Dan

I looked into this in the past. Seemed like lots of work for very little gain. You might get a few bucks discount on non-firearm stuff from some shops like Midway. What else? Drive out of state to buy CR guns , then drive them back home to NJ? You can do that with your FID + COE today from an out of state dealer with long guns. Perhaps you can purchase out of state HG's with the CR FFL and bring them back, that I'm not sure of. Get past the 1 in 30 HG law? I haven't looked into this so I'm not even sure if it is possible, but if you really need to do this, anyone can simply fill out the 30 day exemption paperwork. Cons: Keeping track of everything in your own FFL bound book. Open to yearly inspections by the ATF and potentially even the NJSP. Yes they are announced and planned, but still a hassle. What is there to gain? If a NJ CR holder comes on here and says they are getting more than a 20% discount in ammo , I might think about it, otherwise to save a few bucks here and there , not worth it.

Will do Maks, thanks

Wayne, that sounds pretty good, your cousin will be here tomorrow I'll ask him about it. The windows in the home were definately replaced, all double pane, and the attic has new insulation, hopefully that will do it. I won't turn down a 0% loan so I can keep my money in savings/investments gaining at least some interest.

IMO, regardless of hysteria and market manipulation, provided you can get a good deal (not buying in on over-inflated Obama hording prices) on bulk ammo, it is always a good idea to stock up on it if you can. Ammo prices have been consistently trending upwards even without considering these periods of Obama fueled hording. I feel that it will always be a decent "investment" as the odds are you will not loose your money, and actually stand a good chance of gaining value and coming out on top in a few years.

I have complete uppers shipped to my friend's house (that has a threaded barrel, flash hider, bayo lug etc). I then pick it up from there, and go directly to my gunsmith along with my muzzle brake of choice for pinning and removal of the bayonet lug. It avoids the whole constructive possession thing. If you plan on doing the work yourself, just leave the lower at home, pick up the upper from a friend, and take directly to your shop to do the work.

Thanks for the heads up on the 16SEER versus 14. First guy told me there was some $500 energy rebate for 16, but if it is $1000 more than the 14, I will pass. Most savings as others said will be on the K-Car (knockin' on it again!! ) oil furnace to a modern 96-98% efficient gas furnace. Tuesday will be estimate marathon, hopefully I will be happy with one of them.

NJFID + long gun... no need to follow 39-6 exemptions... and the whole "reasonably necessary" stop thing. It just has to be unloaded.

Three things I would suggest... all IMO, use the info for what it is... Look for a mid-length when building a carbine AR, lots of pro's , no con's that I can think of. For one they tend to be less harsh on the gas delivery to the BCG, and just makes for a smoother and nicer shooting AR. Consider a contoured barrel (smaller under handguard, heaver at the end) other than the "government profile" that has the grenade launcher cut out. Unless you think that you will mount a grenade launcher in the future. Otherwise, it is debated how having the cut could affect the rifle... but you don't see too many rifles built for accuracy having stuff like that. Consider looking at hammer forged barrels as opposed to button formed rifling barrels. Look for plus type things MP and HP inspected. That spikes says it is an FN built barrel, and from what I know, FN only makes hammer forged barrels, but I could be wrong. Good luck!

Technically it is legal for a FPID card holder to have an unloaded and uncased long gun on a gun rack in a truck. Funny, I just had this conversation with a fellow from PA over at CJ today. He was explaining how the Marlin 45-70 he was shooting was his "truck gun", that got the convo started. As long as you aren't doing anything else with the long gun that would break the law, like pointing it at people, or threatening to use it on someone, etc, I don't think that LE could charge you with anything. That being said, as always... this is NJ, and this behavior will cause issues unless you are out in the wilderness or a hunting area. All about context and discretion when it comes to guns in NJ.

Just wanted to drop a note saying how happy I have been with my spike stands, thanks again for building a quality product at a reasonable price!

Welcome! Maybe the GB vendor has some standard boilerplate policy crap listed in the ad. Lots of other places to buy quality uppers from if you can't find what you want on GB. Check out Midwest PX (forum sponsor), Bravo Company, and Palmetto State Armory for instance.

Since the OP is looking for a less harsh smelling cleaning option I have to mention that Kroil stinks the worst out of all of my cleaning supplies. It works well for gun cleaning, but IMO there are less stinky alternatives that work just as well.

I recommend these two products. Combined they will clean, protect, and lubricate most excellently. The only thing you may want to add down the line is a copper fouling remover like KG-2. But you only have to do that every thousand rounds or so IMO. G96 Gun Treatment spray for cleaning and a good protective wipe down. Use it on your bore patches and brushes for bore cleaning. Spray and let sit on the rest of the guns metal parts, then wipe down. Cleans and leaves a protective film behind. It smells almost like bubble gum to me. Very pleasant. http://www.g96.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=g96&Category_Code=Gun+Treatment Slick2000 EWL - for a general purpose gun oil. It is odorless, doesn't turn sticky, and is a phenomenal lubricant. A little goes a long way. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/816005/slip-2000-ewl-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid.

Just registered

Thought about that, but if I can get a ROI in 10 years on energy savings, its worth putting in a new modern system, and converting to gas from oil at the same time. Technology in terms of efficiency seems to have gone a long way in the past 25 years.

Yea, I thought 12K was steep also. Have 3 more guys coming for estimates.

Even DHS is stockpiling... 450mil rounds of .40HP, 175mil rounds of 5.56... Some think it is to prepare for some kind of civil unrest that they see coming. Others think it is just a smart investment, buy now while its lower in price, and if stored properly can last for decades.

Thanks Jon. Including Wayne's guy, I have 4 estimates incomming, unless I'm not happy with any of them I'm going to limit it at that for now. I'm in the same position. The unit looks like a large turd, with no access to the cooling coils to even clean or inspect. The rest of the system looks to be mid 80's vintage K-Car equivalent of HVAC... so no thanks on that! So I think at this time a full replacement is the way to go, just as you did. First quote in is 12K for full replacement, duct modification, and new zoning. That's including converting from oil to gas, with 95% efficient furnace, and 16 SEER A/C. That's a lot of guns worth of HVAC!

Lots of problems can be solved with zip ties and duct tape.

Thanks for the info dtown.

OK, I used my compressor to blow out the line, both ways. One towards the drain, the other time towards the unit. No resistance was felt, the air just blew through on both cases. The unit is still leaking water, even though I had the system shut off since 10pm last night (it is now 10am). The top circle shows the leak area on the box where the cooling coil is. The water travels along the furnace top, and drips down where I have the arrow. It lands on electrical crap under that which is bad. The fan relay is going bad due to it. I have some rags there now to protect it. The bottom circle is where I dicsonnected the drain line and blew it out. The whole cooling coil box is sealed on all sides. One side has some sheet metal panels screwed on and sealed with caulk, I could problably get to those, but it doesn't provide full access in there. To me this thing looks like it was a shoddy retrofit on top of an old-a** furnace. We bought this house 4 years ago, so I have no history with this unit. All I know is that it looks old, and is an oil burner. My service company already replaced the oil pump once. I'm truley concerned over what may be growing inside the cooling coil unit. I have fears of fungus and other organic gunk growing inside. The air smells funny when I turn it on, like dirty socks, so I know that can't be good. At this point I think I want a new unit, any suggestions on places that are good, suggestions on equipment, etc would be helpful!

This was a very intriguing hypothetical situation. Right away I wanted to say it is illegal because it is disgusting, then my analytical side kicked in and did some research. If the guy taking the pictures was on public property, and he was taking pictures of people (including children) in places (even on private property), provided those places were not places were people would reasonably have an expectation of privacy (like a bathroom, dressing room, inside a home, etc) then it would be legal. LE authority and civil rights, both can be abused. A person hiding behind their civil rights and legal protections in order to cause turmoil or to be a public nuance is just as bad as LE abusing their authority for unjustly or subversive purposes. It happens on both sides, and will always be the "gray area" that is most difficult to address. IMO, it is more an issue of ethics versus government authority and civil rights in this case of the traffic check point. The police were within their authority to do this checkpoint if they had a good reason (seat-belt check mandate, looking for a wanted person, etc), but if they started doing them for fun, or as a form of public punishment by causing traffic jam ups, then ethically they are wrong and unjust.

Makes sense, I'll try blowing it out. Thanks guys

Thanks for responding! I'm getting water leaking out of the cooling coil box that sits on top of the furnace. It appears all sealed up and would require some know how to get into to see what's up. Needless to say the water is ruining the furnace.

Trouble with my central air. Anyone here in central Nj have a hvac company?