This might sound choppy, but I’m combining a few posts from other forums to make this thread. I feel it is definitely part review, part PSA, and part recommendation. So, I got my TLR-7 in the other day... If you buy one, check and see if the E-ring is installed. Don’t know if Streamlight doesn’t put it in so you can swap the key, but never had to install one on any of my other lights. Two come with it, as well as the tool to install/remove them, and the keys. Figured I’d mention it, as I unscrewed it all the way when I was looking it over. The screw isn’t finger tightenable anymore. I do like it is flush, but a nickel is probably your best tool for the light. Definitely have to thank Medtronic for instilling four years of carrying a nickel for the battery compartment of my insulin pump, then switching to a design on the belt clip. Guess I’ll just keep a nickel around for my TLR-7, especially if I carry it. [emoji41] Output is pretty good. My old light on the 30S was a TLR-3, so it is a big jump in Lumens. I also like the front battery loading, which likely would be beneficial for those going with the TLR-8. The lockout is nice, but it is just something I doubt I’ll ever use. Waterproof... it is nice, but never had an issue with the older designs that weren’t. The switch... I’m definitely up in the air on. It isn’t the traditional Streamlight switch that I love. But I was looking at the XC1, due to size. Hoping this switch will do me well, but I do see some potential issues. I unlocked the strobe feature, and wasn’t sure how to in the instructions. I thought you had to turn the light on/off ten times, whereas you just hit the button quick as s***, and hold on the 10th time. When I was trying to turn it on/off, I did notice myself outrunning the switch (didn’t turn on/off when it should have due to press). Something I need to train on the light and see if it is an issue (doubt it, as the switch to strobe didn’t cause any issue), so just something to consider. My other concern will be holster interaction on the switches. Remember, you can push the switch forward or in to turn the light on. Pulling out of an holster can at least do the forward, and would likely be quick enough to turn the light on constant instead of momentary. With that being said, here are some comparison pictures. My old light to the new... both I put the end of the frame at 3”, for reference. If you have a TLR-3, might be able to get some comparison before buying. And some to show profile on my 30S... One thing I hated about the TLR-3 was how it was positioned. You have three keys, and the one for the Glock had a lot of room between the light and the trigger guard. The TLR-7 is pretty damn close to touching the guard. Plus, you have six keys to figure out what will work with your gun. The one installed from the factory fits Glocks (UNIV-1). Fast forward a few days (actually yesterday when I found out about it), and I’m now unhappy with the light... but it likely will be taken care of. Flickers on dropping the slide, as well as when dry-firing. On AR15.com, a member contacted Streamlight. Said it is “anti-bounce software,” which powers the light off when a bounce is detected (for 4 milliseconds). Done to prevent the light from changing modes/shutting down. Contacted Streamlight earlier today, and played dumb. Wanted to see what they are telling people when questioned. Left a voicemail with the service manager, but was promised by the rep that transferred me to him that he will get back to me. Not going to keep a light that does that. Don’t get me wrong, it isn’t likely something that is going to be noticed when firing, but I don’t want it occurring. I spend $115 for the light, and $100+ on holsters for my Glock/TLR-7... I want the thing to stay on. Received a call back from Mark a little bit ago, confirmed what was posted on AR15.com. Told me that they are going to try to ship an upgraded part that the user can swap in themselves. Said might be completed by the end of this week, but possibly next week. Will contact those who report the issue, and let them know when they can expect to move forward with repair/upgrade. Also confirmed that the lights are good to go for shooting, just the flicker will be present until upgraded. Will add that they are actually one of my top companies that I’ve ever dealt with in regards to customer service. Will be a Streamlight customer for life if that is what I can expect from them. If people are interested in this thread, I will post what comes from this upgrade. If not, click the video above... I am going to keep the description in that up to date with everything that occurs until my light stays on through dry-fire practice.