302w

Crimp! I use a FCD for this reason. You can crush brass while crimping with normal seating dies, especially if they vary in OAL.

"so you woke up stupid this morning?"

Chrysler is rather terrible, I will admit that. To those of you who answered my questions, thank you. I am not too concerned with MPG and such. I will get a feel for it with my 18 MPG F150, and if it is killer I will look into a nice Focus. Whatever I buy I will only keep for a year or two anyway and then I plan on buying a new 5.0. It will be a cold, cold day in hell before I buy a foreign car. I am proud to buy American-made products whenever possible.

I would rather vote for Hillary. I know that's rude, but foreign cars are a sore spot for me. I could go on and on, but I will leave it at that. If I don't get a Jeep, I'm likely to get a boring manual Focus. I already have a "fun" car and my truck. I am concerned about driving an old vehicle. I do that now, and silly things break on me from time to time at 150k and 22 years. I wouldn't mind a low mile YJ, there is currently one for 7k that has 65k on the odometer.

I think I have decided to not look into TJs. I like them, but the frame rot issues scare me. Even if I pick the cleanest one I will still be pretty concerned about it. How is the YJ five speed? I'm looking strictly for a clean, low mile 1995. The only automatic was a torqueflite, and I need overdrive. I assume 5th is OD.

I'm starting a new job, which is my first "career" type job and I need a commuting vehicle. My requirements are: Ford or Chrysler, something made within the past 15 years or so, 4-7k price, manual preferred, and preferably >100k miles. The office is 60 miles, or one hour from my door. I will be doing field work primarily and I could be anywhere. My current vehicles are a 1993 F150, and a '65 Mustang. The Mustang sits and the F150 is a solid, well loved truck, but I want to drive something else in the winter. I am keeping the truck regardless. At a 4k-7k spending limit, I am limited to YJs and TJs. I would prefer to get a TJ because as reliable as my F150 is, I know silly things start to break after 20 years. Monday I was replacing a U joint on the side of route 80. I've been looking into Wranglers lately, but I have a few questions: 1. Can I realistically expect to buy a reliable Jeep for the price range? I see old, four cylinder, 200k mile jeeps being advertised for $5000. 2. Should I look into a YJ or a TJ? I would like a 1995 for the galvanization, but newer is usually better. 3. Are TJ frame rot issues serious? They seem to be. Are they all prone to rotting out? 4. 4 cylinder or six? I like the AMC I6, and I6s in general. MPG isn't a huge concern, but more=better. My F150 gets 18mpg, and if I get wrecked on gas I will look into a stick Focus. Thanks! I hate the Jeep stereotype, but I'm a hypocrite.

I had a thread on this. Large heated debate ensued. It should not be far back

This. Also, a pound of power goes significantly farther in a handgun. Assuming $30/1k primers, and $30/lb powder, that is 3 cents and 2 cents respectively. If bullets are arbitrarily 10 cents each that is $7.50 a box. I try not to buy bullets so that is only $2.50 a box.

$10.57 at 18301

FWIW... 1000 55gr FMJ pills are $100...............................................$0.10.....$0.10 1lb Powder $30-40 (7000 grains/pound, 25 grains/round)...$0.11.....$0.14 1k Primers $30-40................................................................$0.03.....$0.04 Total: $0.24-$0.28. Buying 8lb jugs of powder is cheaper (as they are anywhere from $160-$200). Reloading isn't about saving money. You can't beat the prices with the cheap commie stuff for blasting. It is more of a 'fun' thing to do, and your savings are made when you load expensive calibers and/or match ammunition. I could probably load .30-06 or .458 Winmag for not much more than .223 when those rounds run $15 and $90 for a 20 round box respectively. I also load .45 and 9mm for $2.50 a box, but that is another story.

I actually have a Unertl type scope. It was probably mounted on the rifle at some point. I know nothing about it other than it is a 2' long scope. I should dig it out. I would like to use a modern adjustable scope. The Mauser is heavily sporterized and I think can be a good "modern" shooter.

Obligatory Because you suck, and we hate you.

I like Colt. That being said, innovate or die. They have the manufacturing capacity to supply the Military, but the client base of Wilson Combat. You can make money by manufacturing quality AR15s and 1911s, but not with the overhead that Colt has. I think the last three "innovations" that Colt had were: 2012? Mustang XSP. Polymer frame of a gun that has been manufactured for awhile now. Sig copied the original and outsells Colt. 1992? All American 2000. Utter failure. 1965? Colt buys the manufacturing rights to the AR15 from Armalite. Colt should have had a backup plan in the event they lose a contract. The only way they could possibly survive now is if fate hands them a design that will outperform Glock/M&P/XD. Which is unlikely. Who will buy them? Freedom group?

The one I know of in the Poconos is no different from Jersey. Park your car and the attendant approaches you.

Fun story about checking oil at gas stations. I worked in a garage that was attached to a gas station awhile back. A girl I used to date shows up to get gas and bugs the gas guy to check her oil, and he doesn't speak English. He drags me over, and I'm stuck talking to her. She had just left a job interview and was looking fantastic. After she left everyone was picking on me for not getting her number. My only response was been there, done that. She crazy.

I inherited this nicely sporterized Mauser that is chambered in .308. I believe it was originally (when sporterized) set up for irons, but I would like to mount a scope using the holes from the existing mount on the back of the barrel and the other by the reciever as shown. Where the flathead screws are now. I imagine I will need to mount a section of rail between the two points. Suggestions? The two mounts on there are about 8" apart. Edit: Before anyone thinks I am crazy, I plan on removing the existing bases.

I know a couple of gas stations who pay their guys below minimum wage. Twelve hour shifts too. Also, in PA I know of at least one station that has both self serve and full serve. I think it is fifty cents more per gallon for full serve.

I always liked the fallout shelter signs. You also need a crusty junk deactivated flintlock. Were you really on the cover of the daily news?

$6.94... a box? Of 50 9mm FMJs? With primers, powder, brass, and bullets? Holy crap. I'm reloading 9mm for cheap, but $6.94 is insane. I may go buy a bunch of the stuff. The cheapest I have seen is Freedom at $10/box reman+shipping.

My dad owns a collet bushing Series '701911. It has issues with an aftermarket barrel, but the OE barrel is good to go. I would like to replace the bushing with a solid one because it isn't replaceable and has been shot a lot I would be all over a USGI 1911 for the right price. Under $1000 or so.

Not if you're a better shot than them.

I like this.

I own the LE Wilson setup. I found it to be slow and cumbersome. I never really used it because I inherited it. I now use the Lee setup. It is so cheap I should buy spares. I usually measure all my brass and seperate as too long and OK. I use the cheapo HF digital caliper. Then I chock the cutter in a hand drill and buzz through the brass.

Oh boy. I'm sure the mainstream media will cover this in a neutral light. As in, they totally won't ignore the Islam-connection and focus entirely on ASSAULT WEAPON FULL AUTO 30 ROUND CLIP AK47S! If you see it at all.

My dad is building an AR, and I have no idea on what buffer he should be using. Right now he has an 18" midlength .223 Wylde barrel, and a M16A1 buffer from Sarco. Is this "right"? Is there anything that would be more reliable, and if so, why? I believe that gas system length and buffer weight need to correlate somehow, but I don't know for sure.