alec.mc

Dead end. I think the revo supply ones are made from black delrin. it's sturdy stuff. See if you can get a hold of the Hogue Short.

#revo_alec_training_reasonable_rates_fo_sho

I travel with firearms multiple times a year, a handful of times i've had my bag searched. At multiple different airports across the country. Never once have they let me in the room to open the bag, they come out to where you are waiting outside the room, ask for the key and do it themselves. Again - They dont let you in the room, if you're lucky you can see from a distance through a window on the door.

Probably not the best idea, If they need to access the inside of the case for whatever reason during X-Ray - They dont let you into the room to open it, they simply ask for the key and go through it themselves. I'd rather hand them a key I get back into my possession then giving them the code to open my suitcase at any time down the line once it's out of your sight.

Myself, and about 90% of the other revolver shooters I know all prefer the Hogue SHORT cylinder release, it's shorter than the TK , which i would consider a medium length, and Hogue also makes a LONG. https://www.hogueinc.com/s-w-short-cylinder-release-stainless-steel The hogue doesnt come checkered from the factory like the TK does, though it's easily fixed with a checkering file and about 5 minutes of your time if that's important to you. ( i checker all mine ) The ones at revolver supply are actually made by Dave Parker, a revolver shooter in Mass. , I've personally never used one but I know some people who do like them, I do believe he makes an IDPA friendly one, as the hogue extended cylinder release is not.

I hear you. Also, as a complete side note - people who say they don't like shooting dots because it's too difficult to find the reticle, see it, or whatever - are probably shooting cheap low quality dots. If you do one day decide to go with a dot, spend the money and you'll be happy you did. AM

Thanks boo

If that's the route you go and upgrade to a microdot like the deltapoint, cmore rts, etc etc. Go with the allchin mount, its the lowest one on the market. Get rid of that factory smith one , the sight is like 4 inches off the top of the gun. cray cray

L always recommend a double alpha race master with N frame block, it will go and fit any size barrel you throw at it and you don't have to worry. Though, this isn't legal for IDPA, if IDPA is your main focus go with a blade tech. With the hammer in place, and side plate on , mark the outline on the frame with a sharpie and you'll have a line to work to when dremeling out the bulk.

IMO, the Miculek MAIN SPRING is superior to both the wilson and wolff springs My go to is the Miculek Main spring, with a Wolff 11 lb rebound spring ( sometimes I'll throw a 12 lb in ) Though, since you have a few kits coming you can utlize those rebound springs, some say to cut a few coils off to reduce the weight, I prefer to reduce the O.D of the spring on a belt sander to lighten the weight. Be careful with what parts you touch when stoning, you can screw up a gun real quick, i've probably done a few dozen trigger jobs at this point so feel free to touch base if you have questions.

Word. Proper trigger job, federal primers, Bowen rear sights, fiber front, hogue big butts, tk/hogue cylinder release, chamfered Chambers. Lots of practice. www.4wheelguns.com for belt rig

I mean... He's O-K.

Good call keeping them wheel gun people separate from ' good folks ' nice meeting you see you on the next one. -a

For what ? Leaving my house with a concealed weapon and committing a felony and going to prison? No, I dont.

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I can help, 8 inch powermatic jointer, 13 inch planer, table saw, etc etc Woodbridge nj PM me

they work.... though a "blow out " patch is pretty easy and has great strong results. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=drywall+blowout+patch

The 617 uses a standard round nose firing pin,and most semi 22s will use a square nose, so that's why they look different. First thing first, take the grips off and make sure that the strain screw hasn't loosened up, it's very common that they do. You should blue lock Tite it. ( Screw controls main spring pressure ) 2nd, if tightening the main spring screw doesn't work, you'll need to check your end shake. This can be done with a simple pair of feeler gauges you can get at any automotive store, or Amazon. Ideally, the less end skake the better - but up to about .002 end shake is fine in these guns. A quick Google search will explain how to do it- but in a nut shell - gap between face of cylinder and forcing cone with cylinder pulled back toward rear minus the gap between forcing cone and face of cylinder with cylinder pushing forward equals end shake. You are essentially measuring the slop in the cylinder movement forward and back. If so much slop you'll be robbing energy from the force of the main spring that would otherwise be used to ignite primers by having to move the cylinder forward a hair first Good luck. Alec

Derp.

Should of shot a revolver.

Yup, griz is correct. If this were a duty / carry / defense gun you'd absolutely want to keep the ejector rod in it's shroud. Most factory revolvers lock up the cylinder / yoke at the end of the ejector rod. So, I'lf you do bend it the trigger will bind up really bad while your trying to rotate a bent rod on a fixed pin. With my competition setups I eliminate the lockup at the ejector rod and solely rely on ball detents that are engaged on the yoke face and frame. So If I do happen to bend a rod during a reload or heavy use, it really doesn't effect to much.

In their current form with the way I have the springs setup, yes - they will only fire federal branded ammo / primers. Can always increase the spring weight If I ever had the need to fire other factory ammo. and I havent had a dillon boom boom in a few years. Dillon 1050 way gooder in that department

some of my 627s! Best revolver on the market!

Pro tip, when comparing gun to gun - I wouldn't nessasary base your determination on which trigger is better over one another, or which grip is nicer, or sights, etc. These are all things that can vary from same model gun to gun. And all of these things can be upgraded. Concentrate on feel, caliber, weight, etc. I have a ton of revolvers, but they are all competition tuned, so it would be an unfair comparison over a new factory gun. Even a 686 that is 20-30 years old with likely feel tons better in the trigger over a new model. Just food for thought.