TLDR advice to Golf Battery. Realistically, just video yourself loading some rounds on the Hornady and time your bursts of smooth reloading to get your seconds per round. Get an average, and do the math. Short of automating a 1050, you probably won't go faster than that on any press, and most of these overblown claims are not what people are actually doing in an hour, but their max cyclic rate extrapolated.
Realistically, the question is what is needing TLC on the hornady, and with team blue would you be doing 500 rph without any drama?
I have a couple of LNL-AP presses and friends with SDBs, 500s, and 650s.
So first, I have to say that I generally agree that the LNL takes more TLC to keep running based on anecdotal evidence. But from my experience, the indexing isn't the part that needs much TLC. One of my presses has about 125k rounds on it, and I have had to adjust indexing on it all of three times. Once was preemptory after tearing my setup down and packing it for moving and not even based on actual bad behavior. There's probably something you can do about that.
Second, which dillon do you have? Because the only thing I hear people bitch about regularly is the primer system on the 650. That is one of the big changes to the 750. It moves to a more LNL like sled setup, but with the dillon adjustable primer seating stem/ram. (their approach to the seating stem is a win, the 650s primer merry-go-round is not, I don't know anyone who has a 750, but it looks like it should be a nice priming system).
The Dillon case feeder hopper is definitely better than the Hornady. The dillon's clear plastic faceplate that catches the falling shell is a better, less cheap design. That and the fact that you can adjust the speed makes it suck much less. It can still have a case hang up like the LNL, but not nearly as often. if you don't make modifications to the hornady setup, you also get pieces of brass occasionally raining on your head, which I don't recall being an issue for dillon. It's easily stopped with non permanent mods, but there's not really a fix for the collator binding on a case (this is what variable speed would help with), or cases binding in the faceplate/funnel thing in a way that doesn't trip the switch (this is what a better designed faceplate helps with).
I've generally got mine beaten into submission and just have to reach up and free the occasional binding case in the collator and have to adjust the tension on the pivot screw for the case dropping bit. As far as I am concerned, their instructions are questionable and their suggestions about which pieces to combine for a given caliber are very wrong.
The main thing that was super, super screwed up is how the pivoting case drop is mounted to the arm that holds the case feeder. If you have an old one it is just sort of wedged on a nut. I fixed mine wit a piece of angle iron and a bit of shimming. Hornady now has changed things up to have a bracket to hold it in place. It's a stupid design. Dillon owners don't have to do this shit. Stupid original design is on top, my fix is in the middle, Hornady's is on the bottom.
Take the rate's quoted by people on the internet with a grain of salt the size of Montana. Lots of schmucks saying stuff to look impressive and are outright lying or have a bunch of caveats they aren't adding to their explanation. Even with the bragging and the OCD people with a system, and the people with zero quality control, you see a lot of people in the 400-500 range for the 550, and 400-600 range for the 657/750.
The dude telling me he loads 1200rph on a SDB but then says they don't load more than 200 rounds at a time is not a useful data point.
For dillon gear, the name is dillon's take on hourly throughput with a case feeder, and the reality is that most people don't get to that, especially if your metric is "I want to go make 500 rounds right now, how many minutes until I have 500 rounds boxed up". On the LNL-AP I can do just about 3 seconds a round with .40 or .45... right up until I have to grab another handful of bullets, and my QC is minimal. In my world, me claiming I can do 1200 rounds per hour because of that is total bullshit, for others it isn't cause math or something. People I know well and deal with in real life have rates around 400 rph with the 550, 600 rph with the 650, and 700 and change with the 1050. For straight walled pistol using a case feeder on the 650 and 1050. For me I can do about a round every 5 seconds with visual inspection. That'd be a cyclic rate of 750 per hour, but reality is I seldom load more than 300 at a go. My SOP when doing that is to tighten the pivot bolt on my case feeder, check the bolt on the shell plate isn't loosening, load up the primer tubes using my vibra prime, load 100, gauge them all with my armanov 100 round gauge, mark them and box them, then repeat that for the next 200 and go do something else. This takes about 35 minutes and the only work not included in that is cleaning the brass.
So my fairly objective (IMO) take on red vs blue here.
-blue wins on QC. IMO hornady's biggest problem is that if they get a bum part, they will ship that bum part until it is gone. Dillon fixes something so it is fixed the first time. Dillon also has less bum parts creep into the pipeline.
-blue wins on CS. Hornady's CS isn't bad, but Hornady is a bigger company doing more things, and you will occasionally wind up arguing about warranty with someone who needs more training or something.
-blue wins the locator pins vs the hornady spring retainer. The pins are a better design and is smoother. The spring can be made much, much more reliable. I've tried to explain how, but it really needs a video. If your spring comes undone and would like me to make a video on how to make it never do that, let me know. I've got 10 years of use on my current spring.
-blue wins with 6 positions vs 5. This matters a lot more of you want a bullet feeder. This can matter a lot to top speed.
- red wins the powder drop. It's always been a better poder drop in general, but for a time dillon was cheaper to get extras. Now a spare powder measure for team blue is $120, and you can catch a sale for the hornady for ~$65-70 and can get one for $95 without any work. This gets an asterisk because the dillon powder through expanders are 100%. The hornady one in .40 had issues. In theory they redesigned it, but I haven't met that one and can't vouch for it.
-red wins price generally. Right now kind of sucks and it looks like about a $100 difference. This happens regularly, and at those times I'd do team blue.
-blue still wins in aftermarket support, but the gap has narrowed a lot in the last 10 years.
-cleanliness is a draw. The new primer system on the 750 may move this to a blue win, but with the hornady, out of the box, you can wind up slinging a wee bit of powder sometimes. With the 650, you have to clean the primer merry go round regularly.
-both need roller handles added to the initial purchase price if you are going to do any kind of volume in a sitting.