Jump to content
Bully

Building a... (gulp!) Glock

Recommended Posts

I’m just catching this thread now.

Bully, you got good advice so far and made some good purchases.

I have the Overwatch triggers same as Mrs.Z. I like the Falx - I’m not a fan of flat faced triggers. 

KKM is my go to barrel, but I have tried some others. Lone Wolf is OK - I have an original and an Alpha .40-9mm Conversion barrel. I also grabbed a Victory first G19 barrel and I am really liking it. Great value to be had there.

Understand that no matter what the advertisement says, you will never get a 1911 trigger feel on a Glock. If you are looking for the feel of a 1911 trigger, get a 1911. That being said, you can clean the Glock trigger up a bit though without sacrificing safety.

First thing I would recommend is the Apex Striker Safety Plunger for the slide - if you have not already grabbed one. Makes a huge difference in the way the trigger feels. I’d rather a stock OEM trigger with the Apex plunger than an aftermarket trigger and a stock plunger.

Second, throw a Ghost connector in there and you are golden. There are lots of options from Ghost. Some require fitting, some don’t. Find one you like, it’s pretty subjective. They are pretty cost effective, so you can try a few without killing your wallet. Remember, the higher “weight” the trigger pull, the crisper the break. As you get lower weight trigger connectors, you will start to get that spongey-feel.

Finally, look at aftermarket triggers. I see you grabbed one already - the Apex is a solid choice by reputation, but I have no time on one.

Don't mess with springs until you get time on the gun so you know what feels different. I use all Wolff springs at the stock weights in all of my Glocks (except for the Recoil Springs - I use OEM for that).

The Apex No Fail Extractor is a good investment as well. It won’t change the way the gun shoots. But is a nice add-on especially if your gun is throwing brass in your face instead of to the side.

For the holsters - what’s your purpose? Carry? CCW? Competition? You 100% going to put a comp in it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@High Exposure

Thank you. 

I have the stock plunger that I put a good polish on. It seems pretty clean to my non-discerning trigger finger. Break is clean. A bit on the heavier side, I’m thinking 4.5-5 lbs as a seat of the pants guess. That’s fine for me. The connector is an Apex and again, seems fine to me. I’m used to DA triggers on revolvers so this is all good in my head. As far as springs, I’ll run what I have until I figure out what I want out of the gun and what it’s doing while getting run.

As for the barrel, I’m gonna run the stock barrel for the moment. I plan to flush it to the slide. I also have some minor slide treatments that I’m planning on as I now have a milling machine. I have the threaded LWD barrel as it came with the package. I’m not 100% on using it and as of this moment won’t “build” it into the gun. I’m fine with sitting on it. That means that for the moment, no comp. 

Holster will be a gaming holster. I don’t CCW except around the house very occasionally. I have another pistol for that. And by gaming, I mean super casual Sunday nights at Tenafly once they start back up. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can’t wait to see what you do brother! I love the look of the barrels flush to the slide, and I like some of the custom slide lightening millwork out there.

I prefer duty type holsters - even for competition. The Safariland ALS is my go-to. They fully cover and protect the gun, they are secure, and the release is lightning fast. Lots of mounting options for ride height and belt attachment as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

I can’t wait to see what you do brother! I love the look of the barrels flush to the slide, and I like some of the custom slide lightening millwork out there.

I prefer duty type holsters - even for competition. The Safariland ALS is my go-to. They fully cover and protect the gun, they are secure, and the release is lightning fast. Lots of mounting options for ride height and belt attachment as well.

Thank you. 

Ive  been looking at the Red Hill Tactical stuff. I will be running an optic so will need the front cut to accommodate that. Additionally, a duty holster is probably, in some ways, a bit of overkill for me. To further up the ante, the RHT is available with sparkles...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry @High Exposure, I'm gonna run a compensator.  

I took the pistol to the range to make sure it runs.  It does.  Very well, actually.  Now to add stuff until that stops and back it up a bit...  Just kidding.  But I do have a comp from Carver on the way.  I grabbed the 2 port.  Seems a nice compromise between recoil mitigation and size.  

I also need to load up some ammo soon for this pistol.  Always a good time.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No need to apologize. I have a Roland Special Clone with a KKM Barrel and Comp. Fits perfectly in my Safariland ALS holster for a Glock 34.

These 3 pistols all fit in the same Safariland 6360RDS and 6354DO NSW holsters:

9oKUFea.jpg

G35 with iron sights and X300U

G34 with RMR and TLR-1

G19 with RMR, KKM Comp, and X300U

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, High Exposure said:

No need to apologize. I have a Roland Special Clone with a KKM Barrel and Comp. Fits perfectly in my Safariland ALS holster for a Glock 34.

These 3 pistols all fit in the same Safariland 6360RDS and 6354DO NSW holsters:

9oKUFea.jpg

G35 with iron sights and X300U

G34 with RMR and TLR-1

G19 with RMR, KKM Comp, and X300U

I'll take another look.  I'm just really not needing anything other than a passive retention.  They seem much more geared to duty gear.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

Look at the ALS only 6354DO holster. Secure retention, automatically locks in, security release adds absolutely zero time to the draw.

I took a look.  It's overkill for me at this time.  I don't need retention and would prefer something cut lower in the front so I can get out of the holster a bit easier.  This is more of a "game" gun/rig.  I don't carry either for work or in the outside world at all.  Thank you for the suggestions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the add ins are added. Mag release is in and I have to say I like it a lot. I have a bum thumb so I find a paddle style on small releases work much better than stock for me.

Heading to the range for function check Monday I hope. 

49F145E3-EF15-4B0D-A9AB-7BA167080AFF.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good!

Bring your standard mag release and the tools you’d need to swap the mag release out when you go to the range. 

Those extended paddles have a tendency to drop mags while shooting for some people. The paddle extends to right where you want your hand to be to grip the pistol best.

I have little hands and like the paddle so I can reach the release without shifting my whole grip, but had to go back to a Vickers release (extended but no paddle) because I constantly dropped mags while shooting with the paddle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, High Exposure said:

Looking good!

Bring your standard mag release and the tools you’d need to swap the mag release out when you go to the range. 

Those extended paddles have a tendency to drop mags while shooting for some people. The paddle extends to right where you want your hand to be to grip the pistol best.

I have little hands and like the paddle so I can reach the release without shifting my whole grip, but had to go back to a Vickers release (extended but no paddle) because I constantly dropped mags while shooting with the paddle.

I run paddles on my 1911's.  I have not accidentally dropped a mag yet.  If it weren't for this stupid injury, I wouldn't run them at all.  

I will for sure bring everything to the range with me when I test fire.  Thanks for the advice and suggestions.  All are much appreciated.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, Monday I went to the range...

When I was on the phone with Carver buying the comp, he told me that if I don't replace the recoil spring with something lighter, I would get FTE's.  Well, I did.  New recoil spring and guide rod should be here today.  

I also have a Vortex Venom MRDS on the way.  Now I just have to figure out how to mount the darn thing.  It's all fun and games for me at this point though.  I'm stoked and honestly surprised how much I enjoy shooting it.  

My buddy is loaning me some mag pouches and a holster.  They'll get me rolling for a bit.  I'm looking for a belt and once I source one I like I'll start practicing with the set-up to get my draw consistent.  Look out Tenafly...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...



  • 63 How important is it for you to have your next pistol be "Optics Ready?"

    1. 1. How important is it for you to have your next pistol be "Optics Ready?"


      • Very, (Do not want to pay for slide cutting, Looks cool, etc.)
      • Neutral (don't have a preference either way)
      • Not at all (not a feature I am looking for).
    2. 2. How much are you willing to pay for "Optics ready"? (i.e. gun is cut for an optic)


      • Up to $50
      • $50 to $100
      • $100 to $200
      • $250 or more
      • None. If it is not standard part of the gun, not willing to pay more for a model with it.
    3. 3. Why are you looking for Optics Ready?


      • Planning on adding optic.
      • Want to have the option just in case
      • n/a
    4. 4. Why do you want to add an optic?


      • Looks cool/tactical or someone told me I should
      • Need it for deteriorating eyesight.
      • To compete in certain gun games (USPSA Carry Optics)
      • Other Reasons

  •  

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • I always appreciated the tools that were made in an era when quality mattered and tools were built in the USA to last a lifetime. So, I restore those tools as a hobby. I don't make any money doing this. It almost always cost me more than I get back - it's a hobby, the 100's of hrs of my labor are free. But I try to at least cover my costs. My latest restoration is this Vintage Walker Turner bandsaw on its correct restored vintage stand. Complete nut and bolt restoration. Stripped to bare metal, moving parts polished, new bearings, new paint. The only thing left to do is bolt in the motor of which I have several that you can choose from.  This saw was built to last. Solid cast iron, it is very heavy, has zero flex, bearings/shaft run in an oil bath and it will run forever (compare that to the cast pot metal / aluminum / plastic / nylon bushing crap that they make today). A beautiful rugged tool made when quality was most important. Smooth and quiet. $350. (a steal considering I have 200 hrs in this)  
    • Can you specify what date and time this was?  And of course the VIN number of that ZL1. =P @Malsua very cool to be able to do that without being concerned about $$$$$$$. Very cool, especially in a Ford Focus ST. Fastest for me, outside of track, was a Vette C6 somewhere on Florida pike between West Palm Beach and Orlando.... 120 or so.
    • robbing a bank was a great line, literally laughed out loud while on a conference call!  had mute on luckily  
    • In preparation for a move I am selling all of my larger shop tools. Look for other listings to come soon. I know what it's all worth but I have a lot to sell and not a lot of spare time so am knowingly selling my equipment cheap just to get it all moved. For now I am starting with my welding gear. Lincoln AC 225 Welder Older unit from 1970. Many say the older units were made with better materials (copper, heavier metal etc.) and are more desirable. All I know is that it welds great and has never let me down. Has factory wheel kit, 20' leads, original Lincoln ground clamp and stinger. A little dirty but unit has no dents and leads are in great shape. Works as it should. $150 NAPA Plasma Cutter Manufactured in the USA by Marquette/Lincoln manuals and support are available from Lincoln. Unlike the abundant Chinese cheapie ones on the market today, this unit has no proprietary IGBT's or Mosfets inside, and is far more reliable and durable. I added front castors to the factory 2 wheel setup so it rolls really easily. 20' leads. Comes with an extra torch and loads of consumables (electrodes, tips, swirl rings and nozzles. Works great. $300 Package deal: Buy both the welder and the plasma cutter for $375 and I'll include: 55 lbs of welding rods. Yes, 55 lbs! A 50 lb can of Lincoln Fleetweld rods and a 5 lb box from Radnor. (The Lincoln rods alone were $275). 2 welding masks 2 pairs of gloves Also for sale: 3/4” Steel for Welding Table Top: This was my welding table top. With 2" slots between pieces for clamps (far more useful than a solid slab), the table measured approx. 4' x 3' when assembled. I disassembled it to move to my basement and never reassembled it. 5 pieces, 3/4” x 7” x 36” (1 piece is 45” long) Bottom side is painted for protection, tops are clean metal. Best price I could find on-line was $90 per piece. Save some real money here. $300 Superstrut for Welding Table Base: 70 ft total 4 10' lengths 2 10' lengths that have been cut 80” 40” 1 10' length cut 60” 60” $100 Victor Regulator $35(Victors are top quality made in the USA units and are $140 new)   Super package deal: Lincoln welder (150) 55 lbs of welding rods 2 welding masks 2 pairs of gloves Plasma cutter with extra torch and consumables (300) Heavy 3/4” welding table (400) Victor regulator (35) $650 OR BEST OFFER for everything above and I'll also include: 2 welding cylinders: 330 cf 75/25 argon/CO2, almost empty, needs a cert. 125 cf argon, almost full, needs a cert. Cylinders are in great shape but out of cert. and welding suppliers vary on their exchange policies so I cannot guarantee their utility. Hence they are FREE if you purchase all the other equipment.   Emglo air compressor A great made in the USA model. Not a cheapie import or box store compressor. This is a professional unit made to last. Has an oil bath pump unlike the cheaper 'dry' run pumps on the import/box store units. A testament to this is it has a service factor of 1 which means it can run continuously. Great, great compressor. This unit is not for sale alone and not included in the package. I will only sell it to the lucky guy who picks up the plasma if he needs it. $100        
    • OP, I think you said you wanted to buy local; if you decide internet I can not speak more highly of realtruck.com I bought a set of nerf bars for my truck several years ago. They rusted out within the warranty period. I got them replaced promptly by realtruck. The replacement set began rusting even faster (I was still in warranty period of 1st set). I contacted them, told them I'd lost faith in that mfg and asked if I could apply the value of that set towards a different brand. They agreed; so I kicked in the price difference and they shipped me the other mfg. Several years later the new brand still look great and are as solid as day 1. I wasn't really expecting them to agree to my request, but they stepped up big and took care of me.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information