High Exposure

I have been punching for a switch at my agency from .40 to 9mm for 5 years. Maybe now I'll get some traction. The Glock doesn't have a fully pre-cocked striker. The M&P and others have the striker at over 90% pre-cocked if I remember correctly. The Glock is only around 50% or so.

Yup, all good. But, don't be shocked and appalled if you have issues with your budget build. The budget parts are budget parts for a reason. I also agree that the person who puts 100 rounds a year through an AR doesn't need a $1000 gun. But... They may end up spending more than $1000 over the years keeping that $500 gun running and eliminating issues that keep popping up. Where the $1000 gun would have continued working. I found this out when I bought my first AR - a Bushmaster XM-15 in 2003 that I got brand new for $600. I still have that rifle, kind of. The only part left that is original Bushmaster is the lower receiver. Every other part has been swapped out with quality reliable parts that cost more. Overall, I spent well over the original $600 I paid and, more importantly, well over the cost of the Colt that was $800 that I turned down as "too expensive". If I would have spent that extra $200 to begin with I would have not had to spend another $600 getting the cheaper rifle to run reliably. There is a huge difference between lowest price and best value. But once, cry once and get it over with. Oh. And OP, I am not staying that is what is happening here. I have no idea what parts you used to build your rifle. It is just an observation I have made over the years after troubleshooting many peoples guns - and noting the guns that don't need to be troubleshooted repeatedly because they work.

It's a fuel system test kit for an F-15. Say so right in the first photo.

Agreed, it is unnecessary - unless there is an issue. Then I think it's the easiest way to solve the problem. Agreed here as well. But when price of the components used is the driving force behind choosing the parts, instead of the quality of the manufacturing and QA of the parts used, you will have a hard time guaranteeing your parts will be properly spec'ed. That means you will have a hard time zeroing in on any issues you are having. When people stop bragging: "I built this AR for $400 and it is just as good as anything out there. I have 500 trouble free rounds through it before I had any issues." and instead say: "I built this AR for $1000 using the best parts available. It has been my primary training gun for three years and has 10000 trouble free rounds through it." We will be making progress. [/soapbox] The funny part is the $1000 gun that lasts 3 years and 10000 rounds is a way better value than the $400 gun.

Anything adjustable can un-adjust. I prefer to avoid adjustable anything unless it is a last resort. JP makes a clamp on adjustable gas block to prevent removal of the muzzle device. Just dremel the old block off. Like I said, if you aren't going to change to the proper receive extension type, I would get an H3 buffer and overpowered spring. Messing with a gas block can cause more problems than it solves. YMMV and all that. Your rifle. Your choice. Good luck.

All of my 14.5" guns are midlength gas system with carbine receiver extensions, standard carbine action springs, and H buffers. No issues.

Generally speaking, it's best to use a rifle length receiver extension with a rifle length gas system. You are going to have to fiddle around with buffer and action springs. My first bit of advice is to install a rifle length receiver extension, buffer and action spring. If not, I would say to try an H2 buffer with an overpowered action spring.

What receiver extension are you using with your rifle length gas system?

The FBI has the best firearms, ammunition, and body armor testing and evaluation division in the country - and probably the world.

This is correct - but I don't know anyone that actually says that. I stole that particular pic off the interwebs. Interestingly, I was teaching a range day on Tuesday to my SWAT guys. We were shooting while eating pro-masks (everything is harder and different with a pro-mask on) and doing a block on clearing rifle malfunctions. We were purposefully setting up Type 1 (fail to fire) and Type 3 (fail to extract/double feed) malfunctions and clearing then. One of the guys ended up turning his double feed malfunction into a Type 8 with a live round when he slapped the bottom of his old USGI mag (instead of a push/pull during the reduction process) and caused a round to bounce out of the mag compounding the original malfunction. It was a good learning opportunity for everyone about why we push/pull instead of slapping the bottom of a mag (SPORTS sucks) and how to clear a Type 8 - some guys had never seen one.

Correct http://www.recoilweb.com/glock-awarded-fbi-contract-102629.html

SSD reporting Glock was chosen by FBI for new service pistol: http://soldiersystems.net/2016/06/29/fbi-selects-glock-pistol/

If you buying an Alpha tube to put on a 14.5" barrel pinned to 16" go with the 13" tube. Make the long barrel work for you by giving you more room to grab the gun further out. The closer to the muzzle you can get your hand, the better you can drive the gun.

Yes. I have used Troy Alpha rails on 3 rifles where I shaved the FSB down.

^^^This

If you shoot enough, you will.

You may not think it, but I'm actually trying to be helpful. Out of curiosity, were you shooting steel cased Ammo when you had the malfunction you described? Your original description of the malfunction: Described a double feed or a failure to extract as seen here (2 live rounds): And here (1 live and 1 spent round): Neither would require that tool. Both are reduced using remedial action. If the charging handle is locked up, mortar the gun. Your additional descriptor reveals it to possibly be a failure to extract with a round stuck in the chamber: Something like this: Which can be cleared a couple different ways without that tool. That tool couldn't reduce a bolt over base type: because you can't get to the BCG through the mag well with the round in the way. If you got the round out, the malfunction would be clear. Where it could be helpful tool is a "Type Ate" malfunction as seen here: Where you need to move the BCG to the rear while pushing the charging handle forward. But, as stated, a fixed blade knife, the bottom corner of a metal GI Mag, or the pliers on a cool guy tool will work in the field - or as you found out, a screwdriver will do the job just fine back at the shop. Either way, you may want it, but you don't need this tool. Like I said, I am a gadget guy - I love things that are designed to do a job - but I wouldn't buy this. It's too specialized of a tool to fix too rare of a problem. You'd be better served spending the money on dummy rounds and practicing your malfunction clearing drills. In the end, you spend your money on what you want and you carry as much crap as you want to the range and on your kit. If you do pick one up, I would be curious to hear how it works and how often you use it.

2 live rounds is a mag problem, 1 live and 1 spent is usually an extractor issue but could be out of spec ammo or chamber. In either case, the proper way to reduce that is remedial action: 1) lock bolt to rear 2) rip magazine from mag well 3) flat hand into the mag well with your thumb towards your body and feel for rounds in the chamber 4) when it feels clear remove hand and release bolt with the bolt release 5) fully run charging handle a few times if necessary, making sure to fully slingshot the bolt each time 6) reload This tool would not have helped you.

Ehhhhhhh..... Read this: http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/81268-legion-fail/page-1

Don't really have a schedule. Every few thousand rounds I will wipe down my guns and look for broken/worn parts. Usually I just give it a quick once over with and old toothbrush and T shirt, run a bore snake through the barrel, lube it up, and put it back together. Takes about 10 minutes total. I'll do a preventative maintenance check prior to a class and a quick cleaning after, depending on round count. If I have been shooting in the rain, I make sure to dry everything pretty well and lube generously. Once a year my guns get detail cleaned and springs/parts changed as needed based on the previous years's range schedule. Work guns are carried often and shot little. They get a visual inspection and lubed once a month. Here are a few more threads here on the topic: http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/52632-gun-cleaning/?fromsearch=1 http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/30184-how-often-do-you-clean-your-guns-and-do-you-enjoy-doing-it/?fromsearch=1 http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/15386-how-often-to-cleanlube/?fromsearch=1 http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/9440-how-often-do-you-clean-your-handgun/?fromsearch=1

Jeepster, I see a lot of these in my news feeds, but not all of them. Thanks for posting them and for keeping this thread going. It is a good resource!

Quoted for truth.

The malfunction this tool is designed to clear can not be reduced by mortaring. If it could, you would mortar the rifle to clear it. To clear this, you need to move the bolt back independently of the charging handle to knock the brass out of the way. 500 "energetic" rounds without reapplying lube should not lock your gun up or contribute to this malfunction. I would look at getting your chamber reamed to true 5.56 specs, or maybe a new barrel, and choosing a new lube, to prevent that from happening in the future rather than a special tool. The knife or cool guy tool on your kit is cheap insurance - and is versatile. A tool with only one purpose, and one that you should rarely have to use, is a waste of space and weight. Hell, I've seen a guy reduce this by dragging the bolt back using just his middle finger up the mag well. Coincidentally, he was also a big hit with the ladies.....

I have seen a few malfunctions like that. We refer to them as a "Type Ate" malfunction, as in "You got ate the fuck up". I am a huge "gadget guy" but I just don't see the need for a tool this specialized. You can reduce that malfunction type with a fixed blade knife* or the needle nose pliers on a cool guy tool by going through the ejection port. The Multitasker Multi Tool even has a tool on it specifically for this. I have a Strider MFS mounted on my holster. It isn't for stabbing people, it's for fixing this malfunction, breaching some doors and windows, and a few other non-stabby things. * NOTE: I said FIXED BLADE KNIFE don't do this with a folder - even a sturdy locking type. You risk lacerating or even amputating fingers, making your relatively simple problem of a broke gun much much worse.

You will never be able to carry enough stuff for what you are describing. If your backpack is full of all of this medical gear, where are you carrying your food, water, shelter, and bullets? Your best bet is to carry stuff for common injuries and illness and have a plan to scavenge - Pharmacies, surgical supply, big-box, veterinarians offices, farms, nursing and assisted living facilities, etc... Make friends with a Dr and keep a set of kit for them so you can co-opt them to your family. You may also need to come to terms with the fact that some injuries and illnesses that were easily treatable and cured yesterday are now a death sentence for the patient, and possibly the entire party, if you don't cut them loose. Triage will take on a whole new meaning with an entirely new set of standards in the world you are trying to prepare for.