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BobA

Click-Click

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I have an M&W shield .45. (2.0) It's always preformed great.  I had it out and suddenly it wouldn't fire. you could hear the hammer by the clicking but not even a dimple or scratch on the round.  I replaced the firing pin as I heard these sometime have issues with them.  I went out today and just a click.  Anyone ever hear of this or experience it? I couldn't tell you how many rounds are through it.  I shoot the hell out of my guns and 1000rds wouldn't surprise me.

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9 minutes ago, Maksim said:

Call Smith... I'm sure they will take  care of you.  1,000 rounds is not a lot. 

If they recommend sending it in, do I have to do the FFL-P2P shuffle or can we just ship to each other? 

 

But honestly I don't mind working on it if the answer is out there.  It's almost therapeutic. 

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48 minutes ago, BobA said:

Mag disconnect?  As in the mag is not secure?  Because you can rack them trough all day. It feeds. 

No I’m saying does it have a mag disconnect. I’m not familiar with the shield. There are a couple of safeties built in that could have failed. Sumtin is keeping the pin from striking the primer

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6 hours ago, Zeke said:

No I’m saying does it have a mag disconnect. I’m not familiar with the shield. There are a couple of safeties built in that could have failed. Sumtin is keeping the pin from striking the primer

No, no mag disconnect safety, unless OP got a CA model.

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Isn’t there a side spring for the firing-pin-trigger-block?  There is that metal loop that needs to pop to one side so it depresses the plunger. You can open up and crush that loop depending on the timing. Check the Apex site for adjusting their trigger, it’s the same bar. 

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If the trigger bar timing is off the bar could theoretically be releasing the sear without having the striker block out of the way. Do you feel the break of the sear when you’re pulling the trigger?

 

@SW9racer I thought the loop was removed from the trigger bar in the 2.0 models (I.e. no more adjustments) but maybe I’m wrong 

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5 hours ago, Shocker said:

If the trigger bar timing is off the bar could theoretically be releasing the sear without having the striker block out of the way. Do you feel the break of the sear when you’re pulling the trigger?

 

@SW9racer I thought the loop was removed from the trigger bar in the 2.0 models (I.e. no more adjustments) but maybe I’m wrong 

I do feel it. But looking at the slide from the bottom, The pin seems to be a little off center. It seems to not allow full travel of the pin for about 1/32.  I know there's a sleeve for the pin to travel and I'm wondering if it's worn to not allow the proper travel.

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The “pin” is the striker leg? Or the striker block?

 

The white sleeve is supposed to stick out a little bit at the front of the striker leg slot, that’s how you release the back plate. But I’m probably not understanding your “off center”

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12 hours ago, Shocker said:

The “pin” is the striker leg? Or the striker block?

 

The white sleeve is supposed to stick out a little bit at the front of the striker leg slot, that’s how you release the back plate. But I’m probably not understanding your “off center”

Yes it’s difficult. I’ll try to upload a picture tonight when I get home. The “sleeve” I mentioned isn’t the rear part holding the back plate. It’s a lining for the assembly. I’ll get some pics up. 

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@shocker notinotice how the striker leg is off to the center?

 

BTW I call S&W today. They refused to give me any insight and offered to fix it if I shipped it to them. All was going good until he heard I was not the original owner. The lead time then turned to possibly 8 months maybe more. I'd sooner by a new one. 

1565825097007244134661.jpg

Just now, BobA said:

@shocker notice how the striker leg is off to the center?

 

BTW I call S&W today. They refused to give me any insight and offered to fix it if I shipped it to them. All was going good until he heard I was not the original owner. The lead time then turned to possibly 8 months maybe more. I'd sooner by a new one. 

1565825097007244134661.jpg

 

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25 minutes ago, BobA said:

@shocker notinotice how the striker leg is off to the center?

 

BTW I call S&W today. They refused to give me any insight and offered to fix it if I shipped it to them. All was going good until he heard I was not the original owner. The lead time then turned to possibly 8 months maybe more. I'd sooner by a new one. 

1565825097007244134661.jpg

 

Ya sumtin don’t look right there

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I can’t really tell much from that pic...if you poke the striker block down with your finger can you move the striker forward enough to see the pin come out the breech face?

 

that white sleeve might be in wrong...would be an easy fix in person but Im on vacay 

 

what happened in between working and not working?

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If it is anything like a glock, you should be able to remove the entire striker and the tube and make sure the channel is clear and that that the tube is not blocked. If there is a spring on the striker, like in a glock, replace the spring.

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7 minutes ago, Shocker said:

I can’t really tell much from that pic...if you poke the striker block down with your finger can you move the striker forward enough to see the pin come out the breech face?

 

that white sleeve might be in wrong...would be an easy fix in person but Im on vacay 

 

what happened in between working and not working?

Yes the pin rears it’s head of I depress it. 

The pin assembly is one big happy piece  it only goes in one way  

Nothing happened between work/no work just shooting along and click.

well if you have time went you’re back I’ll make it two bottles this time.

 

 

image.jpg

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I’m just going off memory but I thought the little shoulder lump at the top of the striker leg should be INSIDE the sleeve 

 

i.e if you look at the assembly from the back with the leg at 12 o’clock that half-sleeve should be rotated counterclockwise 

 

let me google that...

 

edit: see here...the sleeve is up against/touching the leg on the right side...but I don’t know if that’s a 1.0, 2.0 or whatever 

1FE92BEB-7DCF-451E-B150-51073EF0E17F.jpeg

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The plastic at the front end looks right, that’s what captures the spring. To get that off you retract the spring and the collar slides off sideways once it’s uncovered

 

...which you’ll probably have to do, in order to reorient that back section. 

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