your claimed construction experience is true, it unfortunately does not seem to have taught you about how structural loads are transferred to bearing walls in balloon wood residential construction. 

I also know what I know and also what I've learned with schooling and practical hands on experience for over 3 DECADES. It's really sad that you just can't handle any criticism and have to deal with someone who has equal or more knowledge than you on a subject. That's YOUR problem.

So, let's put this to bed, pulling information from sources that have just a bit of experience in this area. The OP stated he had a span of 10'-3" to his load bearing wall and the joists were 2x6's. So, let's plug that information into a structural calculator. Hey @AVB-AMG, have you ever heard of: American Wood Council? Seems they have a little bit of knowledge, right?

So, normal live load for an attic with simple storage would be 20 pounds per square foot (psf). I'm going to up that to 30 psf for an added safety factor (how's that AVB?) plus have a dead load rating of 10 psf. Lets see the results:

 

awc1.jpg

awc2.jpg

So, based on that calculation, the existing 2x6's should be acceptable structurally as they are, without doing the whole sistering project, to hold the weight of the storage with an added 10 psf live load.

Now, let's just check another source from a guy that has used a hammer once or twice on his life. Here's his views on attic storage and support:

INSTALLING ATTIC FLOORING FOR LIGHT STORAGE ONLY

If your attic joists won’t bear the weight necessary to finish out a living space but the engineer cleared them to support floor decking for light storage, you can install ½-inch plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) in 4-foot-by-8-foot panels over existing 16-inch OC joists. For joists spaced 24 inches OC, use thicker, ¾-inch plywood to prevent sagging between them.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/attic-flooring/

I would bet most of you would think Bob Villa would know a thing or two about this subject.

So, to repost what I said days ago:

On 4/10/2019 at 12:58 AM, Sniper said:

So, back to the OP, unless he has some really long open spans that the ceiling joists run across, 2x6's with 1/2" plywood would be fine for the average attic storage. The only weight on those joists now is the ceiling sheetrock on the bottom of the joists.16" OC is fine for that application.

So, Based on that information, the OP can rest assured that his Christmas decorations won't end up in his bedroom.

@AVB-AMG and @Zeke, what your professional opinion, since you're experts?

 

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@Sniper:

Let me try to explain this clearly to you.  The design solution of the O.P.’s issue cannot be considered in a vacuum, which you seem to be doing.  The original horizontal 2x6 ceiling joists are 20 ft. 6 in. long and were adequate to serve their original purpose of connecting to and forming bracing of the roof rafters, to address roof dead load as well as the possible live loads, including snow, ice and wind.

Now, the O.P. wants to use some of the space in the attic for storage space.  So the existing horizontal 2x6 joists need to be augmented to provide additional stiffness and load bearing capacity. 

You left out an important result of using that American Wood Council calculator, which is the following information of the 2x6 joist:

The Maximum Horizontal Span is: 
10 ft. 0 in.
with a minimum bearing length of 0.53 in. 
required at each end of the member.

Property Value
Species Spruce-Pine-Fir (South)
Grade Select Structural
Size 2x6
Modulus of Elasticity (E) 1300000 psi
Bending Strength (Fb) 1943.5 psi
Bearing Strength (Fcp) 335 psi
Shear Strength (Fv) 135 psi

So according to this online calculator, the actual clear span of the O.P's existing 2x6 ceiling joists are just over (exceeding), their recommended span, which should be of concern.  Also, this online calculator does not address wind load or seismic load that needs to also be taken into consideration.  As a licensed Architect, I also read and realize the limitation of these rather simplistic calculators and highlight their disclaimer below:

"While every effort has been made to insure the accuracy of the information presented, and special effort has been made to assure that the information reflects the state-of-the-art, neither the American Wood Council nor its members assume any responsibility for any particular design 
using this Online Span Calculator assume all liability from its use"
 
 prepared from this Online Span Calculator. Those

Keep in mind that different building codes vary in what they require for various types of spaces.  Basically, a design load is a combination of both dead load and live load.  Design loads will be significantly less than the load that will cause the 2x6 wood joists to bend, deflect or ultimately crack and fail.  The O.P. has expressed that he does not want his bedroom ceiling below to bend and he would also like to consider the option to use additional insulation between those joists to gain a higher R-Value.

U.S. building codes specify a uniform live load of 40 pounds per square foot (psf) for most residential floor designs. This load is intended to account for the large number of loads that can occur in a residence. In reality, these loads do not typically take the form of uniform loads. They generally consist of furniture, appliances and a myriad of other furnishings that actually induce individual point loads.  According to the International Building Code for residential construction (2009), they indicate that design live loads will vary based on a number of factors, but at a minimum, 10 psf live load for attics without storage, 20 psf live load with limited storage, and 30 psf for habitable attics or attics for significant storage, served with fixed stairs.  I am more conservative and when I take into consideration the other original purpose of those 2x6 joists and bracking, I would design the augmented/sistered 2x6 joists to accommodate a 40 psf live load and specify a minimum of ½ inch thick plywood, preferably 5/8 inch for added diaphragm stiffness. 

As I said before, who knows what a future homeowner of that house will decide to store up in that attic and I would want to error on the side of caution to allow for a much heavier live load in that scenario.  I would also ensure that high quality wood products and screw fasteners are used and that the installation is properly framed, set, blocked, anchored and braced to ensure the the result has all of the necessary strength and rigidity, not just for the added live load but also to address the possible lateral loads that may be imposed on it.

Some people, (you), might consider this over design, but I do not.  The cost is not that much more and the peace of mind one will have, is worth it in my opinion.

AVB-AMG

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1 hour ago, Zeke said:

First response in this thread. If he wants more r value ability, what Avb is saying.

But he said he wasn't interested in that. He was concerned about storage.

On 4/9/2019 at 8:29 AM, EngineerJet said:

Not concerned about insulation.

Try reading comprehension next time. Here, try this, it won't hurt so much next time:

71iRlpuZAUL._SL1500_.jpg

and don't be a "sheep" and follow people blindly.

 

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2 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

Let me try to explain this clearly to you.  The design solution of the O.P.’s issue cannot be considered in a vacuum, which you seem to be doing. 

Well no, you're wrong again. I touched on that days ago. Please try and keep up when pushing your superiority:

On 4/10/2019 at 11:37 AM, Sniper said:

I stated there were variables the OP needed to consider in how his existing structure is built and supported. Without seeing his situation, everyone here is just speculating. I gave some general information based on normal conditions,

So, based on limited information, we can give recommendations based on traditional, normal situations.

2 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

The original horizontal 2x6 ceiling joists are 20 ft. 6 in. long and were adequate to serve their original purpose of connecting to and forming bracing of the roof rafters, to address roof dead load as well as the possible live loads, including snow, ice and wind.

Now, the O.P. wants to use some of the space in the attic for storage space.  So the existing horizontal 2x6 joists need to be augmented to provide additional stiffness and load bearing capacity. 

Once again, try reading comprehension from the OP:

On 4/10/2019 at 7:56 AM, EngineerJet said:

I'll mainly be loading towards the center with the wall support and avoiding the ends. from center id say i want a storage area to span maybe 12-14 feet. Mostly christmas decorations and other boxes that tend to weigh less than 4 pounds.

So, he's planning on loading the lightweight boxes generally over the load bearing wall in the center of the house. There's zero reason and need to double up and sister additional 2x6's in that situation. The load bearing wall directly below supporting the 2x6's  plays a big part here.

2 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

U.S. building codes specify a uniform live load of 40 pounds per square foot (psf) for most residential floor designs.

Stop with the straw men, we weren't discussing main floors, it's attics.. please focus.

2 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

According to the International Building Code for residential construction (2009), they indicate that design live loads will vary based on a number of factors, but at a minimum, 10 psf live load for attics without storage, 20 psf live load with limited storage, and 30 psf for habitable attics or attics for significant storage, served with fixed stairs.

And since it's a attic with proposed light storage, 20 psf is normal design, but I used 30 psf above to give some additional leeway. He's not planning on living in his attic.

2 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

As I said before, who knows what a future homeowner of that house will decide to store up in that attic and I would want to error on the side of caution to allow for a much heavier live load in that scenario. 

Some people, (you), might consider this over design, but I do not.  The cost is not that much more and the peace of mind one will have, is worth it in my opinion. 

That's all great, but that's not his responsibility. A future homeowner would have to determine if the attic was suitable for what they want to put up there. The OP wants to store his holiday decorations and some misc stuff.

Of course you wouldn't consider this over design, and this has been my big issue with the AIA guys. Over design and over spec, because it's not their time or not their money, and they have hardly any real world field experience. Hell, why don't you recommend 2x12's, after all, he might want to put an additional floor on the house.

 

Liveload.jpg

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18 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

@Handyman:

Ok Mr. Expediter Erector, what is the thickness of your attic flooring and what is the depth of its floor joists....?  :scratchhead:

AVB-AMG

Hell if I know. I've got more crap up there that you could fit in a C-130.

When the ceiling sags I just brace it with a 4x4 and a bottle jack from Harbour Freight.

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2 minutes ago, Handyman said:

Hell if I know. I've got more crap up there that you could fit in a C-130.

When the ceiling sags I just brace it with a 4x4 and a bottle jack from Harbour Freight.

@Handyman:

FYI - it is my professional opinion that your solution to your sagging ceiling is a viable solution....   Good job!
Let me guess.....  originally, you also probably only planned to store your Christmas ornaments up in your attic.... right?

AVB-AMG

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@Sniper:

Well you are the self-proclaimed expert on all of this.....  I hope you are satisfied with yourself, always wanting to have the last word on any topic.  It is quite obvious to me and others that you stubbornly refuse to learn anything from what others bring up and suggest, since you know it all.  What you fail to understand and accept is that any licensed Architect or Structural Engineer, when designing the structure for any building, has to take in multiple variable factors to determine the worse case scenario.  That includes a conservative safety factor.  You may think that is over-design but that is part of the reason we have building codes and we have to be licensed, to ensure the life safety aspects of a building.  I think the O.P. has heard and observed enough of your diatribes, as well as my suggestions, to be able to figure out what he should do now.

From what I can gather, I believe that a key difference between you and me is that while I am also self-confident and think I know quite a bit, I also have humility and understand that there is much more that I do not know and can learn.  I want to learn.... Apparently, you do not.

Also, you seem intent on just cutting and pasting things you find on the internet to supposedly prove your point, without taking other variables into account.  If structural design were that easy then nobody would need an Architect or Structural Engineer to design a building.  Suit yourself and do it your way.....  I certainly would not want to occupy, let alone live or work in any building or structure that you were involved with the planning, design and/or construction, since I would not feel reliably safe, nor would anyone else. 

Your constant attitude that you know it all, that you are right and everyone else is wrong, is not just irritating, but makes me realize just how insecure you must be, for whatever reason.  I do feel sorry for you.  Your linear thinking, stubborn repetition of incorrect assertions, combined with your refusal to acknowledge anyone's ideas or suggestions as having any validity or merit is why I cannot and do not take you seriously and do not respect you.

AVB-AMG

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3 minutes ago, AVB-AMG said:

@Handyman:

FYI - it is my professional opinion that your solution to your sagging ceiling is a viable solution....   Good job!
Let me guess.....  originally, you also probably only planned to store your Christmas ornaments up in your attic.... right?

AVB-AMG

No way, that's where I keep my surplus ammo, weed and booze. 

Only problem is the floor started sagging under the bottle jacks, so I had to put more bottle jacks and 4x4s under them in the basement. I bet they didn't teach you stuff like this in your fancy construction school!

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4 hours ago, AVB-AMG said:

It is quite obvious to me and others that you stubbornly refuse to learn anything from what others bring up and suggest, since you know it all.  What you fail to understand and accept is that any licensed Architect or Structural Engineer, when designing the structure for any building, has to take in multiple variable factors to determine the worse case scenario. 

@AVB-AMG

I'm all about learning something new from more educated people. That's why I asked you to provide verifiable links and data to this wonderful 2" offset joist sistering method. It's the first time I ever heard of it in multiple decades, so it must be revolutionary, a thing that experienced Architects and Structural Engineers use all the time today.

So please, I want to learn about this awesome new way to build additional structural integrity to joists. I searched all over and couldn't find a single reference anywhere. It must be the best kept secret in he construction industry today.

Please post all the construction links showing this offset joist sistering so I can learn from the smartest guy on the forum. I would appreciate links to the new code books showing that this is the approved way to add support to joists too. My current code references don't have it yet.

While you're at it, please post the links to the references where stainless steel screws are required to fasten together these joists too, versus using wood screws, lag bolts or through bolting with Grade 8 bolts. These stainless steel screws must also be a new construction secret. Or, are we worrying that the salt air and corrosion in the attic will degrade the normally used fasteners.

And lastly, if you're so concerned about covering any additional weight someone might put in the attic, why didn't you specify he use PSL or LVL beams instead of this abnormal 2" offset sistering? These type of beams are regularly used to cross spans for support, or were you not aware of them?

All you seem to be able to do is type walls of text with no verifiable or reference data. So, I'm still waiting for the links, data and construction methods on your recommend construction method of offset sistering. I'm willing to learn this new technique from someone brilliant like yourself!

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I stopped reading at AVB's suggest that typical houses have balloon framing.  Not since the 1920s has balloon framing been in widespread use.  2x6 depends on the span for code.  However if you aren't planning on putting heavy items in the attic and are only using for storage the 2'x2' 3/4 T&G would be the easiest to install and best bet.  If you are really concerned with strengthening then add 2"x10" joists.  Its an overkill and completely unnecessary IMO.  You can also reduce the load some by installing collar ties between the ceiling joists and roof rafters.

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7 hours ago, capt14k said:

I stopped reading at AVB's suggest that typical houses have balloon framing.  Not since the 1920s has balloon framing been in widespread use.  2x6 depends on the span for code.  However if you aren't planning on putting heavy items in the attic and are only using for storage the 2'x2' 3/4 T&G would be the easiest to install and best bet.  If you are really concerned with strengthening then add 2"x10" joists.  Its an overkill and completely unnecessary IMO.  You can also reduce the load some by installing collar ties between the ceiling joists and roof rafters.

Huh? Not to sound smart here but collar ties connect 2 rafters together...not ceiling joist to roof rafter.

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