Shocker

NEVER MIND SEEMS I WAS MISTAKEN The brakes themselves don't accept supressors (wouldn't do much good to try to supress sound after it's already passed through a brake), they have an adapter that threads on, e.g. the Fast-Attach, for mouting either a brake OR a hider OR a supressor. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL ATTACHMENT METHODS, APPARENTLY If our outstanding politicians wrote the law as specifically "no threaded barrels" (which I think it is the case) it would seem that you could weld the adapter piece and then be GTG for using a brake (flash hiders still banned by name?) or using other devices if you took that gun to some place in America. IANAL

Most bullet jackets, and especially target-grade FMJ's are copper + zinc (and probably some other trace contaminants) which make them all "brass". The zinc helps with manufacturability I know Montana Gold bullets (and others) are actually "yellow brass" colored though, maybe that causes some confusion? To answer the OP's questions, if you're literally talking about pure copper vs. some high alloy brasses, it would be (1) yes (2) yes (3) yes But since I'd wager no manufacturer will tell you what specific alloy they use you'll have to try them out and see what works

I used a YHM Phantom because it was the cheapest I could find. The ports got all crapped up with lead and propellant though, I might look at just a thread protector (assuming the barrel is already 16") if I got another .22 upper.

Not a big diff in momentum but a diff in energy since the velocity term is squared. Many "experts" believe tissue damage comes from energy deposition (breaking of bonds in muscle, bone takes energy). And a mushrooming or fragmenting bullet sheds energy fastest. And obviously if that energy is deposited in sheetrock there's none left for your neighbor.

Light fast bullet. It will shed energy quickly when it hits stuff. Like any other cartridge it has its purpose but if you can't afford to practice that's a big downside.

We used Pillar to Post also in Somerset County, and my wife used them for her old condo in Plainsboro. They were meh. Nothing outstanding but the the guy seemed competent.

I usually have to share my seats with my neighbors because I'm pretty thin. But I like to load up on casein right beforehand so I can fumigate the plane. Gives me some satisfaction.

I use the horsehide Theis http://theisholsters.com/holsters.php cowhide is cheaper and probably a little more flexible (since I can't carry often that horsehide is still pretty stiff) As far as the Apex, they are fantastic products and you don't need a gunsmith. I have the DCAEK on my full size but nothing yet on my shield. I intend to get night sights on the shield, I was looking at the Trijicon HD, I just have to confirm they won't hang over the sides of the slide. And save up $150 of course. I use a trimmed Hogue Handall Jr. and I like it. It was like $8 so i figured it was worth a try and I kept it.

My PD has some sort of question like "describe the applicant's character" or something. My referance wrote "good...?"

Adamantium

If you anneal your necks once in a while you could theoretically go forever.

Doesn't the GFH website say factory ammo only?

I like...but for that price I'd look elsewhere first...

I never left my property so it's not anything outside the law but I had one of my collection with me all the time. Phone didn't work anyway so its not like I could call the fuzz even if I needed to.

I guess acuevo pretty much said it, but full and semi are the same on these common closed-bolt gas-operated weapons, essentially the only difference is a semi trigger group has an additional piece that will catch the hammer after the bolt carrier recocks it. That extra piece forces you to release the trigger so it can fall a short distance and be caught by the sear. EDIT: I see the OP asked about locking lugs in general...most, if not all, centerfire guns that are breech loaded have a locking system, and many rifles use a rotary lockup, whether its operated by your hand (bolt action) or a cam in the operating group (semi). The lockup is necessary because high pressure centerfire rounds cannot be contained by just the recoil spring so the locking lugs in the bolt carrier get held by the lugs in the barrel. When the gas system pushes back on the operating group the first step is to unlock the bolt (with a slight turn) and then things start moving. The bullet pressure when fired only pushes straight back so it can't get the bolt to turn, which is why the action stays safely locked until the pressure drops. Hope that didn't muddy the waters.

I used Duracoat (I hear Cerakote is a little better) and it lasted just fine on my AR barrel. Resists cleaning solvents and reasonable amounts of heat. Strips with Home Depot paint stripper. Precaution are to be good at spray painting, and you can't paint close toleranced parts. And it smells terrible.

Then you hear stories on the radio of the shitstains that try to steal your generator and when they can't they stomp it. Wonderful world we live in.

How much money is being spend nursing that scum back to health after the the self inflicted gunshots? The hospital could nip this one in the bud right now.

The only way the grains would break would be crashing into each other, (nothing else within case is moving, right?)...so if that was a legitimate risk you'd think the same damage would happen in the powder jug while its being transported, maybe even moreso since there's more weight pressing down in a full jug. And if you run a full or compressed charge they can't move in a case at all! That being said, I don't do it but I know plenty of people who tumble complete rounds and have had no issues. Personally I put a pretty light crimp on my stuff that I'd be more concerned a bullet will vibrate a few thousandths further in or out of the casing.

I thought you needed to be driving your car for collision. If you're not even in your car it has to be comprehensive. Either way...makes little difference...

I guess you don't have comprehensive coverage? If so your insurance co will let their own dogs loose when they subrogate. I have comprehensive on one of my cars and not the other, of course it's the non-covered one that gets effed up.

Here's a guide that can give inspiration: http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf the striker block work starts about 3/4 through. That's for a full-size but the fire controls are the same for the Shield. I did mine by putting a small dremel bit in the spring hole of the striker block and chucking it in a drill. Then 1000 grit paper to round the edge and finally compound and a cloth to get the mirror finish.

If you we're remembering my gun, I polished the striker block and trigger bar. That makes it feel a bit lighter and worlds smoother.

I'd hit it

Whitechapel, Between the Buried and Me - both good for general listening. Whitechapel is just heavy while BTBAM is more interesting and progressive. They knocked Opeth out of my heavy rotatation. Lamb of God, Chimaira, As I Lay Dying - good workout music. They're all mid-tempo, heavy stuff. I like the August Burns Red mentioned earlier...they just don't have enough variation in their songs to make my top five (EDIT: same for Parkway Drive). And Dillinger Escape Plan and Strapping Young Lad make honorable mention if I'm looking for something off-beat.