High Exposure

Point of order: Cops have to qualify with their off duty guns and holsters (read: concealed carry) as well as their duty guns. The time and accuracy standards do not change. Therefore - Cops are successfully completing HQC1 and HQC2 from concealment 2x a year.

Thanks. That’s the second time this week. Had well over 100 email notification from those same kinds of posts earlier in the week, and almost that many today.

Lol! Ammo Fort!!!

Just got home. A good time was had by all! Great to see everyone and bullshit and shoot stuff. Thanks @Scorpio64 for setting this up!

Torch Run for Special Olympics. https://www.njtorchrun.org

Alright, Pedantic Pet Peeve here - there is no such thing as “muscle memory” - there are no brains in your muscles. Your muscles don’t remember shit. You teach yourself a procedure and you practice it until you can remember how to do it without thinking about each individual step - it is procedural memory. Look at your firearms training/practice through the lens of navigating the four levels of achievement: 1) Unconscious incompetence 2) Conscious incompetence 3) Conscious competence 4) Unconscious competence With the goal of reaching and maintaining the fourth level for the most crucial tasks If you can keep 20% of your skill at level 4 with the remainder at level 3 you are better than 90% of the rest of the shooters out there. Everything you can do in a gunfight without thinking directly about it frees up time and ability to make decisions. That’s where gunfights are won. We die in the gaps. We lose in the moments between action where we are making decisions. Build your skill set so there are fewer gaps. Shooting, especially combat shooting, is simple there are only three steps (ID threat, line up sights, press trigger to rear without disturbing sights) but it is not easy because it happens in the early world. A gunfight is also 99% mental. The physical component is minimal. The right mindset (which begins with training) amplifies a solid skillset, reduces gaps, and lets you prevail.

This sounds like you took a couple shooting classes and took away all the wrong information. One of the most important components of training for any gunfights - regardless of the distance - is to have an accuracy component at distance (typically 25 yards is the standard) in your training. Hitting at 3 yards does not translate to getting hits at 10, 15, 25, or beyond. Getting hits at 25 or 50 directly correlates to better performance up close. 1000000% This is right. Do not aspire to mediocrity. Be an asset with your firearm. Be more capable than you need to be. Carry the gun you shoot the best (in a duty caliber), be confident in your ability, and know your limitations.

It’s the alligator king!

"It was a different world then. It was a world that required young men like myself to be prepared to die for a civilization that was worth living in." --Harry Read, British D-Day veteran

Talk your friend into shooting clays!

I have a 1x that I like.

I carry AIWB as well. There are a few solutions here: 1) Get a Tenicor holster (this is what I use daily) They build a wedge shape into the holster that, when combined with their DCC Clips, help alleviate what you are describing. 2) Buy a holster wedge pad: https://www.phlsterholsters.com/what-is-a-wedge-do-i-need-a-wedge/ Quite a few companies make them (Tier One Concealed, Phlster, and a bunch of others) 3) Buy a yoga block and use a razor blade to make your own wedge, then glue/Velcro it to your holster. You can experiment and see what you like. Change sizes, shapes and thickness until you find what you like.

Yup. I have seen snow, sand, mud, and gravel lock them up. I also saw a guy get his seatbelt caught on his gun getting out of the car. As he stepped out there was a loud click as the retention mechanism rocked out of place and that was it. That jammed the holster up worse than anything else I had seen. The plastic the holster is made from is pretty soft and the screws holding it all together are pretty insignificant. I have seen SERPA holsters ripped right off belts in retention drills.

Sorry man. This is a garbage argument. Yes - I agree that you should be well-practiced and confident in your equipment. However, you shouldn’t have to worry about two different trigger finger movements under stress: • Finger straight and press straight in to get it out • Bend your finger and press straight back to fire That’s bananas! My non-SERPA holsters (Safariland ALS and ALS/SLS) all: • Retain the gun more securely than a SERPA • Allow a faster draw than a SERPA • Conceal as good or better than a SERPA • Provide better weapon retention than a SERPA • Require ZERO input from my trigger finger to remove the weapon from the holster Seriously, spend the $$ and get better rig. The other Blackhawk! offerings are decent if you really just hate Safariland.

I have a bunch of first hand and personal eyewitness experience - we were issued them when they first came out. Serpa holsters blow. Not just for the increased possibility of shooting your self but the inferior materials, and bad design, and how easy it is to lock up the retention mechanism so bad it requires a pair of tin snips to cut the holster off the gun. If you use a Serpa in this day and age of multitudes of affordable quality retention holsters, you are a dope.

How dare you use critical thinking skills and logic! You should be drawing conclusions from incomplete information and making sweeping declarative statements about an incident you were not involved in and didn’t witness! Is this your first day on the internet? Don't you know how this works?

Now who is going to run Bartertown?

Yup. This is an important distinction. The NJ Govt may not be doing what you think is right for your interests, but like it or not - the Gov we have here is the Gov that was elected by the majority of NJ residents. They are doing the work that the “majority”of NJ residents want done. You just happen to be in the minority in this state.

Does anyone have the scoop on the best current guidance to remain compliant? I think we were all hoping for a blanket injunction, but it’s getting pretty close now.

Point of order: HQC1: 60 rounds HQC2: 50 rounds HNQC: 40 rounds Everything else you said is pretty much spot on.

Got it. Thanks. I always forget that Ben carries them as well now. I’m on the email list for LTT as well.

Where did you find one in stock? I checked Langdon yesterday and only the full-size model was in stock, not the 43/48 size. It works both ways, but just like a DA/SA gun, I would NOT keep pushing if I feel the hammer move - even a tiny bit. I would stop, fully remove the firearm from the holster, evaluate, remediate the noted issue, and start over. I would not rely on my thumb pressure to prevent the striker from falling.

It’s new. I get it. It will take time and no one can hurry up your “comfortableness”. And that’s OK. I can tell you honestly that I have carried a Glock all day, every day for the last 20 years - AIWB for the last 5 of them. I know dozens of others that have done the same and no one has ever had an issue. On the flip side - people do shoot themselves - but outside the current crop of SigP320 issues (and the jury is still out on if they are NDs or ADs or a combo) they are almost all proven to be NDs due to user error (they are doing something to pull the trigger) and not an AD due to a mechanical defect. One thing to remember that may make you feel more comfortable - Glocks are not fully pre-cocked like a lot of other striker fired pistols on the market. When you pull the trigger you are actually finishing the “cocking” sequence AND disengaging the three safety features before the sear lets go. That’s why the Glocks are still considered a double action trigger (they call it “Safe Action”, but your really doing 2 things, cocking and firing - hence double action). A lot of the newest generation of striker guns are pre-cocked at over 95%, compared to the Glocks ~65%. This is also why guns like the HK VP9, CZ P10C, Walther PDP, etc… have the reputation for such “nicer” triggers compared to Glocks. This is also why you need inspect your striker/sear engagement when installing an new trigger/trigger bar and make sure any aftermarket triggers you use don’t mess with the trigger bar and keep the integral safeties and striker interface intact. If you’re still having safety concerns or trust issues - this is a great device for when you are holstering: https://langdontactical.com/glock-striker-control-device-scd/ It acts like a hammer on a traditional DA/SA pistol - you put your thumb on the slide plate when you holster. If anything makes the trigger move, you will instantly feel it and know to stop. Some people use it all the time. I got mine for when I take classes where the instructor requires it if you are going to work the class from an AIWB with a Glock.

This doesn’t make sense. A grip safety would not help you at all with reholstering unless you aren’t holding the gun securely or you are dropping the gun into the holster. Both of which are not preferred. You need keep a solid grip on the gun and push down - especially with concealment holsters that rely on friction to hold the firearm in place - thus disengaging the grip safety when you holster. You need to holster reluctantly - you should not be in a rush to return the gun to the holster. Look the gun into the holster and be careful not to sweep body parts. If you feel any resistance, stop. Dress appropriately to diminish the chances of clothing binding in your holster. From Glock Website: https://us.glock.com/en/learn/glock-pistols/safe-action-system The SAFE ACTION® System is a fully automatic safety system consisting of three passive, independently operating, mechanical safeties. All three safeties disengage sequentially as the trigger is pulled and automatically re-engage when the trigger is released.There are three: Trigger Safety The trigger safety is the first safety in the firing sequence. It’s incorporated into the trigger in the form of a lever and when it is engaged blocks the trigger from moving rearward. To fire the pistol, the trigger safety and the trigger itself must be deliberately depressed at the same time. If the trigger safety is not depressed, the trigger will not move rearwards and allow the pistol to fire. The trigger safety is designed to prevent the pistol from firing if it’s dropped or if the trigger is subjected to any pressure that isn’t a direct firing pull. Firing Pin Safety The second safety, the firing pin safety, mechanically blocks the firing pin from moving forward in the ready-to-fire condition. As the trigger is pulled rearward, the trigger bar pushes the firing pin safety up and frees the firing pin channel. If you decide not to fire and release the trigger, the firing pin safety automatically reengages. Drop Safety The final safety involves the trigger bar, which rests on the safety ramp within the trigger mechanism housing. The trigger bar engages the rear portion of the firing pin and prevents the firing pin from moving forward. As the trigger is pulled rearward the trigger bar lowers down the safety ramp and allows the release of the firing pin. After firing, the trigger bar moves upward and re-engages the firing pin. As the trigger is released, all safeties automatically reengage.