raz-0

One of us is getting patterns at 50 yards, and one of us is not. Also the marines use the small aperture to hit out to 600. Guess who is right about ghost ring sights working and who is not. I'll give you a hint. I could miss the broad side of a barn at 2 yards, I'm pretty sure all the branches of the armed forces didn't fail to notice all their sights didn't work since the sixties. Nose to charging handle. Your brain likes to center things in circles you want to see... get this... A ghost image of the rear aperture when looking through it. Your brain will take care of the rest with one notable exception. If you have an astigmatism that interferes with the front sight post when centered, you may pushe it to one side to see it clearly because your brain likes to see stuff you focus on more than to center things in circles.

Just as a data point, I read a nice write up by a veteran who got to use the m1/m14 pattern rifle in the Middle East. Their position was that it fas less frequently but when it does it's not really solvable in the field. Namely things like bent op rods due to the sand. With talc like sand anything with any kind of precise tolerances is on borrowed time.

Windage functions just fine at 25, 50, 100, etcetera big aperture or small. You are doing something wrong. A canted barrel will cause some oddness with where sight adjustments move a group, but it won't make groups not move with sight adjustments.

Are you sure you aren't limp wristing it?

It was not found unconstitutional, the case was just not dismissed as baseless at the request if the state. Which bodes well, but nothing is done yet.

Handing in the receipt varies from town to town. Call and ask. It shouldn't NEED to be given back as there is no unique info. However it's not like every department is trying to make life easy.

Ammo availability is a toss up? Are you on crack? I mean the component manufacturers cut back .223 bullet production to make heads for .35 wheelen right? Oh wait. They basically eliminated production of them to make .233 and .30 heads (and not ones suitable for .30-30) And they did that because everyone and their neighbor was stockpiling .30-30 and .45-70? No it was because people were stockpiling .223. Unless you are counting .22lr lever guns, but even then I can score .233 easier than .22 right now.

There are electric primers, but normal primers would definitely be susceptible to a short heating them up.

I read that article. The only remotely compelling argument is that a 100 meter zero will be tighter because zeroing at longer distances shows finer tolerances. Their argument for about 3 inches (I.e. A bit more than three inches) vs. a bit under four inches is just pointless, especially since theirs is always hitting low. With the 50 yard zero, out to 200 I aim center of what I want to hit and I'm either <2" high or <2" low. At under 20 yards turn the gun 45 degrees and sight down the handguard. Over 200, put the bottom of the dot in top of the target (dot the i meaning of on top), and you are there instead of guessing where to put your dot. I see no compelling reason in the explanation linked, and find it odd that they don't lay out the holdovers the same for both. There caveat that it's all easy under xxx yards with targets over 8" is kind of stupid. I mean if you are interested in more than random holes in a bad guy, the vital areas are all about 8" or less. Maybe it is like mil vs moa. Some people say mild are real easy to do in your head. Personally I find moa math easy to do in my head out to distances beyond which I'd have to settle for the random holes in a minute if bad guy sized target with a red dot. Or maybe they are fans of 20" barrels. The 50-200 zero starts getting odd about 18" and isn't as clean as above. It's frikin awesome for 16" barrels though.

What ammo are you running, or did they finally come out with a di version? Have you fired it with .223 spec ammo in cold weather?

It's that cheap because the gas port is sized for the Adams arms piston system. It won't run right with a di setup.

The only reason you don't see .223 permitted is that you start having to specify bullet construction, weight, and velocity to a group of diverse individuals, some of whom have trouble identifying the sticky side of tape.

IF you are paying someone to do it, go cerakote. There heat cured product is significantly better and the price isn't much different (i.e. materials are really close in cost, and most of what you should be paying for is surface prep). Duracoat is easy to apply yourself except for the whole silicone thing. "DuraCoat will react with any uncured Silicone near your project. Even Silicone in a sealed tube across the room can cause a reaction. Usually it causes bubbles to form in the Duraoat." If you are having problems with the coating flaking off early on, that's probably your problem. From end user's reports, duracoat's warning kind of undersells the problem a bit. Longer term, unless you are spraying it over a coarse blasted surface that has been parkerized, you don't quite get the surface adhesion they claim.

That's the best way to trade up early, but unless someone has a plan where you pay less than a subsidizing plan, you are still paying jacked up service prices.

Here's the deal. Buy a subsidized phone and you hand them say $150+$30 up front and pay the $80 a month or whatever it works out to for your plan. Cost in first year is $1140. Cost second year is $960. Cost to reach the next phone is $2100. For their I can't do math plan, you pay $1230 your first year and $1210 your second year. Cost to second phone is $2450. Unless you get a trade in credit for your pristine 1 year old phone even though you admit you want new phones before 24 months because you wear them out. They want to keep their subsidy dollars and pass the whole cost of the phone onto you.

I don't think you see it in the ambush scene, but iirc seeing a helicopter go overhead is how the governor becomes aware of them.

That governor attacks soldiers who have a helicopter, but it's the better part of a year between both events, so it's a stretch to say it is the same thing.

1) good luck finding an 18 inch barrel with a carbine length gas system. I've never seen one. 2) It'll beat the crap out of the bolt as well as increase gas port erosion. 3) why would you want 11" of barrel poking out the front of a 7" handguard? It'll look absurd. A carbine with a 16" barrel has about 9" poking out. An 11" rifle length guard would get you close, but it won't cover the gas block unless you get an 18" barrel with a mid length gas system. Those are generally available.

This is why I recommend the RCBS trimmer pro with their 3 way cutter. It does all of it in one go. If you find the spinning to be too much, you can add one of these suckers to power it by drill. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-for-RCBS-Pro-M-2-trimmer-to-use-withdrill-/320858835732?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab4ad4b14 If you want to go cheap, look up possum hollow stuff. they have a drill adapter for the case trimmer and their chamfer tools. SAme basic concept as the WFT, but constructed in a much simpler manner.

Some of the best shooting rifles are 1:8. 1:8 is the right thing . I'll give an abbreviated version of my rant. The sweet spot for twist depends on twist rate, barrel length, and bullet profile. 1:8 works well for 42gr to 77gr. Basically anything that fits in the magazine. 40gr might be sub optimal or require TLC with custom loads to get ok perfomance. 1:7, 1:8, or 1:9 will work well for most ammo you can buy as they will all stabilize 50-64gr bullets just fine in a 16 inch barrel, and that covers most ammo you will find on the shelf. In my experience, I've seen better accuracy form barrels that fit 2 full twists in the overall barrel length. IN 20 inch barrels, I haven't seen much difference between 1:9 and 1:7. In 16 inch barrels, 1:8 and 1:7, while not more accurate in terms of peak accuracy, seem to shoot a greater variety of ammo accurately. for an 18" barrel meant to lean towards accuracy, I'd go with .223 wylde or 5.56 SAM-R chamber, 1:8 rifling. In terms of reasonably affordable, there's criterion's hybrid contour, rianier arms, and black hole weaponry (black hole actually makes some of rainier's barrels). The one caveat I will give you is that 18" barrels have issues with getting them gassed right. A mid length gas system overgrasses them a bit, and a rifle length system undergasses them a bit. The really right answer is the noveske intermediate length (between mid and rifle length), but then you limit your barrel choices immensely, and you limit availability of replacement gas tubes.

Month old or not, thanks for posting, I wasn't aware and got in for 2k to refresh my stockpile. It's now topped up to where I don't have to worry about bullets for another year and matches what I have in stock.

I had a possum hollow trimmer. Same basic concept although I believe the WFT is designed to reduce some of the shortcomings. For low volume it should be great, however I can say that in terms of overall performance, if you can't swing a giraud (and I can't), then the RCBS with the three way cutter does a decent job and save a lot of time by trimming and doing inside and outside chamfer in one go. I can tell you using the possum hollow chucked up in a drill, doing 100 rounds wasn't bad. Doing 300 was rough on the hands/skin. 100 was faster than 100 on the RCBS, 300 was not.

It would imply that stuff not purchased with the required paperwork from the department would not be exempt assuming it follows current "official use" exemption practices.

I'm guessing that means $2000.

I'll bump it for some views. As a note, I've officially bowed out of being one of the match directors for CJ. November's match was the last straw in terms of pulling teeth to get get stages, showing up to little or no help in the morning, and having people bitch at me for my effort.