Jon

Yea, way too much stuff out there for you to look through. Your best bet is to put them all on the short list, then pull a number out of a hat and move that one to the real short list. You'll wind up with all of them eventually.

My HK USP45 is my USP45, my USP9 is my USP9, my USP9c is my USP9 compact...

Last I talked to NJM about upping firearm limits, they offered blanket coverage, and not scheduling.

This. Takes all of 10 seconds to do.

Both Trijicon and Meprolights are available, and while you can install them with a punch, it is much much easier to use the MGW HK sight pusher($175). If you only have one set to do, you can mail the slide to HK and they will install Meprolights for you.

Unless you're using the gun for defense/protection, wait until they malfunction to clean em.

There was a lot of hoopla about the Guest Policy, but the motion was defeated. I have never waited to shoot, and the most people I have ever seen there(outside of a scheduled event) was 5.

Pass on this one. Caracal brought the hottest wimminz to SHOT, with my assumption being to take your mind off the crap that they were trying to pass off as a quality firearm.

A great method for determining used handgun values is to use the "completed auctions" search feature on Gunbroker. It requires that you have an account(free to sign up), but is well worth spending the time to do it.

Dude. Love the grips.

While I can appreciate Vlad's desire to get you to build an AR, they are definitely heavier than the 15-22. My wife has held my mid-length lightweight AR and has no desire to shoot it, whereas she LOVES sending rounds downrange through the 15-22. She is recoil-shy as well, and the blast that comes out of my AR is far more than she cares to deal with. The 15-22 is also going to be much much cheaper to shoot. Going further, where do you plan on shooting centerfire? I shoot rimfire for free at the state's WMA ranges all day long. In order to shoot centerfire I have to go into the 100yd tunnel at my home range, drive to Easton to use their range, pay to go to a public range or R14, or be guested into another private range. If you were to go the AR route, buying it complete will save you money if you just want an AR. If you want to combine a specific set of parts according to your tastes, building it will save you money. Since you're new to the game I would recommend buying an M&P15 or similar rifle, shoot it, and figure out what parts(if any) you might want to change in the future. Once you have a good idea as to what type of stuff you'd want to add, sell the M&P and build the rifle that you want from the ground up.

Had a good time yesterday, and despite being on the "slow' squad, I managed to pull out of the driveway by 12:45. Also, I snapped a pic of my score sheet, and assuming I did my math correctly, classified a solid Sharpshooter in SSP, improving by almost 20 seconds over my last classifier a month ago.

The 15-22 comes free-floated(if you remove the end-cap). Adding anything that touches the barrel(especially something that attaches with a set screw) will never be more accurate than a free-floated barrel.

I'll be there, but have to leave by 1. Hopefully I can finish my classifier before then(not holding my breath though)

That thing would be NJ legal, but it would probably screw with the gun's accuracy quite a bit,

Just to expand on that, you should be belling just as much for plated bullets as you do for lead.

7.5 or smaller, which would be numerically higher, IE 7.5, 8, 9

AWWW SHEEEIT!

I like the factory crimp die for pistol rounds as it allows me to use crappier brass that others would toss, and eliminates the need to check every loaded round for it's ability to chamber in my gun. Also, as for the bullet puller, you WILL screw rounds up, and will have to pull the bullets in order to reuse the components. This is not necessary if you're JUST starting(you can stash the screwed up rounds in a bin somewhere until you get a puller) but it is something you will need to buy eventually.

I find this to be less of a necessity, as most powders post their load data online, but it's not a bad idea. I actually use an older dial caliper, but it certainly is nice to see a number rather than count lines. Absolutely recommend the kit. The kit gives you the Large and Small Safety Prime primer feeders, Pro Auto-disk powder measure, rifle charging die, and auto-disk riser. Also, you get a perfectly suitable mechanical scale which I use to verify the accuracy of my digital scale. Like I mentioned above, I like the Lee kit since you get the mechanical scale with which you can use to verify the accuracy of your digital scale. The Frankford Arsenal scale also comes with a weight that you can use to verify accuracy, as well. I have never cleaned pistol primer pockets, and while I'm sure it makes the rounds more accurate, I don't shoot bullseye, and "combat accuracy" is sufficient for me.

http://rrages.com/magazine/15-22/index.htm

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/35839-reloading-setups-minimum-equipment-to-buy/

Due to several posts with people looking to get started, and not knowing where TO start, I thought I would put together a list of what I feel is the bare minimum for someone looking to get started with loading your own ammo. I have included both Cabela's part numbers and Midway part numbers(Cabela's part numbers are identified by "IK" preceding the number, Midway part numbers are numbers only). -Lee Classic Turret Press Kit (IK-216337) -Cabela's Electronic Caliper (IK-214967) -Cabela's Vibratory Case Tumbler Kit (IK-212869) -Cabela's Rotary Media Separator (IK-214213) -Cabela's Bullet Puller (IK-214931) -Frankford Arsenal DS-750 digital scale (175512) Pistol Specific -Lee Deluxe Carbide Pistol 4-die set (IK-214611) Rifle Specific -Lee Pacesetter Rifle Die Set (IK-210542) -Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure Double Disk Kit (870920) -Case trimmer -Primer pocket reamer -Primer pocket cleaner -Case mouth chamferring tool