nj22

That's interesting. I guess I had assumed reading reviews that guns in rests were giving like 4 inch groups. But maybe shooters, not the guns, were getting those groups.

That doesn't sound right to me. I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that even ammo selection can change the pattern from a rest at 25 yards.

I'm sure this is a dumb question. I'm trying to buy my first 9mm. Of course, the first step is testing everything I can get my hands on. And I know that "the gun that fits best" will be the most accurate for me. But this seems a bit...suspect. If a particular gun cannot mechanically get a tight group at 25 yards than no matter how good I get at shooting it, or how well it "fits," I'll never be able to get a tight group at 25 yards. If I were looking for a carry or home defense gun 25 yard accuracy would be low on the list of needs (after lightweight or reliability or whatever). But this is going to be a target gun. So the question: hasn't someone out there put a bunch of 9's through ransom rest tests? Like 25 of each model, CZ vs Beretta vs HK vs S&W, with a bunch of different ammo? Obviously each individual firearm is going to vary within a given model. But you'd think some gun shop could have done this with a large number of each, no? It would be nice limit my choices down to target accurate models before selecting which fits my hand best.

You guys are awesome. PA is probably a little far for the moment, and I might make a trip to Shore Shot next week or the week following. Otherwise, PMs sent! Thanks again for the offers.

Just called Shore Shot--no CZs, no EAA Witness. Might not even have a Sig available. Could try the XD I guess, along with the baby desert eagle (another CZ clone). But that doesn't really help me narrow.

Thanks for the advice. I really wanted to shoot an actual 75b, but the witness might at least give me an idea.

The shops around me haven't allowed me to handle anything without the FID card. Kind of annoying.

I recently moved to Jersey City from PA (by way of many other cities). I am currently in the process of getting my FID (PD says I'm about 2 weeks out), but do not yet have it in hand. I had a CCW in PA, so I'm not a prohibited person, and I'm familiar with safe handling of firearms (I shoot a .22). I'm in the market for my first 9mm, and am having a hard time narrowing down my choices. I'm looking for a fullsize, metal framed 9mm that is target accurate. Thinking CZ-75b or used Sig p226. Also interested in CZ SP-01, if I can find one, and would love to shoot some poly full size as well to compare (maybe I'll change my mind!). Or really anything else you would recommend meeting the accurate/reliable criteria (around $600 to spend). Shore Shot has the p226 to rent, but not the CZs. In fact, I can't find the CZs anywhere in N. Jersey. I know there are a lot of generous shooters on here--some have already offered to let me put a few rounds through their favorite 9mm. Is there any chance anyone is local and interested in helping a fellow shooter out? If shooting at Bayonne or the Bullet Hole I would, of course, pay both of our range fees. I cannot legally buy 9mm ammo yet, but I can give you cash for that.

The SA doesn't count as a production gun? I'm now leaning away from the SA because I hear it has a plastic trigger. RE the 85 combat, word on the street is the rear adjustable site is not very durable. But if you want the overtravel adj I don't think you can get it on the regular 85b

I am leaning toward the SA. Has the trigger adjustment if I need it and that extended beaver tail is a nice touch. But I'll probably order through the custom shop and get a trigger job right away. It will be cheaper up front than if I do it later, and I'm sure they're the best in the business.

I understand that--and not to beat a dead horse (which I will proceed to do anyway), my concern wasn't with being deceptive, it was that my references said two different things: one says I'm a writer, the other says I'm a student. Perhaps I should just leave it alone, however.

I hope that's all that matters. I know the dept sends letters to employers, and I didn't give a school address--they don't employ me. I just want to be sure they don't have any reason whatsoever to look twice at the application. Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll just leave it alone. They asked me to call when I get fingerprinted so they can move forward. Perhaps I'll just mention the conflicting letters after I get prints done next week.

I'm not so much worried I did anything wrong--both answers are true. But that the inconsistency will be a problem. Think I will cause more problems if I stop by and chat with the guy in charge of permits?

Thought I crossed all the T's and dotted the I's, but I've hit a possible problem. This is my first FID application. I am currently both a student and a writer. I'm getting my advanced degree and am enrolled full time. However, I'm also a regular contributor to a magazine and infrequent contributor elsewhere. So for my "Employer" I put "Self," since the place where I go to school does not consider me an employee. For "Occupation" I put "writer." There's not a lot of room for "I go to school while I write articles and do various other work." Then my reference letters went out. Two wonderful, friendly people. But they've both sent the form back with different answers to "occupation." One said writer, the other student. So I called the local office and told them to add "student" to my file. I didn't tell them why, just said "by the way, I'm also going to school, if that makes any difference." The guy said he would make a note of it. So what do I do? They're friendly enough down at the office. I was thinking that before the letters arrive I should head over there and let them know there was some confusion over my primary occupation. Any ideas?

Sadly Reloader, I don't have the money. My budget is <800 inclusive of FFL transfer. That is a mighty handsome gun, however. On a non-decocker variant the custom shop can do a hammer replacement for like 165. They claim that smooths the trigger pull. I assume that's the only trigger job necessary? Not sure if the 75 or 85 needs to have a main spring replacement, since only the sp-01 has the heavier spring for NATO rounds, correct? Since I shoot lefty I'm thinking the 85b for the ambi slide release, and the combat version since it has the overtravel control. Then again, since the safety and mag release are ambi an all of them (correct?) I could save the money and just get the SA 75b with the overtravel control. Or the sp-01. That's still in the running. Too many choices...

I'm looking more full size--though those are pretty sweet. Where are you finding these prices? I ask because everyone online seems to think the cz 75b "can be had for a little over $350." But all the shops in NJ either don't have them, or claim they are "expensive because they are hard to get." I can find one out of state, of course, but then tack on shipping and the $75 transfer fee... Thinking of going through the CZ custom shop and getting a trigger job off the bat.

At least I think that's what I'm trying to decide. Still about 3 weeks out on the FID. But why not start shopping? Can't find anywhere in N. Jersey to get my hands on an SP-01. Love the 75b, but am caught up on the claim that the SP-01 is better machined. Any thoughts? It's also heavier, and I'm worried the heavier spring on the SP will be annoying (the slide apparently snaps back if you don't replace it). Then again, I'm open to any and all suggestions. Still thinking sig p226. It's just a little pricey and right hand only. And kind of ugly...

Nice of you to offer. I was actually planning to rent one down there. The only problem is finding the CZ to compare it. The p226s seem to be popular enough around here, but the CZs are few and far between.

I haven't had a chance to fire the p226 yet. I also really like the cz-75 in hand, but it seems no one in NJ has one for rent. I really wanted to fire the cz next to the p226. Anyone know if the CZ DA/SA is similar to the sig?

Just to be clear (esp Maksim), the p226 is not DAO, it is DA/SA, right? DA/SA means that the trigger pull is like 10lbs first, then 4lbs thereafter. I assume DAO means its always a heavy trigger, like a wheelgun? I'm afraid having different trigger pulls will throw off my accuracy. But it sounds like I can just use the sig without decocking and every round will be SA and thus the same trigger.

Hi all, I'm in the market for my first 9mm (or first larger caliber firearm). This would not be for CC (obviously). Not for home defense either, just target practice. So it seems a DA trigger is unnecessary and potentially a burden for accuracy. However, I've really liked the p226 in hand, and I hear good things about accuracy and reliability. I'm not so clear about how the DA/decocker thing works. If I don't decock the gun, is it always SA? In other words, is the first show single action if the gun isn't decocked, or does the first shot always have a heavier trigger? Thanks!

I'll look into both, thanks!

Thanks Bob and Maksim, really great advice. I am in Central Jersey for the next week, then moving to Jersey City and applying for my FID. Seems like 9mm is the overwhelming choice. I really do like the CZ. Just want to be sure I don't end up "needing" a .45 to compete in the year and get stuck with more guns and less money that I need.

Ok, but if I don't plan to do "practical shooting" or anything with stages and moving parts, just plain old target shooting, is there any benefit to a .45?

Interesting. Right now the range where I shoot as a guest (again, waiting for FID) has a competition where you choose 3. One must be a .22, one a .45, the other your choice. You can participate with only a .22 and a .45, but not a .22 and a 9mm. I'll check around other ranges and see if they have 9mm comps.