usnmars

lol I too was there picking out some good stufff. about 130 to 3

If you are going to the auction on the 5th(I wont say wich one), the 1903 there is a wall hanger. Low serial number and considered unsafe to shoot.

Coastguard can walk to shore if their boat sinks.... arent they dept of transportation anyways?

Unless you are doing heavy sustained fire cordite is fine.

SILVER SOLDER easy to use and is commonly used for this application

I buried the spedometer on my 67 Chevelle SS on rt 80. Exhaust cutouts open loud as hell, I slowed down when the front end started lifting off the ground. You could actually move the wheel and nothing would happen, scared the hell out of myself and slowed down a little.

the front base is an integral part of the barrel. your only hope is to find an m38 front sight IIRC

a friend just emailed that to me........awesome

I thought it was NJ2AS, since their focus is the same.

If you dont clean it and you end up having problems, you are the only one to blame. Why buy a new car and never change the oil?

Not a problem Kenny, smooth transaction with a stand up guy

Well a little more progress was made today. I did a bunch of sanding and filling and the stock ready to dye. For filling in gouges I use a mix of wood glue and saw dust. I use a mix of fine dust and throw in some rough "chips" from the rasp. The longish chips will give the appearance of grain once everything is dyed and oiled. Mix the glue and dust into a peanut butter consistancy and fill your gouges. Let it sit a while and once dry sand down. The filler will have a darker appearance than the rest of the stock but once you dye it, nobody will tell. I still need to finish sand the filler in the pic but you get the idea. Before.... AFTER....(the dark spot in the middle is one of the wood chips from the rasp) Once this is all sanded down I use steel wool on the stock to make the grain "pop" a little. Then I use leather dye to stain my stocks. It gives better results and dries almost instantly. Because it is alcohol based, you can put it on after you put some Boiled Linseed Oil(BLO) on and it still works. I like this because the wood will change color a little once it gets oiled so you can go back and change it if you dont like it. Here is the first coat of dye followed by another steel wooling then its first coat of BLO. I still want it a little darker, i have a color in my head, so tomorrow I am going to mix up another batch of dye with some more brown and a little black in it. This part is really hard because it is like being an artist, taking it far but not too far. I like vintage stocks dark but not too dark so getting the mix right is tricky to do. This is the blessing of alcohol dye, you dont like it after oil dye it again. You cant do that with the regular off the shelf stain in the hardware store. Its almost done, but not quite yet.

Once the glue has dried remove the clamps and use a rasp to rough out the new piece of wood. A rasp is quick but leaves a bad finish so dont go until the repair is flush. Leave it about 1/8" high and use sand paper to get it down flush. Save your wood dust, we'll use that in the next step of making a wood filler for some random gouges on the stock.

As promised I did some work on it today. I milled out the bad area and took a scrap of walnut that matched the grain almost perfect and inletted the scrap in. You do not need a mill to do this kind of work, I normally use a chisel and a dremel but with a repair this large a mill works great. The glue I am using here is good old Titebond. Go with what is tried and true and has always worked. Since the repair is not in a high stress area I am not going to pin it like I normally would. Apply some Titebond liberally and clamp the hell out of it. You want to make sure the new piece of wood fits in the repair area tightly.

I have been PM'd several times by members on some stock repair questions. I just started a new project and figured I would address some of the more common questions as I work on my project. Kinda like a step by step tutorial type thingy. I recently came into some "scrap" M1 Garand stocks that are BEAUTIFUL, in my eyes. One man's trash is another mans treasure. All of the stocks are very strong cartouched WWII stocks that need a little help here or there, fixing cracks, chips, ect. So For tonight I started a strong EMCF McFarland inspected stock that overall is in nice shape other than the fact 1/4 of it is missing The stock is missing quite a large chunk on the front left quarter of the stock. It almost goes through one side of the stock and is about 8" long. The stamps and grain on this one are too nice to toss it and it is a fairly simple repair that will be almost undetectable when it's done. Here is what we are starting with......... My first step since I know I am going to have to do a full refinish because of the extensive work needed is to completely degrease and strip the stock. With all of the inletting and gluing I do not want to have to worry about cosmo and oil contaminating all the glue. I prefer to use Dawn Power Disolver. It is pretty much dish soap on steroids. Spray it on the stock and scrub with a scrub brush. Rinse it off after about a minute with some very hot water, scrubbing with the brush while rinsing. This gets the stock down to a clean, oil free surface. and WOW look how nice the cartouche looks.. Immediately after rinsing wipe the stock down with a dry towel to get all the excess water off. Let the stock set for a few days before continuing. Put em in a dark place out of sunlight, let them dry slow and natural to prevent warping of the wood. The stocks are drying now but I am planning on milling out the bad area tomorrow and inletting a new piece of wood. I will post pics of the progress as I go. Once the repair is done and the stock is refinished, you will almost not be able to notice the repair. This write up will cover inletting, crack repair, steaming out dents, and staining and finally a proper oil scrub. MORE UPDATES COMING AS I WORK TOMORROW

Props to this guy. If he was somewhat local i would drive out of my way to give him my business. I for one know what it feels like to have an entire industry shut down. I am an oil driller, and i for one am sticking to my guns and my bible. Ps....... what is the difference between Obama and Osama? ------------BS.

Aim just got in some match x54

Garands are my true obsession and are a completely different critter to check out than a bolt gun. If you are going to get a M1 the CMP is the only way to go. The armorers at the north store laugh when they see me because I am there so much. And if you ask nicely with a bribe of donuts and coffee they will reset your 12 rifle limit for the year

it may be cruddy flutes in the chamber. Take the little trap door at the back of the receiver that is for the trigger guard latch and rotate it 90º. Put your cleaning rod through the hole and that gives you access to the chamber with a cleaning rod. Screw on a .45 brush onto the rod and go to town scrubbing back and forth not rotational. If the flutes in the chamber are cruddy this is the way to get em clean. it takes some time but that will get the chamber area perfect. If that doesn't work you could drive out the locking key and remove the muzzle brake. It is a pain in the arse to do but it gives you access to the gas port.

Spring kits from orion 7. Pin kits, firing pin, extractors. Over time your parts stash will get big enough to build a whole nother garand. Then you start building up the stash again

Damn you SCOTT!!!! Now I will have more people biddin against me at the next auction... Why pay dealer cost when you can buy where the dealers buy. Auctions rock.

Last night I hit a local gun auction and came out like a bandit. Here is the first thing I got and it was purely an impulse buy. It's a Remington Model 37 .22 with a Hart barrel and Holman stock. I just fell in love with the gun and got it for $350,which I think the barrel alone is worth more than that. I am not a .22 guy so if you know what it is or what it's worth let me know. It has one of the lightest triggers I have felt on a gun. I am in love with it. Now I need to track down a Unertl scope for it and I will be able to have fun.

Thanks for the responses, I talked with the curator of the Navy Art Collection in DC and sent her some pics. It ends up it is an original reprint from 1973 for recruiting in the Vietnam War. So although it isn't as old as I expected, it is somewhat original as it was a Govt re-print. It still is worth some money, but not as much as the original 1917 original. Blue line, just wait till I post the other "toys" I picked up at the auction............

I picked up at an auction last night what appears to be an original 1917 US Navy recruiting poster. I got it cheap because there was almost nobody at the auction and almost no interest in it. When I got home I found out that it potentially is worth quite a bit of money and I would like to get it authenticated and properly framed. Does anybody know anything about vintage posters, or know someone who does? Here is a link to a similar poster. http://www.dpvintageposters.com/cgi-local/detail.cgi?d=5598 and once my camera charges, I will post pics of mine.

Go for the classic in 30-06. Surplus ammo is available and plentiful. You can get an adjustable gas plug for about $30 that allows you to shoot whatever off the shelf commercial ammo you feel like. The .308 is a nice caliber but just doesn't do it for me in a Garand. And anything in .308 ,other than the rare Navy or Air Force .308 Garands, is going to be a put together with no historical value. What would you have...... a Garand that possibly your grandfather carried, or one that was put together in some gun shop out of spare parts. Originality all the way.